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Old 10-30-2012, 05:28 AM   #3796
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Waiting patiently.
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Old 10-30-2012, 05:40 AM   #3797
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Ditto!
Ditto
Ditto
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Old 10-30-2012, 10:45 AM   #3798
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Can't wait for the Salar pictures! Hope you get some good shots from there.
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Old 10-31-2012, 12:09 PM   #3799
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Glad you checked in Mark.......thought we gonna have to send out a search party.......there are lots of us who would like to go off in search of you.
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Old 11-01-2012, 09:33 PM   #3800
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OK Mark, your kinda out of your norm, your one of the most timely people I know of to stayed tuned in, so I hope all is well, and just a lack of internet

Beside someone needed to bump this back up to page 1
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Old 11-02-2012, 07:57 AM   #3801
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La Paz to the "Road of Death"

Finally sitting in a cafe in Sucre, Bolivia and have a decent internet connection Time to get updated on the past 10 days of my time in Bolivia.

I am always amazed at how much people carry on there backs. La Paz is at 12,000 feet or so. Look at this load. WOW.



We spent another day checking out La Paz. It is a big city and had lots to see on foot.







we walked by a Kansas City BBQ. Jill is from KS. Had to take the photo. Too bad it was not open yet!!



La Paz is on a large valley, spread on top, and both sides. about 2 million people.





They carry lots of goods like this......



Our last stop in town was a visit to the Coca Museum. Was interesting reading the history of the local use of Coca Leaves as a "chew" that had good effects for helping oxygenate the blood at high altitude, and provide energy. Then the uses in pharmaceuticals, and then in Coca Cola, then the UN ban on Coca and use of Cocaine ....



Was warned the Gas would be an issue in Bolivia on two counts. 1) finding stations that would sell it to you (even at 2-3 times the listed price ) 2) that the quality and octane was very low. So I stocked up on some Octane boost. Will talk more on Gas availability in a bit.



As we leave La Paz we will be heading here ..........



All packed up in the lobby before heading out.



Like all big cities.... you have to get through the traffic to get out of town. Sometimes it is really hard to find the best route out. GPS worked OK to get us out of town.



At the edge of town headed for Coroico, had to stop at Police stop. They wanted to see my license.



On the right road headed up higher into the mountains....



Mike needed to adjust his carb's as the fuel mixture was causing him problems....



Back into the higher altitudes ....... My bike is running great with just minimal power loss. Amazing riding at this high altitude for days on end. Nothing in the US like this kind of altitude on any road.



Over the pass, and then we ride down this cool valley. Photos do not do it justice.



Remember we are 14-15 K and the hills around are much higher!!



Another control point, but we are waved through...



We stopped for fuel at a small spot near the entrance to "road of death" sort of filling up at every chance, and have 3 extra gallons as well. Since we do not know if we can get gas and where they are..... They charged us 2.5 times listed price. Hard to know all the factors, but we were told that because of past supply shortages and visitors from neighboring countries looking for cheaper gas, they had rules that foreigners pay more or some stations cannot sell it.



The starting point for the "Road of Death". It got its name because 25-30 people a year used to go over the edge when it was the only road. Now the other paved hwy goes on the other side of the valley so this road is primarily used by Mountain bike tour companies touting it's name and danger!



Here is a glimpse looking from the top. It is about 30 miles or so down to Coroico.



Been planning on this road since the start of my trip. But I also know there are many roads that have the same or more exposure. This one has the name.



It is hard to capture the exposure of 1500-2000 feet straight down. If you go wide or lose control off you go.





Jill took this photo which sort of shows the reality!





It just keeps heading down the valley....



Sitting on the edge...



Was a fun ride!!



Some of the mountain bikers.



One girl had dumped her bike as we went around.... They all get a shirt that says they survived the "road or death" Bolivia.



Once down into the bottom, you arrive at Coroico. a cool little town.



Up to the hostel.





My buddy Hector had ridden this and told us about a nice hostel. Hostal Sol Y Luna





Location: S16 11.891 W67 43.430

Bike parking near the reception. Another big bike owned by Peter from Eastern Europe who is touring South America.

I paid 120 Bolivianos ($17.90 USD for a big room with Bathroom) Best bed I have slept on for the entire trip!!



You ride up the hill and through the lush semi tropical area to arrive at a little Oasis in the hills.



It is friendly, has good WIFI and great views. Is a place you could stay a few days!!



and of course a place to smell the flowers







Was a great day riding out into the rural area of Bolivia!
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Old 11-02-2012, 08:41 AM   #3802
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Riding The Yungas area

The Yungas is the area that Coroico is located. It is a semi tropical area it huge valleys that separate villages. It is about 180 Miles of gravel, rocky roads that go up and down from 9,000 feet to 4,000 feet. it is a 2-3 day ride depending ..... No need to rush.

We started the day having breakfast in town. We parked in front of the Majors office :) but were asked to move ..... We did with a smile.



Then we headed south on some beautifully scenic roads... toward Chullimani, Bolivia. the large road to the left is the "death road" bypass, the small road to left is death road.





Overlooking the valley below.



Road was gravel, fine dust, rocky etc. Switchbacking up and down the hills and valleys.



I think in Chullimani, Mike and Jill Loaded up on some Coca leaves, and an older couple come up to talk. The have a daughter in LA that they will be visiting soon.



They were very friendly and kind!! It has been an interesting time with people in Bolivia. We have had about 50 /50 with people very friendly and warm and others not so nice as I will talk about a bit later on. The extremes are interesting.

Mike and Jill with a fresh supply of coca leaves and some additives....



The colorful local folks walking by.



Through the paved part of town. Mikes Mapset and GPS were better at getting as onto the right roads.



Was really hard to capture the sense of the vastness and beauty of this area. Trust me it was awesome. Some of the roads had all the exposure of the death road, which is why you read that there are many of these types of roads in Bolivia.





Beautiful



Not for the faint of heart!





We stopped in a small town for lunch. The best option is the Menu de dia. It was 15 Bolivianos ($2.18 USD) for Soup, Main dish of usually chicken or thin beef grilled + rice, Potato and or Banana's.

The soups are very good, but always have a big piece of ??? as a surprise!



Every once in a while a sign. we were shooting to ride to Cajuata to find a plac eto stay for the night.



Down the dusty roads we ride.....



Was really great to be riding with Mike and Jill. Mike speaks good spanish. which helps in finding directions and figuring out options. Plus it really has made this part fo my journey great sharing it with these two adventurous travelers!! Thanks you two!!





The roads just keep climbing the hills or switchbacking us to the bottom to cross over the rivers and up the other sides.





Stopping to enjoy the views!







Stopping to ask directions.... Yes carry on. The road got real rocky as it headed down in this valley. Was wondering if we are on the right "road" but it hooked back up to another road later on that seemed right.







This is coca growing country. We saw lots of crops terraced up the hills, and also drying along the road.



The roads just kept going .........



Changing textures and road composites around each bend.





In through another town at the bottom of a hill, then back up into remote areas.





every once in awhile we would pass a bus along these dirt roads.



We arrived in Cajuata around 5:30. The only hostel in town was full, as there was a big festival the next day. Fortunately for Mikes spanish, the lovely manager Marta said we could stay in the large store room if we wanted for 25 Bolvianos (3.65 USD). She then found a bed for me in a shared room upstairs, while Mike and Jill stayed in storage room!



After a long days ride, I headed to the local store for some water, Beer and snacks.



lots of bulk pasta and grains for sale.





Mike and Jill, Sitting out from enjoying the rest.



The local kids joined us sitting outside ....



As there was a TV set up outside for everyone to watch. Of course the kids had questions about our bikes, travels etc. Working on my spanish, and Mike jumping in to help translate as the questions grew! Great night in a small town!



A view down on our bikes, and kids watching TV



In the morning our bikes were still there....



Marta the Manager was really nice, as she let us use her shower and bathroom instead of the "rustic" ones for the other guests.

In the morning she offered us coffee and breakfast. Fresh eggs!



The kitchen



Marta and another lady cooking breakfast.



Chickens coming to check out what was going on and looking for food.



Mike and Jill enjoying breakfast.



Nice view out over the surrounding area.



With our gracious host!





Turning bikes around.



Then a ride right through the main street that was in full festival swing. Lots of funny looks riding big bikes through the cross. Thanks Jill for the photos!





Then back on the road in the morning headed for Quime.



Some nice little water crossings.



The terrain keeps changing.





Rode into another small town. Kids were playing. They looked like they were having a great time rolling old Moto tires up and down the road!



Just another day riding the roads in The Yungas!



We are at the top of one hill, and you can see the switchbacks on the other side of the hill. Down 3,000 feet, then up 3,000 feet!



Kind of sandy uphills.









Really spectacular views.





More roads cutting across the sheer rock faces.



riding the dusty roads!



Then we arrived to Quime. Has a nice little square.





found a hotel in town with Parking. Single room was 100 Bolivianos ($14.60 USD)


They had a monkey tethered to the garage door....



It liked Jill.



But as i approached.... Not so much!



Tried to find internet ..... at the local Library. But no Wifi so it kept me from updating my ride report.



Always interesting sights like this "manhole cover"



The typical Bolivian Woman with her Bowler hat on. Not sure how they keep them on in the wind?



and the local color selling all kinds of goods on the street.



Including bulk eggs! None of the eggs get refrigeration at all.



Another great day riding in the Yungas.
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Old 11-02-2012, 09:13 AM   #3803
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Great update !!
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Old 11-02-2012, 09:59 AM   #3804
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Great update !!
Hola Pablo! lots more to come. Finally got photos uploaded to smugmug and now trying to get updated.
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Old 11-02-2012, 10:48 AM   #3805
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I am really enjoying your ride report from chilly Chicago and making some notes for my trip continuation next month.

Two questions: Where did you locate your GPS mapping (My SA Maps from Garmin don't have detail for Bolivia) and how long does Peru give on you TVIP and do they put any information about your moto in your passport?

Ride safe, bro!
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Old 11-02-2012, 11:58 AM   #3806
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Originally Posted by Radioman View Post

We are at the top of one hill, and you can see the switchbacks on the other side of the hill. Down 3,000 feet, then up 3,000 feet!


Amazing updates and photos! Looks like a great area and a really fun trip. That view of the switchbacks is awesome!
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Old 11-02-2012, 01:25 PM   #3807
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Originally Posted by Parcero View Post
I am really enjoying your ride report from chilly Chicago and making some notes for my trip continuation next month.

Two questions: Where did you locate your GPS mapping (My SA Maps from Garmin don't have detail for Bolivia) and how long does Peru give on you TVIP and do they put any information about your moto in your passport?

Ride safe, bro!
Hola Amigo. I am using an Open source Maps as Garmin maps suck for Peru and Bolivia. I can send them to you :)

Peru was 90 import and I cannot tell if it is in my passport......
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Old 11-02-2012, 01:27 PM   #3808
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Thank you so much for warming my afternoon .
iDave and Julie. Like many others I have always enjoyed your Ride Reports and the insights that you bring.

Having a bit of lunch and about to write another update. Stay tuned
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Old 11-02-2012, 01:39 PM   #3809
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A couple random shots that I forgot. Riding the dusty roads makes you breathe lots of dust



One section of rode before we arrived in Cajuata was down in a valley and had this amazing smell. We think it was the ripening Mangos..... But it was a great addition to the ride as all the senses were involved! And as we passed through this area it was labels Afro Bolovian as the folks that live here are black. The trucks have people hanging all over the tops of them!



And in some places we encountered large loaded trucks that we needed to squeeze by.

http://radioman.smugmug.com/Motorcyc...DSC01292-L.jpg
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Old 11-02-2012, 01:59 PM   #3810
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Quime to Challapata last of the Yungas

As we headed out of Quime we are at about 10,000 Feet, but going over another pass then back to the Altoplano.

It is a beautiful mountain road that heads up the valley.





We cross the pass at 15,501 Feet (4724 meters)



Just before the top, Mike and Jills bike needs another adjustment. He had blown out his air filter in Quime, but it was still very dirty. His 89, transalp is in need of a new one, but they cannot be found here. He has one coming with a friend soon, but needs to make due right now.



The scenery changes as we head over the pass.





Then we make it back to the paved road that heads south through Oruro.



We stop for Gas. Mike attracts some interesting characters. Like this guy who keeps trying to get Mike to have a beer, before he starts offering me.... Never like dealing with drunks. Fortunately he was friendly and it did not change.





While getting gas they end of making two bills for us, wanting our names, passport number for the transaction. The one receipt is for the normal price, the second is the Gringo tax.



We roll on down the road toward Challapata. There is some strong winds and slight rain as a big storm is just east of us. Lots of lightening .... so we decide that we will not ride on to Potosi via the pavement but will stay here and ride the "direct" route down to Uyuni in the morning chopping off 125 miles of riding.

We found a hotel in town. The people were friendly and we parked the bikes in the restaurant below the hotel. Nothing too special but probably the best place in town





We walked in town looking for an internet connection and some dinner. No WiFI in the town at all, so I am off the grid again

As we walked through the town a guy in a truck slowed down, catch my eye and then flipped me off It is the strangeness of Bolivia that is strongly divided. Not sure why..... but did not feel very welcoming. But has been part of my experience in Bolivia.

With great expectations we are just 4 hours ride from Uyuni and the Salar de Uyuni. It was over a year ago, that I sat with IdahoSam in Skip and Cathy's dining room talking about riding the Salar. Cathy put "Hello Kitty" on Sam's bike with a charge to get her to the Salar in Bolivia....... When we parted in Belize, Sam transfered "hello Kitty" to my bike for the rest of the journey. I am almost here! most of a year, and 12,000 miles riding to get here! Cool!
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