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Old 06-07-2011, 02:02 PM   #76
Uller
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Thank You!!

I currently can't do the 15 min recalibration and I have constantly done the twist on/off; shutoff procedure.

Thanks for the suggestions. I repackaged all the wiring up front and could have blocked that tube... that could be it for the stalling. Just thinking out loud..... The pressure inside the sensor is ok after it sits for a long time and will run for a short while, then the readings would change in the sensor and cause the abrupt stall. Pressure stays when trying to restart immediately and causes it to not run for as long, then stall.

And your suggestion for the regulator sounds good too (that could be the cause of the new battery going bad within 200 miles). I haven't tested the reg/rect out yet.

Do you know, when they found out it was bad, did it test out faulty or was it one of those strange intermittent things that seemed ok at first?

I tested the resistance in the stator last night. It seems fine. I'll try to test out the resistor/regulator tonight.

Maybe this would help with diagnosis: After my battery issue (solo trip, pouring down rain, died 4 mi. into the mountains from a road, then multiple 500 ft. elev hills to get to main highway, not fun!!! ) I decided to get one of these. http://signaldynamics.com/index.php?...mart&Itemid=77

It was the smallest monitor I could find (not much dash space on the 690 ). Anyhow, it is acting extremely weird. When the bike did run it would show that there was less than 12 volts in the system. And a couple of times it did show that there was over 15.25 volts in the system. This mainly happened though while the motor wasn't running which struck me as really strange. I am not fantastic with electrical so, not really sure what it means exactly. How can the system be showing over 15.25 volts with only the battery producting power and it is testing out at 12.9 volts with my multimeter when I see the flashing green?

I was about ready to return the monitor because I didn't think it was working properly.....

I recorded all of the fault codes that I have seen. They are at the house though. I'll put them in here once I get home.

Thanks for your efforts/suggestions. I really appreciate it.

Uller screwed with this post 06-07-2011 at 02:09 PM
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Old 06-07-2011, 02:50 PM   #77
crankshaft
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uller View Post
I currently can't do the 15 min recalibration and I have constantly done the twist on/off; shutoff procedure.

Thanks for the suggestions. I repackaged all the wiring up front and could have blocked that tube... that could be it for the stalling. Just thinking out loud..... The pressure inside the sensor is ok after it sits for a long time and will run for a short while, then the readings would change in the sensor and cause the abrupt stall. Pressure stays when trying to restart immediately and causes it to not run for as long, then stall.

And your suggestion for the regulator sounds good too (that could be the cause of the new battery going bad within 200 miles). I haven't tested the reg/rect out yet.

Do you know, when they found out it was bad, did it test out faulty or was it one of those strange intermittent things that seemed ok at first?

I tested the resistance in the stator last night. It seems fine. I'll try to test out the resistor/regulator tonight.

Maybe this would help with diagnosis: After my battery issue (solo trip, pouring down rain, died 4 mi. into the mountains from a road, then multiple 500 ft. elev hills to get to main highway, not fun!!! ) I decided to get one of these. http://signaldynamics.com/index.php?...mart&Itemid=77

It was the smallest monitor I could find (not much dash space on the 690 ). Anyhow, it is acting extremely weird. When the bike did run it would show that there was less than 12 volts in the system. And a couple of times it did show that there was over 15.25 volts in the system. This mainly happened though while the motor wasn't running which struck me as really strange. I am not fantastic with electrical so, not really sure what it means exactly. How can the system be showing over 15.25 volts with only the battery producting power and it is testing out at 12.9 volts with my multimeter when I see the flashing green?

I was about ready to return the monitor because I didn't think it was working properly.....

I recorded all of the fault codes that I have seen. They are at the house though. I'll put them in here once I get home.

Thanks for your efforts/suggestions. I really appreciate it.
That's interesting, My bike would act funky after a water crossing but it ran great when I replaced the injector (of course it sat for a awhile), so no I'm wondering if I might have the same problem. It would run really rough and then flame out.....
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Old 06-11-2011, 10:56 AM   #78
Uller
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My fault codes were as follows:

P0113 Inlet Air Temp Sensor open/short
P0227 Grip Throttle Position, low volt (open/short)
P0413 Secondary Air Injection System Short/Open
P1533 Unknown
P2199 Throttle Position Fault


I hadn't ever had my bike hooked up so, none of the codes from long ago would have been ereased, like the secondary air (it now has a resistor faking comp)

After I ereased them and tried to run the bike again these came up:

P108 MAP Sensor Short/open (i did disconnect this at one time)
P0122 TPS Low Voltage (i was adjusting these)
P0113 (airbox was out)
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Old 06-20-2011, 11:13 PM   #79
ravine
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Hey Uller, have you solved your stalling issue?

My '08 690E just started having a similar problem. I installed a G2 throttle tamer 2 weeks ago. Now stalls right after warm restarts. It will start fine when cold, but after running for about 10 minutes it stalls when coming to a complete stop. The past two times I waited 5 minutes before restarting and it fixed itself.

It happened again today coming back in to town after a 40 minute ride on the back roads. This time I could barely get it to idle. I had to keep the revs up to about 2400 rpm while coasting or it would stall.

I back home now but it just starts and immediately flames out. Won't run for more than 4 seconds.

I'm guessing that the throttle cable free play may have changed when I installed the new throttle tube and now my TPS voltages are out of whack. I will readjust the throttle cables tomorrow.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Uller View Post
My fault codes were as follows:

P0113 Inlet Air Temp Sensor open/short
P0227 Grip Throttle Position, low volt (open/short)
P0413 Secondary Air Injection System Short/Open
P1533 Unknown
P2199 Throttle Position Fault


I hadn't ever had my bike hooked up so, none of the codes from long ago would have been ereased, like the secondary air (it now has a resistor faking comp)

After I ereased them and tried to run the bike again these came up:

P108 MAP Sensor Short/open (i did disconnect this at one time)
P0122 TPS Low Voltage (i was adjusting these)
P0113 (airbox was out)
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Old 07-04-2011, 09:15 AM   #80
Maurizio OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ravine View Post
I will readjust the throttle cables tomorrow.
Did it solved your problem?

I am thinking about a G2, but I don't want to mess with a perfect running bike...
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Old 07-05-2011, 02:04 AM   #81
GezwindeSpoed
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I changed the EPT mapping to a combination of low power setting and the normal setting. So low response at low throttle but going to the end full power. I like it a lot.
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Old 07-05-2011, 04:27 AM   #82
crankshaft
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GezwindeSpoed View Post
I changed the EPT mapping to a combination of low power setting and the normal setting. So low response at low throttle but going to the end full power. I like it a lot.
It's amazing isn't it
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Old 07-05-2011, 07:13 AM   #83
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I opened this thread with the best intentions of digging in the ecu thing, but, maybe luckily, I have not had any spare time to study the matter.

Some time ago I posted the graph of a tps map like this:



Dear tune experts: does it make any sense as a 1:1 tps map or it will be an easy way to destroy the engine (or the rider...)?
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Old 07-05-2011, 07:28 AM   #84
Uller
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Don't quote me on this cause I'm not 100% but, I believe that your graph is incorrect.

For a 1 to 1 you would need to change all of the values to 100.

There are others on here who have messed with this, and are much smarter than I who should probably give you your answer. Hopefully, they will chime in.

I've been reading of a few referring to Beany's map however, I don't know how they got it or what it is. I did see some settings he suggested a long time ago in the Megathread but, can't find them now.
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Old 07-06-2011, 12:53 AM   #85
GezwindeSpoed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maurizio View Post
I opened this thread with the best intentions of digging in the ecu thing, but, maybe luckily, I have not had any spare time to study the matter.

Some time ago I posted the graph of a tps map like this:



Dear tune experts: does it make any sense as a 1:1 tps map or it will be an easy way to destroy the engine (or the rider...)?
Isn't the advanced EPT mapping 1:1. I think so.
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Old 07-06-2011, 12:57 AM   #86
Maurizio OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GezwindeSpoed View Post
Isn't the advanced EPT mapping 1:1. I think so.
I don't really know.

Or, better, the advanced throttle map has a curve similarly to the reduced power or the standard maps, maybe steeper.

I can "start" tuneECU and post the graph of the original maps.
The graph in my post was made by me, but I am not brave enough to test it...
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Old 07-06-2011, 01:02 AM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uller View Post
For a 1 to 1 you would need to change all of the values to 100.
Doesn't a full 100% tps curve open the butterfly even without touching the throttle grip? Just wondering...
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Old 07-06-2011, 02:41 AM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GezwindeSpoed View Post
Isn't the advanced EPT mapping 1:1. I think so.
I had a look at the "performance" setting in the Akra EPT map dowloaded from my bike and it definitely is 1:1: at any of the % of throttle rotation the butterfly opening is set at the same %, at all rpms.

My mistake was not to consider that the throttle position %s progression in the top line of the graph is not linear.
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Old 07-06-2011, 11:38 PM   #89
GezwindeSpoed
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Oke, that has been cleared up
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Old 07-08-2011, 12:41 PM   #90
ravine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maurizio View Post
Did it solved your problem?

I am thinking about a G2, but I don't want to mess with a perfect running bike...
My suggestion is to get the G2. I really liked while the bike was still running well. It makes a big difference in reducing the binary like throttle response. I think the correlation between the G2 and stalling is purely coincidental.

I went ahead and readjusted the cables the next day.and it still wouldn't run. I was about to leave town for a few days so i thought I'd give my dealer a crack at the problem. I'm lucky enough to have a great dealer nearby and they let me bring the bike in that afternoon.

First thing they did was start from scratch and remap with the latest Euro Akra map. The mechanic told me that they've been able to fix a few stalling issues by cleaning the fuel injector so they did that too. According to them the bike started right up afterwards. So problem cured for now. I also asked them to also replace the fuel filter for good measure, It was due for a scheduled maintenance replacement anyway.

Dealer says the mechanic went for an extended test ride afterwards and it checked out fine. Why am I not surprised a short shake down ride on a 690 turns into an "Extended test ride"?

I just got back from a 2 week honeymoon with the new Mrs. Ravine. I pick up the bike later today. I'll report back after my extended test ride
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