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Old 11-25-2011, 06:53 PM   #916
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It is more like 2 plates.. one over the other.

There is an acentric post in the middle connecting them and then about a foot in diameter there are little roller wheels that the chair's weight is on as it rotates.

I haven't looked into if it is a roller wheel or the central post that's squeaking... but I'll get to it eventually
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Old 11-25-2011, 07:00 PM   #917
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These are the only photos I currently have.. I'll try to get "innard" photos another time



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Old 11-25-2011, 07:35 PM   #918
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Ironically.. I think it runs on delron wheels.. I have to take a closer look. For all I know the squeak could be one of my mounting bolts not being snug
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Old 11-25-2011, 08:05 PM   #919
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I have a torque wrench.. the german instructions didn't come with a torque spec
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Old 11-25-2011, 08:10 PM   #920
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the german instructions didn't come with a torque spec
These -- http://www.brakeproducts.com/ajax-uj/p29.htm -- will do in a pinch.
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Old 11-26-2011, 04:45 PM   #921
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How many taps do I own... and you think I could find an M8 1.25?



nope.. off to sears (where the guys are also getting to know me by name...)

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Old 11-26-2011, 04:46 PM   #922
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When we got back from snowboarding I was happy to find some of my connectors had arrived... specifically my end connectors.

When making a 3 way corner junction... you need a bit of a trick to be able to do inset panels like I'm doing in that any connector hardware you use is going to block up one of the tracks.

These guys to the rescue



It is a way for you to connect an intersection without an external bracket.

First you tap the end of the piece you are going to bolt into:


80/20 is super easy to tap thanks to the design of the holes.. the cut material just falls through while you cut.. no need for "back and forth".



Next.. I take the jig I bought:


and mount it flush with the end and then run the drill press all the way through


This gives me a hole that is in perfect alignment with the threaded hole in the end stock.


Why do I need this hole? For allen wrench access to tighten the two pieces together






You tighten it down and you have a firm end connection


with only a minor slot intrusion



When doing a piece that slides into another, you can "preload" the extrusion


slide it in.. then snug it down on both ends.
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Old 11-26-2011, 04:54 PM   #923
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Doing things "right" takes time.

When I did the first panel a few weeks ago... it was "close". I was just "throwing it together" but it came out so nice I thought I could live with it. It turns out my opening was just slightly bigger than the exact width of 6 of my boards I put it together with spacers and gaped it even on both ends: nobody would ever notice.

But it was bugging me.

So I took it all apart and did it again... right.

With the new end connectors I had to notch the wood to go around them. No big deal... 30 seconds with the dremel

..and voila


Insetting both ends and I had a great fit:


However, after insetting the proper 4/10ths, the gap was significant on the other end.

8/10ths of an inch significant.

So I fired up the table saw and went after making just the right size 8/10ths by 21.1" piece with 4/10ths routing on 3 sides... and then notching it so that it'd fit around the end connector as well. Ended up being quite a complicated little strip.

...but the effort was worth it






The results: One "perfect" panel. (or perfect enough for me )





...now only 2450852408x10e23 to go.
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Old 11-26-2011, 05:10 PM   #924
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geek View Post
I have what looks like exaclty the two same tap sets... A Craftsman Metric and a Hanson/Ace standard
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Old 11-26-2011, 05:26 PM   #925
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I'm curious what your added weight estimate/goal is for the project?

It looks incredible, and I'm sure it will be awesome when you are done, but you are definitely adding materials (notably all the sound dampener and the solid wood) that are not the lightest...

Knowing how thorough you are, I'm sure you have thought it through carefully when you made your build-out decisions.

But at first look, it makes me think about Colin's mantra...
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Old 11-26-2011, 06:02 PM   #926
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Good question.

The sound damping is significant. 468lbs was the shipping weight (I'm not sure if we'll use it all). This is weight I have no problem justifying considering the 3+ hours I spend in this thing every weekday and considering the impact it has made on overall comfort of the vehicle. By the time we are done this should be an exceptionally quiet van and that is important to me.

The wood is amazingly light because the hardwood is actually planed quite thin.
It is 10mm thick (we considered some stuff that was a full 25mm thick.. it was gorgeous but it was just too heavy )
It is actually significantly lighter than if we'd used plywood or particle board like the "van builders" do (i.e. sportsmobile, etc).

All of the 80/20 with connectors, etc I'd imagine is going to come out about 300lbs by the time everything is done.
It is the "light series" but it is still quite significant. the ULS (ultra light series) would have likely been adequate but it isn't available in the smooth finish that I prefer.

After you throw in other items like the 75lbs in seat swivels, house batteries, fridge, stove, sink, etc etc.. it is surely going to add up.. but I have no idea what the total number is going to be.

I'm not sweating it though.. if you look at those "full RV" conversion sprinters that sell for $100K+ - it'll be significantly lighter than any of them could ever hope to be. The van is definitely up to the task.

It was 5440 lbs when I started with the van stripped. I'll weigh it after it is done.. and then I'll weigh it again after we store 1000 lbs of snowboards/snowshoes/flygear/mountainbike gear/dirtbike gear/ etc in it If you consider the 170" extended van is the same powertrain/engine/etc.. and it starts at ~6200lbs.. I have 800lbs before I'm "up to zero" for what mercedes produces "stock" (how's that for self-serving logic).

With sprinters, the general consensus is that the "weight penalty" on gas mileage is not too significant compared to aerodynamics. Putting things like roof racks, nerf bars, etc on the things tends to really impact the mpg numbers. I'm guessing that the flarespace would cost the van ~1mpg.

My mileage has changed slightly more than 1mpg due to the AT tires.
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Old 11-26-2011, 06:55 PM   #927
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These -- http://www.brakeproducts.com/ajax-uj/p29.htm -- will do in a pinch.
Interesting link...I noticed that it specifies less torque for a lubricated bolt...can anyone explain to me why that is the case? I've actually read on forums where people say just the opposite?
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Old 11-26-2011, 07:26 PM   #928
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With the lubricant it takes less rotational force to reach the required longitudinal tension as you have less friction to overcome?

Just a guess
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Old 11-27-2011, 12:14 PM   #929
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With the lubricant it takes less rotational force to reach the required longitudinal tension as you have less friction to overcome?

Just a guess
That's correct. There are some applications that measure a bolt's torque through measuring its stretch. Pretty technical stuff.
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Old 11-27-2011, 01:10 PM   #930
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That's correct. There are some applications that measure a bolt's torque through measuring its stretch. Pretty technical stuff.
What about loctite...does that change the torque?
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