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Old 09-25-2013, 05:08 PM   #4666
garrett
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirty in all View Post
I thought the same exact thing because honestly I beat the snot out of my bike. Always hitting the rev limiter, long highway runs at high speeds, lots of slow technical offroad where the fan runs for long intervals and very much time spent at WOT. With 6500 miles on a 2012 doing oil and filter at 15 hours and checking valves every 30 the only thing Ive done so far is waste my time checking them. They are exactly the same as the first check, havent moved a bit.
Just did mine at 32 hours. Left intake was .09, right was .11. Exhaust valves were .15/.16. I ride mine at a moderate pace, hardly ever hit the limiter. Also had a voltage regulator fry a hole in itself. Runs great though.

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Old 09-25-2013, 06:14 PM   #4667
nzcvlh
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirty in all View Post
I thought the same exact thing because honestly I beat the snot out of my bike. Always hitting the rev limiter, long highway runs at high speeds, lots of slow technical offroad where the fan runs for long intervals and very much time spent at WOT. With 6500 miles on a 2012 doing oil and filter at 15 hours and checking valves every 30 the only thing Ive done so far is waste my time checking them. They are exactly the same as the first check, havent moved a bit.
No I don't race or really beat on it. I just thought I would be better at the top end of the spec since I hear they get tighter as they wear, and loose is therefore better. But I do not care for the ticking and it doesn't start as quick. So I think I will try the .025 increments and get it back to at least nominal instead of operating at either extreme of the spec. Seems to me that the shim spec range and shim selection increments should not be the same. I'll post back once resolved with findings
Thanks
Dave
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Old 09-26-2013, 03:37 AM   #4668
bill1960
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nzcvlh View Post
No I don't race or really beat on it. I just thought I would be better at the top end of the spec since I hear they get tighter as they wear, and loose is therefore better. But I do not care for the ticking and it doesn't start as quick. So I think I will try the .025 increments and get it back to at least nominal instead of operating at either extreme of the spec. Seems to me that the shim spec range and shim selection increments should not be the same. I'll post back once resolved with findings
Thanks
Dave
Pro X sell 10mm OD shims individually. They come in 0.025mm increments

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/...o-X-Valve-Shim
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Old 09-26-2013, 10:17 AM   #4669
Johnnyktm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bengt Phorks View Post
I have 7200 miles on mine and the splines are fine.
keep the splines greased to prevent Fretting.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fretting.
It's what causes that rusty looking powder that you may see on the spline.
Any grease will work.
Thanks a lot for the link! I already knew that it was good to grease the splines, but reading the wikipedia article is a real eye opener
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Old 09-26-2013, 11:03 AM   #4670
Johnnyktm
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Question Question about washers

I have one question: One of these days I'm going to change my motor oil for the 2nd time. I went to my KTM dealer to get some crush washers, and he sold me a different type... last time I was given a copper crush washer (like the ones that I have used my whole life), and the new one seems to be aluminum... here you have a picture of both sides of the different washers:






As you can see, the copper crush washer was installed in the bike, and thus, was "crushed". I'm afraid that the "aluminum" washer would not "crush" and therefore, would be less effective/possible leaks? Perhaps the new type is re-usable? Please let me know, and thank you very much in advance
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Old 09-26-2013, 06:47 PM   #4671
David_Moen
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The crush washers that my BMW dealers sell me for my GS are aluminum....
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Old 09-26-2013, 07:46 PM   #4672
Dirty in all
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Both materials come in many grades or alloy. I'd say in many cases aluminium can be softer. I know as an electrician I'd rather bend a large AL conductor than CU. Try it out, might be a purpose specific grade.
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Old 09-27-2013, 04:50 AM   #4673
Johnnyktm
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Thanks for the speedy response, and I'll give it a try! The guy at the counter could not find the reference for the washers and asked the master technician about them, and it was him who handed the washers to me, so I hope that they work as advertised

Thanks again!
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Old 09-27-2013, 03:45 PM   #4674
Colemanfu
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Put the new business on the bike this week and,ll take it for a rip on Sun. Dirttricks 14/48 sprockets and a Regina chain, Got 150 hrs and 3500 miles out of the first set. I'd expect yo receive more with this setup.
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Old 09-27-2013, 08:04 PM   #4675
GS eh!
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You will be happy

I have 5000 km and 75 hrs on my 14/49 dirt tricks sprockets and they still look new!
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Old 09-28-2013, 07:14 AM   #4676
bill1960
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DDS Clutch Rubber Damper Inspection

Following PDF from Rekluse shows how to inspect the rubber clutch dampers for wear.

http://www.rekluse.com/193-702A%20Re...20Products.pdf

I just changed mine at 285hrs. Will do it more often in future.
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Old 09-28-2013, 07:29 AM   #4677
team ftb
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Excellent find Bill. How much movement "ballpark" was in your rubber dampers at 285 hours?
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Old 09-28-2013, 07:57 AM   #4678
bill1960
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Quote:
Originally Posted by team ftb View Post
Excellent find Bill. How much movement "ballpark" was in your rubber dampers at 285 hours?
Justin, using the pic from Rekluse's pdf...


I had rotational movement of ~2mm, measured at the circumference of the Inner Hub.


New Damper (top) compared to old 285hr damper (bottom)

bill1960 screwed with this post 09-28-2013 at 08:03 AM
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Old 09-29-2013, 10:54 AM   #4679
Johnnyktm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ecarnell View Post
Trying to straighten out my shifter - can someone please post a pic looking downwards so I could possibly see distances / angle of the stock bend?
Thanks!!!
I have read your request a little late, but just in case that it can help you or others, I have taken some pics







I purchased the bike used, so I'm not sure if this is how the new bikes come from the factory, but this distance looks pretty decent
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Old 09-29-2013, 10:55 AM   #4680
Johnnyktm
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One question for 2014's owners: Do you think that the new halogen headlight performs adequately? We all know that the 12/13 one leaves a lot to be desired...
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