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Old 02-11-2014, 10:33 AM   #10411
Emmbeedee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeeK_InsiDe View Post
I have that kind of USB cable, bought 2 for $4, I don't know if they wear better than the Garmin one, for the price I'm sceptic

Must you always screw/unscrew the security screw when you want to move the unit or is it optional?

I think you just solder the two cables to the BMW plug that's on top of the battery (like I did for my dual USB plug)? Any problems of drained battery (I read some problems with the Zumo 340 and this thing)?
Your example is not the exact cable you bought. But no matter which USB cable you use, it, or the socket on the gps, will eventually wear out.

No, you do not need to lock the Torx screw if you don't want to. It's there, but not required that you use it.

I use this setup on my Montana mount: a SAE connector to my Battery Tender cable.

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"The motorcycle, being poorly designed for both flight and marine operation, sustained significant external and internal damage," police noted.
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Old 02-11-2014, 10:44 AM   #10412
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Originally Posted by TowPro View Post
problem is that opens a hole for water to get in. And at least over here, the rugged mount is pretty inexpensive.

Not to mention that USB ports are not very rugged, and can fail over time when running on handlebars.. It's happened with several older units I've had


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Old 02-11-2014, 10:44 AM   #10413
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Here is the BMW GPS cable. This is just an example, you can find it at any BMW dealer (but they might need to order it)
http://www.motorcycleparts-hornig.co...e-GPS-12V.html.

It has 3 wires, but you only use 2 (can't recall which ones to use) with your montana.
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Old 02-11-2014, 10:51 AM   #10414
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I have it, this is how I soldered my dual USB plug ;)

Thank's for advice, I'd think about it!
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Old 02-11-2014, 11:12 PM   #10415
robdogg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emmbeedee View Post
I use this setup on my Montana mount: a SAE connector to my Battery Tender cable.
great idea.. that way I can easily swap the unit from bike to bike.. do you have a diagram, or can you speak from memory how you connected the two SAE leads with the five wires that come out of the garmin cable? there's a red (power) and a blue, black, green and yellow.. and the audio cable of course.
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Old 02-12-2014, 04:20 AM   #10416
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Originally Posted by robdogg View Post
can you speak from memory how you connected the two SAE leads with the five wires that come out of the garmin cable?
You asked Emmbeedee, but I'm barging in with my version.

I put a Powerlet 90-degree plug on my RAM rugged mount. Red (fused) is 12V positive, black is 12V negative.

I cut my wire short like Emmbeedee and I dabbed liquid electrical tape on the ends of the unused wires. (They probably don't carry significant current and they probably won't short, but I try to be careful.)

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Grinnin screwed with this post 02-12-2014 at 04:25 AM
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Old 02-12-2014, 04:34 AM   #10417
Emmbeedee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robdogg View Post
great idea.. that way I can easily swap the unit from bike to bike.. do you have a diagram, or can you speak from memory how you connected the two SAE leads with the five wires that come out of the garmin cable? there's a red (power) and a blue, black, green and yellow.. and the audio cable of course.
If you are connecting to a Battery Tender connector on your bike, the female part of the SAE connector on the bike is positive/red, so make sure you wire the mount side of the wiring with the red to the male part of the SAE plug.
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"The motorcycle, being poorly designed for both flight and marine operation, sustained significant external and internal damage," police noted.
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Old 02-12-2014, 04:37 AM   #10418
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For those that have shortened these cables. Does it not matter that you have lost the in-line fuse or is it fused elsewhere?
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Old 02-12-2014, 04:52 AM   #10419
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Originally Posted by ACP View Post
For those that have shortened these cables. Does it not matter that you have lost the in-line fuse or is it fused elsewhere?
Mine is fused elsewhere
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Old 02-12-2014, 05:04 AM   #10420
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For those that have shortened these cables. Does it not matter that you have lost the in-line fuse or is it fused elsewhere?
Mine is fused close to the battery.
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Old 02-12-2014, 05:48 AM   #10421
Emmbeedee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robdogg View Post
great idea.. that way I can easily swap the unit from bike to bike.. do you have a diagram, or can you speak from memory how you connected the two SAE leads with the five wires that come out of the garmin cable? there's a red (power) and a blue, black, green and yellow.. and the audio cable of course.
For the record:

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Want to know more about the Garmin Montana? See the Wisdom and FAQ Thread.
Want to know more about the Garmin VIRB? See here.
"The motorcycle, being poorly designed for both flight and marine operation, sustained significant external and internal damage," police noted.
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Old 02-12-2014, 06:22 AM   #10422
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Thanks fellas. Great stuff


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Old 02-12-2014, 06:44 AM   #10423
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I still would put an inline fuse, of the recommend size inline with the unit.

If its supposed to be a 1/2 amp fuse (not sure of the recommended size), and you are eliminate it because your already running a 15 amp on the SAE line, the garmin will need to fry itself trying to blow that 15 amp fuse.
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Old 02-12-2014, 08:29 AM   #10424
Grinnin
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Originally Posted by TowPro View Post
If its supposed to be a 1/2 amp fuse (not sure of the recommended size), and you are eliminate it because your already running a 15 amp on the SAE line, the garmin will need to fry itself trying to blow that 15 amp fuse.
Yes.

Garmin uses a 2A fuse there.
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Old 02-12-2014, 08:49 AM   #10425
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Originally Posted by TowPro View Post
I still would put an inline fuse, of the recommend size inline with the unit.

If its supposed to be a 1/2 amp fuse (not sure of the recommended size), and you are eliminate it because your already running a 15 amp on the SAE line, the garmin will need to fry itself trying to blow that 15 amp fuse.
If it's "trying to blow" a fuse, even the recommended size (whatever it is), it's already fried. Sort of a cart before the horse scenario.

A fuse has one primary purpose and it's not to prevent damage to the end device, it's to prevent fires.... That's why the bulk of code for fusing (and other electrical practices) was generated by the National Fire Prevention Association as the National Electric Code.

A properly sized fuse is going to be no larger than the maximum rated capacity of the downstream wiring, connectors, switches etc. and greater than about 140% of the expected "normal" draw (the latter to prevent fuse "aging")....

Usually I'll go with the common size that is >150% of expected load under all conditions and then insure everything downstream can handle that fuse rating.
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