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Old 09-15-2013, 10:25 AM   #1
Wadester OP
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Location: 'Cruces
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A Sprinter Adventure Van build

First, let me give credit to Geek's Building an Adventure Van. He has done some amazing work on his Sprinter, and has also done a lot of research on equipment and options. Thanks, Ed!

My Sprinter will be a bit more pedestrian, I'm afraid. But I think there's some things worth sharing about the build so -

I start with a 2013 Sprinter 2500 short wheel base (144") high roof Crew van - which gets you a 3 seat bench behind the two front buckets, mid side windows and rear door windows, and a full headliner.


Here's the build codes:

Model: M2CV144
Paint 1: Arctic White
Upholstry: Lima Black Fabric

********Standard Accessories********
BB9 Electronic Stability Program (ESP9i)
CF2 Suspension w/Front & Rear Stabilizers
CL1 Adjustable Steering Wheel
C39 Rear Springs, comfort, 2500
C42 Stabilizer Bar, Rear Axle
C45 Stabilizer Bar - Reinforced Front
C47 Shock Absorbers Reinforce
D93 Deletion of Cargo Partition (Standard)
ED8 Parametric Special Module (PSM) Preparation
EE8 Battery 100 AMP/12V
EK1 Body Builder Connector Under Driver Seat
EL8 Radio Speaker, 5 Front
ESo Battery Positive Contact
E07 Hill-Start Assist
E30 Starter Battery Disconnect
FF3 Cup Holder Pass Compartment
FF5 Shelf Above Windshield
FL1 Remote Key Fob -315mHz
F61 Interior Mirror
G40 Transmission - 5 Speed Auto
HH2 Heater - Aux. Electric HotAir
HH9 Air Conditioning - Front
H22 Defroster - Rear Window
IG3 Sprinter Tracking Code
J11 Tachometer in Miles
J58 Warning System-Driver Seatbelt
J65 Outside Temperature Gauge
KB0 Fuel Tank - 26.4 Gallon/100 Liters
KL1 Aux.Fuel Sending Unit
KL5 Fuel Filter w/Water Separator
K60 Exhaust Straight to Rear
LB5 3rd LED Break Lamp Hi-Mounted
L94 No Parking Lamps
MG5 Engine-3.0 Turbo Diesel Blue TEC
MH3 Emissions EPA 13/CARB
MZ0 Blue-Efficiency Badge
M46 Alternator 14V/220A
P47 Front Mud Flaps
P48 Rear Mudflaps
Q67 Tow Hook Rear
RH8 Tires LT245/75 R16
RM0 Tires All Season
RS3 Wheel Steel 6.5x16
RY2 Tire Pressure Monitor Lamp
R65 Spare Tire Carrier below Frame
R87 Spare Wheel - Steel
SA5 Air Bag - Driver
SA6 Air Bag - Passenger
SD0 Child Seat Attachments, ISOFIX
S22 Armrest for Driver Seat
S25 Armrest for Passenger Seat
T09 Sliding Door Ext Track
T16 Sliding Door - Right Side
U62 Seat - 1st Row, 3 Passenger Bench
U74 Seat Armrest Rear Seats Left
U75 Seat Armrest - Rear Seats - Right
VA1 Side Wall Panel - Waist High PVC
VA3 Side Wall Panel - Full Hardboard
VA7 Storage Net in Hinged RR Doors
VC5 Door Sill Protective Edge
V36 Rear Roof Trim
V40 Passenger Van Floor
V43 Cargo Van Wood Floor
V46 Rear Floor Covering - Rubber
V85 Ashtrays - Front
W16 Fixed Window, Left Side Front
W17 Fixed Window, Right Side Front
W54 Rear Doors 270 Degree Opening
W61 Windows In Tailgate/Rear Door
W70 Tint for Rear Windows and Rear Side Windows
XC8 VIN# Visible from Outside
XL8 GVWR 8,550 lbs
XQ1 VIN Encoded vehicle data with check digit
XY3 Model Year 2013
X42 Literature English
Y43 Hycraulic Jack
ZK4 Mixto
ZU8 Country Code - USA
ZZ4 MB North Americal Execution
Z44 Vehicle Registration NAFTA

********OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES********
PA1 Premium Package
F68: Exterior Mirror - Powered/Heated
MS1: Cruise Control
SB1: Comfort Driver's Seat
SB2: Comfort Passenger's Seat
PT1 Trailer Hitch Package
E40: Trailer Hitch - Wire Harness w/7 Pin Connector
Q24: Trailer Hitch
AR2 Axle Ratio 3.92
CF4 Suspension w/H.D. Front & Rear Stabilizers
D03 Roof - High
EN0 Radio Sound 5 (AM/FM, Single CD, MP3)
FJ1 I/P Hinged Lid - Center Stack Bin
H00 Heater Air Duct Pass Comp
H01 Heat Insulation for Rear Compartment
H04 Heat Insulation for Front Compartment
H20 Heat-Insulating Glass (Standard)
KP0 DEF Tank - Standard Size
LB9 Illuminated Exits
LD0 Overhead Cntrl Panel w/2 Lamps
RD9 Tire Brand - Unspecified
T85 Assist Handle - Left Rear Door
T86 Assist Handle - Right Rear Door
YK3 Cargo Straps - D Rings
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Two roads diverged in a wood, and / I took the one less traveled by, and / now where the hell am I?

This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic. (Originally Posted by Human Ills, 7/1/14)
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Old 09-15-2013, 10:31 AM   #2
Andrew
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Old 09-15-2013, 10:31 AM   #3
Tmaximusv
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Wondering what price neighborhood your chassis is in. I am thinking similar vehicle, probably without as much conversion as you are planning.

TIA for sharing!
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Old 09-15-2013, 10:34 AM   #4
Wadester OP
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How much room do you actually get? I read the factory specs, and it looked like it would be a tight fit to get an M/C behind the bench seat - but I needed more than 2 seats, so I figured either take out the seat or put the M/C in diagonally.

Once I had it in the drive, I tried the DR350S:



It fits fine! I had to try the R1200GS:



Plenty of room for an M/C - might even take a cruiser.
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Two roads diverged in a wood, and / I took the one less traveled by, and / now where the hell am I?

This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic. (Originally Posted by Human Ills, 7/1/14)
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Old 09-15-2013, 11:11 AM   #5
Wadester OP
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Now we actually start taking things apart!

Stock, the van is a big rolling echo chamber. You can hear the tires rolling on the pavement - and any jolt to the suspension. You can hear the radio at highway speed, but you need to turn it down to talk. Outside voices necessary.


The headliner is overlapping panels - and you have to start at the front. I tried starting at the back and it no workie. Here's what I found at the interface between back and next forward (which I'm pulling down a bit):


Of special note are the plastic rivets - which are two piece!

The small black ones in the overlap are fairly obvious, but the exposed ones have the center "spreader" head large enough to overlap the actual rivet. If you just slide a pry tool under it you will be prying on the expanded rivet. Takes a little work to get the expander started, but well worth it!

All the dome lights snap into cutouts, including the big one in the front. There will be a small indent where you need to pry.



The back end of each panel (and 2 intermediate rows in the HUUUUUGE second panel (spans the length of the sliding door) have plastic snap connectors. You need to get your pry tool right next to these to get them loose. I didn't break any, but YMMV.


Headliner out! You can see the factory noise damping material (the white rectangles) and how much isn't covered - especially up there in the front dome.
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Two roads diverged in a wood, and / I took the one less traveled by, and / now where the hell am I?

This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic. (Originally Posted by Human Ills, 7/1/14)
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Old 09-15-2013, 12:55 PM   #6
rawdog
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Old 09-15-2013, 01:36 PM   #7
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Oooooh, cool!!

I looked at this and thought Hmmmmm. Now I'll watch yours and see if I'm out of my mind.
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Old 09-15-2013, 02:56 PM   #8
Wadester OP
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Talking

Geek did the research for Sound Damping materials. I think he did a fine job, and went with the Damplifier Pro CLD Sound Deadening Mats for a start. I wanted to start at the top and work my way down, mostly because I'm also installing a rear view camera and a roof vent. I plan on getting some Luxury Liner Pro - Mass Loaded Vinyl Barrier - MLV for "below the beltline" to take out the last of the road noise. but I don't want that weight up high.

After applying Damplifier Pro to everything that made a resonant sound when I knocked on it and any other open, flat area - I started on insulation.

First layer is Reflectix 4-ft-x-25-ft mylar/bubble wrap. I also cut a custom windshield sunshade out of this, finishing the edges in fancy duct tape.



Second Layer is UltraTouch recycled denim insulation, specifically their UltraTouch 48"x75" Denim Insulation Hot Water Heater Blanket which was recommended by somebody else I don't recall. This gets you 2" thick insulation with a fiber reinforced foil layer already on one side.


The roof itself can fit one layer of each - the sides take 2 layers of denim to fill. Here's an in-the-process pic:



I actually went on an overnight road trip before I took this shot - I had the huge sliding door headliner piece on with no insulation in the last bay, and nothing in the front - none of that damplifier. No echoes from the back - but the wind noise from the front was very loud. You could only hear the radio if it was cranked way up.

I had to pull the headliner back down to finish some details on the camera cable and vent fan, and got a "final" pic of this bit:


Now that the headliner is back on - even without the A-pillar covers on - it is much quieter. No echos, no wind roar. I can even hear the air going by the open vent fan as I drive, and conversation doesn't require raising your voice (altho mumbling don't work as yet). I'm looking forward to how it sounds when it's all done.

I'll post more as I finish sections. Next up is fan wiring and install of the GPS/camera screen/sound system. The hard part will be taking the dash apart - since it's all interlocked and you have to figure out where to start and what bit comes off next. I'm not sure if I can drive with that all apart, so I need to be ready and get going on a weekend - try to finish in one go.
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Two roads diverged in a wood, and / I took the one less traveled by, and / now where the hell am I?

This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic. (Originally Posted by Human Ills, 7/1/14)
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Old 09-15-2013, 03:05 PM   #9
Wadester OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Queen View Post
Oooooh, cool!!

I looked at this and thought Hmmmmm. Now I'll watch yours and see if I'm out of my mind.
I'm not sure if sanity is a pro or a con doing this, but so far so good! Welcome!

I really like the high roof, and I'm 5'9". Cargo vs Crew depends on how many seats and windows you want.
__________________
Two roads diverged in a wood, and / I took the one less traveled by, and / now where the hell am I?

This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic. (Originally Posted by Human Ills, 7/1/14)
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Old 09-15-2013, 03:18 PM   #10
Wadester OP
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Oh yeah, what I did yesterday.

I'm not much on "status symbols" so the 3 MB stars don't thrill me. The one in the grill is a solid part of the grill - unless I want to swap somebody for a Freightliner or Dodge grill and trim. The little stick-on button on the hood is gonna go, just gotta plot&plan.

But the rear door star - that was what I started with. After removing two screws and a bit of minor prying -Voila!:


Could this work?


Maybe.


Now I should wash the other half of the cover, eh?
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Two roads diverged in a wood, and / I took the one less traveled by, and / now where the hell am I?

This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic. (Originally Posted by Human Ills, 7/1/14)
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Old 09-15-2013, 05:04 PM   #11
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Someone pass the butter. This is gonna be good

M
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Old 09-15-2013, 05:15 PM   #12
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That denim stuff may work good for mine as well.

I'm converting a T1N medium length, high top into a crew van.

Installed the window opposite the sliding door. Mounted a new set of seats from a 2010. Now paneling the crew area and moving the factory bulkhead back to just aft of the slider.

Need to have it done for the Rubber Chicken Ride. You going to be there?












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Old 09-15-2013, 07:56 PM   #13
Wadester OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emerson.biguns View Post
That denim stuff may work good for mine as well.

I'm converting a T1N medium length, high top into a crew van.

Need to have it done for the Rubber Chicken Ride. You going to be there?
The denim is easy to handle. Cut it with scissors, spray some 3M adhesive on it and stick it up. Aluminum tape to seal comes with the water heater kit.

T1N - Old school - way cool. Look forward to seeing it. By the pics there is no sound damper at all. I think it makes a big difference.

Rubber Chicken? Dam! I hadn't gone looking for it - but there it is. So probably - gotta check my schedule. Thanks!
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Two roads diverged in a wood, and / I took the one less traveled by, and / now where the hell am I?

This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic. (Originally Posted by Human Ills, 7/1/14)
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Old 06-17-2014, 10:25 PM   #14
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Any more updates. :)
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Old 06-18-2014, 03:46 AM   #15
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In!!!

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