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Old 09-29-2013, 11:11 AM   #4681
BillUA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FreeSoloNH View Post
thanks for the feedback. the dealer i bought my bike from wouldn't touch my bike with either EU or xcw map claiming liability issues. so i bought the JD tuner with high hopes only to have another dealer 100+ miles from me say he would load the xcw map for $20. ill make the trip if its worth it and keep the recommended JD settings? until i strap a new exhaust to it at least? everyone talks about unleashing its true power after de-smog and JD tuner. the popping definitely became noticeably less but still prevalent and flame out actually became worse but power-wise i cant say i noticed a huge difference, its always been a trench cutting machine trying to toss me off best it could.

Did you ever get this figured out?

I had the Magic Mod from Best Dual sport bikes done to mine and it runs awesome with no flameouts or decel popping...
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Old 09-29-2013, 12:56 PM   #4682
irongrady
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2012 ktm 500 exc?

The 14 headlights are waaaay better than the ones on my 13. The 13 was barely usable at night without having the high beams on. The spread and brightness of the 14 is much better. I don't see the need to look for an upgrade yet. Nightime trail riding may be a different story though.

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Old 09-29-2013, 02:56 PM   #4683
StepOnIt
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That's lots

Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnnyktm View Post
I have read your request a little late, but just in case that it can help you or others, I have taken some pics







I purchased the bike used, so I'm not sure if this is how the new bikes come from the factory, but this distance looks pretty decent
Mine is even closer, too close I think. That looks about right though.
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Old 09-29-2013, 03:48 PM   #4684
Vico1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillUA View Post
Did you ever get this figured out?

I had the Magic Mod from Best Dual sport bikes done to mine and it runs awesome with no flameouts or decel popping...
I had problems until I changed my TPS setting... awesome now and very easy to do.

At least check it with voltmeter to see. I set mine at .62 volts.
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Old 09-29-2013, 03:48 PM   #4685
ecarnell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnnyktm View Post
I have read your request a little late, but just in case that it can help you or others, I have taken some pics







I purchased the bike used, so I'm not sure if this is how the new bikes come from the factory, but this distance looks pretty decent
Thanks for the pics!!!!

Wow. Looks like my attempt at a rebend and jb welding the tip was more than a little off!:
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Old 09-29-2013, 07:56 PM   #4686
team ftb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bill1960 View Post
Justin, using the pic from Rekluse's pdf...


I had rotational movement of ~2mm, measured at the circumference of the Inner Hub.


New Damper (top) compared to old 285hr damper (bottom)

Thanks for the beta. Even without measuring the dampers seem to have transformed a bit during the 280 hours.

When was the last time you had the front sprocket off for a look at the drive shaft? Did you notice any deformation of the shaft spines at all?
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Old 09-30-2013, 03:12 AM   #4687
bill1960
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Quote:
Originally Posted by team ftb View Post
Thanks for the beta. Even without measuring the dampers seem to have transformed a bit during the 280 hours.

When was the last time you had the front sprocket off for a look at the drive shaft? Did you notice any deformation of the shaft spines at all?
Just changed the sprockets and chain last week. Splines on the shaft still ok.
...but I got 285hrs out of my dampers and Rekluse reckon 20hrs so I guess I'm not riding it that hard 555.

I was putting regular grease on the splines which didn't last long. Recently switched to bearing retainer to provide a cushion .

Btw, vibration increases with damper wear. Noticeable reduction in vibes with the new damper rubbers installed.
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Old 09-30-2013, 04:22 AM   #4688
StepOnIt
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Volts

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vico1 View Post
I had problems until I changed my TPS setting... awesome now and very easy to do.

At least check it with voltmeter to see. I set mine at .62 volts.
Just how do you do that lol. I have a volt meter but where do u check that? Can you pm me with details
Thanks
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Old 09-30-2013, 04:37 AM   #4689
Vico1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StepOnIt View Post
Just how do you do that lol. I have a volt meter but where do u check that? Can you pm me with details
Thanks
There are post on here with pictures and more info. I don't know where they are but not too far back.

Option 1
Basically you just pull back to boot cover and loosen screw with torq screwdriver and them move the head counter clockwise just a hair. doesn take much. This will increase richness. Tight it down and ride it.

Option 2
They make an electrical pig tail and plugs into you tps sockets and give you a wire for each and you can check electrical with good digital volt meter. Ignition turn on.

Don't have time now for more details but look in this thread for better info.

It really made a difference and my runs much better than ever.
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A few others in the past

You dont quit riding when you get old, you get old when you quit riding.
I don't always ride street bikes, but when I do I prefer VStroms
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Old 09-30-2013, 07:09 AM   #4690
team ftb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vico1 View Post
There are post on here with pictures and more info. I don't know where they are but not too far back.

Option 1
Basically you just pull back to boot cover and loosen screw with torq screwdriver and them move the head counter clockwise just a hair. doesn take much. This will increase richness. Tight it down and ride it.

Option 2
They make an electrical pig tail and plugs into you tps sockets and give you a wire for each and you can check electrical with good digital volt meter. Ignition turn on.

Don't have time now for more details but look in this thread for better info.

It really made a difference and my runs much better than ever.

Adjusting the TPS does not necessarily "increase the richness". The TPS does just what its name implies; it provides input to the engine management computer regarding the position of the throttle. How the computer processes that data depends on other prevailing conditions: engine speed, load, vehicle speed, engine and ambient temperatures, and so on. This information from the TPS is especially critical for proper startup and idle, as well as smooth throttle response.

In Vico1's option 2 this the pigtail that is inserted into the TPS connector. It is a Suzuki part and the part number is displayed in the second pic.









My TPS measured .590 from the factory and I changed it to .603 and noticed an definite improvement in throttle response. I may increase the voltage a bit more once the rains subside and the slick clay becomes less of an issue to see if it increases the response even more.
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team ftb screwed with this post 09-30-2013 at 07:16 AM
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Old 09-30-2013, 07:29 AM   #4691
The Wolf
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I plan on installing the samco hose kit and ditching the thermostat very soon. i just wanted to clarify, what is needed electronically to delete the thermostat? plug Eliminator? Will the ecu throw a code if the thermo isnt in place?

Thanks fellas
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Old 09-30-2013, 08:07 AM   #4692
SoilSampleDave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by team ftb View Post
Adjusting the TPS does not necessarily "increase the richness". The TPS does just what its name implies; it provides input to the engine management computer regarding the position of the throttle. How the computer processes that data depends on other prevailing conditions: engine speed, load, vehicle speed, engine and ambient temperatures, and so on. This information from the TPS is especially critical for proper startup and idle, as well as smooth throttle response.

In Vico1's option 2 this the pigtail that is inserted into the TPS connector. It is a Suzuki part and the part number is displayed in the second pic.










My TPS measured .590 from the factory and I changed it to .603 and noticed an definite improvement in throttle response. I may increase the voltage a bit more once the rains subside and the slick clay becomes less of an issue to see if it increases the response even more.
The Suzuki test plug is the best $40 or so you will ever spend! Mine was at .590-ish from the factory. I set it to .608 and it seemed a little better. I just changed it to .638 and it definitely feels snappier. In fact, I think it is now worth investing in the mapping switch for use in slick conditions.
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Old 09-30-2013, 08:14 AM   #4693
Johnnyktm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irongrady View Post
The 14 headlights are waaaay better than the ones on my 13. The 13 was barely usable at night without having the high beams on. The spread and brightness of the 14 is much better. I don't see the need to look for an upgrade yet. Nightime trail riding may be a different story though.
Thanks for the info! It's nice to know that the thing has improved

Quote:
Originally Posted by StepOnIt View Post
Mine is even closer, too close I think. That looks about right though.
Thank you for the info! It's the first bike that I purchase used, and it seems that the first owner did not crash hard enough, enough times!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ecarnell View Post
Thanks for the pics!!!! Wow. Looks like my attempt at a rebend and jb welding the tip was more than a little off!:
You're welcome! And I wish I could rebend the tip as well as you did, in case that I would need it (knock on wood )
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Old 09-30-2013, 08:18 AM   #4694
SoilSampleDave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnnyktm View Post
Thanks for the info! It's nice to know that the thing has improved



Thank you for the info! It's the first bike that I purchase used, and it seems that the first owner did not crash hard enough, enough times!



You're welcome! And I wish I could rebend the tip as well as you did, in case that I would need it (knock on wood )
Speaking of headlights, check this out from our 70 degree Berg friends:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...postcount=4295
Think I'm going to try one.
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Old 09-30-2013, 08:25 AM   #4695
SteveO
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Electrical Wiring upgrade

For those that like to have options for Dual Sport use, I've created a Schematic that shows the upgrades I've done on my bike. I've successfully tested this setup on the latest RMAR Quien Sabe 600 ride. The lights performed flawlessly.


Notes:
The TrailTech Computer has a VERY bright display when it is plugged into the 12v system. This is way too bright when driving at night. So, I integrated a switch so I could disconnect the 12V power supply, and disable the bright display at night.

The LED Lights are controlled using the stock combination switch on the left handle bar. This is easier to use when riding on the road and switching between hi and lo with oncoming traffic. As well, it provides cleaner power to the LED lights via the relays.












The guys in the front are using the exhaust to warm their hands....... very cold....
This was taken this past Friday close to Chama, somewhere up in the mountains.....

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