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Old 09-05-2011, 08:18 PM   #91
NuckaMan
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For what it's worth, this has been really inspirational for me.

I too am a engineer (mechanical design for medical devices) and got my walking papers for next May. As long as they don't extend me (cause I will welcome the work) the pink-slip is actually an invitation for either Alaska or South America. If I head north, I will be taking my GS, if I head south, I narrowed my bike choice down to the DR 650. And my choice was based on exactly how you detailed it on Page 2.

I won't have the budget for a build-up even remotely closely as yours...but I will certainly take your frame reinforcement section to heart... I do hope you keep the photos up for awhile for everyone's future reference.

Please keep us updated on your progress and trip!!!!
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Old 09-05-2011, 09:08 PM   #92
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NuckaMan View Post
I won't have the budget for a build-up even remotely closely as yours...but I will certainly take your frame reinforcement section to heart... I do hope you keep the photos up for awhile for everyone's future reference.

Please keep us updated on your progress and trip!!!!
Inspiration indeed. I hope we get some updates soon. This is a beautiful build indeed.

As far as frame reinforcement goes ... David's is very nicely done ... but honestly it's just not required on the DR650. How many broken rear sub frames or broken frames can be sighted? I think David found ONE. (Jammin' Jay) .

I've ridden DR's since 1997 (off and on), owned three. In my 60 member riding group we have six DR650's. We've ridden 10's of thousands of miles in the last 8 years. I've not ever seen or even heard of a broken sub frame of frame. I'm sure it's happened from time to time ... but it's rare. Ask on the BIG DR650 thread. I don't think there is even one reported there among the 50,000 plus posts and 8 million views.

The DR650 is not a KLR 650 or a BMW F650GS ... or a Honda XR650L. All of which commonly break (or bend) frames and sub frames. I've owned the Honda and KLR.
The Suzuki was partly designed by American race team members, Rodney Smith being a key player. In '95 the Suzuki guys were flown to Japan to test the new DR650 and give input. These same guys also helped design the DRZ400 which came a few years later.

Early DR650 prototypes were tested in the Mojave desert and sent back to Japan with notes. I know Rodney Smith (5 time GNCC champion). I asked him about the DR650. His response? "Tough". If you saw him ride a DR650 ... well, you wouldn't believe your eyes I've ridden with Rodney at Fouts Springs ... one of Rodney's hangouts. Can't keep him in sight for long. He passed me with his wife on the bike (me on WR250F, he on RMZ450)

If you are a professional racer and plan to ride your fully loaded DR650 (carrying say ... 100 lbs. of gear on board?) and are good enough to ride dangerous, rocky rutted Baja like terrain at full speed (over 70 mph) then it's possible you may break something in a year or so of doing this.

I've ridden my DR650 through Baja twice ... at a moderate pace mostly and not taking the roughest routes out there. Fast enough to plow through deep desert sand but through rocks and whoop de doos ... I take a more moderate pace with luggage on board. Survival.

Many others have toured S. America on the DR650 and most have done pretty well ... with most problems coming from owners lack of proper basic maintenance or ignoring service. Some riders ignore chain and sprockets, don't take care of batteries.

Others overload their bikes terribly ... they need to go back to the Austin Vince school of World travel and take a refresher course. Austin is my Hero! (See Mondo Enduro and Terra Circa)

Unless you plan to do more radical exploring in the interiors of Peru' and Bolivia ... a mostly stock DR650 will do just fine. With a decent rider on board the bike will go about anywhere even loaded up.

David's suspension mods are wonderful ... but not strictly required to Adv Tour the DR650. I did splurge for an Ohlins on my bike and did add Race Tech Emulators for a plusher feel in the forks. IMHO, suspension is where your prep money should go. Save the rest for your trip. The basic DR is way better than 90% of owners will ever know.
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Old 09-06-2011, 06:34 PM   #93
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Walking Papers

Quote:
Originally Posted by NuckaMan View Post
For what it's worth, this has been really inspirational for me.

I too am a engineer (mechanical design for medical devices) and got my walking papers for next May. As long as they don't extend me (cause I will welcome the work) the pink-slip is actually an invitation for either Alaska or South America. If I head north, I will be taking my GS, if I head south, I narrowed my bike choice down to the DR 650. And my choice was based on exactly how you detailed it on Page 2.

I won't have the budget for a build-up even remotely closely as yours...but I will certainly take your frame reinforcement section to heart... I do hope you keep the photos up for awhile for everyone's future reference.

Please keep us updated on your progress and trip!!!!
NuckaMan -

Really sorry to hear of your receiving your pink-slip. Seems to be a nasty affliction of so many for the last two years or so. Biomedical engineering should be a solid field given the aging baby-boomers, but I am not that familiar with the specifics of the market. Good luck with securing new employment - and with whatever moto trip you elect to take. Keep the faith - at least you have a good education.

Thanks for the comments on the DR650 moto, sincerely appreciated. I took my GS/A to Deadhorse, Alaska in 2009 and it was a great moto for that trip. The DR650 build is a mix of pure experimentation, just to have a project and also build something that is somewhat different and hopefully works well in the end for the purpose intended.

Still working on resolving the new setup for the windscreen frame and instrument panel - regular work just keeps interfering with my DR650 build time though !!

Take care & best of luck - Dave
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Old 09-07-2011, 09:24 AM   #94
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Frame / Subframe & Pannier Frame Reinforcements

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Inspiration indeed. I hope we get some updates soon. This is a beautiful build indeed.

As far as frame reinforcement goes ... David's is very nicely done ... but honestly it's just not required on the DR650. How many broken rear sub frames or broken frames can be sighted? I think David found ONE. (Jammin' Jay) .

Unless you plan to do more radical exploring in the interiors of Peru' and Bolivia ... a mostly stock DR650 will do just fine. With a decent rider on board the bike will go about anywhere even loaded up.

David's suspension mods are wonderful ... but not strictly required to Adv Tour the DR650. I did splurge for an Ohlins on my bike and did add Race Tech Emulators for a plusher feel in the forks. IMHO, suspension is where your prep money should go. Save the rest for your trip. The basic DR is way better than 90% of owners will ever know.
AdvGrifter -

Thank you for the thorough response; and I agree with you on 98% of your points, opinions and commentary. The reason that I selected the DR650 vs. so many other moto options is for its simplicity, its ruggedness and its fundamental goodness.

I look at the frame, subframe and pannier frame gussets & reinforcements as an inexpensive insurance policy against an unlikely failure or crack.

Here is another set of rather ugly DR650 frame cracking at the swingarm pivot: http://www.advrider.com/forums/attac...1&d=1171607036

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...ramerepair.jpg



Granted - frame issues on the DR650 are very rare occurrences, but I do plan to travel to remote parts of Peru, Bolivia and Chile. I have ridden to remote villages high in the Andes Mountains in Peru and there is NO help available there.

If I had a very bad failure of some type there or the boondocks in Bolivia, I would probably have to disassemble my moto and then pack it out of the mountains on horses !

I agree with you comments on the suspension - use the budget for suspension mods. I had two major gripes with the front end on the stock DR650 - the first was dive & travel issues, but the showstopper for me was the wimpy little pinch bolts that use studs in the fork leg !! I think that the spec is 7 lbs-ft of torque. Many examples of snapped off pinch bolt studs due to overtorque.

This was just not an option for me as I did not want snapped off pinch-bolt studs in some remote area - and I can gurantee you I will be changing / repairing tubes at altitude, in the cold and during a rainstorm --- and then I would snap off a pinch-bolt stud by not paying attention to torque.

Flats NEVER happen on nice weather days or in convenient locations. The innertube Gods hate motorcyclists !

Anyway, thank you for the input and opinions. I will be posting up more photos soon. Just loaded down with work now but will get back to the build when I am able.

Dave
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Old 09-07-2011, 11:16 AM   #95
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i love this build and am inspired to continue with my own modifications.

i'm concerned though that raising the top clamp as you have done will cause extra side loading on the upper bearing?

i'm no fork expert, but does it really matter that the new fork tube is longer than the stock tube? couldn't the tube be 10 feet without it affecting the bike's handling if the distance from the top clamp to the axle center is set to the same as the DR forks?

when i did my USD KX fork conversion i just lowered the top clamp down as close to DR spec as possible and i have more stability than before the conversion.
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Old 09-07-2011, 01:04 PM   #96
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Dave I find it interesting that you posted this photo. It is one place that I was concerned about in your frame preparation. Knowing that you and I both overload our bikes ( and ride hard ) and knowing the conditions of roads "down south". The potholes that get me are the ones that surprise me during passing trucks and busses. Especially in the rain. " Not much avoidence opportunities then". I have thought more than once I was going to rip my swingarm off on the far side of a pothole in Central America. I don't see anything in your photos about adding strenght in the swingarm pevit area. Did you do anything there?

The bolts on the front forks concern me also. When I build the new DR650. After my return to the states, hopefully far in the future. I'm planning on changing those studs to removealbe allen head bolts, as I did on my last DR. To me less chance of breaking them with a small allen wrench, use soft mild steel so if they do break they can be removed without stripping the treads in the aluminum. Also I changed all bolts possible on the bike to allens for weight savings of carrying tools. If I remember correctly the hex head fasteners left on my last DR where for axle, swingarm, and head stock. No phillips heads at all.

I do plan to stay with the stock suspension units but upgrade both with Ricor. Staying with these enables me to lower the bike since I don't see the need for me to have additional ground clearence and I'm tired of picking up bikes after not having a place to put my foot on the ground, those places alway find me south of the Rio Grande.

I know from talking to you that you really enjoy your work but remember that in eleven years you will be my age and I remember that adventure travel was a lot easier when I was in my fifties than it is now in my middle sixties. I can still do the eighteen hour travel days but the sand gets deeper, the hills get steeper, and the bikes get heavier with age.

I know your bike is going to do well!

TravelGuy
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Old 09-07-2011, 08:53 PM   #97
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motodavid2000 View Post
Granted - frame issues on the DR650 are very rare occurrences, but I do plan to travel to remote parts of Peru, Bolivia and Chile. I have ridden to remote villages high in the Andes Mountains in Peru and there is NO help available there.

If I had a very bad failure of some type there or the boondocks in Bolivia, I would probably have to disassemble my moto and then pack it out of the mountains on horses !

I agree with you comments on the suspension - use the budget for suspension mods. I had two major gripes with the front end on the stock DR650 - the first was dive & travel issues, but the showstopper for me was the wimpy little pinch bolts that use studs in the fork leg !! I think that the spec is 7 lbs-ft of torque. Many examples of snapped off pinch bolt studs due to overtorque.

This was just not an option for me as I did not want snapped off pinch-bolt studs in some remote area - and I can gurantee you I will be changing / repairing tubes at altitude, in the cold and during a rainstorm --- and then I would snap off a pinch-bolt stud by not paying attention to torque.

Flats NEVER happen on nice weather days or in convenient locations. The innertube Gods hate motorcyclists !

Anyway, thank you for the input and opinions. I will be posting up more photos soon. Just loaded down with work now but will get back to the build when I am able.

Dave
Hey Dave,
Hope the build is going OK. Love to hear your feedback on the forks and other mods you've done. Very cool stuff!

I've seen that Purple bike before ... somewhere?? ... I believe that bike was jumped on a Moto Cross track? Also, Purple frame means 1996!
Who knows the kind of beating a 16 year old bike has had? Constant jumping WILL BREAK the frame ... even on the mighty DR650.

Weird Purple, pink and green were very popular colors in late 80's early 90's! My Yamaha YZ race bike from then was pink and Blue! KLR's were pink, purple and green ... and Suzuki's had purple frames! Go figure!

I wonder if your frame gussets could actually keep that sort of break from happening? I rather doubt it. Your Sub frame reinforcements look useful but hard to protect that swing arm pivot point. What do you think?

Hundreds of motorcyclists have done extensive exploration in the interiors of Peru' and Bolivia ... especially in the last five years.
See a recent thread by my buddy Vince (Crashmaster) on his KTM 990
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...ighlight=Fumar

Misery Goat on his KTM SE.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=582583

Vinnie has tons of videos of the roads up there ... as do others. None of it is all that tough. Your main concern is going too fast and going off a cliff or meeting on coming traffic on a blind corner. Parts of Bolivia are rough and Uyuni can beat up the bike in some rocky sections.

Several riders have broken down high in the Andes ... like the Canadian couple on NEW F800GS's. You do what everyone there does ... put your bike on a truck and head for Lima. Just not that hard. Getting it welded might be possible ... but shipping in a new frame would be better!

As remote as it appears there is constant truck traffic and even buses go to most remote communities. I only spent 3 months in Peru' when working there in 1975 ... and another 3 months in Bolivia ... but I was able to get to a lot of places on buses or trucks. Things were a bit more remote back then ... little tourism then. Later, I inherited a Vespa 150 in Cuzco and rode it to Ayacucho and Huancayo. That Vespa was tough ... but it did end up on trucks a couple times

Correct regards the Axle pinch bolts. Lots of DR guys have stripped/snapped those out. Bad system. I'm pretty careful with mine ... no problems so far. You can replace the studs ... and I use Nylock nuts and never over tighten them.

Flat tires DO always happen at worst possible time. I would practice riding you fully loaded bike with a rear flat. I've done this many times ... sometimes up to 100 miles or more. YES ... it destroys the tube and if you go too fast the tire can heat up. Some tires the bead will break and come off the rim. Others ... like my Avon Distanzia, can be ridden flat at 40 mph for 50 miles ... or maybe more? (I've done it) Last time I rode it to our Motel where our intrepid DR650 gang was relaxing and drinking beer. I had lots of help with the flat repair! Worth a new tube for sure!
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Old 09-07-2011, 10:05 PM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motodavid2000 View Post
AdvGrifter -

Thank you for the thorough response; and I agree with you on 98% of your points, opinions and commentary. The reason that I selected the DR650 vs. so many other moto options is for its simplicity, its ruggedness and its fundamental goodness.

I look at the frame, subframe and pannier frame gussets & reinforcements as an inexpensive insurance policy against an unlikely failure or crack.

Here is another set of rather ugly DR650 frame cracking at the swingarm pivot: http://www.advrider.com/forums/attac...1&d=1171607036

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...ramerepair.jpg



Granted - frame issues on the DR650 are very rare occurrences, but I do plan to travel to remote parts of Peru, Bolivia and Chile. I have ridden to remote villages high in the Andes Mountains in Peru and there is NO help available there.

If I had a very bad failure of some type there or the boondocks in Bolivia, I would probably have to disassemble my moto and then pack it out of the mountains on horses !

I agree with you comments on the suspension - use the budget for suspension mods. I had two major gripes with the front end on the stock DR650 - the first was dive & travel issues, but the showstopper for me was the wimpy little pinch bolts that use studs in the fork leg !! I think that the spec is 7 lbs-ft of torque. Many examples of snapped off pinch bolt studs due to overtorque.

This was just not an option for me as I did not want snapped off pinch-bolt studs in some remote area - and I can gurantee you I will be changing / repairing tubes at altitude, in the cold and during a rainstorm --- and then I would snap off a pinch-bolt stud by not paying attention to torque.

Flats NEVER happen on nice weather days or in convenient locations. The innertube Gods hate motorcyclists !

Anyway, thank you for the input and opinions. I will be posting up more photos soon. Just loaded down with work now but will get back to the build when I am able.

Dave
I had the frame crack in the same place as in the photo on my 98DR. Although it didnt start to separate like that one, i caught it just in time. The crack originated where the welds stopped and started on the underside of the round swingarm bolt area. There was a section in the corner that the robot missed. My current DR seems ok. A place to keep an eye on though. I remember seeing a Australian post on ADV Rider where the same thing happened. They got it welded up and plated at an outback garage.
A few people have had problems with swingarms cracking too. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28519
BergDonk did some plating on his. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...=646076&page=7
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Old 09-07-2011, 11:41 PM   #99
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Originally Posted by thumpididump View Post
The way the fuel will need to go down and then back up is sure to cause a problem. When you've got the weight of 5 gallons of gas pushing down on it, then it should be OK. But by the time you have only 1/2 a tank of gas left, there may not be enough force on it to push it back up into the carb inlet. In effect, you'll be running out of gas when you're half full. Perhaps a 90 degree elbow to bend it in, or shorten the hose. Either way, the hose shouldn't sag lower than the carb inlet.
Three things;
1.Fram do small cheap fuel filter,small enough to take a couple of spares with you (see pic.Fram G-3515).
2.Forks.I've just fitted a Suzuki DR650SE stem to a set of ATK 605,'94 model clamps.Only needs 8 thou.,
machined out,and a bit more depth.As i've an ATK in bits,it was the obvious answer,WP forks,Talon hub
etc.On the top clamp,it needs a sleeve machined-hence no photos yet-will post later!
3.Ohlins are available from Greece,importer went bust,the liquidator has put them all on eBay at $650 + freight(2 sets $560 i'd be interested in buying with someone to share freight too)!You can get radial brake mounts too!$650 for BRAND NEW Ohlins is a steal,they also fit my ATK clamps,53mm upper,58mm lower.......945mm length!Radial brake mount $160.
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Old 09-09-2011, 05:09 PM   #100
motodavid2000 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
I wonder if your frame gussets could actually keep that sort of break from happening? I rather doubt it. Your Sub frame reinforcements look useful but hard to protect that swing arm pivot point. What do you think?

Correct regards the Axle pinch bolts. Lots of DR guys have stripped/snapped those out. Bad system. I'm pretty careful with mine ... no problems so far. You can replace the studs ... and I use Nylock nuts and never over tighten them.
Adv Grifter -

I found the grouping of swingarm pivot / frame crack photos after I had planned and executed the frame reinforcements, unfortunately. The mods I have made will not address this type of frame cracking / failure. I think that a set of metal plate bands for the circumference would solve the problem to keep the swingarm pivot loads from "blowing out" the front of the frame.

What do you think caused this failure ? I am wondering if chain tightness had anything to do with it. Too tight of a chain, in certain positions of the swingarm stroke arc would pull the front of the swingarm forward as well as stress the countershaft heavily.

I do not know any of the circumstances of this frame break or how it happened. Pretty ugly mess though.

Thanks again for the input !

Dave

Quote:
Originally Posted by Phreaky Phil View Post
I had the frame crack in the same place as in the photo on my 98DR. Although it didnt start to separate like that one, i caught it just in time. The crack originated where the welds stopped and started on the underside of the round swingarm bolt area. There was a section in the corner that the robot missed. My current DR seems ok. A place to keep an eye on though. I remember seeing a Australian post on ADV Rider where the same thing happened. They got it welded up and plated at an outback garage.
A few people have had problems with swingarms cracking too. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28519
BergDonk did some plating on his. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...=646076&page=7
Phreaky Phil -

Thanks for looking. Yes, BergDonk has kindly provided me with input & suggestions on swingarm cracking and his plate additions. Not sure what I am going to do with that issue yet.

Dave

Quote:
Originally Posted by macrae85 View Post
Three things;
1.Fram do small cheap fuel filter,small enough to take a couple of spares with you (see pic.Fram G-3515).
2.Forks.I've just fitted a Suzuki DR650SE stem to a set of ATK 605,'94 model clamps.Only needs 8 thou.,
machined out,and a bit more depth.As i've an ATK in bits,it was the obvious answer,WP forks,Talon hub
etc.On the top clamp,it needs a sleeve machined-hence no photos yet-will post later!
3.Ohlins are available from Greece,importer went bust,the liquidator has put them all on eBay at $650 + freight(2 sets $560 i'd be interested in buying with someone to share freight too)!You can get radial brake mounts too!$650 for BRAND NEW Ohlins is a steal,they also fit my ATK clamps,53mm upper,58mm lower.......945mm length!Radial brake mount $160.
macrae85 -

Thanks for the info on the Ohlins forks on E-Bay. I will take a look at those - specifically with an eye on your noted total fork length; and fork leg diameters.

Thanks also for the suggestion on small fuel filters. I like my rebuildable / cleanable Pingel, but it is huge. Maybe just too big.

Dave
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Old 09-09-2011, 05:21 PM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motodavid2000 View Post

What do you think caused this failure ? I am wondering if chain tightness had anything to do with it. Too tight of a chain, in certain positions of the swingarm stroke arc would pull the front of the swingarm forward as well as stress the countershaft heavily.
Given the nature of your build I am sure you have been through the suspension needle rollers and swing arm pivot lubrication wise. ( The brake pedal pivot and steering head bearings are little different)
As far as chain tension,I would imagine you are fitting a new chain and sprockets for the trip.
It is well worth setting the tension when the shock it out of the bike.
That way if multiple front sprockets are going to be used the swing arm can be cycled to suit them for the near perfect chain adjustment.
The snail cam settings can then be written on top of the swing arm for easy sprocket changes.
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Old 09-09-2011, 07:49 PM   #102
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motodavid2000 View Post
What do you think caused this failure ? I am wondering if chain tightness had anything to do with it.
I do not know any of the circumstances of this frame break or how it happened. Pretty ugly mess though.
Indeed ...
As I mentioned ... that purple bike looks familiar. I believe someone on the "big" DR650 thread had that bike. IIFC it was someones Moto Crosser and got jumped a lot. Certainly, chain tightness would contribute to this sort of crack. Combine that with constant high jumps and that's likely what you would get. The DR is tough but was never meant to jump over and over.

Allowing enough chain slack is pretty basic but some riders forget

I've done quite a bit of nasty Washboard on a loaded DR ... absolutely no problem. The faster you go ... the smoother the ride ... but embedded rocks can get you ... I've also done miles and miles and hundreds of water bars in our Mendicino Nat. Forest. Every water bar means a jump ... these are there for erosion on forest roads. Fun but tiring after a few hours.

This is the now mostly paved section from Puertocitos to Alphonsina in Northern Baja. Notorious road that has taken apart many BMW GS's. Here I'm on my XR, my buddy on a borrowed DRZ400. I've done this same stretch several times on my DR650 as well. I put a dent in my Vstrom cast wheel on this section. NOW ITS ALL PAVED! Shame.
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Old 09-11-2011, 10:44 AM   #103
NuckaMan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motodavid2000 View Post
NuckaMan -

Really sorry to hear of your receiving your pink-slip. Seems to be a nasty affliction of so many for the last two years or so. Biomedical engineering should be a solid field given the aging baby-boomers, but I am not that familiar with the specifics of the market. Good luck with securing new employment - and with whatever moto trip you elect to take. Keep the faith - at least you have a good education.

Thanks for the comments on the DR650 moto, sincerely appreciated. I took my GS/A to Deadhorse, Alaska in 2009 and it was a great moto for that trip. The DR650 build is a mix of pure experimentation, just to have a project and also build something that is somewhat different and hopefully works well in the end for the purpose intended.

Still working on resolving the new setup for the windscreen frame and instrument panel - regular work just keeps interfering with my DR650 build time though !!

Take care & best of luck - Dave
Thank you for the sentiments and well wishes, but not too neccessary....I hope. This was expected due to what I do which is, make and market a new med-device and hope a big-fish with a big checking account comes along and snaps us up, which is what happened for my recent project.
I will say, what is a little concerning this time around is, cap-investors and venture-caps are being a little more frugal, so small development companies are not as plentiful like they were a few years ago. This is obviously due to current state of economy...but also the unknown effect of pending Obamacare Health Plan, so the next project maybe a little more difficult to come by.

Anyways, on to more important topics like your trip and build....looking foward to more updates!!! Also, when is your expected departure date for your trip???

I remembering reading you where once a owner in a moto-touring company down in Costa Rica?

I had a opportunity to rent and ride down there several years ago. The project at the time called for me travel to Costa Rica on a regular basis (Heredia, Costa Rica). I took a little time off and rented a DRZ400 from a moto-rental place in San Jose. Other than almost getting killed multiple times by local taxi's, once I got out of the city, I fell in love with the country and the riding it offered....and I just putted around the country roads mostly, didn't have any gear do venture too far into the woods. That was one project I was bummed to leave behind.
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Old 09-11-2011, 07:37 PM   #104
troyfromtexas
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Thanks for the build report and tips

Thanks for the build report and tips. I've been moding my DR for the past month to prep it for a Texas to Tierra del Fuego trip that I'll probably be starting next week. I wish that I would have found this thread much sooner. I'm not nearly as mechanically inclined as you Dave so most of my mods have been bolt on. No engine, suspension or frame mods for me, I'd probably just mess it up. I am loving what you've done to yours.

Thanks specifically for the IMS/Pingel/fuel filter discussion. Your's and the other's comments helped answer some of my questions about issues with a fuel line bend and the fuel being able to travel up.

No frame rack for me, I'm going with the soft bag setup of a Giant Loop Great Basin and Coyote Dry Bag. I'll try to let y'all know how the soft bag setup works out. I plan to create a ride report here on ADVRider as soon as I start. Right now I just have my mod stories on my website.

I'm hoping that you start your ride soon, it would be nice to see that bike in person.

Cheers,

Troy
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Old 09-12-2011, 05:32 PM   #105
motodavid2000 OP
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Side loadsing of headstock bearings

Quote:
Originally Posted by vintagespeed View Post
i love this build and am inspired to continue with my own modifications.

i'm concerned though that raising the top clamp as you have done will cause extra side loading on the upper bearing?

i'm no fork expert, but does it really matter that the new fork tube is longer than the stock tube? couldn't the tube be 10 feet without it affecting the bike's handling if the distance from the top clamp to the axle center is set to the same as the DR forks?

when i did my USD KX fork conversion i just lowered the top clamp down as close to DR spec as possible and i have more stability than before the conversion.
Vintagespeed -

Thanks much for the comments and good questions - all. I am going to offer my opinions here as I am not a moto designer or engineer.

I do not think that raising the upper triple clamp by approx. 1.7 inches will add any significant additional side loads to the upper bearing. I don't want to get too wonky here but - Force times Lever Arm = torque (loading). The lateral loads are minimal at the top clamp, in my opinion. The lower headstock bearing, again in my opinion, sees the worst loading - both longitudinal to the axis of the stem and lateral. The upper bearing stabilizes the steering stem, but does not see much in the way of longitudinal loading, and only slightly more in lateral loads.

I would say that the more critical dimension is from the lower clamp to the centerline of the axle vs. the relationship of the upper clamp to the axle. This is a gross oversimplification on my part as rake & trail (and offset) have large impacts on steering speed, and overall stability.

I elected to raise the top clamp (therefore new headstock stem needed) vs. raising the bars to provide adequate clearance for the fork legs to protrude through the upper clamps by ~ 1.7 inches.

I am also investigating using different fork legs and perhaps also modifying my existing Ohlins forks --- again, I am experimenting with this bike and it will probably never be a totally finished product. It is absolutely a "project" bike in the greatest sense of the word. To me it is something to continue to tinker with and modify.

Anyway, thank you for looking and for your comments, observations & questions !

Regards - Dave
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