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Old 09-21-2011, 10:17 AM   #226
firebrick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Railbender View Post
I was one of the first to use one on a Ural. There were some problems but Grok worked very hard and THEY NOW WORK FINE on the Urals. The tach feature alone makes it much better than anything else since Urals don't have such newfangled stuff, unless you added one.

A happy Harmonizer!

sweet i got one. never synced my carbs before, hopefully this makes it easy.
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Old 09-21-2011, 07:28 PM   #227
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I received my Harmonizer a while ago and it works great.
I synched the carbs my wife's Transalp with mercury carbstix first, and was still able to get the synch better with the Harmonizer.
Since then I've used it on a few bikes at work, with no issues.
Please let me know when the 4 cylinder one is available.
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Old 09-21-2011, 08:28 PM   #228
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...ordered one yesterday...first one to Japan?
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Old 09-22-2011, 06:28 AM   #229
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Originally Posted by boxerboy81 View Post
Well my Twin Max has stopped working, and I read here that there isn't a market for second hand non working Twin Max's (it must be true then!), sooo I am also expecting a delivery to sunny Melbourne in Oz.

Arrived in Oz today, just a week or so from payment.
Excellent. Thanks.

Now to dial in those carbs.
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Old 09-22-2011, 08:08 AM   #230
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Originally Posted by DDT Rider View Post
...ordered one yesterday...first one to Japan?
Yup!
Those Japanese place-names are long! I had to focus to get the whole address on the box
Another first recently to Finland!

Thanks for the order!
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Old 09-22-2011, 08:15 AM   #231
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPEEDSMITH View Post
I received my Harmonizer a while ago and it works great.
I synched the carbs my wife's Transalp with mercury carbstix first, and was still able to get the synch better with the Harmonizer.
Since then I've used it on a few bikes at work, with no issues.
Please let me know when the 4 cylinder one is available.
Thanks for the feedback!

Glad you like it
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Old 09-23-2011, 09:42 AM   #232
2Wheeltravellingman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Railbender View Post
I was one of the first to use one on a Ural. There were some problems but Grok worked very hard and THEY NOW WORK FINE on the Urals. The tach feature alone makes it much better than anything else since Urals don't have such newfangled stuff, unless you added one.

A happy Harmonizer!

Hi Railbender,

Could you share any Ural carb tuning tips with us? My Harmonizer should arrive in the next week or so.

Cheers,
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Old 09-23-2011, 11:47 AM   #233
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Originally Posted by 2Wheeltravellingman View Post
Hi Railbender,

Could you share any Ural carb tuning tips with us? My Harmonizer should arrive in the next week or so.

Cheers,
It is pretty straight forward, watch the video in the first post. You disconnect the vacuum line from the left carb and remove the vacuum port cap from the right and connect the Harmonizer, calibrate then start the engine. Remember to set the petcock to PRIME and reset it to ON when you are done. I set my idle to 1100 RPMs. (Gotta love the Tach feature ) I am using 130 main & 45 idle jets. The 45 might be a bit rich but I am trying it as the weather cools, it eliminates the burping & farting on a cold start.

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Old 09-23-2011, 01:10 PM   #234
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Originally Posted by 2Wheeltravellingman View Post
Hi Railbender,

Could you share any Ural carb tuning tips with us? My Harmonizer should arrive in the next week or so.

Cheers,
I'm going to jump in here.. Not too sure if it's a good idea because I don't own a Ural and the last one I tuned is a distant memory. This information will probably be useful for AIRHEAD OWNERS as well. If anyone thinks I'm full of crap or omitted something please do correct me.

There are 3 types of adjustments for balance and carb tuning.
1. Carburetor idle mixture
2. Idle balance and RPM combination.
3. Higher-RPM balance.

Do a careful valve adjust first. It helps immensely for smoothness.
Warm the engine to operating temperature, then shut it off.
Put a BAF (big ass fan) on it while doing the adjustments.

The first thing we are going to do is a rough idle balance and RPM adjustment. This will make sure the carbs are working roughly equally and are running on the idle jets instead of the main jets. This is in preparation for adjusting the idle mixture. If the bike is generally running well, this step 1 may not be necessary.

STEP 1. ROUGH BALANCE and RPM ADJUSTMENT.
PURPOSE: make sure carbs are contributing roughly equally and are operating on the idle jets by adjusting idle balance and RPM in Harmonizer balancer mode.

Disconnect the vacuum line from the left carb and remove the cap from the right. plug on the Harmonizer hoses and push the red button. After some seconds, the Harmonizer will finish it's calibration routine and stand ready in balancer mode. Put the petcock in prime position (this will bypass and defeat the vacuum shutoff function). Start the motor and blip the throttle a couple of times. Make sure there is a very small amount of slack in the cables. Adjust the idle stop screws (not the idle mixture screws) such that the Harmonizer shows balanced at around 1000 to 1100 RPM. You don't need to be too accurate here. We're going to redo it later. Shut off the motor.

STEP 2. IDLE MIXTURE ADJUSTMENTS
PURPOSE: Optimize idle mixture for each carb by adjusting for max vacuum in Harmonizer gauge mode.

Here's where we adjust the idle mixture for each carb. In the previous step we made sure both carbs were contributing roughly equally and were running on the adjustable idle jets. Disconnect the Harmonizer hose from the right carb and put the cap back on. At this point the Harmonizer should be connected with one hose only, yellow port to left carb. Put the Harmonizer in gauge mode by holding the button pressed until you see "gauge mode" and releasing the button. Start the engine. On the Harmonizer display you will see a left-zero graph and a numeric display that shows vacuum in inches of mercury along with the tach reading. The object is to adjust the idle mixture screw on the left carb such that the vacuum reading is as high as you can make it. Make small adjustments and give the Harmonizer a few seconds to settle after each small tweak. Once you've maximized the vacuum reading for the left carb, shut off the motor. Disconnect the Harmonizer from the left carb, replace the vacuum petcock hose, and remove the cap from the right carb. Connect the Harmonizer yellow port the the right carb. Still in gauge mode, repeat the process of adjusting the idle mixture screw for maximum vacuum on the right carb. Shut off the motor.

STEP 3. FINE IDLE BALANCE and RPM ADJUSTMENT.
PURPOSE: Fine tune idle balance after messing about with the idle mixture adjustments in step 2.

Step 3 is basically a repeat of step 1. The Harmonizer is in balancer mode and both hoses are connected. The object is to adjust the idle stop screws such that the Harmonizer show a balanced condition and the RPM's are within specifications. Shut off motor.

STEP 4: HIGHER RPM BALANCE.
PURPOSE: Adjust relative cable lengths such that the carbs are balanced above idle, while the cables are in control.

Make sure both cables have a small amount of slack - maybe 2mm or so.
Put the Harmonizer in balancer mode if it has automatically turned itself off. Restart the motor.

Adjust the relative cable length by adjusting ONE of the cable adjusters (the right side is traditional) such that the Harmonizer shows a balanced condition at around 3000 RPM or so.

That should do it!
Shutoff motor. Disconnect Harmonizer, replace petcock hose and vacuum cap, shutoff pectock.

Bask in your achievement!
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Grok screwed with this post 10-23-2011 at 08:37 AM
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Old 09-24-2011, 06:13 AM   #235
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Thanks for your input...

Thanks to Grok and Railbender for shedding some additional light on the process. I'll report back on my success, or lack thereof, once the forces responsible for the stifling of free trade release my new Harmonizer from captivity....

Cheers
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Old 09-24-2011, 09:24 AM   #236
firebrick
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I think my harmonizer arrived at my house before I even ordered it! Fast shipping! Cant wait to try it out.
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Old 09-24-2011, 11:46 AM   #237
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Originally Posted by Grok View Post
Thanks for the feedback!

Glad you like it
No problem, the one improvement I would like on the 4 cylinder model, is maybe to make the housing a bit more robust.
Maybe I'm wrong, but, I don't think this one would fare too well if I dropped it.
I really don't want to find out though.
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Old 09-24-2011, 02:01 PM   #238
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No problem, the one improvement I would like on the 4 cylinder model, is maybe to make the housing a bit more robust.
Maybe I'm wrong, but, I don't think this one would fare too well if I dropped it.
I really don't want to find out though.
During the field-testing phase Jim VonBaden tested one to destruction. He had to literally throw it across the garage multiple times before the display broke off of the circuit board. I think he got the swivel hook to break by hitting it just right, but the housing was never cracked.

It's a lot more robust than you might think !
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Old 09-25-2011, 11:22 AM   #239
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Thumb Works like a champ!

I ordered a Harmonizer to sync the throttle bodies on my Super Tenere. It arrived a few days later. Once I had the unit hooked up, it took about a minute for me to sync them (and I'm a bike maintanence n00b).

Great product.
Works as advertised.
Easy to use.

Now if I could just find the off button...
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Old 09-25-2011, 12:53 PM   #240
Grok OP
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I ordered a Harmonizer to sync the throttle bodies on my Super Tenere. It arrived a few days later. Once I had the unit hooked up, it took about a minute for me to sync them (and I'm a bike maintanence n00b).

Great product.
Works as advertised.
Easy to use.

Now if I could just find the off button...
Thanks for the feedback!
There is a "power off" option in the menu.
The unit will also automatically turn itself off after 5 minutes of inactivity in case you forget!
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