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Old 09-15-2012, 02:34 PM   #241
Ben99r1
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Steve I have a question for you. After putting my engine together I have a oil leave around rocker cover. I reused the oem gasket with some rvt sealant. My question is is RVT sealant the same thing as hondabond that you use? I am going to take the rocker cover off and recheck all the torques on the bolts. Then ill reuse the oem gasket again but should I get some hondabond? Thanks, Ben
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Old 09-15-2012, 03:28 PM   #242
mcma111 OP
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I like the Hondabond type of sealant. Look back at the first page of this thread and you will see the gasket has sealant on both sides, the head and rocker cover. As I call it a gasket sandwich. Wipe all of the surfaces and the gasket with lacquer thinner or acetone. NOT solvent as it leaves a film behind.
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Old 09-15-2012, 06:56 PM   #243
Ben99r1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcma111 View Post
I like the Hondabond type of sealant. Look back at the first page of this thread and you will see the gasket has sealant on both sides, the head and rocker cover. As I call it a gasket sandwich. Wipe all of the surfaces and the gasket with lacquer thinner or acetone. NOT solvent as it leaves a film behind.
I did your sandwich method when I put back together. But I waiting overnight to bolted back together. I think that is what might of caused my leak problem. Ill go by the Hondabond before i try to fix it. thanks for all your help. Ben
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Old 09-15-2012, 07:50 PM   #244
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I do the bottom of the gasket and then the head. Install the gasket and do the top of the gasket, then the rocker cover. Install cover. Working at normal speed. Install the bolts and torque them down. I have yet to have any leaks. What the heck did you wait for ??? No reason to.
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Old 10-02-2012, 01:19 PM   #245
Ben99r1
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A thin coat on the head



The top of the gasket

Steve. I need some advice. I have a oil leak coming from the bottom of the dowel on the cylinder cover. Its the dowel on the other side of the cam sprocket. I think the problem is the bolt broke when the motor was being taken apart. It was drilled out and a sert/helicoil was placed in. I don't think it was placed in far enough. That's what is causing the oil leak. I plan to take the cylinder cover off when a new dowel comes in. My plan to fix this is to file down the new dowel whatever is sticking out more than the dowel on the other side. Do you think that would work? Or can you suggest a way that might work to fix the problem? Thanks, Ben

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Old 10-02-2012, 03:29 PM   #246
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If you have to Heli-Coil a dowel hole it should be big enough to keep using the dowel. You can use the rocker cover as a guide. Keep the other dowel in place and bolts on either side of the drilled hole. Make sure that the dowel has clearance, is short enough so that it keeps the rocker cover from mating to the head. You may have to shorten the dowel. When installing a Heli-Coil be sure that the top coil is between one to two threads below the surface of the head.
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87 Harley FXRS-SP ~ 06 KTM 625 SMC ~ 72 Honda CB750/915cc ~ 92 XR600/654cc ~ 95 XR650l/675cc ~ 03 CRF450r ~ 05 CRF450x ~ 02 XR650l/675cc ~ 86 YZ490 ~ 93 YZ80 ~ 93 XR650l Project
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Old 10-02-2012, 06:30 PM   #247
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An alternative to Heli-Coils

This may not be suitable to replace the thread in a dowel hole, but I'll mention it anyway...

A previous owner did a very rough heli-coil job on my head... The new thread for the heli-coil was very rough and a bit over-sized so the helicoil came out on the bolt when I disassembled it... (The heli-coil was glued to the bolt with excess Hondabond also)

I ended up buying some M6 X 1.00 X 12.0mm >> Time-Sert Carbon Steel Inserts
http://www.timesert.com/

$15 for 10 on ebay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/300692096759

They go into the same size thread as the M6 heli-coils... They should be inserted with the proper tools, the internal M6 thread tapers in at the bottom, when you install them and run the proper tool into them they expand at the bottom to lock them in....


Being cheap I didn't buy the insertion tools... I just put it on the end of a 6mm bolt with a lock nut so the bolt was only 1/2 way through it, and threaded it into the head with some Loctite super stud-lock on it, then I removed the bolt I used to install it and ran a 6mm bottoming tap through it which seemed to expand the bottom to lock it into the head fine... (hope that makes sense)

I stripped the engine down for a rebuild a few thousand miles later and the Time-Sert insert stayed in the head, and gave me no issues...


(BTW, I used your "Gasket Sandwich" method with great success)
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Old 10-02-2012, 06:33 PM   #248
mcma111 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FLICKIT View Post


I used your "Gasket Sandwich" method with great success)

White bread or wheat??
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BMW's
58 R26
79 R100s
91 R100gs

87 Harley FXRS-SP ~ 06 KTM 625 SMC ~ 72 Honda CB750/915cc ~ 92 XR600/654cc ~ 95 XR650l/675cc ~ 03 CRF450r ~ 05 CRF450x ~ 02 XR650l/675cc ~ 86 YZ490 ~ 93 YZ80 ~ 93 XR650l Project
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Old 10-02-2012, 11:50 PM   #249
redprimo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FLICKIT View Post
This may not be suitable to replace the thread in a dowel hole, but I'll mention it anyway...

A previous owner did a very rough heli-coil job on my head... The new thread for the heli-coil was very rough and a bit over-sized so the helicoil came out on the bolt when I disassembled it... (The heli-coil was glued to the bolt with excess Hondabond also)

I ended up buying some M6 X 1.00 X 12.0mm >> Time-Sert Carbon Steel Inserts
http://www.timesert.com/

$15 for 10 on ebay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/300692096759

They go into the same size thread as the M6 heli-coils... They should be inserted with the proper tools, the internal M6 thread tapers in at the bottom, when you install them and run the proper tool into them they expand at the bottom to lock them in....


Being cheap I didn't buy the insertion tools... I just put it on the end of a 6mm bolt with a lock nut so the bolt was only 1/2 way through it, and threaded it into the head with some Loctite super stud-lock on it, then I removed the bolt I used to install it and ran a 6mm bottoming tap through it which seemed to expand the bottom to lock it into the head fine... (hope that makes sense)

I stripped the engine down for a rebuild a few thousand miles later and the Time-Sert insert stayed in the head, and gave me no issues...


(BTW, I used your "Gasket Sandwich" method with great success)
The Timesert installation kit comes with a counter bore tool so the shoulder sits flush. I'm curious how you installed yours without a kit and got it to sit flush.
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Old 10-03-2012, 02:26 AM   #250
FLICKIT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redprimo View Post
The Timesert installation kit comes with a counter bore tool so the shoulder sits flush. I'm curious how you installed yours without a kit and got it to sit flush.
Sorry I didn't mention that...

I just countersunk the hole with a countersink bit... (that I already had) ...

The same could be done by hand with a large drill bit...

I didn't countersink it enough so the time-sert sat slightly high, it wasn't enough to be an issue, but when I had the head off later I filed it down flush....

Ideally you'd spend the money on the right tools.. but money was a bit tight for me at the time (I think a M6 kit on ebay is about $65)

:)

Edit: The $63 kit >> http://www.ebay.com/itm/300688868661

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Old 10-17-2012, 02:33 AM   #251
gray.vladivostok
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that over the hole? it was packed powder somehow, I deleted all of it

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Old 01-20-2013, 10:11 PM   #252
AndyCBR
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Gearshift detent spring upgrade

Steve,

I'm in the middle of my rebuild and have a question about the superseded part number for the gearshift drum detent spring.

On earlier bikes (like my 2003) this spring is a single wire affair and is just looped around to put some pressure on the detent fork.

On later models the spring appears to have been upgraded to a coil type spring.

Is this a common point of failure in this model? If you're down there already is it worthwhile to get the superseded spring?

The spring I'm talking about is #10 in the pic (from the 2003 fiche). #27 does not show up as available on the 03 fiche but the part #10 is the newer part number if you look at the 09 fiche (only one spring is depicted in the 09 fiche)

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Best,
Andy

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Old 01-20-2013, 10:42 PM   #253
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyCBR View Post
Steve,

I'm in the middle of my rebuild and have a question about the superseded part number for the gearshift drum detent spring.

On earlier bikes (like my 2003) this spring is a single wire affair and is just looped around to put some pressure on the detent fork.

On later models the spring appears to have been upgraded to a coil type spring.

Is this a common point of failure in this model? If you're down there already is it worthwhile to get the superseded spring?

The spring I'm talking about is #10 in the pic (from the 2003 fiche). #27 does not show up as available on the 03 fiche but the part #10 is the newer part number if you look at the 09 fiche (only one spring is depicted in the 09 fiche)

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Best,
Andy
While you have the bottom end of the engine apart, I would definitely upgrade to the newer, stronger spring, which only costs $2.21. The older spring broke on WalterXR650L's bike, and he had to split the crankcase to fix it.

Spud
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Old 01-20-2013, 10:48 PM   #254
AndyCBR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spud Rider View Post
While you have the bottom end of the engine apart, I would definitely upgrade to the newer, stronger spring, which only costs $2.21. The older spring broke on WalterXR650L's bike, and he had to split the crankcase to fix it.

Spud

I was kinda thinking that. The original design spring is pretty cheesy. When I took it apart I thought something was wrong as it is just one bent wire hanging out in the open.

Thanks,
Andy
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Old 01-20-2013, 10:51 PM   #255
Spud Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyCBR View Post
I was kinda thinking that. The original design spring is pretty cheesy. When I took it apart I thought something was wrong as it is just one bent wire hanging out in the open.

Thanks,
Andy
You're welcome, Andy.

Spud
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