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Old 03-29-2015, 11:33 PM   #1
Cyemm OP
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Continental Divide both ways....

A year ago ago 4 of us decided to run the famous Continental Divide Route.



I've been riding my whole life, dirt was where I started but that was in a galaxy far far away, a long distant memory - over 20 years ago. I currently also only have a supercharged zx-10, a triumph rocket and a maxim 400. Obviously I need a new bike. A dualsport. I was going to drop it, I was going to take it places I had no business going, I wanted a proven entity but didn't want to blow 10 g's only to realize - Meh.

I have a loose group of fellow riders, we try to do a 2-3 thousand mile trip every summer.But... I bought a house recently here in Seattle, and everyone's lives kind of diverged, and, well, you know, it's tough to get time off, new job, more money but more responsibilities, etc etc. I just didn't have the time or energy to plan anymore. Thankfully, my good bud Sherpa John ( because the guy is unstoppable at anything aerobically challenging, regardless of what he's dragging) picked up the reins and did all the gruntwork to set this up.

(You may have seen a preliminary unfinished version of this RR earlier, but it was a hack job. I've added much text, better and more pics, etc.)

So, after searching here and craigs and far and wide... I found a GS. Over 100000 miles but the price was nice, and it was obviously well cared for. local as well. I'm a big guy, and I like powerful bikes. A single would not have cut it for me.

Tada!

1996 r1100gs.....




What does a beemer rider and a porcupine have in common - prick is on the outside.

Wife approves - but after a 10 hr run a Corbin was voted in.





Buddy JJ buys a bright green KLR (with a crazy bright HID)....



And our fearless leader/ navigator John up-armours his wee-strom, which we immediately christen J-lo as the huge Givi bags give a hell of a rear silhouette.
And speaking of lo, thank whatever deity you want that he bolted up the beastliest skidplate he could find - truly saved him multiple times.





So we three would set off from Seattle, heading for Roosville Montane and the beginning of the EPIC. Good Buddy Bryant would meet us near there as he was riding in from Colorado on.... yes... another KLR (code RED)...



After spending the summer getting ready, buying, dreaming, reading RR's (esp. Bigdog and Cannonshot - shout out to youse guys), testing, finally August 15 rolled around and the final packing job was complete...



HID in front. Big leds. TKC's (we all ran them - without speaking about it beforehand) Decided to try run the stock bags (had drybags as liners inside each). Huge bright orange drybag (with backpack straps) on the excellent homestyle rack the bike came from the Previous Owner with. More wiring than the space shuttle. phone, garmin, contour vid camera, digital camera. Ram mounts all over. Had spent the summer at the local REI outdoor giant, buying gear as we didn't know how much/how primitive we'd be going. Stanton headguards. New oil, filters, pads.

Spare gas (64 oz in 2 MSR fuel bottles) and 3l water bladder in a camelbak - soon learned to strap that puppy OUTSIDE the drybag.

Rokstraps - Just get some. Ended up losing the cargo net and just using the straps. easy, solid. Hell of a product

Eastward Ho. The lush wet green of west Washington changes almost instantly to dry deserty scrub after summiting the Cascade mountains. Sunny but dry and HOT. Tilting at...



Columbia river crazy low....



Crazy pilot in a polished aluminum cropduster did a couple of strafing runs with us after I gave him my best Tom Cruise fist shake. Cool encounter - the fields were actually below us to the right, we were looking down on a freaking plane as he did his thing. I'd be his wingman.....anytime.





430 miles. Onroad. The TKC's had become quieter and smoother, but that was sad.



Hit Libby, Montana, hooked up with Bryant. Spent the first night on a buddy's lawn after being treated royally by our host. There's something just heartwarming about fellow riders - took 4 us in, sight unseen, invited us to eat, drink, and lounge about the glorious firepit with family, treated like family. Free lawn space, good people. Thanks Jaymen and family.
We all were self sufficient as we all had different end times and back to reality responsibilities, hence 4 tents (That'd be a good band name!). Plus, Bryant's a spooner. :}



Up early in the am. Little dewy and chilly. The bikes were getting impatient...





Roosville bound. Followed along the shores of huge pristine Lake Koocanusa, tkc's humming along.



Stopped to fuel and grab a bite where 37 and 93 cross. Ran into 3 Canadian female bikers on cruisers - they said they do a girls' ride every year.

rolling hills and sunshine. Got close enough to see the Canadian border, then pulled around on a two lane and the trip officially began!








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Old 03-30-2015, 06:49 AM   #2
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Cut off the road for the first taste of dirt....

We were cruising along a tiny paved two lane - Graves Creek Road, when we thought we'd taken the wrong route. During the 180 on the banked narrow road, one of the top heavy bikes decided to take a nap. I hopped off to help, quickly righting the fallen beast. When I got back on my own steed, the bike wouldn't start. No fuel pump prime, nothing.

The sidestand switch is a known issue with the gs, so I quickly removed it from the circuit. Still nothing. Fuses looked good. Pulled off my charging/ gps additions, my fuel injection richener circuit, everything I could think of. Nothing. Stranded on day 1!!!. Most of the drivers stopped to see if they could help, but the best was an older guy who has a not inconsequential bike collection, his house was just up the road. He actually has an 1100 GS, and offered to cannibalize any parts we needed off it to get mine running. He drove back to his house and returned with the exact shop manual, helped us brainstorm for a while. Riders are good people.

2 hours later as I was pulling out my hair, JJ walked up and took a closer look at the the specific fuse. it had a HAIRLINE break. Old GS fuses have a weird tiny wire running over the top that makes breaks hard to see..
Random web image, but it shows the fuse wires well. These ALL got replaced with blades when I got home. As for the sidestand switch, I think it's probably been eaten by a random cow by now.



Replaced and it fired back up. ARRRGGHH!

OUR fellow rider had let us know a tiny brewpub just up the street would open at 3pm. OH yeas.

http://flatheadbeacon.com/2014/02/19...ts-its-stride/



The red trailer on fire is actually a separate business...a true wood fired pizza kitchen. Beers and pizza in the shade with working bikes.. A wonderful thing.
Our benefactor showed up and we talked about the cosmos and mid century expressionism....who am I kidding, we talked bikes the whole damn time.
he got his manual back, free beers and food. We made a new bud.



Having eaten our fill and had our limit of beers, we again hopped on the bikes to make some time after blowing most of the day. Undeterred, amidst calls of "Adventure!!!", we would see how far we could get. Beautiful paved paths winding through the forest awaited...





That eventually gave way to a network of fireroads.

Got a little lost, met a Border patrol agent out in the middle of nowhere. He knew the route, and offered to guide us to the right service road. I had misgivings about creeping along behind a government vehicle for miles, but this guy was moving. He obviously didn't pay out of pocket for gas or tires. In no time he'd pointed out the turnoff, gave a wave and off he went. A positive experience with a Border Patrol guy. Karma!! Adventure!!!

Real dirt, loose newbornheads dotted the road. Bit rough in places, but it was damn good to be moving along. BIG grin inside the helmet.

Stopped in a small valley where an avalanche from on high had swept up the other side like a wave, snapping trees effortlessly. Sobering. Still snow under the debris. But we're riding dirt in the SUN!

Jon Bowers submitted this extra cool moving panorama of the spot to Google...

Whitefish Divide Pass

https://www.google.com/maps/views/vi...tch=89&fovy=75



Happy bikes.






More fire roads, skirting the rolling hills. J-Lo on point. And yes, those do make your ass look fat.



Beginning to drift the rear a bit, having a little fun but still cognizant of preserving the rubber and not throwing up a dust cloud.



Great Roads, Great weather. Trip has begun. Amazing scenery as we ran along...









Something slightly ominous appears ahead...



Rode through this surreal burned out valley, undergrowth starting to reemerge, but getting darker ahead...











Bryant. Happy. And yes, that's a fly rod.



For a few miles, we got trapped between this...



Dark and Stormy...



and this...



Escaped dry though, we were matching it's speed then turned away from the front. Bit of a lightning show too.
Fire roads dry, no traffic, great scenery all around. Cruising. In the rhythm, dodging potholes, feeling part of the bike as you bank and slide a bit through the curves, enjoying changing gravity by getting light over rises, picking through the terrain. Damn I love riding!



Rolled up to and took a dust break next to this breathtaking tiny pristine lake at the summit. I think it's Red Meadow Lake...



Tough to keep eyes on the road...








then descended to make some time, headed for Whitefish for the night.



After the shenanigans of the morning, we barely made it to town before dark. Had a teenager in a scrapey farty civic almost head on us as he thought he'd use the WHOLE road around a tight uphill blind corner (left for him, right for me). BIG eyes as they passed by close.

Dark and TIRED. Unfortunate, because the Canadian biker girls had wanted us to hang out with them at their favorite bar in Whitefish (maybe no so unfortunate?). We grabbed rooms at our customary downtown delightfully sketchy motel, The Downtowner, dragged our gear up 3 flights, had our customary/ mandatory beer to celebrate "no wrecks, no tickets", grabbed some slightly singed cow at a nearby restaurant. Fresh Montana beef HAS to be experienced. Snoozeland.

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Old 03-30-2015, 11:39 AM   #3
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Yeah, I'm in. It's on the bucket list.
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Old 03-30-2015, 10:31 PM   #4
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Another shot of that amazing lake...



Awoke to a beautiful day. Daylight's wasting, and we got miles and miles to go. Scenery...





More trailfinding fun - got a bit lost here and there, but enjoyable none the less. Got to a spot on the trail that was "closed", meaning a 20 mile backtrack. I scouted ahead, found a rotting bridge. It'd be sketchy for a dually pickup, but just fine for a fat guy on an overloaded bike. I returned and we continued our adventure on the wrong side of the law. 1%eers!!!



I like this shot a lot...



We don't need no steenkin road..



I like this pic too...



Grassy. Doesn't take long for nature to start erasing...









Made it through a phalanx of rocks placed to block the trail on the other side (J-Lo had to temporarily lose a cheek to pass), heading for the distant saddle.



Over the pass, more trailfinding/gate crossing. There's just too many paths to take. All good though. No where else I'd rather be...



Bryant's tire a little low. I think we all had compressors, it was just a discussion as to whose was most accessable.



Singletrack goodness, threading together bits and pieces to wind our way along.



Getting tight on the big beast. Had my first drop around here - tight turn with a steep uphill. Did not have enough momentum, but damn, I'm on an 1100. I got powah!!!
Yeah. Spinning with the front light, I had to let off to negotiate the left at the top of the hill. This instantly killed my momentum, the front reweighted and hooked a root. I ate a little dirt but was able to upright the pig, roll backwards to the base again and get a proper run. No issues.
Post nap...





I think all of us but Bryant ended up horizontal on this short bit.

Multiple gates, blocked roads, and goat paths threatened to reroute us, but we were on an ADVENTURE!!!!



This almost stopped us. Big washout with large berms placed on both sides.



I took the idiot route - up and over, then spun and ground up the other side, my brave compatriots pushing. Bryant followed my line.

The other two had wisely scouted an alternate route







The bottom...loose babyheads and sand. Fun.



Looking back.. FU



But look at where we were. Scenic..







Me...



Bryant...



Sherpa John and J-Lo...



JJ..




Kept riding, The roads getting tighter and tighter again. John's multiple GPSes were fighting.....





Down to singletrack...



Soon came to a gut check spot, this washout was narrow and steep and in the middle of nowhere, it was a LONG way down, and not in an EWAN/Charlie way - glutes got a workout...





JJ took a pic looking down. - yep, that'd ruin your whole day...



But what a crazy amazing view....





My ugly mug ruining it...



More singletrack awaited....





Beating the bushes, yes, there is a trail and a fatass v-strom in the picture...



But it finally petered out to nothingness, guess it was the wrong way after all.
The turnaround...



Not a bad view down grizzly valley though...



So, we had to thread the needle on the "RUIN YOUR WHOLE DAY" washout again. Easier as it was a bit downhill, but still puckerinducing. After that, we decided to scoot down a fire road. Amazing scenery.

Burned some miles on the blacktop, as our lollygagging ( always wanted to use that word in prose ) has cost us time.

Hit up a roadside motel for the night. A cold beer never tastes so good as after a long dusty exhausting day. Goodnite.

Breakfast at "The Chicken Coop" Seeley Lake.





More playing in the dirt, beautiful roads, great weather. Bet Bryant wanted to pull out his rod at this little lake..





Fly rod people... wait that actually sounds a little worse.

Running along the valley floors between passes - spread out to allow the dust to conveniently be blown away by a 90 degree breeze...



Sun, sky, amazing colors and adventure awaiting.





Little washboardey in spots but not bad - if you go fast enough you just skip over the tops ;)



Making passes...



Get Lost!



Little roads winding through the forest...





Over the shoulder...



Fire lookout on the peak behind JJ...



The world at our feet...



All downhill from here. I like to turn off the motor to coast silently downhill, making a game of conserving momentum, using the brakes as little as possible. Bryant on the red KLR behind me was doing the same thing as we descended this beautiful mountainside. Overcooked both our rear brakes, though, had to let them cool by starting the bikes to allow engine braking to control our speed near the end. But, I had some time to take lots of pics...



Lights out, anyone home?



Going bald..



Not ready for your closeup...



Ready for closeup.



Rolling



Not enough horsepowers...





Curious?



Rolling hills...



I like this shot...



Stopped to give a mountainbiker couple some water, it let John get ahead and get a rare action shot of me...



Had to get the pic. Another CDR famous spot...





Food service hairnet/tankbag cover. I don't really need to wear a helmet.





More cruising...



The view was OK...



Stopped at a sketchy motel, had some sketchy food, drank some sketchy beer, listened to sketchy people doing sketchy things, got up in the am to ride some more. Lava Mountain here we come. Boy did we underestimate what we were in for....





Roads getting rougher.



and rougher...





So sad that pics don't show the steepness in reality - these look like a Sunday drive with grandma.





Visualize the line in your head....



We did a lot of this - get 1 bike through, then walk back and help push/pull/curse/laugh/grunt/and bellow the others. Advtouring is an aerobic sport..



Fully loaded GS is not an enduro - I was trying to get UP that, did an ungainly 180 and landed on my butt. Wet roots, 700lbs and uphill do not mix so well.



Way steeper than it looks...





Over the top...



Random shots - this was rough going...







I call it - Bike in Repose...



Wet grass has no more traction than wet dirt. We were passed by a mountainbiking couple right about here.



Passed. By Mountainbikers. Yeah.

But goddamnit - Adventure!!!!!



At about this point, we were all exhausted. The KLY and v-strom were slowly but surely cooking their clutches. We knew there wasn't much more trail ahead of us, and we had already come so far and battled so much. We really didn't want to backtrack. So we pushed on, knowing that it couldn't get worse as some parts were at the limit of what any vehicle could do. I was on point/scouting ahead when we crossed paths with a group of 4x4 winch equipped side by sides. They were pretty surprised to see a bunch of streetbikes bashing through their wilderness.

ONward!



The fun train has officially derailed. JJ's low hanging panniers were hooking his feet and chewing up his ankles - he was black and blue for days.



Arrived at a big puddle, unknown depth, but those UTV's had to have made it through, right? Damn the torpedoes - I'm going through!

I made it unscathed and reasonably dry. The other more intelligent pack members realized that if they just levered up the tree trunk creating the puddle, it'd be about a foot or so less water to ford...



Bubbles! Check out the prior waterline. Even the camera lens is fogging.



You can see the tree trunk here...



All she's got - steep rocky loose off camber. I could not make the pig move in a forward direction. Next time we bring a winch.





As always, the steepinincity is reduced by the camera, but channel John Lennon and imagine. This shot helps...



Minor assorted carnage...



Was pretty when we stopped to breathe, though...



Even little puddles were littered with handsy roots...





Hit the top of the mountain. We'd been fighting all day, physically yanking the beasts along. Way over the capabilities of the bikes. Exhausted, getting dark, and we didn't know how much farther we had to go. The strom would not move forward with it's hot clutch after all the abuse, so we decided to camp on the top of the mountain. We pulled out our gear, set up, then hiked away to cook/eat/throw up a bear bag, as I had to kick the bear scat away to get a spot big enough to set the tent. This little alternate section had handed us our asses. Goodnight...


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Old 03-31-2015, 05:32 AM   #5
GB
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That's quite the adventure on such a huge bike!

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Old 03-31-2015, 05:51 AM   #6
out rider
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Looks like you're into it
deep now, nothing to do but push on. Post away...
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Old 03-31-2015, 06:06 AM   #7
bigdon
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Great start and pictures!
I would vote for bigger pictures.
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Old 03-31-2015, 01:15 PM   #8
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Looking good...

Smiles all around- sign of a great ride!


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Old 03-31-2015, 04:13 PM   #9
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Great trip! Looks like you guys had a blast. Nice pix.
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Old 03-31-2015, 08:56 PM   #10
Cyemm OP
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Woke with all limbs still attached...





which was good, but they all were aching. We'd hiked down the trail the night before, and there was only about a mile of rough stuff left until we hit a graded doubletrack. Unfortunately, what goes up must come down, so we faced a washed out, fall line descent punctuated by trees and large rocks. Pretty ridiculously steep.

As always the camera is a lying beeyatch...






I was feeling manly that morning, and decided to ride down the thing, much to the concern of all.



But by leaving the motor off and using the clutch to modulate the rear, I was able to remain in control even when paddling along. Whew. I brought a klr down the same way, but it's clutch was protesting and wouldn't lock up the back wheel. John's vstrom, well, the clutch was nearly toast, so....

Two of us had brought rope, so we set up a belay system. With John on belay, we rappelled the remaining two bikes down the wash, 100 feet at a time. No pics, but who hasn't already seen a fully loaded vstrom dangling from a tree trunk?

Got to the bottom unscathed, only 1/2 mile of trail left...

Johns skid plate earned it's keep...



Slippery roots and soft sand, just to add to the fun...













SO happy to be on a road again!!!! 7 miles took us 2 days to do. I did the math, and I think one of the puddles must have been a cold mud time machine.



Lava mountain is NO joke.

Too bad there wasn't a sign like this at our end of the trail...





We all repacked and reloaded (the last miles were a Groundhogian nightmare of unpacking, pushing, carrying luggage, going back, reloading, etc. etc). Got rolling again, only to watch the wee strom slow, then stop on a mild uphill. Clutch well and truly toast. No forward motion possible.



I had visions of doing a field expedient resurfacing, but the whole side cover comes off, and we were carrying no oil. Crap.

We had to go find help. John hops on....



I had no passenger seat, he was sitting on the flat plastic tray. OW. The man has buns of steel.

Got to the graded road leading to pavement. The rear felt weird, and not just because I had another guy on the back...

Wellthursyerproblem...



Missing 1 entirely, the others were loose enough that the entire wheel was wobbling side to side. Thankfully I was carrying about 30lb of tools. 3's all you need, right?



Rolled to Butte. Found a shop. They graciously loaned us a ramp, then we went and rented a 4X4 pickup truck. Probably not in the rental agreement...



Got back to the shop, where the owner Matt and his lovely wife dropped everything and fixed both the clutch on the vstrom (completely shot) and the klr (2 plates toast). We hung out for 2 days, awaiting parts. All good though, it was raining a steady drizzle most of those days.



Finally fixed...



Huge shout out to Matt Krsul's Two Wheelzs in Butte Montana. Stand up guy. Thanks buddy.

He had a toy WAY more suited to the level of stupid we just experienced...



Ok, all better. Wounds licked, ready to roll.
On the road again...









Want your KLR to wheelie effortlessly?...



Is pretty yes?

Burning miles...










Scaring the wildlife - me...







Peebreak...



WTF?



Just happy to see us.



Chasing the sunset...





Did some freeway droning to make up lost time, ended up at a little riverside cabin just past dark in Steamboat springs. The next morning...











Continued on pavement for a while to get back the time we lost stuck in Lava.
Pretty colors...





More beautiful scenery...





Kamikaze bird tried to take out John's rad around here. Feathers lost.



Ski runs. Everywhere.



Aspensssss





But I don't wanna get wet...



Making passes...





Love it when cars actually use the pullouts...







Getting wet and cold...





Poor biker - yes, thats sleet...



But beautiful again off the mountain.







Wide open country - the scale is huge.







Mine Mine Mine. But they wouldn't let me stop ;(





Making the cut...



Up and over - Wolf creek...



Sherpa shepherd...



This truck dropped a 2-3 foot long bolt, it came bouncing back at us without any warning. Careful out there guys.











Landed in the little speed trap town of Pagosa Springs, got some snooze time in near the sulphurous river after being shown around the town by yet another friend of a friend. Thanks Kevin.



Good night, Westley. Good work. Sleep well. I'll most likely kill you in the morning.

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Old 03-31-2015, 09:22 PM   #11
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Very nice! Looking forward to the rest.
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Old 04-01-2015, 12:35 AM   #12
Cyemm OP
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Continuing south,

we took a mix of asphalt and dirt, still trying to make up the deficit in time yet still make it to Mexico. Burning miles...

Pretty little reservoir..



I love dirt...



Dirty dirty dirt...











ANNND - we're lost.



Back on the slab....

big spaces, no places...






Back to dirt.





A damn dam...









kicked the tires, lit the fires - spread out for some high speed action...







Back to pavement for the last long push to the border.... Whole lotta nothin going on...

Nipple mountain held my attention for a little while...





Then the technicolor soil strata...









Into Albequerque...



On to Elephant Butt. (snort)





It's hot in an Elephant Butte...



Wish it was Tauntaun butt, then it'd just keep Luke warm.










Luke warm I said.











crickets.











Someones a genius...



More long straight running. Wake me up if I drift into the other lane, OK?





Finally made it.
None of us wanted to run the few more miles to the border proper, so we chilled out at the hotel, which coincidentally had in it's lobby the only bar in town. Nice.

Got up the next morning, we all had different paths home.

Got a loose housekeeper to take a pic....

The CREW.



Great riding with you, boys.

John and JJ headed west, to run home to Seattle along the coast. Guess it was hot...




Bryant ran north, home to Colorado.

Since I had a week to get home, I decided to run the trail in reverse, solo, hopefully tagging many of the spots we'd missed due to the time suck of Lava Mountain.

An idiot alone, coming up.

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Old 04-01-2015, 12:56 AM   #13
rtwpaul
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bring it on...with bigger photos
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Old 04-01-2015, 10:00 AM   #14
docwyte
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I'm in!
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Old 04-04-2015, 08:18 AM   #15
goldo
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I'm in!

Looking forward to your travels. I'm planning on doing the CDR this summer myself. So make it look easy :)
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