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Old 05-07-2015, 01:01 PM   #1
rdav1031 OP
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Suzuki Brakes

I have a 2001 Suzuki Bandit 1200 S. I am having a problem with the front brake. It is dual disc with Tokiko 6 piston calipers. The brake lever comes nearly to the grip before any breaking occurs. Once there the brakes operate OK. It is very disconcerting to have the lever move so far before anything happens. I have new brake pads, rebuilt the calipers and a new master cylinder. still the same . I have run a pint of brake fluid through the system while bleeding and get no air bubbles. Can anyone give me a clue??
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Old 05-07-2015, 02:28 PM   #2
wsmc831
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Those particular 6 pistons calipers are notorious for being hard to bleed. I seem to remember mine took a while. You might want to try forcing fluid up from the calipers.
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Old 05-07-2015, 05:38 PM   #3
henrymartin
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Bleed the left one first, then the right one. Mighty Vac is your friend on those, especially with the stock lines, as the coupling may hold air.

I swapped mine for Spiegler stainless two line system (two from the master, via a longer banjo bolt) and that was way easier to bleed.

Wait until you have to bleed the rear, opposing piston caliper after rebuilding it. That took me a pint of brake fluid.
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Old 05-08-2015, 02:37 AM   #4
Grimreaper7
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Follow previous advice but take the calipers off the fork mounts, put a bit of floorboard plank between the pads and turn the caliper so the bleed screw is truly at the top before bleeding, should release any trapped air in there.
May need an extra pair of hands to do this.
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Old 05-08-2015, 03:19 AM   #5
JohnCW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdav1031 View Post
I have a 2001 Suzuki Bandit 1200 S. I am having a problem with the front brake. It is dual disc with Tokiko 6 piston calipers. The brake lever comes nearly to the grip before any breaking occurs. Once there the brakes operate OK. It is very disconcerting to have the lever move so far before anything happens. I have new brake pads, rebuilt the calipers and a new master cylinder. still the same . I have run a pint of brake fluid through the system while bleeding and get no air bubbles. Can anyone give me a clue??
The other thing that causes excessive lever/pedal travel is dry sticky seals in the calipers. The dry seals grip the piston and act like return springs when the pressure is released. Instead of remaining flush against the disk the pads are pulled back. A lot of lever/pedal travel is required to close up this excessive clearance.

What did you lubricate the caliper piston, inner and dust seal with when you assembled them? Did you polish or replace the pistons? To diagnose grasp the caliper on top and see if it feels loose or 'jiggly' on the slide pins. If it is this is your problem. It's loose because the pads aren't being held lightly flush against the disk.

If its air in the system, the biggest problem I find is air trapped behind the master cylinder from the vertical hoses leading to the calipers. With the master cylinder cap off just lightly depress the brake lever and watch the usually two holes in the bottom of the reservoir. It requires a little bit of piston movement to uncover the holes and allow the air to rise up and escape. Just keep working the lever slowly the first 1/4 or 1/2 inch of movement back and forth to allow the air in the hoses to rise and escape. Sometimes it can take 20-30 minutes of this pulsing before the small bubbles stop rising. It seems impossible to be able to drive this air out through the bleed nipples in the calipers. It has to be allowed to rise up with the master cylinder piston open slightly to allow it to escape out through the reservoir

Good luck with it.

JohnCW screwed with this post 05-08-2015 at 04:39 AM
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Old 05-08-2015, 06:36 AM   #6
mrbreeze
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what everybody else said, and convert to stainless steel lines. 14 year old rubber hoses are long past their useful life.
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Old 05-08-2015, 08:01 AM   #7
Hammerdown77
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Probably got air bubbles near the master cylinder. Reverse bleed using a large syringe from Tractor Supply Co. or similar. Push fluid from the brake caliper up through the system and into the reservoir. Make sure the cap is off the reservoir and keep an eye on it to keep from spilling fluid out the top.

Also, a bleeder valve banjo fitting at the master makes bleeding it a piece of cake. SV Racing has those.
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Old 05-08-2015, 09:41 AM   #8
rdav1031 OP
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Suzuki Brakes

Thanks for all the advice. I will try them all until I get some good brake feel
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Old 05-08-2015, 10:31 AM   #9
QueenslandKen
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Had the same problem with my TLR.
I bled out the fluids fully, bled out all the banjos including the master cylinder, removed & cleaned all the pots and were still crap.

My GSX has great brakes so I knew there was something wrong with the TLR.
Was going to swap out the master cylinder but just tried the lever instead, bingo !
The lever looked like a stock OEM but had a slightly profile on the lobe that activates the piston.
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Old 05-08-2015, 02:00 PM   #10
Grimreaper7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrbreeze View Post
what everybody else said, and convert to stainless steel lines. 14 year old rubber hoses are long past their useful life.
This reminded me of this video..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=otDOxXEE1Zw
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