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Old 06-20-2012, 01:15 PM   #31
Emmbeedee
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Originally Posted by stephen.stallebrass View Post
What grease did you use? Is it a lithium grease?
Elbow grease.

















It's not critical. Wheel bearing grease works well for me.
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"The motorcycle, being poorly designed for both flight and marine operation, sustained significant external and internal damage," police noted.
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Old 06-20-2012, 07:12 PM   #32
Snowy
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Some of the guys are recommending marine grease, like you use on boat trailer bearings and such.

A grease with a soap base, I believe. Or lithium base.

I think the basic premise with marine grease is that it absorbs the water, and has anti corrosion additives. So instead of washing out the grease, and leaving rust etc behind, the water actually becomes part of the lubricant. It's not supposed to absolutely piss wet, just absorb condensation and such that's likely to accumulate due to immersion and washing etc getting water past the seals.

I use a general purpose truck chassis grease (with a lithium base) that I mix molybdenum and graphite into. Some may not like this, but I've found all around that it resists wash out, handles high temps, and has an anti seize, anti galling quality so I can also use it as anti seize on bolts etc.

I've probably made some mega toxic death brew, but it works well....so...meh.
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Old 06-21-2012, 12:05 AM   #33
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Thanks.
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Old 07-01-2012, 06:13 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by Snowy View Post
To give you an idea, with nothing but trail riding on the DR650 I do it once a year...so every 10~15,000kms or so. It gets a work out, and the bearings get wet with the high pressure washer. I do all the wheel bearings, swing arm pivot, linkage etc at the same time.

The BMW has 40,000 kms on it in the last year and I'm about to do it. I'm prepared to let it go longer because the bearings were replaced when I bought it, and it's not had the high pressure washer near the steering bearings. I'll do the wheels, swing arm pivot etc all at the same time.

It's maybe a 20~30 minute job for the steering head. Jack it up, remove the top triple, drop the lower triple enough to get grease in by lifting the bike on the jack, grease the bottom, drop the jack, grease the top, back together. I don't plan on removing the bars.

Unless it's full of dirt I don't plan washing them out. Just work the new grease into them. If it's full of dirt, out comes the tin of degreaser...liberal use...wipe it clean...pack with grease.

A hell of a lot easier than changing the sparkplugs.
Sounds like a good plan. I just finished checking / adjusting a friend's F800GS head bearings and they are notched. This is the second set, originals lasted to 20K miles, now with 40K miles they need to be replaced again. This is not good service for a relatively smooth running twin that sees off road conditions less than 5% of the time. I believe singles are harder on head bearings because of the vibes.

I think your plan of checking/greasing/adjusting should lead to longer life. Given BMW's reputation for low grade wheel bearings and chains I guess I'm not surprised. I wonder if the non-oem bearings are longer lasting.
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Old 07-02-2012, 06:16 AM   #35
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Snowy, if you don't remove the bars, how are you going to release the 10mm Allen at the top?
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Old 07-02-2012, 06:55 AM   #36
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Snowy, if you don't remove the bars, how are you going to release the 10mm Allen at the top?
It would be possible to get a short 10mm allen wrench in there, especially if a steering damper or risers were fitted, raising the bars. On the F650GS we have I can loosen the top nut without removing the bars because we have Rox Risers on it.
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"The motorcycle, being poorly designed for both flight and marine operation, sustained significant external and internal damage," police noted.
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Old 07-02-2012, 07:19 AM   #37
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Get urself a 10mm Allen wrench with a ball end on the long end of it and you don't need to take the bars off,, i am a mechanic by trade so didn't use a torque wrench either to tighten them back up and they work just fine.
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Old 07-02-2012, 07:39 PM   #38
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This shows how much room there is to adjust the top bolt with bar risers.

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"The motorcycle, being poorly designed for both flight and marine operation, sustained significant external and internal damage," police noted.
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Old 07-03-2012, 11:10 AM   #39
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Andi and EmmBee, thanks.
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Old 07-04-2012, 01:28 AM   #40
LukasM
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Originally Posted by acap650 View Post
I think your plan of checking/greasing/adjusting should lead to longer life. Given BMW's reputation for low grade wheel bearings and chains I guess I'm not surprised. I wonder if the non-oem bearings are longer lasting.
Get a set of better quality bearings next time, e.g. SKF. They will be cheaper than OEM, too.
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Old 07-22-2012, 03:06 PM   #41
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Anyone knows if the F800GS and F650GS Twin use the same upper and lower bearings/cups?
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Old 07-22-2012, 03:14 PM   #42
LukasM
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Anyone knows if the F800GS and F650GS Twin use the same upper and lower bearings/cups?
Yes, all the same.
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Old 09-24-2012, 06:32 PM   #43
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Get a set of better quality bearings next time, e.g. SKF. They will be cheaper than OEM, too.
Is there a post somewhere that lists all the part numbers for suitable bearing replacements like SKF's? I need to check and possibly replace headset, front/rear wheel, and swing arm bearings.
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Old 09-25-2012, 02:10 PM   #44
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For the headset I am told they are:
28mm ID, 52mm OD, 16mm thick tapered roller bearing
Here in USA the Napa Auto Parts P/N: BR32 This is an SKF that meets the spec.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=716362




For the wheel bearings - on the F800GS I was told all five of them, are 6204-2RS

Someone said that the F658GS may use 6203-2RS




I can't help on the swing arm bearings....



(I've not yet replaced mine so I can not guarantee this is correct information .. but it's a start)




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Old 09-25-2012, 05:21 PM   #45
LukasM
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SKF 320/28 X/Q is the number for the steering stem, same one for top and bottom.
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