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Old 06-02-2011, 07:05 AM   #76
crankshaft
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tileman View Post
I made a clamp similar to whats above with the internal backing plate. Check post #179 and after for pics etc....

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...461007&page=12

It wasn't 2 hard to machine and I have used a ultra hard rubber both inside and out to help with some of the vibration that I figure will happen.

http://i732.photobucket.com/albums/w...2122010006.jpg

http://i732.photobucket.com/albums/w...2122010003.jpg
Beautiful piece!
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Old 06-02-2011, 09:46 AM   #77
lastplace
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Beautiful piece!
Nice machining and design! But the only thing I don't like about the two recent bolt-on setups is that the bolts go straight back towards the bike. I've used mounting brackets like this in long rallies and the bolts sometimes get loose. Bigger and more bolts will minimize this, of course. Some of the more successful bolt-on mounting brackets wrap around the head tube a bit more and send the mounting bolts in from the side, so that the side stress on the bolts does not tend to loosen them so much. After messing around with several different options, I've decided that welding the bracket to the frame is the safest way to go.
Please keep posting photos. I'll try to dig up some more too.
fun fun
Charlie
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Old 06-02-2011, 10:43 AM   #78
TimFinnegan
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Hey Charlie! For not loosing the screws you could put a hard rubber piece inside which takes up the vibrations. If this doesn't help you should use rubber+selflocking nuts+loctite and some of these little ones:


They are called Nordlock washer. Quite an intelligent product:


Normaly you only get them in a 100-pieces-box but KTM uses them for some really important screws eg. shift lever and you can order them seperately.
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Old 06-02-2011, 08:21 PM   #79
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CSK & Loctite

Charlie said:
Quote:
Originally Posted by lastplace View Post
I've used mounting brackets like this in long rallies and the bolts sometimes get loose.
Hello Charlie,
I went with smaller threads, to get more threads in the headstock tube and where possible I use CSK SHCS; countersunk socket head cap screws. Countersunk heads are self locking by nature and resist vibration and loosening to a far greater extent than flat head bolts. You will notice this is why they use countersunk nuts on touring cars (and maybe F1) cause they dont want the nut coming loose and the wheel falling off. It is obviously more of a PITA to drill AND countersink holes than just drilling a hole and putting a bolt in. However the reliability is greatly increased using countersunk heads. You just need to have the right tools used at the right speed to get a good countersink.

Secondly, to be sure, Loctite, the real strong kind cause once that block is on it aint coming off.


Cheers
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Old 06-03-2011, 01:14 AM   #80
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Originally Posted by lastplace View Post
Bigger and more bolts will minimize this, of course. Some of the more successful bolt-on mounting brackets wrap around the head tube a bit more and send the mounting bolts in from the side, so that the side stress on the bolts does not tend to loosen them so much.

Charlie
I had this thought but how to machine the holes at the correct angle with enough meat left behind was my concern. Pilbara's part looks quite a bit bigger than what I built and in reality since I am using a crashed bike with a tweaked headlight/fairing mount this was a easier way. Also the bike is not going to be used for rally's as the others pictured in the thread obviously are.
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Old 06-03-2011, 01:16 AM   #81
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Secondly, to be sure, Loctite, the real strong kind cause once that block is on it aint coming off.


Cheers
Pilbara
I want this !!!

Pilbara, are you using fairings with this setup and do you have any more pics of this???
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Old 06-05-2011, 09:49 PM   #82
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Front of Neil's WR450. I've copied the dimensions of the JVO kit so the fairing and light will fit, but slightly different design. Hopefully strong enough now to withstand Neil's abuse.
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Old 06-05-2011, 09:50 PM   #83
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Front photo of that same WR.
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Old 06-06-2011, 04:59 PM   #84
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Front of Neil's WR450. I've copied the dimensions of the JVO kit so the fairing and light will fit, but slightly different design. Hopefully strong enough now to withstand Neil's abuse.
How thick are the side plates? 3/4/5mm

Did you consider delrin round rod for the spacers between the centre spine and the side plates? From the specs I have found its about 1/3 the weight of most alloys without a massive loss in strength and being a polymer would likely have greater vibration resistance. Thoughts anyhow.
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Old 06-17-2011, 05:07 AM   #85
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How does everyone with the handlebar mounted setups get around the problem of the brake line banging up against the nav mount when the forks compress? On my DRZ I just put the line through a P clamp and allowed the line to bow out in front.

Not perfect but it worked. any ideas? Or do I just tilt the brackets up further?
A pic or two of my setup for Yilgarn. I have test ridden it and apart from the brake line issue it works really well. I really don't notice the weight but I haven't done 400 odd km on it yet

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Old 06-17-2011, 05:23 AM   #86
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Route it straight up the fork leg and inbetween handlebars and roadbook;

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Old 06-17-2011, 05:28 AM   #87
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Thanks mate
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Old 06-17-2011, 06:51 AM   #88
Billy.B.F.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M.R. View Post
How does everyone with the handlebar mounted setups get around the problem of the brake line banging up against the nav mount when the forks compress?
I go the 'pin and flex' method, similar to what you've shown (apologies for the lack of pics in a pics thread ).
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Old 06-17-2011, 07:46 AM   #89
lastplace
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How does everyone with the handlebar mounted setups get around the problem of the brake line banging up against the nav mount when the forks compress?
I run the brake line down the right fork to the bottom triple, then across the triple using P clamps. Then it bows out to the left when the forks compress. In the photo of the WR a few posts above and you can see the line on Neil's WR.

The DRZ looks good. Good luck.

fun fun
Charlie
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Old 07-02-2011, 09:54 AM   #90
theantipaul
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The piece that is driving my design are the lights,

Baja Designs 4" and 6" and Hella 90mm,



Seth mentioned a page or so ago that the BD Fuegos could be used in pod mode, they can! They're about perfect for what I want to do



With the lights finally nailed down I could move on to the rest of the assembly,





While riding over the last few weeks, I've been playing with where I want the roadbook mounted, I can't see squat with it down low while standing, but I don't want to sit every time I want to look at it, what are the real guys doing?



I'll be making it so that I can run the bike with the whole assembly removed and stock headlight or just the fairing/lights mounted to the forks. I'll start with a Voyager that'll be staying on for all configs, the rest will bolt on and off depending on what type of riding I'm doing.



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