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Old 05-02-2011, 05:56 PM   #16
Bokrijder
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I'd follow up with a clutch disk inspection without a doubt - those fibers are very suspicious. Hate to crash the party, but don't I see an area of oil tracking at 6:00 o-clock under and behind the flywheel on the rear main side? There may be multiple leaks.

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Old 05-02-2011, 07:54 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bokrijder View Post
I'd follow up with a clutch disk inspection without a doubt - those fibers are very suspicious. Hate to crash the party, but don't I see an area of oil tracking at 6:00 o-clock under and behind the flywheel on the rear main side? There may be multiple leaks.

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Good observation. When I look in behind the flywheel with a flashlight I can see some "soot" in a few places and a bit of accumulation at the seam between the two engine case halves. This soot is dry. Very low down on the rear main side is a bit of moisture (oil) but this appears to be coming from the bottom of the bell housing and wicking up the existing soot, or clutch dust.
Yeah, it's not ruled out that there are a few leaks. Need more investigation
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Old 05-03-2011, 03:31 AM   #18
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Grant,

Going to do the work yourself? This is a job which looks much more difficult than it really is. There is a very definite sequence of disassembly and a couple of important factors on reassembly, but if followed, no headaches.
If money is tight and the actuator cylinder looks good, I would let it go. I find them easy to change.
One suggestion regarding the cylinder cavity. You can drill a small drain hole, 1/8" or so, at 6:00 allowing any future leakage to drain (and show itself) rather than the oil filling the cavity and following the pushrod forward into the clutch.

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Old 05-03-2011, 08:35 AM   #19
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Steptoe is right, it doesn't take a special tool to remove the seal.

But be VERY careful not to scratch the shaft.

You might measure the installation depth of the old seal before removal if you are not going to use the BMW installation tool.

You can make your own installation tool from plastic pipe or the like. You don't absolutely need an installation tool, but it helps make sure the seal is square to the shaft and is at the right depth.

Rear main seals aren't a super-high failure rate item, but they do fail. If it were mine, I'd replace those too, and the clutch parts. I would probably replace the slave cylinder as well.

It's not an extremely hard job, but there is a fair bit of work. It is disappointing if you do all the work and need to repeat it soon after. DAMHIK.

Good luck and have fun!
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Old 05-03-2011, 12:50 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by g r a n t View Post
Good observation. When I look in behind the flywheel with a flashlight I can see some "soot" in a few places and a bit of accumulation at the seam between the two engine case halves. This soot is dry. Very low down on the rear main side is a bit of moisture (oil) but this appears to be coming from the bottom of the bell housing and wicking up the existing soot, or clutch dust.
Yeah, it's not ruled out that there are a few leaks. Need more investigation
What's the point of fannying around looking through tiny apertures with a flash light when you have to remove the box anyway.....

Pull the box off and all will be revealed.
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Old 05-03-2011, 01:22 PM   #21
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As soon as I gather my tools, supplies, make some guide pins, finish reading the manuals and advice from the masses here that a$$end of the bike is coming off . Probably in two more nights. I will update as soon as I get there. G.
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Old 05-03-2011, 01:30 PM   #22
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And, as always, thanks!
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Old 05-12-2011, 09:47 AM   #23
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Disassembly Updates

Hi.
I have gone through many of the posts on this and related topics. I have also reviewed the HOW article(s). I have been documenting my progress on the break-down of the GS in search of the leaks.

I will post pics and descriptions of the progress in hopes they help others on this site.

See below

Grant
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Old 05-12-2011, 11:31 AM   #24
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Disassembly part 1

Notes from Input Shaft Seal replacement BMW R1150GS
1. General Notes:
a. I am not a trained mechanic, but have some skills. I am only putting forth the information I have collected and learned.
b. I have followed my Clymer, BMW Service Manual and the wondering insights of many Inmates on ADVrider. Hopefully this will paint a good picture of the process.
c. When removing fasteners I will usually loosely re-install the fasteners into their original location so I do not lose them and know which fastener goes where.
d. Fasteners are always cleaned before reinstalling.
e. Make a note if a thread locker or anti-seize is used on the bolts.
f. Keep a large selection of zip-ties on hand to temporarily secure wiring and parts. I try to use white or other colours for items being temporarily held so they are easier to identify later.
g. The have recorded the order in which I performed the disassembly. It is not always the same as the Clymer or the BMW Service manual.
2. Strapped front wheel to bench
3. Strapped front wheel to centre stand to keep stand from releasing accidentally.
4. Remove gas tank
a. Quick disconnects from Beemerboneyard one of best investments
b. Open ends of disconnects covered with plastic to prevent contaminants entering openings.
c. Disconnect power/communication connector
d. Disconnect lines to charcoal canister. As the lines are similar in size and material I applied a small dot of white paint to ensure I match up the right lines in the future.
i. Observation: when I disconnected one of the lines to the canister several milliliters of water dribbled out of the line. Is this to be expected? Is this condensation? Where the lines installed in reverse and thus causing this water build-up?
5. Battery
a. Disconnect power from battery
b. Remove previous coating of dielectric grease.
c. Clean fasteners and terminals.
d. Loosely re-install fasteners only (not the wiring) to the terminals so fasteners are not misplaced.
6. Remove skid plates and lower crashbar.
a. Skid plate missing flush fastener at bottom.


7. Remove muffler. Two brothers aftermarket low exhaust. Why is this so much lighter than my OEM muffler?

8. Remove the catalytic converter
a. 2 @ 5mm hex bolts connect the catalytic converter to frame
b. Catalytic converter attached to header pipes with clamps. Removed clamps.
c. Temporarily tied the cat to the footrest. See photo. Later I tied it to the header so I could remove the footrest.
i. O2 sensor would not release from threads in the cat. Cat relocated to the side of the bike and secured to frame with a ziptie.


9. Starter removed
a. Observed bottom of clutch housing area covered with a black soot-like substance. Soot was also oily. Greater concentration on the transmission side and not the engine side.
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Old 05-12-2011, 11:44 AM   #25
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Disassembly Part 2

10. Noticed shifter lever is loose on the splined connection.
a. Shifter arm removed
b. Noted blue loctite on bolt from arm to mounting at footrest.
c. Need to clean and grease connections/moving surfaces.
d. Need new “foam” bushings.
11. Disconnected Throttle Bodies
a. It was difficult to slide the flexible tubes back into the air box. I could only get one at a time to be recessed.
b. Inspected the inner chamber of the TBs. A bit of carbon on the LHS.
c. I stuff an old sock (clean) into the intake port to keep foreign material out. Also bagged the TBs to keep them clean.
d. Ordered new O-rings.









12. Air Filter
a. Disconnect sensors from air filter housing lid.
b. Air filter housing lid tipped forward and secured with ziptie.
c. Filter has 10,000 miles on it. Seems clean but a new one is going back in.
13. Fluids
a. Note: I decided to drain the fluids after working on the bike. So, the fluids are drained cold. Once all is buttoned up I will do a fill, get the bike to operating temperature and then do a proper fluid change.

b. Final Drive fluid drained.
i. Red. Inspected fluids. Noted a small sliver of metal. Looked more like a shaving from the crush washer or possibly a thread. Not concerned.
ii. Small amount of black paste on magnetic plug. Normal.
iii. Applied painters tape to the opening for the ABS sensor to prevent foreign material from entering.






c. Transmission fluid drained
i. Red colour. No metal apparent.
d. Engine oil not drained at this point.


14. Unclipped brake-light switch at connector near RHS of fusebox.



15. Unclipped ABS sensor cable at connector near RHS of fuse box. See pic for item 14. They are adjacent.
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Old 05-12-2011, 11:56 AM   #26
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Disassembly Part 3

17. Removed RHS footrest assembly.
a. Note: top bolt had a small amount of red loctite at the tip.


18. Removed allen screw holding Master Cylinder junction to rear frame.
a. Note: blue loctite on threads
b. Zip-tied everything together to keep the cables from flopping around.


19. Removed LHS footrest assembly
a. Note: Did not notice red loctite on threads but did see a small amount of rust on the very tip of the bolt


20. Loosened LHS and RHS bolts securing the rear frame to the main frame. These are at the front of the rear frame.


21. Loosened the “through-bolt” at the front of the rear frame.

Picture for 20 and 21:


22. Drained Clutch Fluid
a. Removed BMW grub screw. Forgot about the red loctite and did not heat the grub screw. Threads seem fine. I cleaned the Loctite off of both threads.
b. I had pre-ordered the BMW bleeder screw. I noticed it did not fully seat in the clutch line housing. As such I could still hear some air escaping through the bleeder screw. Will have to re-install the grub screw.
BMW check valve piece. Grub screw inserts into left end.



23. Was having trouble getting the rear frame to raise. I had loosened all bolts, cut cable ties, moved apparatus aside and could still not figure out why the frame would not lift. Finally I had a Eureka moment when it dawned on my that a rigid object cannot rotate about 2 points simultaneously. So, I went to the front of the frame and removed the mounting bolts and left the “through bolt” in place. The frame lifted no problem. Live and learn.

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Old 05-12-2011, 11:57 AM   #27
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Old 05-12-2011, 12:01 PM   #28
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Disassembly Part 4

24. Got ready to remove the Clutch Slave
a. Marked the bleeder hose location with “White-out” so I could remember the angle and orientation.
b. Note, bleeder line goes over support bar
c. I noted some fluid marks in the area of the clutch slave. Hmmmmmm.
d. Pulled the clutch slave….Yummmm.
e. Ordered new slave immediately from Beemerboneyard.
f. Called it a night.








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Old 05-12-2011, 12:11 PM   #29
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Disassembly Part 5 miscellaneous

Hi,
These are sidebar comments and photos to this process. Comment if you can.

I supported the brake lines while being unmounted from the frame. I was not happy with the slight kink in the brake lines when them were hanging unsupported.




Help..I noticed this breather line to be un-connected. It looks like a battery breather line but my battery is a sealed OEM battery. Could this just be left over or is it for the ABS?



View up the !!!!



Overall view:



Work great for making temporary registration marks. Thanks for the tip Jeff:



Have I mentioned this already?
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Old 05-12-2011, 01:02 PM   #30
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I'd bet a lot of money that the hose is a left over from the battery. There's nothing like that for the ABS.

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