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Old 08-09-2011, 03:29 PM   #121
g r a n t OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by exwingnut View Post
Very nice wrench report Grant.

I have a related question, how do you get that fat bastard (the GS) up and down that skinny little ramp?

I have a ramp and a GS, both very nearly identical to yours, and putting the bike up on the ramp and (horror of horrors) getting it back down without having it land upside down on top of me has been the cause of some serious thought...and a few bent parts.

Well done!
getting up was easy...
started the engine and let out the clutch and walked it up the ramp.
the ramp was greasy so had a bit of a fishtail at the rearend but it went up nicely.
got it up on the level part and centred it. had a stepstool nearby to get up higher to get it up on the sidestand.
i'm fairly tall so that helps too.
i was home alone at this point so i got it up by myself.

getting it down off the ramp i asked my wife to come in and help.
sure i could be all manly and attempt it myself but i thought best to have 4 hands on it.
no problem.

good luck next time!
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Old 08-09-2011, 03:31 PM   #122
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driving up the ramp

p.s. before "driving" the GS up the ramp, do a youtube search for "loading motorcycle into pickup" or similar.
good for a few laughs and an example of what not to do.
g
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Old 08-09-2011, 04:34 PM   #123
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Then, with the clutch all the way out and a touch of throttle the whole back end went from a slight chatter to a full shaking, and bucking. In other words it did not sound nice.
All of that is normal. Have you ever heard the cam chains slapping to beat the band, especially at low RPM? That is due to normal crankshaft acceleration and deceleration that happens during each crank rotation. You can visualize that I'm sure, the crank slows down during the compression stroke, and speeds up during the power stroke. Well just imagine all the big and little parts on an unloaded drive line trying to follow along with those speed variations.

There's a whole lot more complexity in the "shaking and bucking" if you consider the driveline components operate sort of like a slinky dog. A slinky dog made up of of tiny little clearances between a few low-rotational-inertia parts. And a big-rotational-inertia part, the rear wheel and tire, tacked onto the back end. Ever pull a slinky dog and seen how it caterpillars along?


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Old 08-09-2011, 05:16 PM   #124
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if you consider the driveline components

Getting it. Last night I was thinking it over and thought about the "cush drive" part of the input shaft and that there is room for movement. That room for movement, plus the other "slinky" components you mention would have the looseness to shake around if the driveline was unloaded i.e. not having the effect of pavement resistance.
Getting it.
For me, I had the nervousness of starting it up expecting a BIG BANG and smoke as this was my first time on the clutch repair job. Also, I had not run the bike on the stand as mentioned. Put those together along with it sounding like a bucket of bolts and voila! Instant GS worry beads and panic.
When I am back on Thursday I will test it at speed and make sure there is no weird vibration.

As always, thanks.

G
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Old 08-09-2011, 05:38 PM   #125
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Originally Posted by g r a n t View Post

Getting it. Last night I was thinking it over and thought about the "cush drive" part of the input shaft and that there is room for movement. That room for movement, plus the other "slinky" components you mention would have the looseness to shake around if the driveline was unloaded i.e. not having the effect of pavement resistance.
Getting it.
For me, I had the nervousness of starting it up expecting a BIG BANG and smoke as this was my first time on the clutch repair job. Also, I had not run the bike on the stand as mentioned. Put those together along with it sounding like a bucket of bolts and voila! Instant GS worry beads and panic.

As always, thanks.
Sure, but what are you talking about, you did all the work! I get that about the initial worry when trying something out that you just finished putting together. I usually wince a little when pushing the starter button or connecting a wire.

Yea you got it right. The cush drive is the spring, and the clearances between components are the spaces between the turns of the spring. And to complete the slinky dog analogy, the crankshaft is the front of the dog, and the rear wheel and tire is the tail end.


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Old 08-09-2011, 06:55 PM   #126
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Originally Posted by g r a n t View Post
p.s. before "driving" the GS up the ramp, do a youtube search for "loading motorcycle into pickup" or similar.
good for a few laughs and an example of what not to do.
g


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Old 08-10-2011, 07:23 PM   #127
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Thanks.
OK, had a moment to look up some examples of what I meant:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6bSHKUeotNU

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O3jVd...eature=related
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Old 09-03-2011, 11:42 AM   #128
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C'mon!

So, I got the GS back together. Been riding for about a week. Had to get the Twinmax out and do a TB balance.
All seemed great until I noticed the left side of my tank was deformed. Turns out the charcoal canister must be plugged. When I originally started this job I noticed water pour out of the tube that runs from the junction to the canister.
So, I am guessing the canister is water-logged.
I just can't see how this would happen.
I guess it could happen if the lines were crossed and water got into the gascap area.

Remedy: I ordered a used canister and it should be here in about a week. In the meantime I am debating taking the whole vapour recovery system off. I'm all for the environment but I could be riding a week earlier and not have to worry about this happening again. Will post the final solution soon.
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Old 09-03-2011, 12:27 PM   #129
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That (the tank gets sucked in) usually happens when the 2 vent hoses from the tank that go to the charcoal canister get swapped. Try reversing them and see if the vacuum problem goes away.

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Old 09-03-2011, 12:44 PM   #130
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THANKS JJ.
I thought of that. When I reinstalled the tank I am 100% sure I followed the diagram in this link:
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=721364
as directed.
Ofcourse, I am now only 99% sure I followed it correctly, the doubt is creeping in.

I did disconnect the vent and drain lines at the junction. I then blew into each hose. When I blew into the hose that connects the tank and canister I could hear the air coming from the neck filler area. When I blew into the drain hose I could hear the air coming from the little drain hole located at about 9 o'clock just outside of the fuel filler neck. I could cover the hole and stop the air. So, I am quite certain I have the hoses right (I have been wrong though).

Also, I had connected the vent line from the tank to the drain line, I would still get air to the tank wouldn't I?

I have to pull the tank later today anyhow. Will check it out.
I'm not too excited to take off the emissions gear but may just do it tonight. I can always reverse it when I get the canister next week.
g
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Old 09-03-2011, 03:27 PM   #131
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If the quick disconnects are still in place at the rear of the tank it makes it easy to swap the hoses without having to fuss with the tank. You will have to pull the seat however.

JJ
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Old 09-03-2011, 06:01 PM   #132
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Originally Posted by g r a n t View Post

When I blew into the hose that connects the tank and canister I could hear the air coming from the neck filler area.

When I blew into the drain hose I could hear the air coming from the little drain hole located at about 9 o'clock just outside of the fuel filler neck. I could cover the hole and stop the air.

Also, [if] I had [swapped] the vent line from the tank to the drain line, I would still get [vent] air to the tank wouldn't I?
That's a yes.

The emissions control plumbing contains a solenoid air valve which is controlled by the ECU. I'm fairly sure that the valve is connected into the hose leading from the charcoal canister to the throttle body hose barb(s). The throttle body is a low pressure source with draws air through the charcoal and brings the collected fuel vapors into the motor intake.

Regardless at which point in the system the solenoid air valve it connected, its purpose is to seal off the evap system from the outside air, except when the motor intake is producing sufficient low pressure and high enough flow rate. The ECU knows when those conditions are true and opens the evap air valve. If I remember, the air valve isn't open merely when the ignition key is switched on, or when the motor is idling.

So what am I saying? If the solenoid air valve is plugged, or it has failed electrically or mechanically, or perhaps the ECU control output has failed, then it's just as good as having the fuel tank vent line blocked. You can test the valve with 12 volts and ground, it is polarity insensitive.


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Old 09-03-2011, 08:23 PM   #133
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Poolside, thanks for the write-up AND the proper editorial brackets [ ] instead of the often mis-used parentheses ( ).

I really should take more time and re-read my posts prior to submitting.

Cheers,

G
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Old 09-03-2011, 09:47 PM   #134
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Oh I don't know about that. When all is said and done, you're doing the heavy lifting on your end.


Note: Something else I'm trying to remember about the solenoid valve ECU control signal. It might be that the valve is supplied 12 volts continuously when the motor is running, and the ECU switches ground (aka: low side switching) to open the valve.

This is just some info in case you try and test the wires to the air valve. If the valve is supplied 12 volts when the motor is running, then a test for voltage may appear as though the control signal is working. Instead test the valve control signal by disconnecting the valve and connecting a meter across the bike-side connector leads. Set the meter as if to measure 12VDC. Start the bike and rev the motor a couple of times. When the valve control signal is 'active', the meter will read 12V, or -12V if the leads are hooked the other way round, which doesn't make any difference really.



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