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Old 04-20-2013, 01:48 PM   #2641
Big Bird 928
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Can you attach (glue) strips of wood to the counter top that get screwed or bolted to the cabinet? Pictures would be very helpful.

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Old 04-20-2013, 02:49 PM   #2642
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Yay it is actually warm enough to enjoy being in the workshop again!

Cheryl & I are in the early stages of shopping for a new home & my only requirement is a heated workshop with a 12 foot tall garage door. She can have anything she wants.. anywhere she wants... as long as I can be comfortable while playing with working on the toys in the winter. Having to do this build out doors has been such a pain int he butt.
Heck.. I bet I could average 3 custom Sprinter builds/winter in that environment

...

I've been trying to mountain bike 3 times/week. To do this Casey & I meet up a couple of mornings/week before work... so I've been leaving the mountain bike in the van.

Until now I've had two options:
1) use our big fancy Thule rack to carry the bike (on the outside) which is a great solution for camping/etc where you aren't leaving the van unattended.
2) throw the bike in the van. This is what I've been doing - but I'm not too comfortable with it being loose and rattling around back there (I know.. I could bungee it.. but that takes time )

so.. I just built option 3 - quick release 8020 fork locks.









I think this will be the perfect option for when we want to carry the mountain bikes securely inside. I'll offset the second one for Cheryl's bike to fit in beside. I'll make quick release knobs for removing the 8020 fork mounts in 10 seconds when they aren't needed.. and they can be stored under the right bench.
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Old 04-20-2013, 03:34 PM   #2643
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Bird 928 View Post
Can you attach (glue) strips of wood to the counter top that get screwed or bolted to the cabinet? Pictures would be very helpful.

sent from my abacus.
...to back up a bit:

Almost a year ago, ginslung posted in this thread that he had some spare countertop material available if I wanted to experiment with it. I ran down to his place a couple of weekends ago and got what he had... which was about 500lbs worth!

(Thanks again ginslung )

The stuff is called Paperstone. It is recycled paper that is compressed to a density that is harder than wood but not as hard as marble. It is super heavy.

You work with the stuff like wood - really dense wood. You can cut it with a wood saw, rout it, etc.. but you have to go really slow because of the density. When you are finished you polish it with a bio-degradable bees wax to bring it to a shine like a traditional countertop; the entire thing is an environmentally responsible recycled solution (fwiw).




Here's the biggest piece ginslung gave me - which should be enough for me to cut both countertops out of:
(sorry about the pic.. I have it wedged in the bike garage right now so I can't really get to it)


He also gave me a bunch of scrap pieces to practice with:


I just cut off a chunk to see.... wow you have to go sloooooooooooooooow


Alas, here is what I have to work with


When mounting stuff like this, my first concern is "what is it going to do in a rollover accident" - i.e. these countertops need to be SECURE - and due to their mass that's going to be a feat.

As I mentioned, I also need them to be removeable for:
1) van maintenance
2) in the future I'll be pulling them out so I can cut big holes in them for a flush mount sink and conductive stove top.

I have two trains of thought right now:

1) would I be able to partially drill holes/tap holes from the bottom that do not breach the top - with which I could build mounting brackets and bolt it all to the 8020 - and these holes be strong enough in an accident? Maybe I could even use threaded inserts like i used in the wooden floor of the van (if I could find shallow ones)?

2) could I mount them with the epoxy/glue/etc that they use to permanently mount countertops - but glue them to a couple of 8020 rails that I then bolt into my existing 8020 cabinet structure?





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Old 04-20-2013, 03:56 PM   #2644
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It's plenty thick... how about routing some T-slots on the bottom side then sliding in as many carriage bolts as needed?
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Old 04-20-2013, 04:18 PM   #2645
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Use some 8020 on top and clamp them into place?
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Old 04-20-2013, 04:55 PM   #2646
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Quote:
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It's plenty thick... how about routing some T-slots on the bottom side then sliding in as many carriage bolts as needed?
That's a great idea!

So after reading your idea I went to check what I have for router bits... darn; no t-slot shaped ones in my collection (I'm going to buy one though!).

So I thought I'd play with the Paperstone and see what its characteristics are...

I started drilling holes in it to see how it drills


I did various depths including going through it.. I also got over super close to the edge to see if it would split or anything...


The stuff is solid.
Hmmmmm....

I wonder how it would tap with an "8020 friendly" 5/32-18?



Turns out it taps like metal!!!!



So I ran an 8020 bolt down into it until tight.. then put a 10" leverage bar on and gave it a hard pull to see if it would strip. Nope! the threads are solid.



so I mounted a bracket onto it and cranked it down as tight as any 8020 join in the van


and did a hill billy engineering strength test on the threads




This is one single bolt. The piece of Paperstone itself probably weights 15-20 lbs and then throw on the leverage of the full bottle of antifreeze....

When I pushed down on the antifreeze, my cheap chinese bench vice started to bow.. the paperstone threads never budged. The threads are more than stout enough

Solution found. I will simply drill and thread the Paperstone and bolt it directly to the 8020.
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Old 04-20-2013, 04:57 PM   #2647
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Originally Posted by RustySpokes View Post
Use some 8020 on top and clamp them into place?
This is a great idea too!

In fact.. I think you may have just given me a solution to a different thing.
I was debating what to do as a "back splash" on the counter top where it meets the van - usually with a counter top you cut a long skinny strip and glue it on...

Instead, I think I might run a long beautiful piece of 8020 smooth and bolt it at the ends adding that much more security to the counter. With all the 8020 in the van I think it'll look pretty cool?

Thanks!

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Old 04-20-2013, 05:14 PM   #2648
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Solution found.

Much simpler than what I had in mind.




New window:





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Old 04-20-2013, 05:35 PM   #2649
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Looks great! CRL?
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Old 04-20-2013, 05:43 PM   #2650
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Looks great! CRL?
Thanks.

Making that first drill hole is tough.



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Old 04-20-2013, 08:16 PM   #2651
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Originally Posted by emerson.biguns View Post
Much simpler than what I had in mind.
Great Idea! Whodathunk that you could tap that stuff! But there is one more trick you might want to include in your assembly. Read on.

For others who might be using a different (un-tappable) solid surface product in their van, the usual method to secure a top or anything to a top is to drill out a blind hole in the material and then epoxy in threaded rod. That is how you hang an under-mount sink.

Normally, a stone or other solid surface top is just set onto a thick bead of silicone caulk. Holds the top in place good enough for almost any residential situation, including earthquake . For removal, you cut the caulk. Not REAL easy, and I once saw one of my employees, a Master at anything stone or ceramic, drill a series of small pilot holes through the caulk to get a sawsall blade started.

The only time I remember bolting down a top was in a public bar, on the small section of top that hinged up to let you behind the bar. We thought "Well, silicone SHOULD hold, but 'our name is on this job', so....".
BUT, we still put down a bead of caulk first, kinda' like a Liquid Shim.

SO, I suggest you think of something to use to interface between the top and the cabinets. Serves two purposes. It would act as a gasket/shim because not much in this world is perfectly flat, and would prevent any road-squeaks. Cork gasket material, blue-tape the bottom of the counter to make it releasable then silicone, very thin felt, very thick cloth, very thin rubber... You get the idea.


Oh, and a big P.S.
The next plumber you meet, tell him about tapping into that material. You will have a Friend For Life and it might help on the next plumbing bill!
99% of the time it's the plumber's job to hang the sink. And we just stand back with that "You break it you bought it" look on our face while he drills into the top.
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Old 04-21-2013, 04:06 PM   #2652
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Geek, here's my bike rack made with some of that same kind of "track" or whatever it is:



I've got the 12 passenger model and we found that XL 29" MTBs will just fit in this config if you take out the rearmost seat. We built the rack up like this to get gear under them easily. Works great, and it's easy to reconfigure for different size/style bikes.

Later we built a custom wall rack to "hang" bikes on the wall of a trailer. We used the same track arranged vertically on the wall so you can easily adjust the height of the fork mount so any size bike can still have the rear wheel sit on the floor (taking some load off the wall). But we slanted the fork mount 45* since we had plenty of spare height to the roof and this let us get bikes closer together (by a lot).

Since our design originally required our fork mount (some custom, some OTS like what you used) to be at 90* to the track, we have them mounted on aluminum adapter plates. Then we did the same for the 45* ones. But those were made in a big hurry. NOW we're going to remake those adapter plates so that you can loosen one bolt and make them swivel between 90* and 45*. That will let us use the same pieces on either the van rack or the wall rack. I end up needing to mix and match between 9mm QR, 15mm thru-axle, and 20mm thru-axle since I ride with a lot of guys who all have different stuff. This will make that much easier.

I'll post pics when we get the next version of the wall rack done. It's going in my Livin Lite VRV, which I just posted pics of in the Toyhauler thread.


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Old 04-21-2013, 07:58 PM   #2653
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Very cool Donnie! Thanks for the info

It had never even occurred to me that they could be at an angle so the bikes could be side by side.. I'm going to have to play with that setup.



We mountainbike'd 3 hours today in some heavy mud. Made quite a mess in the van coming home. I wish I'd used the external rack instead


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Old 04-23-2013, 12:33 PM   #2654
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Fiamma F65S in deep black with a Sahara awning ordered.

The reason we chose Sahara is it is the closest color to "moab dirt" which is what it'll likely be covered in

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Old 04-23-2013, 03:40 PM   #2655
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Fiamma F65S in deep black with a Sahara awning ordered.

The reason we chose Sahara is it is the closest color to "moab dirt" which is what it'll likely be covered in

Are you saying that Utah is moving in to Colorado right now in the wind?

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