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Old 08-07-2011, 09:12 AM   #91
wrk2surf
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I have been using the bib lube on my tubes for 2 yrs now and have found it really keeps the tube in really good shape and hardly any shedding or shaving off.... much better than talc or powder..
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Old 08-08-2011, 06:48 AM   #92
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Ok, so I lied...not good photos yet. Busy weekend and the bike is just about done. The rally raid tank install is a little confusing but almost done and the wiring harness is hooked up. Lots of little things were done and I did mount tires on both rear wheels...albeit with enduro mousses not rally mousses. Hope to map the computer tonight and run the bike.
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Old 08-08-2011, 08:11 AM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth S View Post
...and the wiring harness is hooked up.
Hiya Seth. Just a little note about a detail that seems to cause issues every year. Take care of the requirements for the high level dust light. It must be on at all times the engine is running and not able to be switched off. This means that using a normal tail-light circuit through the switch block doesn't cut the mustard and will fail at machine examination. It may not be an issue for you if US market bikes have always on running lights or something, but it always creates problems here.
Cheers
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Old 08-08-2011, 08:14 AM   #94
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Originally Posted by JayBo1 View Post
Hiya Seth. Just a little note about a detail that seems to cause issues every year. Take care of the requirements for the high level dust light. It must be on at all times the engine is running and not able to be switched off. This means that using a normal tail-light circuit through the switch block doesn't cut the mustard and will fail at machine examination. It may not be an issue for you if US market bikes have always on running lights or something, but it always creates problems here.
Cheers
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thanks for the warning. The way my headlight is wired through the stock wiring has the high or low beam on all the time and the LED tail/brake light on as well. But to be extra careful I picked up a decent sized LED trailer light to mount on top of the rear fender which will be wired in to the ignition switch...its a low power draw and looks like a brake light.
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Old 08-08-2011, 08:16 AM   #95
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here is a screen shot of the Parts unlimited catalog (I can get stuff through here through my local shop for a deal...keeps costs down). Anyways, its a little hard to tell which if any are the rally mousse.



Ahhh...wait a minute the "BM-55" is the 140/90/18 which is what the MO2 is listed as elsewhere...that must be the rally mousse. So I bet the 0350-006 is the rally front...is there a rally front?
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Old 08-08-2011, 08:21 AM   #96
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Originally Posted by Seth S View Post
thanks for the warning. The way my headlight is wired through the stock wiring has the high or low beam on all the time and the LED tail/brake light on as well. But to be extra careful I picked up a decent sized LED trailer light to mount on top of the rear fender which will be wired in to the ignition switch...its a low power draw and looks like a brake light.
Worst case Seth, just run a lead from the head stock aux power points. As I recall, you'll have an ignition hot and a battery hot, so the ignition hot will endure that it's on when the bike is on.
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Old 08-08-2011, 08:24 AM   #97
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Looks good!
From an electrical stand point, I would recommend placing a high capacity capacitor parallel to your battery. This will ensure that should your battery die, your remaining electrical components won't die as well from the electrical spikes coming from the charging unit!
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Old 08-08-2011, 08:24 AM   #98
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Worst case Seth, just run a lead from the head stock aux power points. As I recall, you'll have an ignition hot and a battery hot, so the ignition hot will endure that it's on when the bike is on.

Yes, the "Aux" wiring connections....good idea.
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Old 08-08-2011, 08:27 AM   #99
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Looks good!
From an electrical stand point, I would recommend placing a high capacity capacitor parallel to your battery. This will ensure that should your battery die, your remaining electrical components won't die as well from the electrical spikes coming from the charging unit!
I am not sure that the bike will even run if the battery dies....and there is no kick start so no chance of starting. Crank recommended getting a Lithium Iron battery as a backup...sound right?
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Old 08-08-2011, 08:27 AM   #100
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Looks good!
From an electrical stand point, I would recommend placing a high capacity capacitor parallel to your battery. This will ensure that should your battery die, your remaining electrical components won't die as well from the electrical spikes coming from the charging unit!
With all the things Seth has going on, do you feel that the battery is really the weakest link in the rally chain? How about a brand new Shorai battery?
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Old 08-08-2011, 08:30 AM   #101
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The M02 Desert Mousses I have here still in their boxes are 140/80x18 and 140/90x18, so that would suggest the BM-54 or BM-54. The label on the boxes have both sizes so I think either one is okay depending on the tyre you use. Different brands and models of tyres are more or less difficult to mount up. Michelin Desert Mousses (M02) work brilliantly in Michelin Desert tyres. I have tried fitting M02 Mousse into a different brand tyre, but same size as Desert, and it was damn near impossible. If you want simple, stress free life - use Michelin M02 with Michelin Desert rear tyre. Front is much more open because there is only the same enduro Mousse with no "Desert" or "Rally" option.

The enduro Mousse's are M18 for rear and 120/90x18 and 100/100x18 so once again can be used in a range of tyre sizes.

I'll check with my tyre supplier here about those "BM" numbers as I've never come across anything but M02, M18 and M14 Mousses.
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Old 08-08-2011, 08:31 AM   #102
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With all the things Seth has going on, do you feel that the battery is really the weakest link in the rally chain? How about a brand new Shorai battery?

my thought is that the bike has worked fine for the last 3 years. the biggest risk I truly have is due to tearing it down and rebuilding it. The likelyhood of not torquing one bolt or having disturbed a wire somewhere is more of a risk I think. While I agree that a rally will put a lot of stress on rider and machine I know we have done some long weekends of riding with no hint of any issues. Aside from possibly a new battery I dont think i am going to go crazy this year wiring anything extra. This will be my first event with the sole goal of finishing and determing what should be different for the next one. Crank and I have already been talking about a new wiring harness design.
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Old 08-08-2011, 08:34 AM   #103
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The Shorai batteries look pretty cool and very compact...the extra space would work well for tools. Or I/you could wire two batteries in parallel Out of stock until August 18th...but thats directly from the company

http://www.shoraipower.com/p-152-lfx14a2-bs12.aspx
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Old 08-08-2011, 08:35 AM   #104
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Originally Posted by crankshaft View Post
Worst case Seth, just run a lead from the head stock aux power points. As I recall, you'll have an ignition hot and a battery hot, so the ignition hot will endure that it's on when the bike is on.
If the 690 has an ignition switch you're easily sorted. I had same on my 640A. Just switch the dust light with the ignition. Too easy.
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Old 08-08-2011, 08:39 AM   #105
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Originally Posted by Seth S View Post
The Shorai batteries look pretty cool and very compact...the extra space would work well for tools. Or I/you could wire two batteries in parallel Out of stock until August 18th...but thats directly from the company

http://www.shoraipower.com/p-152-lfx14a2-bs12.aspx
Transalp Dave might have one and I can grab it from him in WV this weekend and drop it off on my way home.
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