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Old 10-13-2011, 05:15 AM   #316
fotobo
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Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Coweta, Ok
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Great job on the Ride Report. Thanks for all the entertainment. I looked forward to reading it each day.

Looks like you are close to being home. Glad you made it ok. Sorry I wasn't home when you came through. It would have been good to see you again and share a beer with you. Maybe another time.

I thought later that I should have asked you to come down to the enduro, but it would have added a couple hundred miles to your trip and I bet you were anxious to get home by then.

Again congratulations!
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Old 10-13-2011, 01:25 PM   #317
leftystrat62
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Location: Little Rhody
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"Also, I busted my campfire-starting-cherry. I had a tough time of it. I thought I was doing something wrong, but after several hours, I could tell that the wood was moist since it was smoking and evaporating the water from the cut end as it burned down. It really didn’t burn well at all, I had to blow on it every 5 minutes to keep an actual fire going.

If any of you hippies or manscouts out there could give me advice on doing it the right way, I would appreciate it. "

I didn't notice anyone chiming in on your question so here's some things I try to do for a good camp fire. If there's not a fire ring already made,I'll gather some stones to build one-building it larger in the back to reflect the heat. I like to think of the process a going from small to big,and I even like to separate my wood into piles that reflect that. You need something to use a s a fire starter. I often buy beer just before I camp and ask for brown paper bags to carry it in. I rip them up in little strips,or will use Birch tree bark if I can find some.You can also whittle some from a dry branch. Then I make a teepee style set up with very small/skinny twiggy material-if it snaps as I brake it up it should be dry enough (stuff without bark works best). At that point I light it SLOWLY feeding it small stuff,then just a little bigger every now and then. Once I get a good consistent flame,I add just little bits,always allowing air to get up under the pieces I just laid on to the fire. After about 5 minutes I'll then add stuff just a bit thicker than my thumb,and slowly get a medium sized piece in there every once in a while.
You need that good bit of hot coals to be burning for a bit before you attempt to use big pieces like I saw in your picture. Dry wood is key,and anything you can find around the water-drift wood works great also. Hope you get some nice camp fires going,it's often my favorite of the day. Cheers

Woops,didn't realize you've completed the trip,I'm only on page 6-good stuff.

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Old 10-13-2011, 01:50 PM   #318
simonpig OP
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Eek Lost the chain again!

Don't know what's up but I keep loosing my chain. The only difference when changing out the sprocket was going from o ring to non o ring chain. Also when from 48 tooth to 50 tooth. Seem strange going up in the rear but when I get back I wanted to be able to improve single trackability. I notice the chain has less clearance to the chain guard and this maybe knocking the clip off? Ordered an o ring chain and 48 t sprocket. In the meantime. Hanging out at the dickson inn in tennessee.

Anyone having problems with 50t rear sprockets on this bike?

Was actually really lucky in that I rolled to a stop at exit 172 on i40. It was dusk and I walked back looking for the chain but to no avail. Rolled the bike up the exit to the Dickson inn and suites.

Woke up this morning and walked the interstate to see if I could find the chain. No dice. It's just vanished into thin air.
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Old 10-13-2011, 01:59 PM   #319
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fotobo View Post
Great job on the Ride Report. Thanks for all the entertainment. I looked forward to reading it each day.

Looks like you are close to being home. Glad you made it ok. Sorry I wasn't home when you came through. It would have been good to see you again and share a beer with you. Maybe another time.

I thought later that I should have asked you to come down to the enduro, but it would have added a couple hundred miles to your trip and I bet you were anxious to get home by then.

Again congratulations!
Thanks and no worries. Shoulda let you know my whereabouts earlier. I'm learning lots about planning ahead anticipation on this trip.
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Old 10-13-2011, 03:33 PM   #320
One Less Harley
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I busted my chain, but the chain was too tight and got into the counter shaft sprocket wore it away to pointy teeth the chain came off and then wedged between the case then broke.

Is your counter shaft sprocket good and chain have the right amount of slack????

Have a mechanic double check chain tension. Load up the suspension and check when counter shaft sprocket, swing arm pivot and rear axle are all lined up.


0-----------0---------------0
CS.......... Swing............... rear
.................arm................. axle
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Old 10-13-2011, 06:17 PM   #321
rufus
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Location: Coweta Oklahoma
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simonpig View Post
Don't know what's up but I keep loosing my chain. The only difference when changing out the sprocket was going from o ring to non o ring chain. Also when from 48 tooth to 50 tooth. Seem strange going up in the rear but when I get back I wanted to be able to improve single trackability. I notice the chain has less clearance to the chain guard and this maybe knocking the clip off? Ordered an o ring chain and 48 t sprocket. In the meantime. Hanging out at the dickson inn in tennessee.

Anyone having problems with 50t rear sprockets on this bike?

Was actually really lucky in that I rolled to a stop at exit 172 on i40. It was dusk and I walked back looking for the chain but to no avail. Rolled the bike up the exit to the Dickson inn and suites.

Woke up this morning and walked the interstate to see if I could find the chain. No dice. It's just vanished into thin air.



A bigger rear sprocket can cause problems. You may need to run your chain a little looser. If the chain doesn't have a straight shot through the chain guide but instead takes a bend downward it could reduce the amount of slack you need for suspension movement. This could put stress on the chain and cause it to wear faster and possibly break. not enough slack can also wear out wheel bearings and transmission bearings. When the countershaft, swingarm pivot bolt, and the rear axle centerlines are all lined up, this is the point at which most chains are their tightest. You should still have a little slack left. Lean over the seat and grab the swingarm and pull down until all 3 are inline. if the chain is tight like a guitar string you will have problems.

OR..........your chain guide might be bent. Lay down on your belly and eyeball along the side of the rear sprocket and see if the chain guide is lined up properly.
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Old 10-13-2011, 06:39 PM   #322
simonpig OP
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Yes, I believe the slack was within tolerance. I put weight on the bike and if there's still a little slack, it's good enough for me.

Had r&s yamaha install the sprocket and chain in albuqurque. Brand new parts as of 1100 miles ago. Last I inspected the some of the rollers on the non o ring chains were coming off. Though it was DID brand I got what I paid for I suppose. Makes me think I should go rivet masterlink from now on.

As a note, I lost the clip on my masterlink on the chain, I ran on the Tat as well. I discovered the only thing that kept the chain from coming apart was the pin on the masterlink welded itself to the plate. Lucky me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by One Less Harley View Post
I busted my chain, but the chain was too tight and got into the counter shaft sprocket wore it away to pointy teeth the chain came off and then wedged between the case then broke.

Is your counter shaft sprocket good and chain have the right amount of slack????

Have a mechanic double check chain tension. Load up the suspension and check when counter shaft sprocket, swing arm pivot and rear axle are all lined up.


0-----------0---------------0
CS.......... Swing............... rear
.................arm................. axle
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Old 10-13-2011, 06:47 PM   #323
simonpig OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rufus View Post
A bigger rear sprocket can cause problems. You may need to run your chain a little looser. If the chain doesn't have a straight shot through the chain guide but instead takes a bend downward it could reduce the amount of slack you need for suspension movement. This could put stress on the chain and cause it to wear faster and possibly break. not enough slack can also wear out wheel bearings and transmission bearings. When the countershaft, swingarm pivot bolt, and the rear axle centerlines are all lined up, this is the point at which most chains are their tightest. You should still have a little slack left. Lean over the seat and grab the swingarm and pull down until all 3 are inline. if the chain is tight like a guitar string you will have problems.

OR..........your chain guide might be bent. Lay down on your belly and eyeball along the side of the rear sprocket and see if the chain guide is lined up properly.
Good info. If I were just doing highway only, do ya think it's ok to run without a chain guide without incident? If it is indeed bent?
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Old 10-13-2011, 07:16 PM   #324
rufus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simonpig View Post
Good info. If I were just doing highway only, do ya think it's ok to run without a chain guide without incident? If it is indeed bent?

You need a chain guide. Just rolling on and off the throttle can cause the chain to whip and possibly jump off the sprocket.
The tab on the swingarm that the chain guide bolts to is what usually gets bent. Pull the guide off and use a big crescent wrench or some channel locks to bend it back. Or a hammer and a punch of some kind. They usually bend back fairly easily.
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Old 10-13-2011, 07:57 PM   #325
rufus
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Location: Coweta Oklahoma
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tompound View Post
the only bikes of mine that have them are my dirt bikes

He is on a Yamaha WR250R. Street legal dirt bike. Dirt bikes have chain guides because the swingarm moves through a larger arc, and the distance from the rear axle to the countershaft varies much more than in a street bike so the chain must be run looser. A looser chain whips more and is more likely to jump the sprocket. That is why ALL dirt bikes and Dual sports have a chain guide. I am sure that it is POSSIBLE to circle the globe without a chain guide. It is also possible, AND VERY LIKELY, that a long travel bike without a chain guide could have the chain jump off and wrap around the wheel or countersprocket and lock up the motor. I wouldn't want this to happen to me while i was in traffic at 60 or 70 mph. I would fix it and ride without worries. To each his own though.

That is all from me on this subject.

EXCELLENT ride report. !!!! Thanks for taking the time to entertain us.
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Old 10-14-2011, 07:26 AM   #326
leftystrat62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by One Less Harley View Post
The WR can do interstate miles two guys i rode with rode fro Houston to the start, then at the finish one rode to Houston the other went on up to Canada to see his mother, then rode home. He had a total of 10,000 miles on the bike. WR's can do it, but comfort might not be the best. If you ride back you'll have the satisfaction of knowing you did the complete ride and didn't wimp out and ship the bike home!!! It was more difficult on the mind and body riding the intertstae home. Well at least for me as I was hauling ass getting home. Well as much as one can at 62 miles mph on the highway!! Feels like hauling ass on a DRZ. It's rough on ya, but hey what's a little pain, earns you bragging rights!!!
Anyone who ships their bike home after riding a 250 DS bike from the East coast to the West coast is wimping out?

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Old 10-14-2011, 09:14 AM   #327
GotMojo?
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Has anybody ridden the TAT to the west coast... then turned around and rode it in reverse back to TN? That'd be pretty hardcore.
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Old 10-14-2011, 08:04 PM   #328
Gbob
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Simon, I've really enjoyed your ride report. Did a part of the TAT in May, Jellico to Colorado, and look forward with GREAT anticipation to a loop next year down the divide, back on the TAT to Oregon then across to the Divide and back down to Boulder. Its a blast isn't it.

Simple thing about the chain someone pointed out to me...don't laugh you gnarlies... make sure the clip is not turned around. Closed end forward. Sounded like your clip was poppin off????

All the best to you and thanks for the great story and pictures
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Old 10-14-2011, 09:32 PM   #329
simonpig OP
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I could see hanging out on the west coast for a couple of months and then going back by Tat maybe but pulling a Forrest gump and turning back immediately would be masochistic and a bit pointless. Doing it in reverse doesn't make it twice as good.
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Has anybody ridden the TAT to the west coast... then turned around and rode it in reverse back to TN? That'd be pretty hardcore.
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Old 10-14-2011, 09:49 PM   #330
simonpig OP
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Location: NYC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gbob View Post
Simon, I've really enjoyed your ride report. Did a part of the TAT in May, Jellico to Colorado, and look forward with GREAT anticipation to a loop next year down the divide, back on the TAT to Oregon then across to the Divide and back down to Boulder. Its a blast isn't it.

Simple thing about the chain someone pointed out to me...don't laugh you gnarlies... make sure the clip is not turned around. Closed end forward. Sounded like your clip was poppin off????

All the best to you and thanks for the great story and pictures
Thanks. My clip "swims with the fishes". It was in the correct position with the close end running towards the direction of the drive.

Got a 49t sprocket and o ring chain from Motosport.com this morning and installed under shade in the parking lot. Turns out some of the teeth on 50t rear was a little bent. this must've put a lot of lateral pressure on the plate. I also think that 49t is the biggest I would ever go on the wrr.
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