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Old 04-01-2013, 05:33 PM   #3676
FZcruzer
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Sorry, is not a headlight switch as far as I can tell.
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Old 04-01-2013, 05:35 PM   #3677
fasteddie23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FZcruzer View Post
Fasteddie,
The switch you are looking at is a Hi/low switch for his grip heaters, that switch comes with many grip heater kits and is it a headlight switch as far as I can tell.
Thanks Cruzer I know thats what its for I just need to know where to buy one. I have done a bunch of google searches but havent found anything. Any references would be great - even if its too a company that sells a kit with that in it - maybe I can get them to sell me one.

Thanks!
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Old 04-01-2013, 05:52 PM   #3678
MJG2
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Originally Posted by fasteddie23 View Post
I have looked on the Sicass site and don't see anything close to this. Any other suggestions?

highwaydirtbikes.com

https://www.denniskirk.com/universal...hs.p597235.prd
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MJG2 screwed with this post 04-01-2013 at 05:58 PM Reason: add link
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Old 04-01-2013, 05:55 PM   #3679
SoilSampleDave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fasteddie23 View Post
Thanks Cruzer I know thats what its for I just need to know where to buy one. I have done a bunch of google searches but havent found anything. Any references would be great - even if its too a company that sells a kit with that in it - maybe I can get them to sell me one.

Thanks!
Isn't this what you are looking for?
http://www.amazon.com/Symtec-300005-.../dp/B003AU5KPW

If it is, it took me about 30 seconds to google it. My g-fu is strong tonight.

EDIT: 205'd by MJG2!
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Old 04-01-2013, 06:49 PM   #3680
fasteddie23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MJG2 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoilSampleDave View Post
Isn't this what you are looking for?
http://www.amazon.com/Symtec-300005-.../dp/B003AU5KPW

If it is, it took me about 30 seconds to google it. My g-fu is strong tonight.

EDIT: 205'd by MJG2!
Thanks guys the dennis kirk and Amazon pieces were exactly what I was looking for. Didnt see anything close on HDB but I am sure someone will prove me wrong there too!

I must not have had the right terms in the google search. But this is it - thank you!
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Old 04-02-2013, 01:27 AM   #3681
Bungholio
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Location: Aberdeen, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris6_85
I got a question about the highway dirt bike bark busters. When installed is there access to the fork bleeders without removing the guards. My cycras are in the way

Quote:
Originally Posted by avconnect View Post
I have access to mine. You can see my photos elsewhere in this thread. I have tall risers and a submount for a Scotts stabilizer. That probably gives more clearance.
I have access to mine as well-no steering damper or risers.
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Old 04-02-2013, 09:58 AM   #3682
charlie27
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tubeless tires

hi,

on my mountain bikes I have run tubeless tires. They work great. In the past I have converted other mtn bikes to tubeless using Stan's Notubes.

Seems like this would work on our dirt bikes. The process would be to seal the rim with tape as used with Stans. Then add Stans to seal the tire and used for sealing any punctures. This would save weight and eliminate pinch flats.

http://www.notubes.com/

anyone tried this and what results?

thanks
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Old 04-02-2013, 12:46 PM   #3683
Stifdickerson2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charlie27 View Post
hi,

on my mountain bikes I have run tubeless tires. They work great. In the past I have converted other mtn bikes to tubeless using Stan's Notubes.

Seems like this would work on our dirt bikes. The process would be to seal the rim with tape as used with Stans. Then add Stans to seal the tire and used for sealing any punctures. This would save weight and eliminate pinch flats.

http://www.notubes.com/

anyone tried this and what results?

thanks
The issue you are going to have is the rim lock with that kit. for $30.00 more per wheel you could get the tubliss kit http://tubliss.com/ which is made for dirt bikes and works great.
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Old 04-02-2013, 02:41 PM   #3684
charlie27
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I saw tubeliss technology

looks interesting - anyone using it and if so how long and what experience?

thanks
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Old 04-02-2013, 03:10 PM   #3685
DYNOBOB
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Tubliss

General consensus is it's a solid product. I have them in both of my bikes and am pleased. Only thing that was a bit of a shock was the 3-4oz of weight opposite the rimlock it took to balance each wheel. It took a entire 14pc set from Nomar to do both bikes. http://www.nomartirechanger.com/Spok...wt-spoke14.htm No vibes cruising at 70mph.





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Old 04-02-2013, 03:59 PM   #3686
Stifdickerson2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charlie27 View Post
I saw tubeliss technology

looks interesting - anyone using it and if so how long and what experience?

thanks

I have been using it for at least 3-4 years and really like it. The facts sheet on the product explains the benefits and in my opinion holds up to what they claim. I have no bad experiences with the product there is a learning curve to installing the tires but after a couple times you have the hang of it and iit's actually easier than tube type. Just my opinion. Initial purhase is a little pricey at $80.00 to $100.00 per wheel but I have not bought tubes or had a flat in 4+ years(knock on wood) you can run lower tire pressures and not worry about pinch flats, and unlike the bib mousse you can run all day on the road without burning them up. I run Slime or run flat in mine and have had no issues. Use a tire with a good sturdy sidewall (like Motoz Tirez) and when flat they are like riding with 8psi which if you where to get a flat that was not plugable you could still get around pretty well. I let the air out of both frt and rear just to see how it would be and they held on and it was still very rideable. I use the motoz tirez and because of the natural rubber they use in the tires you can actually run higher tire pressure but still get the feel of 2-3 psi lower tire pressure. I really like this combo.
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Old 04-02-2013, 04:05 PM   #3687
Stifdickerson2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DYNOBOB View Post
General consensus is it's a solid product. I have them in both of my bikes and am pleased. Only thing that was a bit of a shock was the 3-4oz of weight opposite the rimlock it took to balance each wheel. It took a entire 14pc set from Nomar to do both bikes. http://www.nomartirechanger.com/Spok...wt-spoke14.htm No vibes cruising at 70mph.





.
i used 3.5 per wheel and its very smooth on the road. 3-1oz weights on the 3 spokes opposite the rim lock and 1-.5oz weight 3rd spoke over opposite the valve. makes it very smooth. with a dual sport bike it does not save you alot of weight but if you run a heavy duty tube and with a heavy duty rim band its probably about the same or a little more. But worth it.
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Old 04-02-2013, 08:49 PM   #3688
bill1960
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Has anyone changed the bars on their 500 ?

I'm looking for less sweep/pullback but not necessarily any higher

The oem bar has 57mm sweep according to Renthal

http://www.renthal.com/File/fit_my_b...&bikedate=2012

Bars with less sweep that I think should fit are the Protaper Contour KTM bend, 47mm sweep

http://www.protaper.com/products/handlebars/contour

or Renthals KTM Hi or Lo bend at ~42mm sweep

http://www.renthal.com/File/product2...del=&bikedate=

Anyone had experience with those bars on the 2012/13 500's ?
I ended up getting the Renthal KTM Lo bend
Renthal's website listed the 500xcw oem bar sweep as 57mm and the Renthal KTM Lo bend as 41mm.
However, thats turned out to be false info in a side by side comparison.
The Renthal ktm lo bend has the same sweep as the OEM neken bars .
So if you're looking for minimum sweep, may as well stick with oem as far as I can tell.
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Old 04-03-2013, 07:14 AM   #3689
ossa
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If de-smog has no ECU impact then why...???

I've read, checked and searched for an answer, sorry if I've missed it...

Actually I'm a 350 EXC owner, but no matter, applies to both the 350 and 500...

I've seen it asserted several times, that de-smogging makes no difference to the
ECU. Makes sense to me as I've read the charcoal canister and the air pump function described. I've also read how the popping is eliminated, flooding of the canister with a dirt nap on the left is eliminated, and ridability is either improved or unaffected with de-smogging. BUT, if desmogging makes no difference to the ECU, WHY DO WE HAVE TO TURN THE IDLE SCREW OUT TO ACHIEVE A STABLE IDLE AFTER DE-SMOGGING?

Also, I've seen asserted that removal of the air pump makes no real emission difference as we're just diluting exhaust with clean air. But isn't the popping actually burning of unburned gasses in the exhaust, making the exhaust slightly cleaner? Just curious on this, but the ECU question seems important to me. Thanks.
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Old 04-03-2013, 10:44 AM   #3690
E-Ticket2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ossa View Post
I've read, checked and searched for an answer, sorry if I've missed it...

Actually I'm a 350 EXC owner, but no matter, applies to both the 350 and 500...

I've seen it asserted several times, that de-smogging makes no difference to the
ECU. Makes sense to me as I've read the charcoal canister and the air pump function described. I've also read how the popping is eliminated, flooding of the canister with a dirt nap on the left is eliminated, and ridability is either improved or unaffected with de-smogging. BUT, if desmogging makes no difference to the ECU, WHY DO WE HAVE TO TURN THE IDLE SCREW OUT TO ACHIEVE A STABLE IDLE AFTER DE-SMOGGING?

Also, I've seen asserted that removal of the air pump makes no real emission difference as we're just diluting exhaust with clean air. But isn't the popping actually burning of unburned gasses in the exhaust, making the exhaust slightly cleaner? Just curious on this, but the ECU question seems important to me. Thanks.
If you do the full de-smog ... then you block off the connector to the the intake manifold (see following pics).
By doing that, you are changing how much air is getting into the intake manifold. That alone would be cause enough for needing to adjust the idle.

E-Ticket
================================

De-Smogifyin' Testin'

In the spirit of being methodical and *sure*, I decided to see if I could disable (without removing) the emissions
equipment and be able to detect a difference that each component had on performance.
First up was the Secondary Air System (SAS).
It's the long, lateral, rubber tube below the charcoal canister that connects to the aluminum canister that bolts on to the head
just above the exhaust port.
Together they inject fresh air into the exhaust port (between the exhaust valve and the header.)
The long rubber tube is connected to a small canister that contains an air filter material.
This helps ensure dust-n-crap aren't sucked through the reed valve.
(In the following picture, the filter canister is located just above the thermal sensor on the head.)


The aluminum canister on the left contains a reed valve that is opened and closed by pressure changes in the exhaust port/pipe.
It sucks in fresh air into a cavity just above the exhaust port and into the exhaust pipe.
This fresh air source helps burn any remaining un-burned fuel left over from the combustion process.
In positive pressure cycles, the reed valve closes and nothing happens.
The whole assembly is a "passive" fresh-air system. That means that it is not powered .... or connected to any
other part of the emissions system. It works solely by the exhaust pressure pulses.


So how to disable the SAS without removing it? Got it! Just plug ... or cap the dang thing. Easy-peesy.


Slap the gas tank back on a go for a short ride. Remember ... I'm only changing one thing at a time.
And EUREKA! NO MORE IRRITATING POPPING ON DE-ACCELERATION!!
Just smooth power up and down. Yes-s-s-s-s-s-sssssss....!
So I stopped and disabled the next item.

There is an electrically-controlled solenoid valve mounted on the bottom of the throttle body.


It connects, via rubber tubing, the charcoal canister and the brass nipple on the intake manifold.


It's primary function, I'm guessing, is to open and close .... and route gas fumes and emissions from the
charcoal canister ... to the intake manifold .... so that they can be burned up with the fuel charge going into the engine.
But I have *no* clue as to "when* or what conditions that the valve is activated.
I simply unplugged the electrical connector to the solenoid valve (shown below), and zip-tied it off to the side.
Note: You use needle-nose pliers and lift up ... and out ... the silver wire retainer. You can then remove the connector.
Started the bike. No real change. Went for a short test ride. No dectable change. Hmmmm.....!!
Best guess is that it is normally closed valve and only opens on command from the ECU.


Cool man. Back to the gee-rage to do a "canisterectomy." :^)

>>>>>


...!"






To install, I put a very thin coat of Honda Bond 4 (non-hardening, flexible, sealant) around the head of the bolt
and the sealing surfaces of the small copper washer. I then *carefully* applied my very small piece of teflon tape
for sealing the threads.

Screwed in the bolt carefully and snugged it down firmly. But don't over do it!
Remember, the threads are aluminum and there aren't that many of them.

As a final step, I cleaned up the excess Honda-Bond sealant and used a Sharpie marker to put on
a "registration mark" on the bolt head and the manifold. Then all I have to do is glance at the bolt head
to see if it is staying tight or backing out.

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