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Old 07-17-2011, 03:50 PM   #136
DirtJack
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhula View Post
While I've mucked around in TuneEcu a little, I've never watched what the maps do once you put it in gear and then release the clutch lever. The reason I mention this is because on my bike when I do this, the revs increase a little (~100-200rpm) and then once you pull the clutch lever back in the revs go back down to normal idle. I've seen this while the bike is no the centre stand but can't comment while normal riding.
I've not checked as to whether this is due to the clutch switch doing something or the engine sensing a load (via MAP for example) and increasing revs. Checking this may be difficult as TuneEcu from what I can see doesn't appear to follow changes on the L maps as it does on the F maps.
My suggestions would be that the stand switch - no probs. Clutch switch - maybe not a good idea but would certainly get you home. Perhaps a small toggle switch to bypass a broken clutch switch would be a way to get home if the worst was to happen.
Most (not sure this applies to the one Triumph uses in the XC) Keihin ECU's use the clutch switch when the bike is in gear, rpm's higher than a certain value and the throttle is closed to select between idle map (clutch pulled) and cutting all fuel to injectors (clutch not pulled). Given the interaction of the clutch switch with other sensor inputs, it is not easy to defeat.
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Old 07-17-2011, 04:52 PM   #137
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Originally Posted by Foot dragger View Post
I was thinking the same thing,the OP says he has a DRZ in the stable though.
Id have a hard time dropping that much cash on a big Street oriented 3 cylinder bike and then burying it in a mud hole straight off. I guess Ive never been drawn to big off road bikes,I think my DR is way too big for dragging through ugly woods trails. The Tiger does look neat with all the rough/tough off road stuff on it.
I will have a Triumph Triple at some point,the 1200 Trophy Ive got now is a kick!
I guess my logic is a little different. As mentioned earlier, I like riding big bikes in the dirt but even if I only planned on using the bike on dirt roads, I still want the dirt credentials to access out of the way places. Sure, you can get a long way on a road bike but dirt roads can quickly turn into quagmires with a bit of rain (and we have had a lot of that lately) and I reckon a capable dirt bike is good insurance. I am heading west on a 5,000km desert ride next month and I really wanted to see what the bike was capable of before planning a route that will include multiple dirt legs of 500km's or more. Maybe we are lucky in Oz to have access to these kinds of spaces and that is why you find so many of the "Adventure bikes" being used extensively in the dirt
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Old 07-17-2011, 05:20 PM   #138
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Originally Posted by G-Funk View Post
As far as DRZs go, which I've had one, and will probably have another at some point in the near future ....... this ....... this is what I'd consider the shit, when it comes to a DRZ, and the owner, and poster of the build thread, are in the OP's neck of the woods.
We are pretty fond of the DRZ's in Australia, to the point where they are one of the biggest selling bikes in the country. Mine isn't as trick as that one but I have had a few over the years and have had a lot of fun with them .




Burren Rider screwed with this post 07-17-2011 at 07:19 PM
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Old 07-17-2011, 05:46 PM   #139
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Originally Posted by glitch_oz View Post
Hi Danny
Love the thread...great posts!!
Thanks for the effort taken
Re: sidestand switch...Rather than bypassing the switch, how about just re-locating it.... out of harms way, that is.

Like this perhaps (on a DL)


Didn't mess with any electronics to just make a little alum bracket, bolt the switch onto that, then re-route the cable to make the whole shebang sit unter a side-panel, away from sticks and mud.
That is brilliant. I have been debating removing the switch. Your idea is much better.
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Old 07-18-2011, 07:28 AM   #140
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This weekend I removed the spent Battlewings from my Tiger and mounted up some more aggressive tires.

I put a Kenda Big Block in front:


And a Shinko 705 on the back:


That Kenda front felt really squirrelly at first -- vague, unstable, and prone to head shake. After a 300-mile street ride with some sportbike-riding friends, the little molding hairs were still clinging on tenaciously, and I realized they were the culprits. There are four per tread block; I cut them off Saturday evening, and when I went for a ride yesterday, the front end felt much better.

--mark
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Old 07-18-2011, 12:50 PM   #141
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Originally Posted by DRTrev View Post
Now isn't that a bloody simple but very efective idea.....well done Sir
Nice bracket, but, NOT necessary on Tiger as the plunger compressed is the side stand in use (down). Engage gear with the side stand down and engine cuts out.

I've just fed mine up and zip tied it to a cable tidy just above the top end of the gear change rod. Works a charm.
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Old 07-18-2011, 02:12 PM   #142
Mercury264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KildareMan View Post
Nice bracket, but, NOT necessary on Tiger as the plunger compressed is the side stand in use (down). Engage gear with the side stand down and engine cuts out.

I've just fed mine up and zip tied it to a cable tidy just above the top end of the gear change rod. Works a charm.
Good to know
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Old 07-18-2011, 02:23 PM   #143
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Thumb Tiger 800 XC

Man, I love this Bike!!!...
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Old 07-18-2011, 05:17 PM   #144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burren Rider View Post
We are pretty fond of the DRZ's in Australia, to the point where they are one of the biggest selling bikes in the country. Mine isn't as trick as that one but I have had a few over the years and have had a lot of fun with them .



Please know I was not inferring that your DRZ was inferior in any way. Mine wasn't that trick either. I just think the OP of the Rallye DRZ did a great job on his build up.

In fact I still have the thread subscribed so I can review from time to time. Really, IMHO, the only thing lacking with the DRZ is that it's a 5 speed, and not 6. Why Suzuki did that with the DR350, and didn't carry it over to the DRZ is beyond me.

Though - This is an 800xc build thread, and not a DRZ build thread so to get back on track, I think what you've done with yours is sweet.

Right now, the only real thing I'm researching out is crash bars and the bash plate, for when I get mine. The OEM Triumph "upgraded" bash plate looks nice, but so does the sw-motech one. As for crash bars I was just going to get the OEM Triumph ones, until I saw the H.B. lower, and, upper bars. Then I saw the Happy Trails unit, which handles both the lower end as well as the upper end. So at the moment, I'm deciding between either of those two.

Tire wise, I thought is either TKC-80s, which I'm quite use to, or - either - E09 Dakars, or the Mich. T63 for a rear and an E09 up front. I know a few peeps that run the Mich. T63 on the rear of their Africa Twins with a TKC or E09-D up front, and the AT is 100 lbs heavier than the 800xc.

Again, thanks for the write up, it is helping me quite a bit, and I haven't even bought mine yet.

G.

EDIT: One other thing - have you thought about an aux fuel tank on the left hand side since the 800xc is a 3 into 1? Or, would you just go with like rotopax (correct manufacturer?) to carry additional fuel for extended long off-road trips? Your thoughts?
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Old 07-18-2011, 07:09 PM   #145
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Originally Posted by G-Funk View Post
Please know I was not inferring that your DRZ was inferior in any way.
No worries, I certainly didn't take it that way. I really attached to the mighty DRZ so any excuse is a good one to post a few photo's . That is one really nice DRZ and I reckon it would be very competitive in the long distance rallies it was set up for

Quote:
Originally Posted by G-Funk View Post
One other thing - have you thought about an aux fuel tank on the left hand side since the 800xc is a 3 into 1? Or, would you just go with like rotopax (correct manufacturer?) to carry additional fuel for extended long off-road trips? Your thoughts?
At this stage I am probably going to run a bladder of some description for the desert trip in August and then look at the Aqualine tank when it comes out. They are looking at a capacity of around 30 Litres at this stage but production is still a fair way off.
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Old 07-18-2011, 07:13 PM   #146
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Originally Posted by markbvt View Post
That Kenda front felt really squirrelly at first -- vague, unstable, and prone to head shake. After a 300-mile street ride with some sportbike-riding friends, the little molding hairs were still clinging on tenaciously, and I realized they were the culprits. There are four per tread block; I cut them off Saturday evening, and when I went for a ride yesterday, the front end felt much better.
G'Day Mark,

That front looks pretty good for a road legal tyre. Interesting that the trimming made a difference, wonder if that explains why some tyres feel sketchy for the first 500km's?

Cheers,

Danny
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Old 07-18-2011, 07:44 PM   #147
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Photo's of the home made Fender raising brackets. I went for a 20mm lift and in my typical fashion of over engineering everything, placed an additional bolt through the fork guards into the extra lug on the forks.




The result is a big increase in clearance for the front tyre.

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Old 07-18-2011, 07:46 PM   #148
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An SW Motech GPS bracket makes way for the GPS and it seems to fit nicely into the scheme of things. Although fairly basic, the rubber damping system appears to work well and the GPS sat there perfectly in the dirt.

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Old 07-19-2011, 01:16 AM   #149
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Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
This is a good, cheap and effective safety device. We put cable safety snakes on our enduro and dirt bikes for years. It saves your shift or brake lever catching on a stiff branch or lose barbed wire and bending it in a full U turn while flipping you over the bars.

Nice idea ... and one I hope anyone who rides off road will consider. Many of us have seen shift levers torn clean off in a fall or by catching something along the trail. Magic little cable really works to prevent that. CheerS!
Glad to be of assistance.
My cheap versions are made from a peddle cycle brake cable (2.80), which has a nipple at each end. So you can do both levers with one cable. And an electric cable connector as you can see in the picture. There's enough clamping power in those two screws for it to work as I proved a while back on my Triumph Scrambler. I also used a piece of plastic tube over the cable to stop the cable rubbing the crash bars away.
P.S. I've turned it around now so that the excess cable is pointing rearwards.
P.P.S. remember to leave enough slack that the lever does what it was designed to do.
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Old 07-19-2011, 05:31 AM   #150
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all very interesting info, thanks everyone.
I'm craving a bike like this for gravel roads & jeep trails.
It would have to do some 2-up duty to get by the VP Finance.
How's the passenger accomodations?
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