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Old 08-10-2011, 07:42 AM   #76
BulletProof
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Location: Scenic Hudson Valley
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So I guess I'll pcik up where we left off.

After a full evening of tom-foolery, we head up to BW's shanty to weigh in and fiddled some. First objective was getting the thing to move. Both brakes were pretty stuck. We made short work of removing front and rear calipers and gave the pistons a look see (dual opposed piston calipers!). One kinda moved and the others, well, didnt. To celebrate we wheeled it around the yard making motor noises.




Not much else was accomplished as time was limited by an unnerving weather forecast.
I did learn that BW has a soft spot for this luggage rack....




and WTF is this thing for?



Mitsubishi relay?



POs maintenance log

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Old 08-16-2011, 07:01 AM   #77
YZman
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Blood I had the strangest dream last night. I dreamed that I finially fired up my BSA last night.... and it sounded just like a 2-stroke RD350


And it sounded gooooodddd...
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Old 08-16-2011, 10:22 AM   #78
Stagehand
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bloodweiser View Post
The dump I go to weighs your truck before and after it takes a dump.
I feel like if we went there on a weekday they'd happily weigh the bikes, I mean, all they got to do is read the number after we drive on the scale. Maybe we should each bring a bag of garbage with us

I agree with using the published stock weight as a start.
But somehow it would seem more gratifying to weigh every piece that we remove. Sounds like we'll be going through a couple bathroom scales

Who knows. But right, BP and I are going to get wicked hammered this weekend when I bring his bike down. This will be the first time he sees it and the first time we've been able to get together since we came up with this hair brained scheme.
As said, it will be far more accurate if the wheels are at the same height. the lower extremity will always have a hair more weight than the higher one.

Think of it like, two guys holding a beam on each end. If the beam is horizontal, both guys are sharing the load equally, but if the beam is vertical, one guy has the whole load and the other guy has none. If the beam is 45deg, the lower guy will be taking about twice the weight of the upper guy.

So jam a 2x4 under the wheel not being weighed at the time so they are the same height.

It might be close enough for your purposes to ignore me completely, though I would not be offended. But I would hate to see you have dubious measurements when points are involved.
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Old 08-16-2011, 10:40 AM   #79
Mudhen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand View Post
Think of it like, two guys holding a beam on each end. If the beam is horizontal, both guys are sharing the load equally, but if the beam is vertical, one guy has the whole load and the other guy has none. If the beam is 45deg, the lower guy will be taking about twice the weight of the upper guy.
"I don't want you to hurt your back, honey...I'll take the hard part bending over, you get the downward side of the TV when we go up the stairs'...

Great thread guys. Enjoying the fun.

Pat
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Old 08-16-2011, 09:44 PM   #80
WhorehayTheBarbarian
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This thread is awesome..

Me and a friend began a similar competition a couple years ago. We ended up with a couple heavily modified and very different bikes for about $2k each. (neither one are realiable runners to this day)
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Old 10-05-2011, 08:17 PM   #81
anonny
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Updates?
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Old 10-10-2011, 05:49 PM   #82
2whl-hoop
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Location: Cottage Grove, the ragged edge of suburbia, MN
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Quote:
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hehehehehehehehe.................................. ...141 MPH,45 MPG (on a good day)with 40K miles and all but 1601 are mine.



141 mph?!? Only off a cliff.
Sweet bike, though.
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Old 10-16-2011, 04:42 PM   #83
Bloodweiser OP
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Yeah, updates

Motor is out and on the workbench.




I really haven't had much time to play.
Trying to figure myself out a game plan before I get sidetracked.
One of my pistons had some kid of seizure I guess.





Shame. I was really hoping to get by without an overbore and some new pistons.
It's cool, one of the rings is like welded to the piston.
But the scoring, both on the cyl and piston, are clearly evident
and even a man of my limited decency would feel guilt about using them again.
Oh well.


I'm planning on doing the motor during my winter break from college.
I've got until then to tear down and make a parts list.
Manageable goals.

What else is going through my head, is a bit of guilt for planning on defacing such a nice example of an RD.
I mean, someone tell me there's a ton of these out there and to keep on chooglin'.




Calling all 2 stroke nerds:

1. 11,xxx miles - should I budget in a crank rebuild? Read that if a crank is removed it should be checked.

2. What's the poor boy's method of cleaning ports?

3. Anybody remember how to get the stator off?

4. Recommendations on electronic ignitions? Damn shit is pricey.
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Old 10-16-2011, 07:38 PM   #84
anonny
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I would at least plan on doing crank seals, infact it could be the very reason your piston is toast Old seals leak air which causes lean seizes.

And because the crank has to come apart to do the seals do you really want to scrimp and not do the bearings?

Busting it apart a second time to do bearings would really suck.
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Old 10-16-2011, 09:58 PM   #85
WhorehayTheBarbarian
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I cant imagine doing the whole motor would cost a whole lot. THeres about a billion of these bikes out there and plenty of parts available.

You may also consider trying a industrial supplier for the bearings sometimes you can get a heck of a deal from them.

But in the spirit of the competition.... Break the ring free with a file.... sand down the piston until smooth and throw some new rings on it. It will run. I actually know a guy that did this on the side of the highway during a cross country trip and the bike made it the distance!!!!


The electric ignition sure beats playing around with the points when you don't have to .....
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Old 10-29-2011, 06:53 AM   #86
Bloodweiser OP
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I'm not sure if we made all of our rules public,
we are very disorganized people.

Somewhere along the lines,
we decided we needed to make some sort of stipulation to get the project moving.
I mean, otherwise we might just start playing the game
instead of building bikes.
Like right now, I've got a few points ahead of BP and the end of the year is coming.
If we didn't change anything, I should not touch my bike until 2012
if I don't want to loose this year.

We talked about creating incentives,
and stimulus packages....
but what we decided was any $$ spent to get the bike running (initially)
would not be counted against anyone.
Upgrades not included. Stock replacement parts only.
So we created a window of opportunity,
to at least get our bikes running.


Caddieshack - expect to hear from us soon
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Old 11-01-2011, 07:52 AM   #87
YZman
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How about less rules and more build???

I needs a nasty greasy bike picture fix
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Old 11-01-2011, 08:25 AM   #88
nuggets
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YZman View Post
How about less rules and more build???

I needs a nasty greasy bike picture fix
-10 points/week for no build update
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Old 11-01-2011, 02:07 PM   #89
Al Tuna
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nuggets View Post
-10 points/week for no build update
+ 10 points for women and smoke updates

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Old 01-21-2012, 07:06 AM   #90
Bloodweiser OP
honestly
 
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I was hoping to be a bit further along than this....
whatever.


Been just pulling shit apart,
for reasons no greater than boredom and curiosity.
And I am curious, about this bearing plate or something
that covers the center shaft. My manual makes no mention:



Fucking phillip bastards are holding fast too.
I'm going after those later today, and then the cases will be split.
And I'm not sure why I'm doing that either.

I'm at an impasse, and am having a bastard of a time deciding on direction.
Do I rebuild the crank, bore the cylinders and get new pistons now?
Or, in the spirit of competition, run a destroy first?
I could really use input on this.
I've been mulling this over for months
and have reached no conclusion.


On one hand:
motor is out,
it's winter
my crank is sqeaky (uh, they're not supposed to do that, right?)
and $300 would take care of business.

On the other hand:
that's $300.
I could just sand the pistons,
hone the cylinders,
re-ring and be done with it.

Probably going with the other hand,
although squeakers the crank is making me thing otherwise.





Onward.





This caught my attention.
Gouges on the cylinder's mating surface,
though there appears to be no sign of leakage.
I'll probably leave it alone for now,
maybe build it up with some JB if it proves to be a bastard.





And lastly, for now,
clutch hub is rather notchy.
does wet sanding sound like a decent idea?





More to come.
I'm getting back into the swing of this shit,
and am only taking 2 classes this semester,
and spring is approaching fast.
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