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Old 05-02-2015, 05:56 AM   #1
775 OP
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Location: Texas
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Harley problem.....need fix ASAP!

I recently bought a 2014 ex police Harley electra glide motorcycle. I have the history of every service done on the bike. ..it is a great bike and the problem doesn't come specifically because it's an ex police bike. I've experienced a few times the bike "cough" so to speak and a couple times die when in 1st gear. I am what I call an experienced rider and I can confidently say it's not rider enduced. I called my harley dealership and they mentioned the police spoke of this problem but they haven't experienced it and had no answer. I then contacted the police motors department and found out this is a real issue they can't even get answers for.
Basically they said they have had several bikes, 2014 and 2015 only, cough and sometimes die on them when accelerating and in turns causing them to drop the bike. They have tried as have I, higher octane gas, octane boost, no ethanol gas, high flow cat and re-mapping of motorcycle. Still with little improvement, it still happens. Other police departments have also had this problem and nobody, not even the main harley shop in Wisconsin has an answer. I am regretting buying a Harley now which in the past I have had no problems like this. It appears that the new style which came out in 2014 is when this happened which of course is the year of this one.
To better explain the problem, I have started my bike cold from the garage, let it run for 20 secs and begin to take off. When letting out the clutch, it loses all power and basically coughs causing it to die. Is done this several times. On the flip side for those thinking is because it's cold. ..I've rode my bike all day long and the bike is screaming hot. I have pulled up to a stop sign and boom it happens again. I'm clueless. I do practice turning sharp such as police do and luckily it has only done this once causing me to lay the bike over at slow speed, but that's 1 time too many.
Please If anyone honestly knows or has heard of this problem help me. It's discouraging when the dealership and mechanics have no answer and I am self diagnosing this on my own.
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Old 05-02-2015, 06:08 AM   #2
STcorndog
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I had an older 2002 RK police EFI that did this. It also would surge some under steady throttle pulling light hills. I had to give it much throttle at pull offs to be safe. The bike really pissed me off.

I did following (some I did some a dealer did);
plugs
better flow air filter
engine mapping
plug wires
new intake seals
eventually did a top end at 40,000 and found a stuck ring, still did it
the dealer stayed after it and charged me fair for his lack of progress..

Eventually the dealer claimed they found a bad wire to the injector. They theorized the insulation was heating up and allowing the wire to become flexible and loose the injector signal. The bike seemed healed for about 5,000 miles and started the process again.

I finally solved it by selling the HD and buying a used Vstrom. The Vstrom ran to 100,000 miles without any such drama.

The new HDs are set VERY lean. I would try a fuel controller instead of any factory remaps. The bike sounds like it needs fuel.
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Old 05-02-2015, 06:30 AM   #3
BiGR Rich
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Don't know if it's any help at all, but wasn't there a recall on the 14-15 Police bikes recently? Something about the clutch IIRC.

Sorry if that's no help - I don't own a Harley so didn't pay much attention to the recall notice.
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Old 05-02-2015, 07:54 AM   #4
AK650
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Afraid I'll be of no help. I've not heard of this problem. My bike is a civilian '09. Is there a bank angle/tipover sensor? Maybe it's malfunctioning? Is the bike throwing trouble codes after these events? Perhaps moisture in the electrical connector going to your throttle body. Try pulling it off, dry it out(if needed), and hit it with a little dielectric grease before you re-connect it.

Good luck.

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Old 05-02-2015, 08:17 AM   #5
EricD10563
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I copied this procedure on how to check for error codes

Harley Diagnostic Codes

To access codes

1- Turn Ignition switch to OFF & Run/Stop switch is to Run.

2- Push odometer reset button in & hold.

3- Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release odometer reset button. Background lighting sould illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word “diag” should then appear.

4 - Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "PSSPt" (on mine the “t” looks more like a “╘” )with the first P flashing.

5 - Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module) to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time. (from P to S to SP to t and back to P, etc.)
P = ECM/ICM (Electronic Control Module [EFI] / Ignition Control Module [Carbureted])
S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Turn Signal Security Module)
SP = speedometer
T = tachometer



To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTC’s the code will be displayed or the word “none” will appear if there are no DTC’s. Push the odometer reset button again to view additional codes if they exist.

1 - Record the codes.

2 - If DTC’s are not to be cleared, Press and release the odometer reset button. Part number of module will be displayed.
NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and holding the odometer reset button ( longer than 5 seconds) until 'clear' comes up. Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Run your bike and shut it down then recheck the DTC’s again by repeating steps 1 to 3 If the code is current it will reappear.

4 – Press and release the odometer reset button to continue to the next module.

5 – Turn Ignition switch to OFF.

On models not equipped with a tachometer "No Rsp" will appear when the tachometer identifier is selected.

"No Rsp" will also appear if the run/off switch is in the off position when doing this procedure.

added list of error codes

HFSM = Hands Free Security Module
TSM = Turn signal module

Priority/DTC/Fault condition
1. P0605 ECM FLASH Memory Error
2. P0603 ECM EEPROM Memory Error
3. U1300 ECM Serial Data Low
4. U1301 ECM Serial Data High
5. U1097 Loss of Speedometer Serial Data to ECM
6. U1064 Loss of TSM/FSFM Serial Data to ECM
7. P1003 System relay contacts open
8. P1002 System Relay Coil High/Shorted
9. P1001 System Relay Coil Open/Low
10. P1004 System Relay Contacts Closed
11. P1009 Incorrect Password
12. P1010 Missing Password
13. P06415 V+Vref 1 Out Of Range
14. P06515 V+Vref 2 Out Of Range
15. P0373 CKP Sensor Intermittent
16. P0107 Map Sensor Open/Low
17. P0108 Map Sensor High
18. P0374 CKP Sensor Synch Error
19. P1600 EFI Module Processor Internal Error
20. P1270 TGS Validation Error
21. P2107 EFI Module Processor Internal Fault
22. P2122 TGS1 Low/Open
23. P2123 TGS1 High
24. P2127 TGS2 Low/Open
25. P2128 TGS2 High
26. P2138 TGS Correlation Error (Twist grip sensor)
27. P0120 TPS1 Range Error
28. P0220 TPS2 Range Error
29. P0122 TPS1 Low
30. P0123 TPS2 High/Open
31. P0222 TPS2 Low
32. P0223 TPS2 High/Open
33. P2135 TPS Correlation Error
34. P2119 EFI Motor Throttle Body Range Performance
35. P2100 EFI Motor Circuit Open
36. P2101 EFI Motor Circuit Range Performance (Actuation Error)
37. P2102 EFI Motor Circuit Low
38. P2103 EFI Motor Circuit High
39. P2176 EFI Closed Position Not Learned
40. P1514 Air Flow Fault
41. P2105 EFI Forced engine shutdown
42. P1501 Jiffy Stand Sensor Low
43. P1502 Jiffy Stand Sensor High
44. P0572 Brake Switch Low
45. P0117 ET Sensor Low
46. P0118 ET Sensor High
47. P0112I AT Voltage Low
48. P0113I AT Voltage Open/High
49. P1351 Front Ignition Coil Driver Open/Low
50. P1354 Rear Ignition Coil Driver Open/Low
51. P1352 Front Ignition Coil Driver High/Shorted
52. P1355 Rear Ignition Coil Driver High/Shorted
53. P1357 Front Cylinder Combustion Intermittent
54. P1358 Rear Cylinder Combustion Intermittent
55. P0261 Front Injector Open/Low
56. P0263 Rear Injector Open/Low
57. P0262 Front Injector High
58. P0264 Rear Injector High
59. P0562 Battery Voltage Low
60. P0563 Battery Voltage High
61. P0501 VSS Sensor Low
62. P0502 VSS Sensor High/Open..
63. P1356 Rear Cylinder No Combustion
64. P1353 Front Cylnder No Combustion
65. P0444 Purge Solenoid Open/Low
66. P0445 Purge Solenoid High
67. P1475 Exhaust Actuation Position Error
68. P1477 Exhaust Actuator Open/Low
69. P1478 Exhaust Actuator Shorted/High
70. P0131 Front Oxygen Sensor Low
71. P0151 Rear Oxygen Sensor Low
72. P0132 Front Oxygen Sensor High
73. P0152 Rear Oxygen Sensor High
74. P0134 Front Oxygen Sensor Inactive
75. P0154 Rear Oxygen Sensor Inactive
76. P1510 EFI Limited Performance Mode
77. P1511 EFI Power Management Mode
78. P1512 EFI Forced Idle Mode
79. P0577 Cruise Control Input High

Priority/DTC/Fault condition


HFSM = Hands Free Security Module
TSM = Turn signal module

1. U1300 Serial Data Low
2. U1301 Serial Data High
3. U1016 Loss of ECM Serial Data
4. U1255 Serial Data Error
5. B1142 Smart Security System Internal Fault
6. B1135 Accelerometer Failed
7. B1136(HFSM) Accelerometer Tip Test Error
8. B1151 Bank Angle Sensor(BAS) Short to Ground
9. B1152 Bank Angle Sensor(BAS) Short to Battery
10. B1153 Bank Angle Sensor(BAS) High
11. B1154 Clutch Switch Input Short to Ground
12. B1155 Neutral Switch Input Short to Battery
13. B1134 Starter Output High
14. B1121(TSM) Left Turn Output Fault
B1121(HFSM) Left Turn Output Open
15. B1122(TSM) Right Turn Output Fault
B1122(HFSM) Right Turn Output Open
16. B1123(HFSM) Left Turn Output Short to Ground
17. B1124(HFSM) Right Turn Output Short to Ground
18. B1125(HFSM) Left Turn Output Short to Battery
19. B1126(HFSM) Right Turn Output Short to Battery
20. B1143(HFSM) Security Antenna Short to Ground
21. B1144(HFSM) Security Antenna Short to Battery
22. B1145(HFSM) Security Antenna Open
23. B0563 Battery Voltage High
24. B1131(HFSM) Alarm Output Low
25. B1132(HFSM) Alarm Output High
26. B1141(TSM) Ignition Switch Low/Open..
B1141(HFSM) Ignition Switch Low/Open
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Old 05-02-2015, 10:59 AM   #6
dnorton
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Pay attention if there is a coincidence between the amount of fuel in the tank and when this happens. I had a 2003 that did something similar, but only when the fuel tank was at less than 1/2 tank. Turns out there was a hole in the fuel line inside the tank, once the fuel dropped to certain level it started to behave like it was running out of gas.

Dealer couldn't figure it out at first, it wasn't until we made the correlation between quantity of fuel in the tank and symptom that the light dawned.
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Old 05-02-2015, 03:19 PM   #7
hyena
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Sorry for your problem. First I've heard of that. Have you tried this forum? I have found it's a wealth of information.

http://www.hdforums.com/
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Old 05-02-2015, 03:28 PM   #8
manganos
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There is a recall for thus problem. If your dealer can't help you pm me and I will get you straight.
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Old 05-02-2015, 05:34 PM   #9
curtis6870
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 775 View Post
the problem doesn't come specifically because it's an ex police bike. .
Maybe the problem exists because its a Harley.....
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Old 05-02-2015, 06:19 PM   #10
grelcar
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Try asking the question at harleytechtalk.org
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Old 05-02-2015, 06:29 PM   #11
Nemosengineer
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Police Harleys generally are ordered then are outfitted or configured by a vendor (sometimes the dealership) to local police department specifications. depending on the vendors skill, the workmanship varies. The level of complexity of a late model Electra Glide wiring harness is truly amazing, that being said, the assembly and positioning of the wire harness to the chassis sometimes leaves a lot to be desired.
I would start by pulling the tank and plastics off the bike and verify that the wire routing above the engine is correctly located and shows no sign of chafing and allows freedom of movement for the engine sensor/injector wiring and closely inspect all the connections at the pin terminations for all plugs. Next inspect the entire harness for routing chafing and verify all grounding points, inspect for bare wires left hanging and bad splices/modifications and fix anything you find that is in question, also check that the ignition switch stays in the correct detent and is not worn out (not unusual). This is a good first step for exorcising electrical demons. PS: The factory service manual and a good digital multimeter are a must.

Best Wishes: Mike
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Old 05-02-2015, 06:41 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AK650 View Post
Afraid I'll be of no help. I've not heard of this problem. My bike is a civilian '09. Is there a bank angle/tipover sensor? Maybe it's malfunctioning? Is the bike throwing trouble codes after these events? Perhaps moisture in the electrical connector going to your throttle body. Try pulling it off, dry it out(if needed), and hit it with a little dielectric grease before you re-connect it.

Good luck.

Jeff
Very Good Information.

: Mike
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Old 05-03-2015, 05:39 AM   #13
sixspeed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manganos View Post
There is a recall for thus problem. If your dealer can't help you pm me and I will get you straight.
Bump since you ride FLHTP/FLHP's for a living.

So far my '11 FLHP has been fine up to 25k miles - any other big issues your guys have been having on either the 09-13 or 14+ cop bikes worth noting?
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Old 05-03-2015, 05:56 AM   #14
manganos
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My agency keeps them a LONG time. I have the newest one in my Division and it is an 09 with 43k miles. We have quite a few over 80k miles. I have had and 03 and an 06 as well. There are some local agencies with newer bikes so we chat quite a bit too.

My 09 is great except it seems the ABS comes on way too early. While in training doing the brake and escape I have to be careful I don't stab the brake too hard or it will go right into ABS mode.

My 03 was an electrical nightmare. The 06 has a problem with a loss of fuel/acceleration when hot from a start. It would cough and spit after a few enforcement stops on the interstate. It caused quite a few but pucker moments pulling out on interstate 95 and having no power

A local dept 40 miles or so from me just received two 14 Electra Glides and they say they are hard to get used too with the hydrolic clutch. A lot of the guys ride with the clutch lever almost all the way in and they can't do that with the new bikes. (I ride with mine per Harley Spec). While working the NASCAR race last weekend I got to sit on the 14 and play around a bit. That is when they said they received the recall about the clutch issues.

All in all they are stout bikes and very well maintained but it is still a 900# couch. I ride a BMW when I get home


Quote:
Originally Posted by sixspeed View Post
Bump since you ride FLHTP/FLHP's for a living.

So far my '11 FLHP has been fine up to 25k miles - any other big issues your guys have been having on either the 09-13 or 14+ cop bikes worth noting?
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Old 05-03-2015, 07:27 AM   #15
scapegoat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nemosengineer View Post
Police Harleys generally are ordered then are outfitted or configured by a vendor (sometimes the dealership) to local police department specifications. depending on the vendors skill, the workmanship varies. The level of complexity of a late model Electra Glide wiring harness is truly amazing, that being said, the assembly and positioning of the wire harness to the chassis sometimes leaves a lot to be desired.
I would start by pulling the tank and plastics off the bike and verify that the wire routing above the engine is correctly located and shows no sign of chafing and allows freedom of movement for the engine sensor/injector wiring and closely inspect all the connections at the pin terminations for all plugs. Next inspect the entire harness for routing chafing and verify all grounding points, inspect for bare wires left hanging and bad splices/modifications and fix anything you find that is in question, also check that the ignition switch stays in the correct detent and is not worn out (not unusual). This is a good first step for exorcising electrical demons. PS: The factory service manual and a good digital multimeter are a must.

Best Wishes: Mike
Im wondering about the wiring as well. Not an easy find,however based off problems I had with my Buell where the factory actually glues wires together in a splice which failed and caused very intermittent flame out of the speedo and other functions. Good luck, hopefully you find the cure long before you have another stall induced spill.
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