|06-08-2012, 12:34 PM||#63|
Totally Normal? I'm not!
Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Banana Republic of Black Gold
Thanks for posting this great RR Michnus, looking forward to reading more of your travels
SS. '98 BMW F650 / '06 WR250F / '03 KTM 950 Adv
|06-08-2012, 01:09 PM||#64|
Vagabond, yes I try!
DEPENDING ON YOUR TASTE THEY MANUFACTURE THESE OVERSIZE STUFFED LOUNGE SUITES, GOOD MARKETING STRATEGY, STACK E'M HIGH AND SELL E'M CHEAP!
It is strange how people and cultures differ between the countries in Africa. Every time we rode into a new country everything changes, the people, the way they do business, their cultures and life style. With all the cross border migration between Africans since the beginning of time one would have thought it would have even out things between people to the extend that cultures and lifestyles would be pretty much on par between countries.
Tanzania is pikipiki besotted, Malawi and SA not much. Tuk-Tuk's do duty as taxi's allover in Tanzania, Ethiopia, Zambia, Uganda but not anywhere else. Most Africans love eating from street cafe's, SA it's not a big thing. Even in Malawi it's not big.
In South Africa we have upcoming middle class and it's evident from the Transkei as subsistence farming is getting less and less. It's easier to farm with cattle. Money get send from the working class in the cities to the rural people who just buy maize at the dealers.
In Malawi and other African countries farming are still the only way of getting food on the table. It's a simplistic view of looking at things, but you get the picture.
ALTAR WINE! This stuff must be working well against vampires, it's horrendously expensive?
FROM TANZANIA UP IF YOU ASK FOR SAUSAGE YOU GET THINGS THAT MORE RESEMBLE A 60 YEAR OLD SANDTON STUCK UP WOMAN'S HANDS THAT HAD TO MANY BOTOCKS INJECTIONS IN HER LIFE. WRINKLED UP VIENA'S COOKED IN OLD OIL AT LEAST IT HELPS SETTLE AN UPSET CONSTITUTION.
THE RULES OF THE LODGE NUMBER 5 AND 6. LOST IN TRANSLATION AND GAY TENDENCIES ARE NOT TO THEIR LIKING?
Tanzanians are a jovial loud bunch, very friendly and seems they all have too much of the extrovert gene in them. They spend time on the street till late at night talking, drinking and just being social with the rest of the folke in their small towns.
It was a wonderful surprise when we figured out we were able to stay in cheap bed and breakfast establishments for less than what we paid for camping in SA, Namibia and Zambia. We stayed over in a small town on the way to Dar Es Salaam, the managers name is Sarafina and a very nice and super friendly girl. The place was brand new, with Chinese fittings everywhere. It's as if they loaded the entire building in pieces in China and shipped it to Tanzania.
We eventually paid less than 11usd for two people for the room and breakfast.
OILCOM? MORE LIKE CAMELCUM! THERE'S A MILLION NEW FUEL COMPANIES OPENING UP IN AFRICA, MOST OF THEM CHOOSE NAMES THAT LEFT US CHUCKLING IN OUR LIDS.
WATER AND FUEL DELIVERY BUSINESS. NOT MUCH BUT EVERYBODY MAKES SOME MONEY.
OVER TURNING TRUCKS IN ZAMBIA AND TANZANIA IS A NATIONAL SPORT. THEY EVEN APPLIED TO THE OLYMPICS COMMITTEE FOR INCLUSION
Hello Africa tell me how you doing? or register and follow us on www.Pikipiki.co.za
Angola, it's not like they said Author: Metaljockey
Namaqua land, and the three adventurous girls.
South Africa/Lesotho longweekend trip
michnus screwed with this post 06-08-2012 at 01:16 PM
|06-09-2012, 05:43 AM||#67|
Vagabond, yes I try!
Gone D sorry nope, I try and upload more on here than what I did on our blog at the time www.pikipiki.co.za.
I did not wanted to load to many pics due to speed and then nobody wants to look at the thread. If you want more I would gladly post more
|06-09-2012, 06:18 AM||#68|
Vagabond, yes I try!
“Pole Pole” in Swahili means slowly slowly! That is how the laid back people of Tanzania live life in this east African country. Everywhere you go you hear Jambo, Jambo….hello hello with broad grins and inviting faces.
The moment we crossed the border into Tanzania it is as if we entered another continent, the people are doing things differently here. There's much more Pikipiki's running around doing taxi duty and the riders love their bikes, they dress them up with fake flowers and neon colour rattle can spray paint.
MAIN ROAD TO DAR ES SALAAM MEANDERS THROUGH A NATIONAL PARK. IT IS WONDERFUL TO GET SO CLOSE TO THESE BEAST AND THAT ON A BIKE
Let me go back to the border crossing between Malawi and Tanzania.
For one, up until now I considered all border officials as the lowest life form on earth, they are rude, power mongering officials with only one thing on their minds and that is to make life hell for anybody on the other side of the counter. Enter the Tanzanian border official - individuals with smiles, they have hearts and a sense of humour of some sort. Harold and myself looking at each other in disbelieve, Twilight zone or something?
On the AA border crossing schedule SA residents still needs a visa for Tanzania and it cost US$50 per person, that's a lot of beer money! We have heard that that might have changed and Harold inquired at the counter as we slide our passports over. Funny, as Tanzanians do not need visas when entering SA.
ROADS TAKE A HUGE BEATING WITH THE HEAVY TRUCKS AND TRAFFIC
Without ceremony the lady official was off with our passports into a room behind her, and came back without them. Wait there she said! After 20min another official with a straight face come calling us and instructed us to follow him into the room. There's 4 of them sitting and one talking on a cell.
Oh shit, we thought, what now! The older one ended his cell conversation and informed us that we are indeed correct there is a new directive out for SA passport holders, no visas needed for Tanzania anymore SA passport holders but because they do not have it on a stamped piece of paper they will stamp our passports and we must report to Immigration in Dar Es Salaam for them to make a decision whether we have to pay visa cost or not.
AROUND 4usd FOR BEERS AND FOOD PER PERSON.
We were bowled over, Harold had the look of a man that was just bitched slapped with a 3 day old fish in the face, wet and nasty. This is not possible, border officials that are actually nice and gave our dollars back to us, there must be a catch, why would any border official do anything more than what is expected!?
We know moving around in Dar Es Salaam would be hell, so we said to the man we would actually rather pay for the visa than spend a day running around Dar standing in queues trying to convince another one of his border official species not to have to pay for a visa. No..no.. you go, we make you a favour he said! *Ya..riiiiight mate! We left looking very confused and baffled with our US$100 back in our pockets.
MEAT IS ALWAYS FRESH, CHICKENS ARE A BIT TOUGH AND SKINNY BUT IF COOKED FOR A FEW DAYS IN BATTERY ACIDTHEY TEND TO SOFTEN UP QUITE NICELY
ROAD SIDE RESTAURANTS, THE BEST FOOD AND DIRT CHEAP. GOATMEAT WITH CHIAPATA'S NEXT TO THE HIGHWAY
Little did we know this would come back at us!
Tanzania really is a freaky place. The people are much more colourful bunch than the previous African countries we have crossed. They are just as friendly and inviting, with big smiles and waves but their way of doing things are different.
PIKIPIKI'S EVERYWHERE WITH SPARES AND MECHANICS IN FULL SUPPLY.
All along the main road to Dar Es Salaam we past small villages. The road is lined with lodges and small road side bars in zebra colours and Safari names. They really embrace the safari and wildlife tourism spirit.
Everywhere there's people manufaturing beds, furniture, doors and anything else from wood. They are actually quite good at it and some of the offerings look like very good quality. Strange that South Africans can’t get such small industries up and running.
THIS TRUCK GETS A TOTAL ENGINE OVERHAUL NEXT TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD, ONLY THE BLOCK WAS STILL IN THE TRUCK. THIS IS NOT UNCOMMON TO SEE BIG HORSE AND TRAILERS NEXT TO THE ROAD BETWEEN NOWHERE AND HELL WITH THE ENGINE OUTSIDE ON THE GROUND
Tanzania also turned out to be the cheapest we have paid for accommodation on the entire trip. For a double room with shower, TV and what not, we paid the same as for camping in other countries! Beer cost less than a Dollar and every locally owned lodge is affordable.
The moment you want to stay in a lodge owned by South Africans or Swiss or some Expat you will pay your ass off. Most travelling South Africans are to shit scared to stay in local lodges so they rather pay over inflated prices to stay at places where they can connect with a white face.
FARKING MAIN ROADS, I HATE THEM!
We also figured out some people verwar kak en kwaliteit. When a white expat lodge owner and that include any lodge run or owned by white Europeans or South Africans, say their lodges are eco-friendly you must know you will pay top dollar for a dump with showers with no water and a long drop. I know I generalise a bit, but there is reason for it.
When they use the word Sanctuary in their name it gets even worse, the protected mosquito's will drag you out your tent at night. When you order food and they will tell you it takes time to prepare good food, what they actually say is we do not have a chef and not much more than bread in the kitchen, we will go kill one of the neighbours old chickens.
EVERYBODY SELLING THE SAME STUFF
The first night in Tanzania we stopped at Makambago for petrol and by the time Harold and Linda got to the pump there was no more fuel left. We decided to look for a place to stay in the town, but like most small towns it is run down and looks dodgy to say the least.
While waiting for them to look for other stations I drove up their main road and saw a lodge that looked like a safe place to stay, it was behind big white walls. *In the end it turned out to be a very well looked after place, run by Sarafina Takunda a black Muslim lady. We paid 15USD for the room including TV new bed and breakfast.
ABOUT 70usd BUYS YOU THIS GROOVY CRIB
This was cheaper than camping rates! She was extremely helpful, arranging for us to eat at a nearby bar and the best from the place was its innocent presence that overwhelmed us. Even the next day at breakfast joking about all the Chinese materials that was used to build the place we thought we did not hear what she said about the price. To our surprise that is the going rate for local self-run lodges.
SOME EVEN OFFER SAUNAS
As with Angola over turning trucks are also a national sport and past time in Tanzania, we can only surmise that there’s none or very little training and qualification needed when applying for a license. Driving is SA is 100% safer than in the other Africans countries we have traveled, these are extremely dangerous drivers, going into the opposite lanes in blind corners, passing in the face of oncoming traffic and every other dangerous manoeuvre you can think off.
In Iringa we stopped for something to drink and I notice for the first time while checking the bikes for leaks or parts busy falling off, my bike’s radiator hoses are still swollen up after 15min standing and the other three bikes hoses are back to normal. Not more shit, I thought! But this can’t be good, so I swopped the radiator caps with Elsebie’s bike to try and figure out what is going on. *
That afternoon while looking for place to stay I notice water weeping out of the bleed hole, which is the bloody seals I have just replaced 1000km back in Malawi! I double check to make sure I fitted the seals correctly. I did, and now it is even more confusing because it means the bike is not releasing the pressure in the system after the bike was switched off. For some reason this have damaged the seal.
IRINGA AND THE SHIT HITS THE FAN AGAIN. THE DAKAR START TO PISS OUT WATER AGAIN FROM THE BLEEDHOLE
|06-18-2012, 12:24 PM||#69|
Livin' the dream
Joined: Aug 2003
Location: North Bend, WA
I love this adventure story! Can't wait to hear the next episode
|06-19-2012, 07:50 AM||#70|
where are the pedals?
Joined: Jan 2009
Location: closer to Baja
Thanks for putting in the effort to finish this RR. Really enjoying reading about your trip.
where does that road go?
|06-25-2012, 01:15 PM||#71|
Vagabond, yes I try!
DAR ES SALAAM AND IT'S SWELTERING HOT WITH HIGH HUMIDITY. THE FERRY TO MEKADI BEACH IS A FULL PACK AFFAIR
I pretty much missed all the scenery and animals next to the road while passing through the national park on route to Dar, as I had to get miles behind me to Dar before the seal let go and lose all the water in the radiator. Strange, when I ride it does not seems to lose water, but as soon as the bike is parked 10min later it drips water from the water pump weep hole.
It was late in the afternoon when we drove into Dar Es Salaam and headed straight for Mikadi beach resort. It was sweltering hot and the humidity hovered in the mod 80's. The resort is a overlanders spot and a bit run down but a good place to stay and it's right on the beach.
THE MANGOES ARE NICE BOOBS SIZE
We had to plot our time and stay in Dar since I had to get new parts for the bike and wanted to visit Zanzibar. The first letdown was that we could not arrange to ferry the bikes across to Zanzibar. The bottom line was that the ferry was to expensive and the cargo ferries only traveled to Zanzibar and back once every fortnight.
THIS IS HOW YOU DO BUSINESSES, WEAVE SCHICK BASKETS TO DISPLAY THE FRUITS
COCONUT VENDORS CHARGE A PENNY FOR A WELCOME REFRESHING DRINK
Dar is a typical African city and a bit of a shit hole. There are a few nice spots and the vibe in the city are easy going and relaxed. There's many nice spots to dine and wine and the evenings are warm and windless.
We decided to take the ferry over to Zanzibar and spend 4 days romping around the island drinking beer and worship the sun god.
Mekadi Beach resort Dar Es Salaam
Linda's birthday and we quaff away on beer and wine.
Do I have to say more?
These were the ones on the toilet doors. I must say the outdoor showers were quite groovy except for the salt water. We eventually move into one of the skew Banda's for not much more money.
|07-02-2012, 09:31 AM||#73|
Vagabond, yes I try!
Freddie Mercury and the island of Zanzibar
Freddie Mercury's birth place, Zanzibar turned out to be more of a tourist island than we expected – almost everything in Zanzibar is setup with tourism in mind. Spice tours, town tours, park tours, Prison Island tours, …
The island can be split into 3 areas:
- * Stone Town, rich in history with its very old buildings, small alley ways, impressive doors and markets.
- * The South with beautiful beaches, expensive lodges and the national park.
- * The Northern beach area, buzzling with bikini and speedo cladded people, parties and many activities. This was where we headed!!
Transport to and around Zanzibar could be very expensive if you do not shop around. We left Dar Es Salam with a ferry called, Kilimanjaro – the air-conditioned, first class luxury view will cost you $40, but makes the 70km to Zanzibar enjoyable. Regardless of ‘The Karate Kid’ movie showing repeatedly! Jeeesus what was Jackie Chan thinking?
The story goes that those pointy cobber knobs were to keep Elephants away from rubbing against the doors in India it made it's way across to Zanzibar
It turned out to be quite a mission to take our bikes across with us – quotes around $250usd per bike makes renting a Vespa or Piaggio for roughly $20usd fair enough. Elsebie, Martijn, Wibien and I rented a ‘well-worn’ Suzuki Vitara for $30usd a day and made a beeline for the North. If you thought bribing is well and ripe in SA – you should see it around Zanzibar and Tanzania! We were stopped 4 times in 2 days – and blatantly asked for money as all our permits and paperwork were in order. Linda and Harry decided to rent motorcycles to stay in the spirit of the trip..
Use more fuel per mile than an M1 Abrahs tank!
In Stone Town we met our guide, arranged via a person in Dar, Amour (yeah, ‘Love’ is the direct translation of Amour!). *Initially we thought that we do not need a guide, but little did we know how important it was to have a tour guide for Stonetone – the history needs explaining and not to miss some very interesting titbits about the cities spicy past, and then a negotiator is essential. *‘Love’ was the perfect guide for us, not overbearing but quiet, knowledgeable and keeping a steady island pace.
The Mercury bar named after Freddie Mercury is a happening hip spot! (Check out the roof fan!)
Life on this island is slow and easy. Looooove it!
Stone Town turned out the be the birth place of Freddy Mercury and it seemed fit to go to the Mercury pub first – traveling is known to be a thirsty job and the arrangement of beers must be explored!
There is an evening food market everyday with an abundance of sea food and other foods like sweet pancakes with banana and chocolate spread.
The locally made cane sugar drink goes down well in the heat.
The small alleyways of Stone Town are amazing, initially you feel you can get lost quite easily. *You will find almost everything you need in these small alley shops. The history screaming at you once you see the doors, which played a huge role in showing off wealth, religion and origins.
The local fish market is right out of Asterix and Obelix village. Very busy and a thick fish stench sits in the back of your nostrils. The sad sight are the fish on the floor, it's enough to drive anybody to become a vegetarian.
Boat building by hand and the traditional way. Roadside food, just love it!
You will not go hungry in Stone Town – there are so many restaurants, drinking spots and then the legendary night market in the square. *Take lots of small change as it is SO DIFFICULT for the sellers to find change … they seem to profit not only out of the sales but by making sure you return for your change or eventually telling them to keep it. *We sampled some of the fish sosaties, coconut milk bread, banana & choc filled ‘pizza’ and sugar cane drinks. *It is exciting and wonderful!
Half day excursion to Prison Island from Stonetone with the snorkeling and a visit to these 120 year old frisky tortoises.
The Prison Island tour takes you to a small little island visible from the harbour. Originally intended for prisoners but later used for the quarantining of incoming ships and passengers – thus managing illnesses on the island. *The snorkelling was fantastic, the island so beautiful and the tortoises – well for a 185 year old one … still frisky!
Sun-downers from one of the bars in Stonetown offers some of the most beautiful sunsets and is worth spending some time with friends from early afternoon.
|07-09-2012, 12:56 PM||#74|
Vagabond, yes I try!
The northern beach area of Zanzibar is where the young party and frolic in the sun. You can easily spend quite a bit of time on this side of the island. Snorkeling, diving, wind surf, sail, fish, go pub crawling or just do some people watching late in the afternoon while watching the sun set over the turquoise waters. *The beaches range from picture perfect white sands to rocky cliffs. *You will hear friendly ‘Jumbo’ calls everywhere and the food is as always colourful and good..
If I have to choose between Mauritius and Zanzibar, this place will win every time. It's laid back and not as touristy.
Drinking to the god of bikes.
Everybody and every animal has good time in Zanzibar, except for chicken and fish, they get eaten!
It was time to head back and fix the Dakar. Harold helped me and we erected a make shift cargo sail roof for shade. It's hell hot and there is no way we can work for 4-5hours in direct sun, it will boil the brains. A local guy was friendly enough to help us fix and clean the radiator and pump. The problem was the Malawi water I sued had sediment in it and it ate the water pump seals.
* * * *
There's still good men left in Africa
On the road again!!
We were heading for Arusha a lovely scenic small town a few kilometers away from Kilimanjaro. We camped at the Honey badger over-landers lodge 15km away from Kilimanjaro. The next day we head up towards the entrance gate of Kilimanjaro just to be stopped at the gates and told we are not allowed to enter the park. Oo well, just as good is to sit at the closest pub and have a few beers.
The road to Arusha offers plenty of stops for water. Fixing punctures became a common activity
At the Honey Badger lodge I got this wannabe artist to paint me a Tanzania scene on my R1000 screen. Well he whole heartily fucked it up!! He took a carpet knife and cut out a vinyl sticker of his company's on my screen. Live and learn it's
Elsebie trying to clean the clouds over the top of Kilimanjaro for a better picture
On our way down Kilimanjaro back to Arusha Elsebie and me took a new a track that I saw on a map that wound it's way *around the base of Kilimanjaro towards Arusha but it is not on T4A or the other map sets. The dirt track meanders through an old forest with thick under growth and stunning views over the base of Kilimanjaro.
This was some of the best 6 hours of dirt track we have ridden in months, lots of technical sections and steep decents!
Masai camp in Arusha is about the best place to camp, there's also some rooms but horrendously expensive. Every Friday and Saturday night there's a huge party with the young from all over the world that cavort and binge till the early hours. It's a cosmopolitan mix of black and white and any other race on the face of the earth. I really feel free and home *with all these different beings having a good time around me.
Deniz and Elif that rode from Turkey to Cape Town on their Triumph. He did some damage to the bike at lake Turkana.
Life is good, forging new friendships and having a blast!!
|07-09-2012, 01:38 PM||#75|
Joined: Jun 2009
nice RR, and very good pics.
thanks for sharing.
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=801550 Around Puerto Montt
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http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=684979 ride to San Pedro de Atacama
. CHILE IS GOOD FOR YOU ...
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