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Old 07-12-2012, 10:12 PM   #136
JagLite
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Question David? Are you still with us?

Almost a year since your last post.
What happened?
Are you OK?

No news is not always good news.
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Old 07-22-2012, 01:10 PM   #137
motodavid2000 OP
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Thumb Suzuki DR650 Build - Adventure Bike / Update

Quote:
Originally Posted by hendikaf View Post
I am planning to build a DR or XRL for my next cross Africa and was curious to see if any of you measured the clearance on your bike once loaded with gear and rider .

Thanks Hendi
Quote:
Originally Posted by KROOZA View Post
Any updates?

I'm keen to see how this went!
Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
Almost a year since your last post.
What happened?
Are you OK? No news is not always good news.
JagLite --- Long story short is that I spent the winter at my home in Florida and the bike was "napping" in Ohio for the winter months. Once I got back to Ohio in May all hell broke loose with work and I have been totally buried with work and travel obligations.

That said:

1) Hendi - if you check back to this thread (or I may send you a PM) the distance is exactly 9 inches from the ground to the bottom of the skid plate with my 220 pound fat ass on the seat and approx. 50 pounds of gear, plus 5 gallons of fuel.

2) KROOZA - I have been on a limited number of rides in 2012 on the DR650, but I have messed with the suspension settings a little. Bottom line is that bike is now fun to ride and I think I have solved most of the issues of grafting on the Ohlins forks. I will try and raise the fork tubes in the triple clamps a few millimeters at a time to see if that gets rid of a slight weave at highway speed - especially with winds / drafts coming off of traffic & heavy trucks.

3) JagLite - Thanks much for asking. I have been a deliquent POS and was not providing any updates. Slammed with work and just have not had much to report in the way of development due to limited time to ride, experiment and fiddle.

The TM40 carb from ProCycle is a fantastic improvement to throttle response over the CV stock carb, and is smooth running at static throttle settings when cruising at almost any speed.

I have the bike setup at normal ride height, not the lowered setting - impossible with the Ohlins now anyway. The only real gripe I have at this point is the slight weave at highway speeds ~65 mph and up, with winds, gusts, and cross-winds. This may simply be a factor of the fact that the DR650 is a dual sport, is higher / taller, is lighter and may catch more wind with the surface area of the hard panniers.

I need to do much more experimentation and ride the bike much more than I have so far - in varied environments. Street, dirt roads, gravel roads, slippery, wet muddy roads, etc.

The steering head setup with the custom machined steering stem works flawlessly and I have no bearing issues - smooth steering through the full arc of the bars and the Scott's rotary adjustable steering damper works great.

The front fender keeps the spray off and when I rode on the muddy roads it keeps the muddy spray off the front of the bike & headlight very well. Plus it doesn't catch the wind and act like a sail that the stock fender tends to do and pushes the front with the wind.

Headlight setup and LED's with high beam are great and provide superior illumination and add observability to other drivers.

The Shorei lithium-ion battery is excellent. Seven months of idle time and no charging and it rolled the motor better than the stock lead-acid battery. This is a great product IMHO and will be installing them in my other 9 motos in the future as my lead-acid batteries kick the bucket - even with Battery Tenders on them.

I will post more when I have some other info and riding impressions / data - particularly after I drop the triple clamps a few times, at different heights.

Dave
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Old 07-23-2012, 10:54 PM   #138
ThumperStorm
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I thought a steering damper would stop wobbles. Or would it be a lot worse if it wasn't on?
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Old 07-24-2012, 08:33 AM   #139
motodavid2000 OP
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Steering Damper / Weave

Quote:
Originally Posted by ThumperStorm View Post
I thought a steering damper would stop wobbles. Or would it be a lot worse if it wasn't on?
Thumper - no wobbles, head shake or front tire deflections. The real issue is a slight high-speed weave. I suspect the combined effects of a relatively tall bike, metal panniers plus a windscreen is the cause of the slight weave.

I am going to change the fork height in the triple clamps and remove the windscreen to see if that cures the issue.

The steering damper is mainly to stop quick deflections of the front wheel when it hits a rock, a rut, or other obstacle where such a rapid deflection can pitch you off the moto.

Thanks for looking and thanks for the question.

Dave
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Old 07-24-2012, 01:44 PM   #140
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Thumb Hang in there

Thanks for the update.
Good to hear work is keeping you busy.
So many out of work, we need those who can hire more to be busy .
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Old 07-24-2012, 02:00 PM   #141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JagLite View Post
Thanks for the update.
Good to hear work is keeping you busy.
So many out of work, we need those who can hire more to be busy .
JagLite -

Thanks again for the concern ! Believe me, I am trying my very best to continue to win new work and to get more people on our payroll. It has been 7 days per week for awhile, so that is good. Demand levels, overall economic uncertainty and outright fear continue to be the great challenges.

Safe riding !

Take care - Dave
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Old 09-01-2012, 04:51 AM   #142
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Preparations for longer "maiden voyage"

I have been test riding the bike, making some adjustments and also making the final preparations for a slightly longer trip to attend the HUBB Travelers' Meeting in Robbinsville, North Carolina on the 7th of September. I gave a short talk to the group in 2009 regarding my trip to Prudhoe Bay, Alaska on my BMW GS/Adventure.

Several speakers will be there to discuss their ride / trips to & through South America to the southern tip of the South American continent, so I want to attend and listen to their presentations and garner some knowledge on this planned trip. I operated an enduro-style offroad tour company in Costa Rica, Central America and Peru, South America for several years. However, there is much to learn from experienced travelers and I have never ridden in, nor have any experience in Columbia, Chile, Bolivia, Argentina or Brazil.

I am planning on taking backroads most of the way to North Carolina, and that will be an estimated 14 hours of ride-time one way. I plan to ride the Tail of the Dragon again and also to ride some of the many gravel roads in the area.

One of the mods that I had contemplated was a center stand by SW Motech. I was not enthusiastic with the added weight and moving the footpegs slightly further outboard. After everything was considered and the ease of chain maintenance and tire & tube removal / repair / replacement; I decided to install the centerstand vs. some other arrangement. I put the DR650 "piglet" up on my Harbor Freight moto lift and started the installation.........



Note that I safety-wired the springs to the center-stand. Offroad riding can hook something into the spring and pull it off the perch & then it is lost on the trail - never to be seen again. For those contemplating installation, the dual spring is most easily installed using an inexpensive brake spring tool for automobile drum brake return springs. About $7.00 at your local auto parts store - shown in the photo above.



I wanted to install additional rear lighting for safety reasons. I added an LED light bar with six LEDs contained in a weathertight assembly that I found at my local ACE Hardware store. It was wired so that the top box can be removed by pulling apart a simple wiring connector plug under the box.

I also added a set of Hyper-Lites with an array of sixteen LEDs on each side. These are very bright LEDs that flash when braking; and I mounted those underneath the top box but above the tail light. I have a set of these on my BMW GS/Adventure and really like their reliability and visibility to the car & truck drivers behind me.

Lastly I added a 3 liter fuel cannister to the left pannier for some additional on-board fuel capacity. Note that it is mounted on the left pannier away from the exhaust outlet.



This is a better shot of the cockpit area - with the Scott's rotary damper, volt meter, Garmin 550 GPS and the Vapor speedo / tach combo.



I am packing the bike today to assess how much room my tools, clothes, wet weather gear, etc. will take up. I am taking one replacement tube for the rear tire; and a complete tube repair kit and tire irons. I have installed an Alaska Leather sheepskin buttpad specifically made for dual-sport motos. I used an Alaska Leather buttpad during my trip to / from Alaska in 2009 and really liked it.

My old, and rapidly-aging ass is telling me that even with the Sargent seat on the DR650, I need to use some supplemental padding. I am also using bicycle padded underwear - helps my arthritic hips survive a day in the saddle.

High-Speed Weave Solved

I changed the pre-load on my steering head bearings (less pre-load), and also lessened the attack-angle on my windscreen using the Madstad bracket adjustment. Those changes seem to have eliminated my high-speed weave problem on the highway. I did not change the fork pre-load or the fork position in the triple clamps.

Going to take the bike for yet another test ride(s) today after it is fully packed and loaded with my gear.
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Old 09-05-2012, 06:12 AM   #143
thumpididump
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What exactly do you mean by " I changed the pre-load on my steering head bearings (less pre-load), " ?
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Old 09-05-2012, 08:57 AM   #144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motodavid2000
Can we see a better shot of the pivot points?

And, what keeps the stand from pivoting too far forward?

I ask about seeing the pivot points because I'm thinking that the foot peg lowering plates could also incorporate a pivot point for a center stand (that is not permanently attached to the bike - in other words, the center stand is carried, knocked down, until needed).
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Old 09-05-2012, 10:48 AM   #145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638 View Post
Can we see a better shot of the pivot points?

And, what keeps the stand from pivoting too far forward?

I ask about seeing the pivot points because I'm thinking that the foot peg lowering plates could also incorporate a pivot point for a center stand (that is not permanently attached to the bike - in other words, the center stand is carried, knocked down, until needed).
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=811587
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Old 09-05-2012, 12:22 PM   #146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Thanks, I read thru that thread (and re-reading it gives me additional ideas).

But, I wanted to see the SW Motech pivot points and the method that SW Motech uses to keep the stand in the locked/"raised" position.
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Old 09-05-2012, 12:51 PM   #147
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motodavid2000


Dave, when you do gusseting like this, do you cut a slot into the tube, so the gusset slides in or is the gusset just butt welded to the tube?

From an engineering perspective, is there anything to be gained from cutting a slot into the tube so the gusset is actually inside the frame?
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Old 09-10-2012, 01:50 PM   #148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thumpididump View Post
What exactly do you mean by " I changed the pre-load on my steering head bearings (less pre-load), " ?
I just returned today from an approximately 1,500 mile trip to North Carolina at Robbinsville; and attended the Horizons Unlimited travellers meeting there. I also spent some time riding Rt. 129 (Dragon) and Route 28. Lots of backroads going south in Ohio and then took highways the rest of the way south and then back north.

To prepare for this "maiden voyage" of my DR650, I needed to solve my highway speed weave issue. I am using KTM upper and lower triple clamps, a custom machined steering stem and stock Suzuki steering head bearings with a Scotts rotary damper. On the upper triple, loosen the pinch bolt, and back off the main stem nut - I did only 1/4 turn at a time. To add pre-load, tighten the nut. This stem nut pushes the bearings further into the races when tightened, or takes the some of the pressure off of them if you back it off.

My hypothesis is that I had too much pre-load (stem nut too tight), thereby creating some unwanted friction in the steering stem bearings and that made for a "sticky" steering head, not smooth enough through the entire arc of travel. Noticeable at highway speeds, when any direction change at the bars did not translate into instant direction change at the forks / front wheel, then add more input and you get a "weave". I have also changed my Scotts damper settings and they do not affect the steering / stability as much as reducing the pre-load on the bearings. Less steering head bearing pre-load is my theory anyway, and I did not have any issues with the weave during my entire trip.

With the flat-slide TM40, I got a low of 41 mpg at 75+ mph (up to 82 mph according to my GPS) and a high of 52 mpg at lower cruising speeds. I was carrying maybe 65 pounds of gear, tools, clothes, plus a spare tube, plus my fat ass of ~215 pounds. In my opinion, the bike did very well on the trip and, within the limits of the Trailwing dual sport tires, did great on the Dragon as well.

There were only TWO Suzi DR650s represented at the 2012 USA East HUBB meeting. We were in a sea of BMW R1200s and a few KLRs, Ducati MultiStrada's plus a few new Yamaha Tenere's. Where was everyone on a DR who likes long distance travel -- re: South America, Central America and Africa?

Anyway, hope that answered your question and provided my theory on why the change resolved the problem.

Dave
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Old 09-10-2012, 01:52 PM   #149
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Center Stand Stops

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638 View Post
Can we see a better shot of the pivot points?

And, what keeps the stand from pivoting too far forward?

I ask about seeing the pivot points because I'm thinking that the foot peg lowering plates could also incorporate a pivot point for a center stand (that is not permanently attached to the bike - in other words, the center stand is carried, knocked down, until needed).
Bronco -

I am going to change the crankcase oil this week or weekend, and I will try to take a few shots of the centerstand "stops" that prevent the stand from swinging forward when deployed; and will post them for you. The MoTech piece is high quality IMHO.

Dave
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Old 09-10-2012, 02:01 PM   #150
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Gussets

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco638 View Post
Dave, when you do gusseting like this, do you cut a slot into the tube, so the gusset slides in or is the gusset just butt welded to the tube?

From an engineering perspective, is there anything to be gained from cutting a slot into the tube so the gusset is actually inside the frame?
Bronco -

In my opinion, cutting a slot in the frame tube for a gusset plate unnecessarily degrades the tubing's structural integrity; while the butt / fillet weld we used is more than adequate for the purpose we intended -- to reduce the likelihood of tearing, seperating and bending.

- Dave
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