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Old 11-14-2011, 10:08 PM   #106
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OK, the question was never what, the only question was where. I had already been on the Kenai for a while and wanted some mountains to change it up a little, so the rat and I headed up to the Denali Highway.


I picked up another hitchhiker on the way out of town, he was cool, a bit hippy but didnít stink too much like pachouli. He worked at the Park and was headed back after a weekend in Anchorage. He grew up in the mid-west but had spent a few summers in Alaska and was talking about heading down to South America for the winter. He didnít need to be back till the next day and hinted that he wanted a little more time away from his crew, so I offered him dinner and a ride to the main road in the AM. He took me up on it, so we headed up to Cantwell and turned in on the Denali Highway.


There was already someone parked in the spot I had last time so we went back and forth a bit trying to find a suitable spot I could drag the trailer into. By then in the trip, I figured out my halibut recipe, making a little aluminum foil ďboatĒ and throwing it on my little propane grill, it was darn tasty. Nothing special, just a clove or more of garlic, smashed up with the back of a knife or a tire iron, some sliced onion or onion powder, black pepper, and a good bit of butter. That and vegetables cooked in an aluminum foil pouch made for another excellent meal and no pans to clean.


He set up his tent and I crashed out in the camper. Then next morning after some coffee and oatmeal, he hopped on the back of my bike and I dropped him off a couple miles up at the intersection so he could hitch a ride to the Park.


I cruised back to the camp, loaded up a lunch and threw some extra layers in the tail bag, filled my camel-back, bungee-corded a windshield washer fluid container filled with gas on the backrest, and headed out. I knew there were some old mining roads leading into the hills somewhere, but wasnít sure where exactly. So I first decided to scout it out and blast over to Paxson.




It felt good to be on the bike again, I was beginning to miss it. Hiking was fine and all, but I would much rather be riding.


But, this time it wasnít the same place as I had been before; now it was fall. In just the 175 miles (280k) from Anchorage to Denali I had traveled into a new season, with two days left in August.














I didnít really stop or slow down much until I made it to Paxson. The road was pretty rough with a lot of washboards in sections, but it really didnít matter, at 75 (120) they all smooth out nicely. It didnít take too long to get to there, it was only 130 miles (210k) or so from the truck and nothing too exciting as far as the road was concerned. Mostly straight and I didnít even notice I was going over a pass until I saw a sign for Maclaren Summit. The road was nothing special, but the scenery was spectacularly amazing on all sides, or something like that.

In Paxson I dumped my extra gas into the tank and topped it off at the pump, ate a little snack and then headed back, watching for the turnoffs I blasted by on my first run through. For the entire day, the sky couldnít decide what it wanted to do. Rainy over there and sunny over here, it kind of reminded me of home in the Colorado Rockies. The rain was sure nice for traction though.




Then I came across a little turnoff that looked promising, so I gave it a shot.















I didnít think it went to the mining roads I was looking for; I thought I had already figured that out, instead, I just wanted to dink around on something a little more fun to ride than the Highway. That is probably my favorite type of riding on the KLR; just go and look out for little turnoffs, then go until they dead-end or you have to turn around. Itís nice to not have a destination and just explore.


This one didnít go too far before it decided to cross a stream that I didnít want to tempt fate on out there by myself, so I headed back out to see what else I could find.
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Old 11-18-2011, 08:08 PM   #107
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Day One Off the Denali Highway (Part 2)

I headed out to the highway and up the road, at a much slower pace, with my eyes peeled for any side-road or path. I passed a one or two, but I didnít get the feeling they went anywhere and just looked like camping spots or far too boggy for me to even think about. Really, the bogs are the biggest problem with 2-wheel travel up there, but who knows; maybe that is why all the dirtbikers ride Ď85 Yamaha Big Wheels. At least from all the videos I have seen. But for the roads, I didnít exactly expect anything I found to go much of anywhere, they are all dead-ends in Alaska, and sooner more usually than later. But up the road a ways I remembered seeing a sign that looked to be well worth checking out too.







Just a small little 2-track type but it was beautiful, with everything glistening in the sun from the recent shower and beams of sun light shining on the red tundra surrounding ponds of deep blue.


















But like all the rest, it deadened waaaaaay before I wanted it to.










At least there were some Yís, or perhaps Tís that I passed on the way in, so I obviously had to see them dead-end too.


















However, the rain looked like it was coming for me again and I was getting a little nipply, so I threw on my extra layer and snapped a quick shot of my beloved slug.








And I even had another dead-end to see still too.




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Old 11-18-2011, 10:25 PM   #108
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Chewy

Yo I think that is my good buddies dog that lives in Girdwood. Chewy is everywhere haha. I live in AK I am currently riding from Portland OR to Phoenix via PCH. Good story look forward to getting further into it when I get off the road.
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Old 11-18-2011, 11:51 PM   #109
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Originally Posted by AK Smitty View Post
Yo I think that is my good buddies dog that lives in Girdwood. Chewy is everywhere haha. I live in AK I am currently riding from Portland OR to Phoenix via PCH. Good story look forward to getting further into it when I get off the road.
Lemme guess, is that a Zumo that is showing PCH taking you to Phoenix? :-)
just kidding, have a great ride...wish I were doing it!
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Old 11-25-2011, 12:27 PM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AK Smitty View Post
Yo I think that is my good buddies dog that lives in Girdwood. Chewy is everywhere haha. I live in AK I am currently riding from Portland OR to Phoenix via PCH. Good story look forward to getting further into it when I get off the road.
That is hilarious, I definitely never saw anything even slightly resembling the ugliness of the little Rat.

Thanks! Have a blast, the Oregon Coast is amazing and check out the dirt road from Tortilla Flats out of PHX if you get a chance. The Superstition Mountains are nice, happy travels!
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Old 11-25-2011, 12:28 PM   #111
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Originally Posted by ej_92606 View Post
lemme guess, is that a zumo that is showing pch taking you to phoenix? :-)
just kidding, have a great ride...wish i were doing it!
ha!
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Old 11-25-2011, 12:35 PM   #112
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Day One Off the Denali Highway (Part 3)

After the last dead-end on the Maclaren River Road, I moseyed back to the highway and the blue skies came to greet me.







Then I motored up to the mighty Malaren Pass.







It is kind of easy to miss if you are not paying attention to the signs, and after a quick shot for proof, or something, I rolled on in search for something more.

I pulled off a couple places, looking for the good stuff but again they were either too boggy or didnít look like they went anywhere. But then, after some searching, I found something that looked good. The only problem was there was a big stream crossing right out of the gate just a hundred yards (m) or so after it left the road. And it looked deep and rocky.

I suppose if I was a real ADVrider I might have gotten off, walked across checking the depth to set up cameras on the other side to record the river crossing. Although compared to everything else in Alaska, it was much more of a stream crossing, but I didnít even take a picture. I had other things to worry about instead.

Riding alone, you cannot take on risks the same way you otherwise would. It looked like it could be good on the other side, more of an ATV trail than the graded type I had been on for most of the day. But I didnít exactly have oil with me if I needed a quick change due to a mishap on the crossing. And I didnít want to do anything dumb out there by myself. But I looked up and there was a camp with a couple guys cooking dinner just up the hill. I could see they had an ATV or something and seemed to be watching me ponder the crossing. The thing that made it a go was that there were tracks through, and they looked like ATV tracks, so I figured if an ATV can make it so can my squatty KLR.

It is kind of like standing atop a cliff, with a snowboard (or skis) strapped to your feet, looking down and checking the landing before leaping. It gets your adrenaline pumping and the longer you think about it the harder it is to just go for it. So after I decided it was doable I didnít hesitate too much and went for it. On river crossings, the key is never too fast and never too slow, feet on the pegs and just go. And about half way through my front found a large bolder, bouncing my front to the left a foot or two. So I dabbed my foot, kept on the gas, made a slight adjustment and continued on to the other side. I was definitely wondering if I was going to make it that time.

Once on the far bank, with a soaked boot and toes sloshing around, the riding got goooood. It was beautiful with blue skies in most directions.







The trail went up and skirted around a little pond.

















Then it headed through a little saddle, or more of a small valley. It was nice to be riding on something where you actually had to pick a line on again.







But it was short lived, barely a mile or two before it ended in a boulder field half constructed, so I turned around and headed back.







I have to admit, after the near mishap on the way through the stream the first time, I was sweating crossing back a little, but it went smooth as butter, albeit completely submerging my front in the process.

On the other side the guys at the camp, just up the little rise from the river, were still out so I pulled over to chat. They seemed to be pretty surprised I survived the crossings. Apparently it wasnít an ATV track I saw, rather a side-by-side with a snorkel. I really should have caught that one. But they said they were ready to give me a hand if I needed it. Super cool guys they were, like all the rest of the Alaskans I met on the trip; the types to drop everything and give you a hand if you need it, no matter what the inconvenience to them.

Apparently they were building the trail back there and that is why it just ended in the middle of the boulder field. They said there was a lake back there the trail will eventually go to. I thanked them for helping make AK more rideable and headed out before it got too dark.

I pulled over after a bit, to take a quick picture of yet another amazing sunset, and warm my hands on the engine cases for a moment or two.







Then motored back towards Cantwell, and kept my eyes peeled for my next dayís adventure. The reason I came back up here in the first place. Then snapped one more pick on the long wooden bridge and pulled into camp in the dark.







Maybe I was just a FAKE, but having a furnace to dry out your soaked boots at night and a warm dry bed without any set-up or searching is pretty nice. The Rat roamed around for a while as I cooked up some quick food, then I hit the sack excited for the next dayís adventure.
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Old 12-04-2011, 01:23 PM   #113
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Day Two Off the Denali Highway

I laid In bed for a while the next morning, listening to truck after truck head up the highway out of Cantwell. There was a lot more traffic than I had seen before. After a while I got up out of the warm bed and checked out my boots, luckily they were mostly dry. I had put them up in front of the furnace for quite some time the night before and it had worked. I wasnít in too much of a rush, letting it warm up a bit before I hopped on the bike. After breakfast I grabbed my typical extra layers, rain gear, and a pack lunch and headed into Cantwell to get some gas before heading out.



At the gas station there was an old KLR and a new BMW 800 gassing up as well. They were headed into the restraint for breakfast and invited me to join; I decided I wasnít in too much of a rush so I decided to sit for a minute. The one on the KLR was from the Midwest or something like that and the older fellow was German. They had met up on the road and had been traveling for a while together. We had chatted about our trips; the German had shipped his new GS 800 to Toronto and was headed back and the other was on his way back home too. I mentioned something about what I was about to ride, but they didnít look like the off-road types and had distance to cover. After they ate and I had my coffee, we bid farewell and headed out the same direction.



Just a little ways past the truck I saw a little path off to the right, so I turned around to investigate. It was a little ATV trail that went for a bit then turned up a steep hill. It looked like it would go for a ways and may be worth continuing on. The only problem was the turn right before the little hill didnít give way for much of an in-run to gain speed. And actually the hill was not that little, a couple hundred feet, unrelenting. But, the main problem was the KLR doesnít have much suspension. You have to be careful to not let it launch you of a bump hurling off the trail, momentum is everything but you have to control it. I made it up half way or more before I lost my momentum and stopped on the steep grade. I put her in gear and stood her up on the kickstand then set off on foot to see what I could find. The little path went up a ways then circled back to the right and paralleled the highway on the hill. I wanted to see if it was something worth trying to get up, but after a short ways it seemed to turn back down and loop back to the highway.



I walked back to the bike and turned it around, laying it over, turning the bars hard, and backing it around perpendicular to the hill. The trail was small enough to where the rear was off in the bushes and I lost my footing, dropping it to the up-hill side. I remember thinking it was a shame, to have let my handlebars touch the ground for the first time like that. But I figured I couldnít complain since I had almost 19,000 miles (30,500K) on it. But, little did I know how well acquainted they would be getting the next day.



I picked the slug back up and headed back down the hill to the highway, figuring that it wasnít worth another try. It didnít take too long to pass the other guys again. As I was flying down the road all the sudden some young buck tried to race me. I decided to let him win; the race went on for a while and I didnít trust that he would stay in his lane for some reason so I yielded.







Then I noticed on the right a big trailer setting up on a hill, overlooking the valley, attaching a mounted gun. It looked like an over-sized sniper rifle from a video game, but I kept rolling to the big wooden bridge. Just a little ways from the bridge, on the Paxson side I believe, there the back of a stop sign for the people turning onto the highway. I turned off in search of what I had gone there for.



I kept going and going, a lot further than I thought, following the river for a while then turning up a valley. Then I saw a some no trespassing signs and one saying no admittance without a guide, but that was only if you took the right fork so I took the left. It started climbing then I knew I had found it. The road had turned to more of a jeep trail with a rock or two here and there and kept climbing up some switchbacks. Happy that I had found it, I then looked for a good place to stop for a bite of food. I set down the helmet and then looked up, it appeared I had a guest.








After lunch with the caribou, I snapped a shot of the bike in the grandeur, and had some fun.









































































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Old 12-04-2011, 02:52 PM   #114
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Loving this....
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Old 12-06-2011, 04:18 AM   #115
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OK, it has been said before, but I'd like a little clarification. Your pics are amazingly sharp, detailed, and colorful, the best I have seen from a mid-range P&S! Can you tell me about your post processing? Is there a "Vivid" setting on the camera? How much do you sharpen, and boost saturation? With this kind of results, we might as well leave the DSLR's at home!
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Old 12-12-2011, 09:27 PM   #116
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EJ_92606 – Thank you kindly good Sir!



Chiriqui Charlie – I can share a bit. I have tried a few things but Tina has a Mac and I have found that iPhoto is my favorite. I messed around with Picasa a little and Cannon Digital Photo Pro but they are missing the “definition” tool. That brings it out the best. I don’t use PhotoShop or anything like that.

Sharpness just adds a bunch of white and makes things look fake I have found, but the definition tool is what I go heavy on. I try to not use the other adjustments much, minimal saturation, and contrast is the only other one I put on heavy occasionally. That is my secret.












I was a little held up on the report this weekend by some mechanic’n. I got suckered into the Doohickey replacement, but maybe I shouldn’t say that, Mike and his friends may beat me up. Although I do admire his entrepreneurialism, mine was in perfect condition and in no need of a replacement. I hammer on that engine too. It was sounding a little looser than it used to and with 25k (40,220 km) it needed a good once through. I can’t say the Doohickey was a complete waste in my situation, the new spring did tighten up the second balancer chain a bit, it will be interesting to see if I can tell the difference. The $12 additional spring was a definite waste though, but that is just my 2 cents.

I also took two-thousandths of an inch (.05 mm) off all the valve shims to get them off the minimum thresholds. I was planning on throwing in a new cam chain too, since I had it in my hands, but it was still in factory new tolerances. But, enough of that, back to the irregularly scheduled program now.
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Old 12-12-2011, 09:49 PM   #117
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Day Two Off the Denali Highway (Part 2)

It must have been fun to be the old miner driving the backhoe to make the trails back there. Heading up the valley and pointing at a hill. A switchback here and a hill climb there, another hill there, oops, too steep there better turn around here, going from one hill to the next and the next. I didnít see any holes in the ground; it looked like he never dug down up there. Not sure if he found gold on the hills, but he made a good little bit of outstanding dualsport riding though. Not sure I would want to do it on a GS, some of it is a little steep and rocky for a street bike, not that you couldnít do it Iím sure, but perfect on a squatty KLR.



After I followed all his tracks to all the dead-ends, I saw that the only other track was headed down the next valley into the mine. However, it was far from quitting time and it was just too much fun, I had to do it all again.







I stopped to admire the view, and take a moment let it digest, and noticed my buddy from lunch had met back up with his friends.



It was peaceful, as though they knew that it was their last lunch in safety, moving closer and closer to the refuge in Denali, safe from the hunting season that began the following day. Or who knows, maybe not close enough.







But I wished them the best of luck and headed for the next hill-climb and vista and then the next and the nextÖ






































It is amazing how fast the sky can change its mood, I could definitely make a reference here but I might get in trouble. But, I wasnít too worried about getting a little wet or putting on the old rubber suit, I let the trusty MSR Gore-Tex, or whatever Malcolm uses these days, do its job. Although, after a few trips down to Baja they arenít as good as they used to be; but I have to keep my mind off that subject this time of year without a trip planned.



Since there werenít any ugly signs telling me not to from this side, I cruised through the mine on the way out. One of those explore every road urges I suppose. Now I guess you could say I am a bit hypocritical, I may have given someone a little bit of a hard time, trying to get a point across on his post here the other day. Now, Iím not perfect, and the situation was a bit different, but I putted through, smiling and waving to all the miners. That was after I stopped to take a picture of another pretty rainbow of course.







You know when getting there seems to take a whole lot longer than getting back? Well, this time it was completely opposite. It seemed like it took forever to get back to the highway, it was up there a bit further than I had thought. I kept rolling and rolling and finally I came to the stop sign and headed for the pull-off by the bridge for a second before blasting up the dirt highway.






On the way back, it seemed like every possible pull-of had a RV and a hunter, all getting ready. I saw the guys with the 50 caliber sniper rifle mounted on a wooden shack built on a trailer again and they gave me a wave. So, I decided to pull over and see what was going on. I felt a little odd asking them for a picture, not that they would have minded Iím sure, but they were the ones that confirmed the caribou hunting season started the next day.



After a quick chat, I headed back to camp, packed up and rolled south then turned off towards Petersville, stopping in the dark at the first decent looking spot a few miles after the pavement ended.
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Old 12-13-2011, 12:32 AM   #118
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I want to shoot in Alaska!

I think timing is also your friend for photographs... Those little passing showers wet things down and make the color pop. The clouds are controlling the light and adding a dynamic element to the sky and the landscape...Most people aren't wandering around in the rain taking photos, but these little squals are helping you out. Awesome work!
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Old 12-13-2011, 01:48 PM   #119
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Thanks for sharing pictures they are awesome. It looks like you had a great time. I have always wanted to go. Hope the career end works out for you. If not being laid off doesn't look that bad lol. -Gary
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Old 12-26-2011, 12:38 PM   #120
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Tall Mike – Thanks! I definitely had a ton of help by the surroundings, the clouds keep changing, the shadows and light are always moving quickly, and the sun stays low in the sky for a lot longer. I just tried to do a halfway decent job of capturing it. I’m sure I have said it a thousand times but it is truly an amazing place. Good luck getting up there one day, it is only 3,000 miles from Denver and you are a lot closer than me.




NHADV – Thanks a million, glad you are enjoying it! I love the new career and its freedom, but it is easy to see why it is hard finding a job when you are getting paid about the same as the other jobs out there to not work for up to two-plus years. It is a little too good of a deal perhaps, but forget the politics, I have some more riding to post.
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