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Old 09-27-2011, 08:04 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DLH View Post
I'm really liking those Rigid D2s. Pricey for sure, but thats ok as long as they do what I need.
I've got a ride planned for November--LA-to-Barstow-to-Vegas which will involve some desert night riding.
What is your guys opinion:
1) How do the D2s compare to the standard LEDs? Specifically, the Dually vs D2?
2) Is it worth the extra cost?

Thx
I don't have the standard lamp to compare to, but the D2's are bright as I could ever ask a bike lamp to be (in tandem). They have zero warm-up time compared to HID's (which I have in the headlight). I think they will do the job for you in night riding.

Duane
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Old 09-27-2011, 08:36 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowinfastout View Post
I don't have the standard lamp to compare to, but the D2's are bright as I could ever ask a bike lamp to be (in tandem). They have zero warm-up time compared to HID's (which I have in the headlight). I think they will do the job for you in night riding.

Duane
Thanks Duane
Few more questions if you don't mind.
How did you wire the lights in?
I see on BDCW site they offer three versions of the D2: Driving, Flood, and Combination of Driving/Flood. Not sure what this means?

Thanks
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Old 01-09-2012, 04:35 PM   #33
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Hi Guys. I'm resurrecting this thread in hopes that there is some more collective experience now with these Rigid lights.

I need to do something about the horrible lighting on my 05.5 950 Adv. I have the stock U.S. Headlight and bulbs. Was considering the Euro upgrade with HID but I've been reading a lot about the Rigids and think that is the way to go.

I have a few questions that don't seem to be fully answered in this thread:

* Does anyone have any experience between the D2's and the Dually's? If money is not an option the D2's seem like the way to go, but I am curious about the Dually's since they're about half the price.

* Can an inline switch be wired so that the Rigid's don't have to be on at the same time as the stock lights? If so, are there recommendations on a handlebar mounted aftermarket switch (I understand there is a Euro switch that some have used that provides the option of turning it off separately?)?

* Where is the best place to tie into power? It seems the easiest would be to one of the ACC fues in the glove box, but someone said these aren't designed to manage the load of the headlights? At only 15W a piece, is that really the case?

* If you don't wire to the ACC plug...what considerations need to taken into account to wire from the battery? Are there other circuits that are "switched" with the ignition so you don't mistakenly leave the lights on and drain the battery when the bike is off?

Sorry for all the questions, but just want do this right :)
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Old 01-09-2012, 06:10 PM   #34
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Firing problems.

Quote:
Originally Posted by O.C.F.RIDER View Post
I've got HID's high & low also, and I've also got firing problems (got the euro on/off light switch). I've got to keep switching the switch on & off like crazy until the things fire. Quite the PITA.
Chris
I had similar starting problems. I never start the engine with lights on. When the starting procedure has finished, the HID lights up nicely. When I had problems, tried to find a better place to mount the ballast. Didn't accomplish much, but when I put the covers on the bike, the lights work perfectly. It seems moving them slightly, can make a difference. They also need to keep away from the ECU.

Cheers.
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Old 01-09-2012, 06:52 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mknight View Post
Hi Guys. I'm resurrecting this thread in hopes that there is some more collective experience now with these Rigid lights.

I need to do something about the horrible lighting on my 05.5 950 Adv. I have the stock U.S. Headlight and bulbs. Was considering the Euro upgrade with HID but I've been reading a lot about the Rigids and think that is the way to go.

I have a few questions that don't seem to be fully answered in this thread:

* Does anyone have any experience between the D2's and the Dually's? If money is not an option the D2's seem like the way to go, but I am curious about the Dually's since they're about half the price.
>>> I went with the D2s. Have not seen the Duallys. I figured I would be second guessing myself so just sprung for the higher end product. Glad I did.

* Can an inline switch be wired so that the Rigid's don't have to be on at the same time as the stock lights? If so, are there recommendations on a handlebar mounted aftermarket switch (I understand there is a Euro switch that some have used that provides the option of turning it off separately?)?
>>> Yes, you could wire an inline switch (the kit I bought from BDCW came with a waterproof switch and relay). I didn't use the supplied switch, I wired the relay into the the ACC circuit (switched) for power and tied it to the high-beam switch on the handlebar: that way the D2s are not on until I hit the high-beams.

* Where is the best place to tie into power? It seems the easiest would be to one of the ACC fues in the glove box, but someone said these aren't designed to manage the load of the headlights? At only 15W a piece, is that really the case?
>>> I haven't experienced any issues tying power into the ACC circuit.

* If you don't wire to the ACC plug...what considerations need to taken into account to wire from the battery? Are there other circuits that are "switched" with the ignition so you don't mistakenly leave the lights on and drain the battery when the bike is off?
>>> I thought about wiring direct to the battery. If so I would go through the relay (power) and use a handlebar switch to actuate the relay via a switched power source (like one of the ACC circuits). I did this on my Husky for some extra lighting and it works fine.

Sorry for all the questions, but just want do this right :)
Good Luck!!!
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Old 01-09-2012, 09:38 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mknight View Post

* Can an inline switch be wired so that the Rigid's don't have to be on at the same time as the stock lights? If so, are there recommendations on a handlebar mounted aftermarket switch (I understand there is a Euro switch that some have used that provides the option of turning it off separately?)?

* Where is the best place to tie into power? It seems the easiest would be to one of the ACC fues in the glove box, but someone said these aren't designed to manage the load of the headlights? At only 15W a piece, is that really the case?

* If you don't wire to the ACC plug...what considerations need to taken into account to wire from the battery? Are there other circuits that are "switched" with the ignition so you don't mistakenly leave the lights on and drain the battery when the bike is off?
Sure, use a PIAA fog/driving lamp switch/relay/harness. They're excellent and have the relay built in, and the switch is waterproof. Buy one on EBAY or I think Black Dog Cycle Works sells the harness/switch. I used a bicycle rear reflector downtube mount for my mounting bracket for the PIAA switch next to the left handlebar so I could 'thumb it' easily.

Run the LED'S to the battery and tie off to the crash bars. You want battery direct to actually push the lights themselves. (power will actually go to the relay, and the relay will forward to the lights themselves)

Power to the relay off a switched hot leads at the ACC plug under the headlight.

I took some detail wiring shots of the routing. Because the crash bars have to come off for oil changes, I located them so that the quick disconnects of the Rigid lights allow everything to stay intact with cutting just one zip tip each time the bars have to come off. You can see the details in the photos, highlighted in green.

These are not hard to install, using the PIAA wiring harness makes it much quicker and easier.
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Old 01-09-2012, 09:39 PM   #37
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Old 01-09-2012, 09:40 PM   #38
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Old 01-09-2012, 09:40 PM   #39
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Old 01-10-2012, 08:18 AM   #40
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Great pictures. Thanks for taking the time to post the detail. This will prove very helpful for myself, but I'm sure many others. I've not yet purchased the lights, but when I do, I'll probably come back to this thread for a few questions and post pictures of my experience that will hopefully be helpful to others.

The only part I'm still a little confused about is the "relay". If the lights are being powered directly from the battery, how does the switch work? That's probably a stupid question, but with my basic electrical knowledge I thought the switch had to be "inline" between the power source and the light?
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Old 01-10-2012, 09:14 AM   #41
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Glad to help, and there is no such thing as a stupid question! That's what these forums are all about. I learn PLENTY from others here and am always glad to share as well.

When you install any aux lights such as these, they draw amps/wattage that frequently overpower some little 15 amp fuse line you might be tempted to tap into for power to the lights themselves. That overtaxes the system and the fuse can blow. It's better to go right to the battery where you can mainline the the power and run an in-line fuse to the lights themselves rather than piggy-backing. The PIAA harness/wiring kit has the in-line fuse built in so you don't have to mess with putting one into the power line to your lights.

One nice thing about LED's is they consume so little power when they're on, they don't tax the alternator system. Some bikes like BMW GS'es have huge, car-like alternators and its a moot point, but the KTM isn't designed for running a whole lot of electrical gizmos at ones like the BMW's (GPS, Heated Grips, Satellite Radio, Aux Lights, iPhone Charger, etc) so power management becomes part of your buying decision as well in lights. You can look up the wattage draws and do the math - but as I recall from memory the Dually DH2's have about 20% the power draw of a set of similar Hella HID's which really takes the load off the charging system on the bike.

Once you have power to the lights, you need to energize your switch and relay. A relay is simply a way to start an electrical device on your command, rather than having it come on with the ignition. You really don't want all your power draw items coming on when the key is switched on anyways as it takes away battery power to start the bike. Hence the relay - think of it as a switchable delay device that you control with the on/off button for the lights themselves.
So with these kind of lights you're really tapping into two 12v power sources as follows:

1) Dually DH2's > Power Source 1 > Direct to Battery via relay

2) Relay & Switch > To Power Source 2 > Energized by the ignition

The relay and on/off switch require very little power, so its OK to piggy back them onto an existing circuit or in the case of the KTM 950/990 use that ACC plug which is perfect as it only puts out 12v in the line when the key is on. Once you tap into the # 2 12v source, that power is actually going to the relay. The relay will power your on/off switch and also control the 12v going to the lights themselves as a 'pass through' of the current.

I actually have the PIAA relay all tucked in by the battery down low on my bike (battery is inside the skid plate area). There was room down there to tuck the excess wiring, in-line fuse, and relay all around the battery location and zip tie them off. I just realize it looks confusing on my photos as I don't show where the relay is - because its hidden on my bike. All references to >going to battery< from the lights really mean going to the relay which is right next to my battery.

One tool you will want to buy if you don't have it is a 12v test light probe like this - they are cheap and let you know what line is carrying your 12v:

http://www.stu-offroad.com/electrica.../testlight.htm

Here's the PIAA wiring harness - sometimes they will pop up on EBAY for around $ 30 if you get lucky, but this the one you want as the on/off switch is waterproof:

http://www.twistedthrottle.com/trade...FYPc4AodgH8Q_g

Its a good mod. You'll like the increased lighting and you have a number of mounting options on the 950/990. All that's really important in mounting is they be rigid and tight, other than that you can choose a crash bar mount where the lights are most visible to oncoming traffic as a "3-point" triangle of light, or tuck them up under the fairing, or even do fork clamp mount.

Good luck,
Duane

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Old 01-10-2012, 10:42 AM   #42
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All great information, and once again, thanks for taking the time to write up the details. I'm moderately adept with basic electrical troubleshooting on my bikes, and have a 12V tester that I've used on many occasions, but I was just confused by the relay, but your explanation makes sense.

Thanks for the heads up on the PIAA switch on ebay. I just made the purchase :)

Now I just need to get the rest of the money for the D2's and some quality time in the garage ;)
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Old 01-10-2012, 10:52 AM   #43
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I also bought the PIAA harness and decided in the end not to use it (didn't like the little switch). I simply have the D2's relay switched with the high beams.
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Old 01-10-2012, 12:07 PM   #44
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One other question for anyone with the D2's. Would you recommend the "Driving" pattern light or the "Wide" pattern light, or maybe a combo of both?

My assumption is the Driving Pattern, but just curious of the experience of anyone else.
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Old 01-10-2012, 02:48 PM   #45
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Originally, I was going to get the flood pattern (wide) thinking the primary use was to illuminate the path around the bike. Kurt at Black Dog convinced me that the driving pattern was the better one so I went with his advice. Boy, he was right!
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