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Old 10-25-2013, 08:44 PM   #3136
ducnut
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I'm wondering if they want you to spray out of sunlight because the product may dry too quickly to flow out. Or, it may be that it'll skin the surface and prevent off-gassing, which will cause bubbles under the skin.
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Old 10-25-2013, 09:54 PM   #3137
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I suspect you are correct if you were to spray it on thickly.... I took a scrap piece of metal and tried doing a "thick coat" on it to see how it laid down; it is amazing the "reaction" that goes on with the product (it fizzes almost like soda) when it is first introduced to air.

Completely different then paint.
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Old 10-26-2013, 07:32 AM   #3138
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Just a tip on spray cans I found online. Soak the can in hot water for 20 min. before starting. It makes a huge difference in the spraying!
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Old 10-26-2013, 08:17 AM   #3139
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Building an Adventure Van

Quote:
Originally Posted by vinsonrider View Post
Just a tip on spray cans I found online. Soak the can in hot water for 20 min. before starting. It makes a huge difference in the spraying!
I am a fan of warming the cans too... Yesterday I sat them in the sun for 45 mins until they were warm to the touch.

Hot water is a great idea for when the sun isn't warm enough... I'm going to remember that. Thanks!



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Old 10-26-2013, 08:50 AM   #3140
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Originally Posted by vinsonrider View Post
Just a tip on spray cans I found online. Soak the can in hot water for 20 min. before starting. It makes a huge difference in the spraying!
Great tip.
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Old 10-26-2013, 02:01 PM   #3141
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Works quite well. I went with the coffee can to hold the hot water as the paint can tends to float when it's mostly empty.

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Old 10-26-2013, 05:09 PM   #3142
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I haven't plastidipped wheels myself, but I've seen it suggested to use index cards to prevent tire overspray... not sure if it takes more work than it saves.

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Old 10-26-2013, 05:33 PM   #3143
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I spent the day pulling things apart for "final assembly".

So many times I've "thrown things together" right before a trip just to make it work for the trip (one of the nice features of 8020 - it is great for prototyping!)... knowing at some point I'd have to go back and "do it right".

That day has come.

For example...

Looking at these two old file photos from when I originally designed the folding bed platform:


The top of the platforms obviously have to be flat so that the platform you sleep upon is flat.
At the time when I built them I only had "external L brackets" available, so I assembled the frames (for the folding center parts) with those L's on the bottom to keep the top flat. The issue is that then when you fold the platform, they don't sit completely flush because of the width of the brackets.

If you notice in this old file photo, when the bed is folded down the bottom of it is 8mm out from sitting flush due to the width of the brackets.. I put a red arrow where I'm referring to:


Sure.. it has worked great for over a year and dozens of nights of camping.. but it's not "right".. and it bugs me.

So during Final Assembly I'm taking things all apart and fixing small things like this as I put things back together into their final location (and we've used the Van enough now to be sure we are very happy with the configuration so I don't forsee it changing again).

Final Assembly: Folding Bed Platform

...first pull the two frames and disassemble them. This is the hardware I had used when I hastily put them together the first time:


The new assembly of these particular sections is built with fully internal hardware.
This requires tapping the ends of connections and drilling cross access holes to allow the allen wrench to assemble:


...and here is the hole that allows you to put an allen key through the slot to snug up the head on the other side:


Here's how the ends work:


A center brace added for strength (there was some flex in the old design):


Both platforms are now assembled with no external bracketry - allowing for the bed platform to be flat on top, and for flush folding when retracted. This is the right side platform which is smaller (the bed is asymmetrical - wider on the left side - so that if I'm travelling alone with my bike I can sleep on one side with the bike still in the van)



Trim:

Now, during final assembly I know exactly where each panel is going to end and what is going to be exposed.
This means I can start to put some of the 80/20 trim in place that we'd planned since the start.

For example:

Due to the way the folding hinge is, when folded down there are 80/20 slots visible.
In the past year, these slots have collected the expected dirt, dust & debris:


The trim press-fits into the slots


...and really gives the permanently exposed edges a nice finished look (I'll post better pics once the final assembly panels are all in place).




...of course after all of this talk of "final assembly" I got off on a tangent playing with a "retractable mountain bike mount" for each side that will let the bikes be put in/removed without any overlap (a pet peeve I've had lately with all the biking we've been doing).

quick and dirty for testing:




...I'll get back at it tomorrow.

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Old 10-27-2013, 07:48 AM   #3144
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Wheels look great.

"Final assembly"

Speaking of bike mounts - my version of the 80/20 Moto Bike Carrier - part Thule from the 80's, part Yakima from the 90's and part eBay from the teens. Thanks for the idea.

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Old 10-27-2013, 02:29 PM   #3145
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Stereo Update:

The final goal is a balanced, 10 speaker, 4 "zone" system.

Zone 1 is when you are driving.
Zone 2 is outside of the slider door - light music for when relaxing under the awning or whatnot.
Zone 3 is laying in bed
Zone 4 is behind the van. Wrenching on the bikes or whatever and you want to jam some tunes.

Currently I'm up to 8 speakers installed.

Zone 1 is now awesome! Close your eyes and the sound is perfectly centered in your head.
Zone 2 is now done as well.

I need to install two more speakers in the rear doors to complete Zone 3 and 4. They'll have to be a combo speaker that includes some midrange and some tweeter because they are so far from the front set; or I might get fancy and put in a manual crossover and seperate some independent tweeters up into the corners. I'll also have to do a manual fader to balance Zone 3 between the middle speakers and the rear doors as the head unit doesn't have zone ability.

I had Speakers 7 & 8 installed a year or more ago when the van's configuration was different:


Although the speakers looked cool there.. they were in a location they were going to get beaten to death (and in a location that no longer exists in the final layout - lol). The goal was to have them equi-distant from our heads when driving down the road to the speakers by our knees - and the tweeters in the corners - which would also nicely place them in the doorway for under-the-awning music.

I had mounted the speaker in the door cabinet a while back but never hooked it up (waiting until when I could get its matching speaker mounted on the other side).



I finally got up the gumption to go after that cabinet with the jigsaw today (measure 234508 times, cut once).



...which gave a matching set


Next issue is that the speaker is now exposed in a cabinet we use a LOT


2 minutes with the band saw...


Fits perfect


...and some d-amplifier to make sure there is no buzzing or vibration


The speaker is now safe at a minimual cost to interior space.
This will all be covered up when we do the final interior fabric install.

Up to the head unit to give it some balance..



Wow! It sounds great!

One issue... The sub-woofer box is up against the fridge. Pushing 200amps into the sub I have no doubt that if I listen to this song (or any song full of sub):

....at a volume of say 32+; I can blow up any beer that is in the fridge

I think when I do the fridge insulation box (which is soon on the list) I'm going to include a layer of Luxury Liner Pro between the fridge and the sub.

We also happened upon some "kitchen utensil" organizers that work really well up in the dash cubbies

They were something like $4 at bed bath and beyond.
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Old 10-28-2013, 05:11 PM   #3146
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I have a question for anyone experienced in insuring "highly customized vehicles".

Say my van (in its cargo version) is currently worth 25k (picking a number out of the air).
If some asshat crashed into me and wrote my van off and that was all insurance paid.. I'd lose my shirt.
With the amount of time, money and effort I've put into my build say I put the replacement value of my van closer to $50k (again picking a number out of the air).

Is there a way to insure a vehicle for a value I define as opposed to someone on the other end of the phone who has no idea what I'm talking about?

I saw a bad accident this morning where a really nice vehicle was destroyed through no fault of the owner and it got me to thinking. Sure I have a perfect driving record for over 25 years and have never had an accident (knock on wood) but that doesn't mean I can't have some texting teenager cross the center line and hit me head on...
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Old 10-28-2013, 05:28 PM   #3147
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geek View Post
I have a question for anyone experienced in insuring "highly customized vehicles".

Say my van (in its cargo version) is currently worth 25k (picking a number out of the air).
If some asshat crashed into me and wrote my van off and that was all insurance paid.. I'd lose my shirt.
With the amount of time, money and effort I've put into my build say I put the replacement value of my van closer to $50k (again picking a number out of the air).

Is there a way to insure a vehicle for a value I define as opposed to someone on the other end of the phone who has no idea what I'm talking about?

I saw a bad accident this morning where a really nice vehicle was destroyed through no fault of the owner and it got me to thinking. Sure I have a perfect driving record for over 25 years and have never had an accident (knock on wood) but that doesn't mean I can't have some texting teenager cross the center line and hit me head on...
I believe what you are looking for is called "declared value" insurance.
Fairly common for custom show cars and restoration. From what I have read it's not always easy to get.
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Old 10-28-2013, 05:34 PM   #3148
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Originally Posted by boardrider247 View Post
I believe what you are looking for is called "declared value" insurance.
Fairly common for custom show cars and restoration. From what I have read it's not always easy to get.
Agreed value actually. That's the agreed value of the vehicle that the insurance company will pay out no questions asked (for a totalled vehicle)
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Old 10-28-2013, 06:29 PM   #3149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geek View Post
I have a question for anyone experienced in insuring "highly customized vehicles".

Say my van (in its cargo version) is currently worth 25k (picking a number out of the air).
If some asshat crashed into me and wrote my van off and that was all insurance paid.. I'd lose my shirt.
With the amount of time, money and effort I've put into my build say I put the replacement value of my van closer to $50k (again picking a number out of the air).

Is there a way to insure a vehicle for a value I define as opposed to someone on the other end of the phone who has no idea what I'm talking about?

I saw a bad accident this morning where a really nice vehicle was destroyed through no fault of the owner and it got me to thinking. Sure I have a perfect driving record for over 25 years and have never had an accident (knock on wood) but that doesn't mean I can't have some texting teenager cross the center line and hit me head on...
I had a van that had enough customization that I asked my insurance agent (State Farm) about it. They added a line item to my policy called "Customization" with my declared value of the work.
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Old 10-28-2013, 06:58 PM   #3150
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Quote:
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I had a van that had enough customization that I asked my insurance agent (State Farm) about it. They added a line item to my policy called "Customization" with my declared value of the work.
They do it with motorcycles (accessories and all that). It would have surprised me if you couldn't do it with cars.
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