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05-22-2011, 09:53 PM
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#16 |
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XSessive!
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Cool pictures.
Regarding rechroming, that was not my intention, it is way expensive, compared to the value of the bike. It was just to get an easy paintable surface :) |
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05-22-2011, 10:51 PM
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#17 |
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Melbourne, Australia.
Oddometer: 922
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very cool and bizarre looking bike
![]() ![]() ![]() Subscribed. if you are just planning on painting the exhaust, sandblasting would probably be fine, but also, a good option to consider would be to use electrolysis to de-rust the thing. If you haven't done it before it is very easy and cheap to set up and IMO is thoroughly worthwhile, fun and satisfying thing to do anyway, and once you have set it up it becomes useful for all manner of things. (a bit of googling should reveal the process, or just ask) When chrome has been pitted that badly then a lot of the dubious stuff will simply bubble off right back to steel with the electrolysis process. After that point I would probably just give it a good wire wheel (to remove any loose chrome that has 'detached' from the electrolysis but has not bubbled off) and then I would just give it a good amount of tooth by sanding with random orbital (and by hand if required) with 80-120 grit. Then some rattle can ceramic header paint. All this for me would be to keep it easy and keep it cheap. Good luck, |
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05-22-2011, 10:58 PM
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#18 |
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ROCKS ARE YOUR FRIENDS...
Joined: Nov 2004
Location: USA
Oddometer: 4,115
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![]() VERY COOL. I think you can get laid with that bike. Just find a art major... |
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05-22-2011, 11:40 PM
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#19 | |
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Studly Adventurer
Joined: Jan 2011
Location: Summer: Kemiö, Finland; Winter: North Germany
Oddometer: 641
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Quote:
Then I would personal would first let the parts soak in WD40, then polish the chrome parts and leave the patina as it is. In use I would do a weekly maintaince with old fashion weapon oil like "Ballistol". By the way very cool bike, I like these front rocker bikes and watch out for thight curves while riding, it will be a little dark |
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05-23-2011, 12:36 AM
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#20 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: May 2010
Location: Australia
Oddometer: 193
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Love it, cool bike
![]() No one can accuse you of following the "in" crowd!
__________________
![]() Orange L0 650 V-Strom |
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05-23-2011, 12:46 AM
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#21 |
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XSessive!
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Will try and soak the parts in WD40, or something like that, then strip most of the chromed parts of the paint.
Would like to hear more about the electrolysis, is it something that you have tried? |
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05-23-2011, 01:10 AM
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#22 |
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…
Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Melbourne, Australia.
Oddometer: 922
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yeah, I've been using electrolysis for years, I love it.
if you have a bit of patience, here is a write-up on the procedure that goes into a little of technical detail of what is happening- it is focused on tool restoration, but you can ignore that, http://www.htpaa.org.au/article-electro.php basically you need a battery charger, a large plastic tub, some washing soda (bath salts, sodium carbonate), some scrap steel, and you are ready to go. Gotta run now (time to cook dinner), but feel free ask questions if you want. |
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05-23-2011, 02:53 AM
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#23 | |
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XSessive!
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Quote:
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05-23-2011, 03:10 AM
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#24 |
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Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Melbourne, Australia.
Oddometer: 922
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The paint doesn't need to be removed... so long as you don't mind the paint being removed
![]() Just chuck it in there. I actually use it deliberately to help remove paint on things I want to repaint. It won't removed it all, but it does pretty well on some paints. what I'm saying is that the process has the tendency to remove paint, just as it can sometimes remove a bit of chrome. Now it is not as simple as this- if the chrome or paint is in great condition and there is no rust pitting or damage then I have found it is unlikely to be removed (but you woulndn't want to bank on it). I'll send you another link by PM. |
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05-23-2011, 03:59 AM
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#25 |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Mar 2007
Location: WNC SWFL
Oddometer: 2,402
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I would leave it as is and just concentrate on getting it running properly.
__________________
Vince @ SWFL or WNC 2001 Kawasaki W650 2012 Ural Yamal |
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05-23-2011, 05:01 AM
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#26 | ||
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Studly Adventurer
Joined: Jan 2011
Location: Summer: Kemiö, Finland; Winter: North Germany
Oddometer: 641
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Quote:
Quote:
here in northern Germany is OTR Oberflächentechnik Gmbh not too far away from you, http://www.otr-gmbh.de. Normal electroplating is cheap, (Zinc plating and then colred in blue = silver, yellow or black costs about 1,50 a kg of screws and bolts without tax! Maximum load is 31 kg! Not worth the hassle and the extra cost you will have to get rid of the chemical stuff again. Chroming is something different, the plated surfaces have to be perfect, then they will be cleaned again, then a layer of copper and then first a layer of chrome after the treatment follows the polishing, therefor very expensive. If you give the guys of OTR any parts with paint they will charge you extra! The only part I would always rechrome are stanchions if they are bend, show corrosion and are not available as spares anymore. But you don't have any on your model. Align and hardchrome the stanchions is about three times as expensive an normal chrome, cost per fork stanchion pair around 220,00 € without tax in Germany http://www.wissinghartchrom.de, in technical matter worth the money. As already stated I personal would first clean up every part, get rid of any technical issue and then reassamble the bike, I think this will show best result for this type of motorcycle. |
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05-23-2011, 06:16 AM
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#27 | |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Jun 2008
Location: morgantown, wv
Oddometer: 1,638
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Quote:
patina can be a good thing.
__________________
current bikes 07 gasgas xc300-94 duc 900ss-86 morini camel (2)-84 IT200-83 IT175-78 guzzi lm1-77 pursang 250-76 morini 3 1/2 strada-76 frankentaco pursang 200-74 frankentaco pursang 200-74 morini 3 1/2 sport-74 mz ts250/0-74 puch 175 (3)-73 can-am 175tnt-71 guzzi frankeneldo-71 ossa Stiletto-70 frankentaco sherpa s(2)-66 morini corsarino(2)-63 morini corsaro + many more |
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05-23-2011, 06:53 AM
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#28 |
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Gnarly Adventurer
Joined: Dec 2009
Location: Lively,Texas: 50 mi. S.E. of Dallas
Oddometer: 212
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If you want it to be the most looked at bike any time you stop, DO NOT TOUCH IT!!!!!!!!!!!
Fix the mechanicals but leave the outside alone. Set it next to a 20,000 euro bike and everyone will be looking at your ride. Great Bike!!!!!!!!!!!!.....Al |
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05-23-2011, 07:24 AM
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#29 |
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Warped & Twisted Mind
Joined: Jun 2008
Location: Arlington, TX
Oddometer: 713
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LaB die MZ wie sie ist!
Wie schon viele gesagt haben "laB die MZ wie sie ist". Mechanisch bring sie auf SchuB und dann hab spaB mit ihr. Einer der Insassen hier hat recht, wenn deine MZ neben einer neuen Maschiene steht wird die neue Maschiene kaum auffallen.
Mechanisch auf SchuB bringen, mit WD-40 reinigen und einmal im Monat nachpolieren mit WD-40. Auserdem, mit der MZ wirst du die "wilden" Weiber finden nicht die altaeglichen!
__________________
2012 H-D Nightrod, 2005 H-D FXDC-I, 1999 Jeep Sahara, 1998 H-D XL1200S, 1973 Honda CL350 K5, 1971 BMW R60/5 ![]() |
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05-23-2011, 07:28 AM
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#30 |
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XSessive!
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I am not going to do anything major if that is what you got the impression of :)
But the rearshocks are actually from the front, so it sits higher, which again makes the chain rub on the engine. I want to correct that. Also, it's funny to try new stuff. My priorities is ofcourse to get it running good, then a centerstand and then new tyres before I go to the vehicle inspection. |
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