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Old 12-15-2013, 08:33 AM   #3211
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geek View Post
Hey where were you yesterday?
Grinding a new Tier 7 TD...


.mobile
Helping one of my soldiers move....in a snow storm.


I did find another one of your videos though. This isn't quite as hard hitting as the unboxing above, but close.

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Old 12-16-2013, 10:06 AM   #3212
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The great thing about that fabric is the weave isn't such that it shows not being perfectly lined with the edge of a panel. I think it's a great choice and looks really nice and factory.

I'm guessing, a finishing washer/screw system would look pretty nice and be absolutely secure.



I'm not sure push fasteners could be used, without a foam underlayer to hide its appearance under the fabric. Then, you'd have to find a style that's long enough and completely flat across the head. Of course, installing the panels and not allowing the fastener to push out against the fabric could be a challenge, too.
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Old 12-16-2013, 10:31 AM   #3213
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I agree. Push fasteners would be non-servicable also.

Could pop a hole, soldering iron on the fabric after wrapping, then use those Honda style plastic rivets. Would save lots of time on riv-serts
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Old 12-16-2013, 10:48 AM   #3214
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One of the biggest headaches on this project is sourcing what I need.

3 local lumberyards.. none carry 1/8" plywood.
none carry 1/8" closed cell foam sheets.

I did manage to find this contact cement that was recommended

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Old 12-16-2013, 10:49 AM   #3215
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Can you show a backside pic of the wedge cuts vs stretching and stapling?

Seems as though flatter the better for mounting/appearance - maybe even glue the panels in place and not have numerous fasteners showing?

Having a hard time seeing how batting would improve anything except hold moisture

Here arethe original two corners... in the next post I'll show some more stuff I just tried



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Old 12-16-2013, 11:03 AM   #3216
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Experimentation.

Since I don't know what I'm doing, I am trying to pick pieces that do not really matter, and that are less expensive to screw up. Even with the part I attempted today, there is probably $30 worth of materials on the line if it goes wrong.

Education is expensive

I figured my "next easiest" piece to try would be one of the lower door panels:


Not having any luck finding 1/8" ply locally, I thought I would give some 1/8" masonite a try

I traced the shape onto the masonite with a sharpie:



1 minute with the table saw, 5 minutes with the band saw and 1 minute with the drill press and I have this:


Checking to make sure which side of the masonite faces outward:


Cut out a big enough piece of interweave


Spray it with contact cement, let it sit a few minutes


...then start folding over and stapling


First corner I tried this.. seemed to work ok:




For this concave curve I just cut slits and pulled:


Tried just cutting slits on this and pulling too


Pneumatic stapler is making life sooooooo good (I would have hated to try and hand press staples into masonite)



Flipped it over and.... saw that there is a big wet stripe where I put the contact cement on too thick



Other than that it came out great. Whether that wet spot will go away when the cement dries? No idea.
I guess I'll know in a few hours.

Oh well, lesson learned, be more careful with the cement (especially when it is cold and I'm working below its recommended temperature. Perhaps I need to warm the glue cans up in some hot water first

Used a punch to locate the holes




and used the stock press fasteners to mount the panel on the door



The results:

Old plastic on the left, new tweed on the right:



This photo reminds me... I need to grow a pair and cut the holes for the back windows still

So there it is.
If the cement stripe doesn't dry/disappear, I've spent $30 on more education.
If it does dry.. it looks good!


Geek screwed with this post 12-16-2013 at 11:10 AM
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Old 12-16-2013, 02:00 PM   #3217
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Can I ask why you are replacing the panels and not just covering the OEM ones ?
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Old 12-16-2013, 02:37 PM   #3218
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The OEM panels are coroplast... When we bought the van it didn't have windows so the coroplast panels are not the right shape for what we are doing.

This particular panel I could have just covered but I specifically wanted to use it as a test for working with the Masonite which I'm hoping to build the walls and ceiling with.


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Old 12-16-2013, 03:22 PM   #3219
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Oh well, lesson learned, be more careful with the cement (especially when it is cold and I'm working below its recommended temperature. Perhaps I need to warm the glue cans up in some hot water first quote


If the garage is too cold, why aren't you working adhesives on the kitchen counters, living room, etc? Kitchen ovens work great for heating/hardening spray paints, etc....
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Old 12-16-2013, 07:25 PM   #3220
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Oh well, lesson learned, be more careful with the cement (especially when it is cold and I'm working below its recommended temperature. Perhaps I need to warm the glue cans up in some hot water first quote


If the garage is too cold, why aren't you working adhesives on the kitchen counters, living room, etc? Kitchen ovens work great for heating/hardening spray paints, etc....
Because when I do that I have to sleep in the garage
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Old 12-16-2013, 07:44 PM   #3221
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That panel looks nice. Masonite is not my favorite material. . . if you could get 1/8" baltic birch, that stuff is really the shit for what you're doing- around here the hardwood/cabinet maker supply place has it for $10 per 5'x5' sheet. The other option is (nominal) 1/4" birch ply in 4x8 sheets, it's usually more like 3/16" or even a bit thinner, it's definitely not 1/4".

Have you tried any panels with a thin foam behind the fabric or with the padding you got?
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Old 12-16-2013, 07:53 PM   #3222
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The local lumberyard has 1/4" ply (which is 3/8) but it is quite a bit heavier than the masonite and not nearly as flexible (I need to be able to match the curves of the ceiling/walls).

We haven't tried any foam backing yet. Apparently OSV uses 1/8" ply with 1/8" closed cell foam glued to it.. then the fabric.. that said I can't find 1/8" closed cell foam fabric sheet anywhere locally and am hesitant to order $100+ worth of the stuff without testing it first.

Chicken & Egg.
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Old 12-16-2013, 08:04 PM   #3223
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In my limited experience of working upholstery, that glue spot should clear up. I've seen and done much worse, and they all disappeared.
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Old 12-16-2013, 08:13 PM   #3224
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In my limited experience of working upholstery, that glue spot should clear up. I've seen and done much worse, and they all disappeared.


...as long as it wasn't <15C when the glue was applied, it'll just disappear completely.






Well, really, I have no idea.
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Old 12-16-2013, 08:40 PM   #3225
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The local lumberyard has 1/4" ply (which is 3/8) but it is quite a bit heavier than the masonite and not nearly as flexible (I need to be able to match the curves of the ceiling/walls).

We haven't tried any foam backing yet. Apparently OSV uses 1/8" ply with 1/8" closed cell foam glued to it.. then the fabric.. that said I can't find 1/8" closed cell foam fabric sheet anywhere locally and am hesitant to order $100+ worth of the stuff without testing it first.

Chicken & Egg.
Yeah. All I can say is that if there's a local place that does hardwood/cabinet grade plywood, that's where I'd head to look for some nice 1/8" ply. I'd send you some, but I get the feeling that shipping plywood is not going to be economical

I see a lot of stuff packed in the thin (1/16 or 1/8") closed cell white foam, especially appliance parts. Maybe some of that would give you an idea of the look if you thought you wanted to try it. And These guys have 1/8" foam pretty cheap.
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