2000 R1150GS - looking for the leak. Chime in all experts!

[Poolside]

Super report! This one will go in the HOW (Hall of Wisdom) without a doubt. Thank you for taking the time!

+1 on the battery vent hose. I was going to say a left over hose from the Fuel Vapor Recovery system, but I see it's still in place.

[BobLoblaw]

Excellent report

Your brake lines look like the original stock rubber items. You should consider replacing them since you are now in work mode. The inner linings have been known to flake off and screw up your abs

[Bokrijder]

On the path to recovery !!!!!!!
Before pulling the transmission get some long bolts (6" or so) matching the transmission to engine bolts in diameter, 6MM I think. Hacksaw the heads off.
Remove an attachment bolt and screw one of these bolts in its place. Really don't need to do all of the bolts, three or four spaced around flange will suffice.

These will help guide the transmission straight back until the input shaft disengages from the clutch disc spline.

Same on assembly, it's important to slide straight into the spline and fix a couple of top bolts - don't let the tail of the transmission drop once the splines are engaged

Bokrijder

[g r a n t]

Originally Posted by BobLoblaw

Excellent report

Your brake lines look like the original stock rubber items. You should consider replacing them since you are now in work mode. The inner linings have been known to flake off and screw up your abs

D@mn you BobLoblaw! I knew I wouldn't get away with an "easy" input shaft seal replacement!

Hmmmmmmmm. OEM lines or aftermarket? I understand braided lines are a no-no with the early BMW ABS. Anyone?

[g r a n t]

Originally Posted by Bokrijder

On the path to recovery !!!!!!!
Before pulling the transmission get some long bolts (6" or so) matching the transmission to engine bolts in diameter, 6MM I think. Hacksaw the heads off.
Remove an attachment bolt and screw one of these bolts in its place. Really don't need to do all of the bolts, three or four spaced around flange will suffice.

These will help guide the transmission straight back until the input shaft disengages from the clutch disc spline.

Same on assembly, it's important to slide straight into the spline and fix a couple of top bolts - don't let the tail of the transmission drop once the splines are engaged

Bokrijder

Thanks. I started by running around and buying some M8x60 and M8x70 bolts with the intention to make my own tools. However, I ultimately ponied up and ordered the BMW guide pins (The call them Guide Thorn Set). Interestingly enough they are different lengths. I experimented with which ones go on which side.
They're nice pieces of metal. Stainless. G

[mike54]

Originally Posted by g r a n t

D@mn you BobLoblaw! I knew I wouldn't get away with an "easy" input shaft seal replacement!

Hmmmmmmmm. OEM lines or aftermarket? I understand braided lines are a no-no with the early BMW ABS. Anyone?

Where'd you hear that? I've got braided lines on my 2000 GS and they're fine. I bought the fittings and made them up myself. I've done that for lots of bikes and cars I've had and never had a failure. I've had the current lines on my bike since 04. I understand that not every one will want to make up their own lines so galfer or spiegler are your choices. It's a good mod and they feel great!

I'd like to hear the reasoning behind not using braided lines on early ABS bikes.

[Grok]

Originally Posted by g r a n t

D@mn you BobLoblaw! I knew I wouldn't get away with an "easy" input shaft seal replacement!

Hmmmmmmmm. OEM lines or aftermarket? I understand braided lines are a no-no with the early BMW ABS. Anyone?

The braided lines with the teflon tubes inside are less compliant. They won't prevent the ABS from working, but the pressure modulation during wheel lockup will be a bit more abrupt. Does this have an effect on braking distance or effectiveness? I don't know.

In '02 the 1150GS had rubber lines and the Adventure had braided, with the same ABS modulator part number. I will put braided lines on my ABS 1100 soon without concern.

[g r a n t]

Originally Posted by mike54

Where'd you hear that? I've got braided lines on my 2000 GS and they're fine. I bought the fittings and made them up myself. I've done that for lots of bikes and cars I've had and never had a failure. I've had the current lines on my bike since 04. I understand that not every one will want to make up their own lines so galfer or spiegler are your choices. It's a good mod and they feel great!

I'd like to hear the reasoning behind not using braided lines on early ABS bikes.

Hi.
My original note was me going on memory from reading about the ABS unit having difficulties with with the braided lines. Grok's note above is similar to my memory. I think I read it here or on BMWMOA forum.
This thread goes back and forth on the issue and references a tech report.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...=braided+lines

I can't find the original thread that inspired my comment.
It would be nice to go stainless braided lines. I have put Spieglers on all of my old airheads. Nice!

[mike54]

Originally Posted by g r a n t

Hi.
My original note was me going on memory from reading about the ABS unit having difficulties with with the braided lines. Grok's note above is similar to my memory. I think I read it here or on BMWMOA forum.
This thread goes back and forth on the issue and references a tech report.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...=braided+lines

I can't find the original thread that inspired my comment.
It would be nice to go stainless braided lines. I have put Spieglers on all of my old airheads. Nice!

One comment in that thread about a dealer saying there's is some kind of tech bulletin. Sounds like some one spreading FUD to me. I'd never heard the controversy before. Thanks for the link.

If you have spieglers on your air heads then you know the advantage. I wouldn't have a bike without the braided lines myself. Unless is was mechanical brakes like some of my early bikes.

Let me also chime in and say good thread here. It gives people confidence to do their own work when they can see photos like these. Good job.

[BobLoblaw]

Originally Posted by g r a n t

Hi.
My original note was me going on memory from reading about the ABS unit having difficulties with with the braided lines. Grok's note above is similar to my memory. I think I read it here or on BMWMOA forum.
This thread goes back and forth on the issue and references a tech report.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...=braided+lines

I can't find the original thread that inspired my comment.
It would be nice to go stainless braided lines. I have put Spieglers on all of my old airheads. Nice!

I put Spiegler's on my 01GS last year. Fairly expensive but they go on with minimal headache especially since you now have the tank out of the way

[g r a n t]

Originally Posted by BobLoblaw

Iespecially since you now have the tank out of the way

I think I have everything out of the way now.

[g r a n t]

25. Remove Battery / ABS holder

a. I have heard this is a ridiculous PITA. Here is one more vote in agreement. Again referencing the documents at the beginning of the thread (Clymer/Service Manual) I removed the Motronic unit. This was no big deal. I was worried as this is akin to brain surgery but everything popped out.
b. This allowed me to unbolt the ABS unit.
c. I was able to lift up the ABS unit just enough to get a small ratchet under to loosen the bolts. I decided to only loosen the bolts to raise the battery holder enough to get the wiring harness over the mount (more later). I also did not want to try to fish around and reattach the nuts in a near impossible work space (under the ABS unit).
d. The only bonus was I was able to get the d@mn gear position sensor out from the tangle of wires, also known as the wiring harness, proud of the Motronic.

Removing the brain. Brains, more brains......


Arrows point to Motronic connector and the void where the brains were:


Arrows show the path of the gear position indicator that it followed to get out from under the battery box and frame:


26. Removing the Gearbox / Driveshaft / FD

a. Note, I have decided to remove the gearbox/driveshaft/FD as one unit. I do not want to service the swingarm bearings at this point. I feel no notchiness and cannot detect play so I will that alone for now. I do see some residue around the pivot bearings connections. This could just be road grime. Optimist???
b. I grabbed a piece of cardboard and sketched the location of the transmission mounting bolts (thanks JVB!)
c. Per the Clymer/Manual I started to remove the bolts in order.
d. I also ponied up for the BMW guide pins. No justification. Just did. Note: they came from BMW as a sealed set. They were different lengths. I tested to see which one went where to ensure they had equal amounts exposed. (Anyone know if the different lengths is normal?)

27. I also had to remove the fuel equalizer/crossover by disconnecting from the throttle bodies.

28. Why, why, why is this cable routed on the rear side of the battery box mounting post? Ridiculous.

[g r a n t]

Originally Posted by mike54

:

Let me also chime in and say good thread here. It gives people confidence to do their own work when they can see photos like these. Good job.

If I can do it.....

[Poolside]

Originally Posted by mike54

One comment in that thread about a dealer saying there's is some kind of tech bulletin. Sounds like some one spreading FUD to me.

+1 on the Fear Uncertainty Doubt quotient.

The Adventure model had steel braided lines from the factory.

[Poolside]

Originally Posted by g r a n t

BMW check valve piece. Grub screw inserts into left end.

Unbelievable how many items have red Loctite from the factory.