New bike, most unrational trade ever. - Page 5

LasseNC · 06-22-2011, 07:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by welder

Thats a great looking tank err I mean headlight

I say cafe it.

Hah, never going to happen! :)

Made another one today!

This one is for driving in the crankshaft seals.

LasseNC · 06-22-2011, 02:05 PM

Everyone has advised me to keep the patina, but I have an itch for sand/glassblasting something, or just doing some kind of resto work.

Something suttle, ideas? Got some scotchbrite for the exhaust, which I am trying out tomorrow!

BrokenR80RT · 06-22-2011, 08:04 PM

If you can get Blu-Job try it on the exhaust it'll work pretty good. I used a polishing rag with a profile sander from my woodshop and made easy of cleaning my exhaust crossover pipes. The blue job eliminated the rust....still watching it after the work. Blu-Job works on all chrome quite good.

'Nother thing I'd do is get some big tire/rim and fill that front hole (fender) up

! That'll turn heads.

Use mag wheel cleaner for your engine shocks and hubs...Should leave it clean, but still kristina'd quite nice. Spray it it with WD40 when your done. Keep scotchbrite away from any areas of the engine where brite dust can get inside of the engine. The heck with blasting. It's messy and dangerous if you don't get it clean. Get it running, run it as hard as you can and check compression before planning any engine work. You may be lucky like me.

A sheep skin seat cover, paint the rims. Yer good to go.

Low Budget · 06-23-2011, 04:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LasseNC

Everyone has advised me to keep the patina, but I have an itch for sand/glassblasting something, or just doing some kind of resto work.

Something suttle, ideas? Got some scotchbrite for the exhaust, which I am trying out tomorrow!

Dont say we didnt warn ya !!!!

One thing leads to another, before you know it you ruin and basturdize a rare bike that HAD stellar patina !

ivara · 06-23-2011, 05:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ivantheterrible

why is it that Communism = ugly?

I've wondered about that myself. The east bloc way of designing things often remind me of the "brutalist style" - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brutalist_architecture
(very fitting name though)

LasseNC · 06-23-2011, 07:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrokenR80RT

If you can get Blu-Job try it on the exhaust it'll work pretty good. I used a polishing rag with a profile sander from my woodshop and made easy of cleaning my exhaust crossover pipes. The blue job eliminated the rust....still watching it after the work. Blu-Job works on all chrome quite good.

'Nother thing I'd do is get some big tire/rim and fill that front hole (fender) up

! That'll turn heads.

Use mag wheel cleaner for your engine shocks and hubs...Should leave it clean, but still kristina'd quite nice. Spray it it with WD40 when your done. Keep scotchbrite away from any areas of the engine where brite dust can get inside of the engine. The heck with blasting. It's messy and dangerous if you don't get it clean. Get it running, run it as hard as you can and check compression before planning any engine work. You may be lucky like me.

A sheep skin seat cover, paint the rims. Yer good to go.

Haven't seen that name around. Usually we can't get the same stuff as you guys. But today I tried with a scotchbrite pad and WOW. It's in high regards on this forum and I see why now.

Using it dry gave small abrassive marks, but with water/spit, that disappeared.

Exhaust before:

Exhaust after:

Front shock, after.

jitterymonkey · 06-25-2011, 06:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Low Budget

Dont say we didnt warn ya !!!!

One thing leads to another, before you know it you ruin and basturdize a rare bike that HAD stellar patina !

Amen to that. Get her running true & leave the Patina.
It's your bike, do what Ya want. But she's a sweet ol' girl just as she is.

Renegade_Azzy · 06-25-2011, 12:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ivara

I've wondered about that myself. The east bloc way of designing things often remind me of the "brutalist style" - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brutalist_architecture
(very fitting name though)

Might have had soemthing to do with shooting all the artists after tehy were no longer usefull or unwilling to dig roads. Kinda saps that creative will right out of you, or you focus it towards building things that wil get you the heck out of there.

twostroke312 · 06-25-2011, 12:57 PM

That thing is AWESOME.

PSchrauber · 06-25-2011, 01:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LasseNC

Haven't seen that name around. Usually we can't get the same stuff as you guys. But today I tried with a scotchbrite pad and WOW. It's in high regards on this forum and I see why now.

Using it dry gave small abrassive marks, but with water/spit, that disappeared.

Exhaust before:

Exhaust after:

Front shock, after.

This is completly OK in my eyes, you can leave it now as it is, wich will cause some extra maintaince befor and after riding where you now should
wipe the surfaces with oil to protect the bare steel metal. Other method is to use some silver paint, (heat resistant for the exhaust), pure it in a small can only some ml, (lets say around 100ml), and wait until the paint thickens, (you will have to stir the paint so there will not be arise a skin on top.

Then take a rag and pure it in the paint, now wipe the chromed parts with the paint saturated rag. The paint will fill the "gaps" where the chrome is gone and protect the bare metal.

Wait until the paint has dryed now you can polish the chrome up again if there is some paint on the chrome surface left and done.

The "painted" gaps will very quick fill up with some dirt, oil, ... which will look even better. Best thing is you have stopped the corrosion but left the patina.

Lornce · 06-25-2011, 06:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ivantheterrible

that is awesome! why is it that Communism = ugly?

LasseNC · 06-26-2011, 05:59 AM

Schrauber, that sounds interesting, I might look in to that! It does have alot of patina, I'm just a sucker for original paint jobs :)

Especially this one, which mine was born with.

LasseNC · 08-07-2011, 07:35 AM

I've bought a spare frame, because the old one had been welded on at the centerstand, so that I couldn't mount it.

The new frame is also from a 250ccm version, they are the same in dimensions, but the papers are different, so I can legally use the bigger engine fitted to the bike. Yesterday I took out the engine, which was a pretty simple job, so now it is ready for an overhaul.

Going for the blue colour I think.

LasseNC · 08-13-2011, 07:48 AM

Ok, I went for black.

Today I tore the bike into pieces, still haven't got the swingarm axles out, they're pretty stuck. I have no heat and a tiny hammer.

But for now it's only the frame being painted, that way I can restore as I go. So the rest of the bike is now dragged up on theh first floor of my appartment, where I will be storing it untill I recieve the frame back. It will be powdercoating, I don't know if it is a finish I will be satishfied with, but we will see.

So I've started to clean up the wiring, it's not too bad though. The original sleeves are quite hardened, so I will try get some bigger heatshrink.

As far as money go, I have far less than I thought, but it shouldn't be a problem.

LasseNC · 08-23-2011, 11:26 AM

Expecting to get the frame, front fork carrier and swingarms back on sunday!

I blasted an aluminium rim I had with a fine media, with the intention of polishing it up on a large polising wheel. It wouldn't take too long to do.

But I'm also thinking of painting the rim and hub. But powder, conventional or rattlecan it?

I'm thinking if powder chips, that it might not be the best thing for the wheel and hub.

What do you reckon?

06-22-2011, 08:04 PM	#63
BrokenR80RT But I'll fix it. Joined: Oct 2010 Location: Michitucky Oddometer: 157	Blu-Job - Cool Machine BTW If you can get Blu-Job try it on the exhaust it'll work pretty good. I used a polishing rag with a profile sander from my woodshop and made easy of cleaning my exhaust crossover pipes. The blue job eliminated the rust....still watching it after the work. Blu-Job works on all chrome quite good. 'Nother thing I'd do is get some big tire/rim and fill that front hole (fender) up! That'll turn heads. Use mag wheel cleaner for your engine shocks and hubs...Should leave it clean, but still kristina'd quite nice. Spray it it with WD40 when your done. Keep scotchbrite away from any areas of the engine where brite dust can get inside of the engine. The heck with blasting. It's messy and dangerous if you don't get it clean. Get it running, run it as hard as you can and check compression before planning any engine work. You may be lucky like me. A sheep skin seat cover, paint the rims. Yer good to go. BrokenR80RT screwed with this post 06-22-2011 at 08:10 PM

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06-22-2011, 02:05 PM	#62
LasseNC ^OP XSessive! Joined: Jan 2008 Location: Denmark, Danimarka, Danmark, Dänemark Oddometer: 949	Everyone has advised me to keep the patina, but I have an itch for sand/glassblasting something, or just doing some kind of resto work. Something suttle, ideas? Got some scotchbrite for the exhaust, which I am trying out tomorrow!

06-25-2011, 12:57 PM	#69
twostroke312 Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Jul 2008 Oddometer: 120	That thing is AWESOME.

06-26-2011, 05:59 AM	#72
LasseNC ^OP XSessive! Joined: Jan 2008 Location: Denmark, Danimarka, Danmark, Dänemark Oddometer: 949	Schrauber, that sounds interesting, I might look in to that! It does have alot of patina, I'm just a sucker for original paint jobs :) Especially this one, which mine was born with.

08-07-2011, 07:35 AM	#73
LasseNC ^OP XSessive! Joined: Jan 2008 Location: Denmark, Danimarka, Danmark, Dänemark Oddometer: 949	I've bought a spare frame, because the old one had been welded on at the centerstand, so that I couldn't mount it. The new frame is also from a 250ccm version, they are the same in dimensions, but the papers are different, so I can legally use the bigger engine fitted to the bike. Yesterday I took out the engine, which was a pretty simple job, so now it is ready for an overhaul. Going for the blue colour I think.

08-13-2011, 07:48 AM	#74
LasseNC ^OP XSessive! Joined: Jan 2008 Location: Denmark, Danimarka, Danmark, Dänemark Oddometer: 949	Ok, I went for black. Today I tore the bike into pieces, still haven't got the swingarm axles out, they're pretty stuck. I have no heat and a tiny hammer. But for now it's only the frame being painted, that way I can restore as I go. So the rest of the bike is now dragged up on theh first floor of my appartment, where I will be storing it untill I recieve the frame back. It will be powdercoating, I don't know if it is a finish I will be satishfied with, but we will see. So I've started to clean up the wiring, it's not too bad though. The original sleeves are quite hardened, so I will try get some bigger heatshrink. As far as money go, I have far less than I thought, but it shouldn't be a problem.

08-23-2011, 11:26 AM	#75
LasseNC ^OP XSessive! Joined: Jan 2008 Location: Denmark, Danimarka, Danmark, Dänemark Oddometer: 949	Expecting to get the frame, front fork carrier and swingarms back on sunday! I blasted an aluminium rim I had with a fine media, with the intention of polishing it up on a large polising wheel. It wouldn't take too long to do. But I'm also thinking of painting the rim and hub. But powder, conventional or rattlecan it? I'm thinking if powder chips, that it might not be the best thing for the wheel and hub. What do you reckon?