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Old 01-08-2014, 12:27 PM   #151
michnus OP
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a fresh new hell lake Turkana route Kenya to Ethiopia




Our route in yellow from Isiolo, to South Horr, Loiyangalani and Koobi Fora through Siboloi national park
click to expand
We really regret taking more pictures, but in the heat and slow going technical riding to stop for pictures were just too much work. The road to Baragoi and South Horr snakes between and up mountain ranges and some of the most beautiful surrounding imaginable. The going was slow and although it was partly overcast it was hell hot. The entire road up to South Horr was badly run out and corrugated, little did we know the 1st and second gear 20km/h riding was what Murphy had planned for us for much of this route to Ethiopia.


The slow going had some benefits, we were able to enjoy the breath taking surroundings

We arrived at the small village of Barangoi in a cloud of dust. We saw they had a fuel pump and on asking were told they have some but for the majority of time the tanks are always empty. I can understand it as the roads to the village are so bad that tankers cannot deliver fuel and they get delivered by Land Cruisers and other old 4×4’s.


The road meander through the mountains and into river beds.


Reminiscent of the Northern Province bushveld

We calculated that we would be able to finish the route with the fuel we had on board. Not taking into account that the bikes fuel consumption can drop to 16km per liter when doing slow technical riding and we knew it was not going to get easier up North.


Farking hot, shade was a welcoming sight.


Some God forsaken little village turned ghost village.


Few kilometers before South Horr and taking another rest from the heat and slow riding. The best camping spots around, it got difficult to start again after relaxing under lush green trees.

michnus screwed with this post 10-09-2014 at 02:43 AM
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Old 01-08-2014, 01:07 PM   #152
tmotten
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Nice one. Sounds like an amazing experience
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Old 01-08-2014, 02:04 PM   #153
michnus OP
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Nice one. Sounds like an amazing experience
Man, I just want to go back when I see these pictures again.
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Old 01-09-2014, 11:34 AM   #154
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South Horr is a small village between nowhere and hell. Nothing happens there every 30min and it last for the entire week. That is the nothingness, I am talking about. The people on the other hand are super nice and we got chatting with locals within minutes. It's the usual stuff, where from, where too, how old, how many kids, that sort of thing. There is one bar guest house with a groovy African theme and the youngster running the place had some drinks in our hands with in seconds.


What in life is better than this? fuck all!! *:


The owner of the only and best bar cum guest house in South Horr.


Just outside South Horr the road turned into powder dust and sand.

The rest of the route to Loiyangalani was a relatively easy going with sand tracks and at some places we could even use 3rd and 4 for a few hundred meters. For the first time the heat got really unbearable, it must have been well into the 40’s or 50’s. It is nice to ride without a jacket, but it’s actually better with one on as it keeps the warm hot air out. Just about 50km before Loiyangalani we rode into the lava fields.


What is that movie? I see dead people or something the small boy said? Well, I see boobs everywhere *:lol8:


If the sweltering dry heat wasn't bad enough the dust choked us up.


Between the bike and myself I was heavier on water than what the bike was on petrol.

While riding I thought to myself I am sure this is the devil‘s play ground, when camels succumb to the terrain it’s really not a good environment for people. How the tribes survive here is an absolute mystery. Their homes resemble a squatter camp more than anything else, and there’s no water here, except lake water and that is salty.
Not that there are a lot of them around.


Turkana is a very inhospitable place, even camels find it hard.


Millions of years old. Lava rocks all over the place.


This is the road, there is no line between the road and the edge.

Like a fast bitch slap from the irritated guy next to you in a smelly dodgy bar, we were instantly bitch slapped wide awake and had to concentrate like hell riding the lava pebbles and rocks while the sun was busy boiling our brains.

It was quite a difference riding this pebble size razor sharp rocks than sand or any other thing we have been riding before. It’s like riding on fist-size marbles in a hollowed out track and still trying to avoid the sharp edged rocks. Then there’s the size,some are smaller and more of them, or bigger sizes and they throw your front wheel all over the place. Riding out of the track is impossible and dangerous. *Slow going is a no-no, you have to keep the speed to at least 30km/h or even higher. That increases the risk of falling and this is NOT the place to drop a bike.


At last the view of Lake Turkana. It was a welcoming site to some water again. It is called the turquoise lake for being a turquoise colour. I am just to shit at taking pictures that show the true colours so this is as turquoise as it get.
click to open bigger



There is either water or rocks, no vegetation around. How people live in such harsh conditions are beyond comprehension.

It is nearly impossible to try and understand how people can live in such extreme environment. Not even to mention what they know about the Western world. Sometimes I think they are better off not knowing the shit we sit with in the western world.
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Old 01-09-2014, 12:04 PM   #155
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wow.
this is a fantastic rr.
thank you.
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Old 01-09-2014, 02:03 PM   #156
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The terrain is fucking amazing.... It must be so cool to see in person. You have one hell of a wife there man! My girl wouldn't view that shit anywhere but from google earth!
Just amazing where you guys ride!
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Old 01-09-2014, 05:24 PM   #157
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Thanks for the update.
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Old 01-14-2014, 11:43 AM   #158
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Originally Posted by KMC1 View Post
The terrain is fucking amazing.... It must be so cool to see in person. You have one hell of a wife there man! My girl wouldn't view that shit anywhere but from google earth!
Just amazing where you guys ride!
that is a really funny comment! thanks for a good laugh.
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Old 01-14-2014, 11:47 AM   #159
michnus OP
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Lake Turkana Kenya

Photo taking became almost impossible, when the going is good you need make up time and when the terrain is bad you work hard to get out of it. At one stage I stopped for a photo, Elsebie stopped behind me and with the weight of the bike on the loose stones, loosing her balance just for a moment, it was quite a balancing act, Elsebie dropped the bike. I did my best to explain to her in my calmest voice that at this place you do not drop a bike, whatever you do, do not drop a bike.


113F" the rocks radiate heat through the night.

Rocks always and I mean always, win the fight with a bike’s engine casing or sump or whatever lever you need to use when negotiating rocks. I knew she already had that worked out for herself when we first rode into the lava field, and to try and recover a bike from here will be no easy feat, the terrain was really tricky but also good fun to ride.

Heeltyd Speeltyd, this is why we love riding bike!

No sudden braking, you just do not stop, feeling like ABS that’s ON on a dirt road, it’s even difficult to walk on the rocks.


Sign of a good few days riding. Elsebie's hands started to wear in

That afternoon late we reached Shady Palms Campsite in Loiyangalani. We debated long when last we felt so tired and had so much to drink without visiting the toilet. Each had about 1.5l of beer, 1.5l of water and .5l of soda before going to bed! Like at so many other camp sites the staff at the campsite was friendly and eager to please. We had some fresh fish from the lake, chips and coleslaw for dinner.



Life is goood man!!
:lamer:
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Old 01-14-2014, 02:37 PM   #160
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I love Tusker!
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Old 01-14-2014, 02:41 PM   #161
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Same here, Tuskers is a really great beer. Also love the taste of Kilimanjaro beer.
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Old 01-16-2014, 01:06 PM   #162
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Old 01-16-2014, 02:01 PM   #163
michnus OP
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Rest day at Loiyangalani Turkana




The next day we took a ‘rest-day’ and tried to explore the town, BUT the heat was unbelievable, even with the wind blowing. This almost forgotten town is mostly getting its income from the organized over lander groups travelling from Marsabit via North Horr. It’s an oasis in the desert, lots of palm trees and home to three different tribes of people.


Still red faced from the heat, can't remember when last we were this tired.

There are some 3 or 4 campsites in Loiyangalani. Obviously the German run and owned one is the most expensive.To use their swimming pool cost 10usd per swim. The one where the overlanders hang are a real shit hole. Whispering palms are as good as it gets and their friendly staff, inviting green grass and palm trees are just what a traveler want.


About as good as it's gets, and fish if they can catch any.




Oasis living is hard work, had to rest the next few days were going to be tough.
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Old 01-19-2014, 01:34 PM   #164
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Goeie bliksem.
Amazing trip and report Michnus. Those lava rocks look like hell on both bike and rider.

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Old 01-19-2014, 08:08 PM   #165
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Uganda-home away from home

You did a great job of capturing the local places and people in this report. You have the eyes and heart of an traveler, makes me think of a quote on why we travel "to shatter walls and preconception, to be off balance, uncomfortable and overwhelmed. To remind ourselves that beneath everything, all people everywhere are the same. To expand my knowledge, experience and comfort zone in profound ways with the goal of continually improve myself."

Or drink beer!

You don't take the trip, it takes you.

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