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Old 02-19-2013, 08:25 AM   #1336
Baja Dad
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very nifty !!!
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Old 02-21-2013, 10:53 PM   #1337
Gany
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Anyone know the current draw from the f2R roadbooks? I blew the 1A fuse and seemed to kill 2 switches testing a circuit. The switch manufacturer needs to know the amps, I dont have an ammeter.

Funnily, second set of switches worked perfectly with no change to the circuit so no idea what I did wrong the first time.

Im using 2 switches instead of toggle to drive the motor forwards and backwards without the use of a controller chip.
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Old 02-22-2013, 07:32 AM   #1338
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gany View Post
Anyone know the current draw from the f2R roadbooks? I blew the 1A fuse and seemed to kill 2 switches testing a circuit. The switch manufacturer needs to know the amps, I dont have an ammeter.

Funnily, second set of switches worked perfectly with no change to the circuit so no idea what I did wrong the first time.

Im using 2 switches instead of toggle to drive the motor forwards and backwards without the use of a controller chip.
F2R RB-730 and RB-750 models are shipped with 1.5A fuses.

Use of two switches without a controller is "at your own risk".

Dave
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Old 02-22-2013, 11:01 AM   #1339
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Im aware of what fuses they are shipped with as i had to replace one.

I doubt mecasystems uses a controller chip and i daresay they run the same circuit design as me which is currently working perfectly fine with my second set of switches with no short circuit even if both buttons are pressed at once. Pressing of one switch breaks the circuit for the second switch so it cant short.
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Old 02-22-2013, 11:03 AM   #1340
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Old 02-22-2013, 07:03 PM   #1341
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Wow, what a thread!! In fact, all i caould do today was stare at the screen and study it...

Anyway, a recurring theme in all towers is use of alloy over steel (let's ignore HDPE for now).
I understand that alloys boast with about a third of the density of steel, but surely you could use thinner steel sheet and maintain the same rigidity? Is this true?

An advantage i can see in it is not really applicable to rallies as much as to normal adv-riding in that a steel tower can be welded in some remote mountai village in need be, whereas alloy....
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Old 02-22-2013, 09:51 PM   #1342
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Ok. I had a thought about toggle switches used with some roadbooks. Somewhere I think read that using it for long periods of sustained time can be quite painful. If that is when the roll is being wound onto the roll axle it would be in the opposite direction to what would be wound while on the road, most of the time anyway.

I mean if the roll went from top to bottom then to wind it on would go bottom to top right? If that is the case or even the opposite directions to save having to hold the toggle in couldn't the toggle be replaced with a mom-off-on switch? I know while using the roadbook in a rally you may need to run backwards but for the majority of the time wouldn't you need to run it in the same direction? Therefore the need to get the paper roll onto it could but just locked on eg, in the on position on the switch?

I have just come off night shift so maybe my brain is a bit fried so this post may have to consigned to the bin but I thought I would onto the thread and see what came up.
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Old 02-23-2013, 01:45 AM   #1343
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Wouldn't be too funny realising you forgot to flip the switch to "off" after say 1.5 km in a rally....
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Old 02-23-2013, 02:11 AM   #1344
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Originally Posted by Evil Invader View Post
Wouldn't be too funny realising you forgot to flip the switch to "off" after say 1.5 km in a rally....
Depends, some of the heros in this years dakar could have used this feature .......
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Old 02-23-2013, 06:39 AM   #1345
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bli55 View Post
Wow, what a thread!! In fact, all i caould do today was stare at the screen and study it...

Anyway, a recurring theme in all towers is use of alloy over steel (let's ignore HDPE for now).
I understand that alloys boast with about a third of the density of steel, but surely you could use thinner steel sheet and maintain the same rigidity? Is this true?

An advantage i can see in it is not really applicable to rallies as much as to normal adv-riding in that a steel tower can be welded in some remote mountai village in need be, whereas alloy....
Imagine that AL plates are 2 - 3 mm. You cannot go below 2 in my opinion in any of these. Too thin and will start to create wave effects. SS is too heavy at the moment. I sourced some reinforced polycarbonate which you cold bend in a sheet bending press and it is the staff that they use in the bullet proof glasses. It looks promising at the moment, it is way ligher than aluminium, it has a certain degree of flexilbility and it can be painted.
Either way if you have time looking for a welder, then you have too much time (just kidding) . Towers can be made to be repairable, but this has to be incorporated in the design process. For example you could have cut-marks and the plates will be destroyed in specific points which then you can bolt together using small metal plates and hex bolts until you go home.


Tileman, Nice Job with the Tower !! Simple and effective
Regarding the switch, the buttons should be the wrong type for your hand to get tired. May be the ergonomics are wrong as well. There are some soft APEM buttons which are smoother than a good looking woman's butt but then again you have to pay for them. From what I have seen they are very difficult to destroy.

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640 Armageddon screwed with this post 02-24-2013 at 08:51 AM
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Old 02-23-2013, 02:41 PM   #1346
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bli55 View Post
Anyway, a recurring theme in all towers is use of alloy over steel (let's ignore HDPE for now).
I understand that alloys boast with about a third of the density of steel, but surely you could use thinner steel sheet and maintain the same rigidity? Is this true?
Aluminium has a better strength to weight ratio than steel. That's not to say you couldn't make a successful tower out of steel it's just not as ideal theoretically.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Gany View Post
Anyone know the current draw from the f2R roadbooks? I blew the 1A fuse and seemed to kill 2 switches testing a circuit. The switch manufacturer needs to know the amps, I dont have an ammeter
Hey Gany, I measured* 3.7 amps maximum, that was with the backlight on and motor going.

*that doesn't sound right to me, my multimeter was on the 10 amp setting showing 3.7 but there is a 1 amp fuse in mine. Maybe it 1 amp but a higher voltage?
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Old 02-23-2013, 03:30 PM   #1347
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ok,ok, i understand the logic. It's just that I was thinking in the context of this:



(from http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...0#post20590990)

So IF one goes for steel, you suggest a minimum of 2mm?
What about if it's alu?
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Old 02-23-2013, 05:19 PM   #1348
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Thanks Michael. The switches i user are 2A rated and the second ones are working fine?!

Ive emailed Tomaz to see if he can shed some light.
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Old 02-23-2013, 10:41 PM   #1349
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bli55 View Post
ok,ok, i understand the logic. It's just that I was thinking in the context of this:



(from http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...0#post20590990)
Just had a look at this thread. Amazing trip, bit long to read it all now.

Heres a closer pic of the tower they are finding a welder for.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...24638&page=106

I figure that welding like such can create its own problems, where as correctly bend alloy sheet is probably going to survive a lot better.

In respect of being able to fix while in the middle of nowhere I'd agree your probably more likely going to find someone that could weld steel more so than alloy.

As stated earlier, thats whats great about this thread, different idea's as some people have different needs from the unit that they are building, designing, using (e.g. end use, not always a rally raid or equivalent).

keep it up!!!
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Old 02-27-2013, 06:34 AM   #1350
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Rally Raid Products Roadbook mount

Quote:
Originally Posted by beaney View Post



We've been using this rally-light set up for a couplr of years now. Billet plate bolts to H/bar top clamp



http://www.rally-raidproducts.co.uk/...r-scott-ohlins

http://www.rally-raidproducts.co.uk/...dbook%20-mount


Hi there,
I was wondering if anyone here uses the rallyraid products roadbook mount.
The question I have is about the finish of the plate.
I do some little roadbook adventure tours in NL and BE, using a Touratech RB TTi and ICO. On the other times I use my KTM520 '2002 in some cross country races. Therefore I was looking out for an easy but robust solution to mount and demount the navigation instruments as quick as possible.
I found the rallyraidproducts solution for the KTM to fit perfect my needs.
So I ordered the billet top bar clamp as well as the billet roadbook mount http://www.rally-raidproducts.co.uk/...dbook%20-mount from a german shop as the fees for shipping to Germany are pretty high.
I received the items and was astonished of the different finish of both items. Both items should have been silver anodized but the roadbook mount isn't. As well the whole finish of the roadbook mount in contrast to the top bar clamp seems to me more like an engineering prototype. Now I was wondering if the description on the HP of RRP is wrong or I really received a kind of prototype (but payed full price). I allready wrote an email to RRP directly (but no reply since 4 weeks). my dealer in germany only had 5 items that he sold and all of these looked like mine so he is in comunication with RRP on this but has not finished so far the discussion.
It would be nice if someone here could, that uses this parts could tell me if you have the same finish for both parts.

Thanks,
Markus
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