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Old 08-30-2011, 11:07 PM   #16
btcn OP
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Woodsrat thanks for the long reply! I always love long informational replays!

I'll definitely look into getting these forks straightened and do some more research on the forks.

Also I've been repairing Refrigerators and Air Conditioners along with other appliances and may have a little extra money to spend on this project soon. Today the clutch took a crap. I was riding it and it pretty much gave up and is semi seized, so I'm really starting to look into the Lifan route. I'd keep the old motor and maybe fix it and do something with it, but in the meantime a Lifan should do.

Now I don't know much about the mount either, but I would assume it could be adapted to work if it ain't right.

What motor would you recommend? If I do end up getting it street legal, I'd want 55 MPH minimum, with upwards of 60 MPH the sweet spot. If its this small it better keep and have spare power! Acceleration whatever so long as it keeps up I'm happy, decent pep would be nice. Would a Lifan 110 cc 4-Speed be up to this? Or should I be looking at the 125/140 cc or 150 cc models?
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Old 08-31-2011, 12:07 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by btcn View Post
What motor would you recommend? If I do end up getting it street legal, I'd want 55 MPH minimum, with upwards of 60 MPH the sweet spot. If its this small it better keep and have spare power! Acceleration whatever so long as it keeps up I'm happy, decent pep would be nice. Would a Lifan 110 cc 4-Speed be up to this? Or should I be looking at the 125/140 cc or 150 cc models?
As far as the clone motors go, a lot depends on if you want to keep the clutch or not. Manual clutch, 140 would be the way to go for a reliable engine, since these are easily and commonly available from places like DrAtv. If you want an auto clutch (as I'm doing with my C70), 120 is the highest you can go, it seems. [ http://www.dratv.com/newengines.html ]

Regarding title & registration - it's a piece of cake in CA if the bike has fallen out of the system (no reg for > 7 yrs), which I presume it has. The folks at the DMV will give you the details, but they'll just instruct you to take your bill of sale/title if you have it, and the (complete) bike down to the CHP where they'll verify the VIN#, make sure its not stolen & send you on your way. Not a big deal & no need to risk plate-swapping shenanigans.
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Old 08-31-2011, 10:46 AM   #18
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The Pitster Pro motors (my personal favorite) are reliable and maybe even too fast for this application. Do you REALLY want to go 55 on this??? My street-legal 88cc BBR XR-50 is pretty hairball with 10" wheels at 45--maybe the chopper fork will stabilize your bike. I'd hate to hit a chuckhole at 55 with 8" wheels, though...

Lifans have an excellent reputation for reliablity, too. 'Twere mine I'd go for a 90 or 110cc autoclutch four-speed. Let us know what you find out on the engine mounts.

Given the SL-90 is a rare bird I'd venture to guess that motor would bring pretty good money to a restoration guy and would help finance the rest of the rebuild.
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Old 08-31-2011, 07:34 PM   #19
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Thank you both for the replies.

bdjuju regarding the motor auto clutch or not doesn't really matter at all to me. Whatever motors a good deal with the performance I need is all I care for. I have seen a 125 cc 4 speed auto clutch motor on Hooper Imports though but I think thats the limit for auto clutch. And as for the registration yes I think it's doable, BUT the only small issue is I don't have ANY paperwork. Not even a bill of sale, I have no proof I own it. But I suppose if its that long out of the system [Since 1983! Thats 28 years since it was last registered!]. I could just say I lost the paperwork or whatever i guess if they have no records and it wasn't stolen. But it doesn't seem stolen, its got a key and everything. I'll definitely give DMV a call and see if I can get some detailed steps. But I suppose first I'd need to make it road worthy again? Like signals, headlight, mirrors all that? Appears to be wired for it, but only the brake light/license light are left, and they both work.

Woodsrat those Pitster Pro motors appeal to me! Great prices, almost like the same as Hooper Import's bigger motors, but thes look a lot more performance oriented! Damn that 155Z? 155 cc on that little minibike?

It sounds suicidal! But I like the sound of 155 cc on an 80 pound or less bike! And it ain't just any 155 cc, its designed for performance! That thing would probably get me to 80 MPH with correct gearing! I don't think I got the guts to exceed 65 MPH though, and thats on backroads with no traffic! Yea it feels smooth I think I could do 55 MPH on it.

My Elite 150 scooters a pretty typical 153 cc scooter, weighs about 230 pounds, and is a CVT which is less performance than a manuel close ratio 4 speed, and it doesn't rev like hell and wasn't designed for racing, but it gets right up to speed and doesn't take a lot of throttle to be ahead of traffic. So imagine this little thing! The looks on people faces when you smoke em off the line!

Thanks for the idea on the Pitster Pro! And yea I think selling the motor to someone who desperately needs an SL90 motor would be a good idea! Could be a cheap but awesome project that way!

I'll look at the mounts and also I'm going to pull the motor apart tonight just to see whats wrong with the clutch so I'll know.
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Old 09-01-2011, 08:17 AM   #20
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One nice thing about your chassis--there's no worry about the front wheel hitting the cylinder head of the 155 motor like on some of the stock Honda-style minis. The Pitster motors are a bit longer than a standard Honda (or clone) motor.

I like how the Pitsters usually come with everything including an oil cooler, carburetor, air cleaner and electrics, a real plug-and-play setup. One thing you'll have to change if you get the 155--these motors usually come with an internal* rotor ignition and you'll have to add a full flywheel and a stator with a lighting coil to the purchase.

If you go this route we expect videos of you riding it.


*Edit: The Pitster Pro web site says it comes with an "outer rotor" ignition but from the picture it's much smaller than a full flywheel and I don't think has any lighting coils. Check on this if you order one. The last 140 we ordered came with an internal rotor ignition. We put it in an XR-70 chassis and it rocked!!!
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Old 09-01-2011, 08:12 PM   #21
btcn OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodsrat View Post
One nice thing about your chassis--there's no worry about the front wheel hitting the cylinder head of the 155 motor like on some of the stock Honda-style minis. The Pitster motors are a bit longer than a standard Honda (or clone) motor.

I like how the Pitsters usually come with everything including an oil cooler, carburetor, air cleaner and electrics, a real plug-and-play setup. One thing you'll have to change if you get the 155--these motors usually come with an internal* rotor ignition and you'll have to add a full flywheel and a stator with a lighting coil to the purchase.

If you go this route we expect videos of you riding it.


*Edit: The Pitster Pro web site says it comes with an "outer rotor" ignition but from the picture it's much smaller than a full flywheel and I don't think has any lighting coils. Check on this if you order one. The last 140 we ordered came with an internal rotor ignition. We put it in an XR-70 chassis and it rocked!!!
Yea they look pretty sweet!

But you mean they don't have a generator for running lights? It'd be a bummer if theres no easy fix, thanks for letting me know I'll really have to look into that!

As for videos, don't worry once I really get this project going they'll be lots of better quality pics and videos!

The 140 motor would be fine.

I'll look into it and let you know.
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Old 09-01-2011, 08:56 PM   #22
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Looks like you are fresh out of spare time,,, Good luck with your project.
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Old 09-01-2011, 10:26 PM   #23
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I've gotten clutches unstuck by first changing the oil, then run it in neutral, put the front wheel up against a tree or a wall, and with the engine running a little above idle, pull the clutch lever and ram it into gear. I sounds brutal, but it seems to shock the clutch enough to free it. I'm sure people will tell you this is crazy, so fine, do it their way.
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Old 09-02-2011, 05:25 PM   #24
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...But you mean they don't have a generator for running lights? It'd be a bummer if theres no easy fix...
It's an easy fix. All you need is a flywheel puller (about $15) and I'd recommend having an impact driver (the hammer kind) to remove the two screws that hold the stator in place in the motor. Lay the motor (or bike) on it's right side, remove the left sidecover and you're looking at the flywheel (or in the case of an inner rotor-type ignition the whole sheebang). Remove the flywheel nut (either using an electric or air impact or a suitable means of holding the flywheel in place, such as a strap wrench), then screw in the flywheel puller (left hand threads). If it's an inner rotor-type ignition it requires a special puller so if you order a motor with one of these I'd have Pitster go ahead and swap ignition setups for you. I can't remember what I paid for the Kitaco inner rotor tools and they're pricey but available from CHP.

Anyway after the flywheel or rotor is off use the hammer-type impact driver to remove the two screws holding the stator plate in and pull the stator out. Replace it with the lighting coil type stator, lightly greasing the "O" ring on the edge of the plate before installing it. Reinstall the screws, giving them a light tap with the impact. Make sure the taper on the crankshaft is clean and the key in place before installing the full flywheel. Holding the flywheel with the strap wrench torque down the nut. Done.

Like I said if you're ordering up the motor from Pitster go ahead and have them swap stators/flywheels so your new motor will be a plug-n-play setup.
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Old 09-02-2011, 11:52 PM   #25
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Are you getting ready to join the Shriners when you retire or what ?
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Old 09-03-2011, 08:27 AM   #26
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Are you getting ready to join the Shriners when you retire or what ?
Naw, small Hondas are just another obsession of mine...
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Old 09-04-2011, 10:29 PM   #27
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Thanks for all the info.

gasandasphalt yea looks like I am! Thanks I'll need the luck with this one!

Wentwest sounds like a great idea to me! I'm probably going to open the motor up just to check the clutch, and if I don't see anything to obvious then I'll definitely give that a try! Thanks for the idea!

Woodsrat I'll do that if I do decide on a new motor, the Pitster seems so sweet! If the Clutch requires some money I'll probably go for either a Pitster or a Lifan 140.
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Old 09-05-2011, 09:42 AM   #28
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SL90s are a bike that have all of their electric's powered by the battery/alternator. So no easy fix for running the headlights off the alternator. Do the Radio Shack bridge diode fix and a fresh battery. That particular engine is used on the S90, CL90, and the SL90, but it appears your's is from an SL90. I would be a little worried about the strength of the front forks, it looks like a home-made chop with extended tubes and they appear to be bent. Speed on this bike would be a bad idea because of the weird geometry the PO added when extending the forks.

I know, I'm such a killjoy.
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Old 09-05-2011, 02:30 PM   #29
btcn OP
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SL90s are a bike that have all of their electric's powered by the battery/alternator. So no easy fix for running the headlights off the alternator. Do the Radio Shack bridge diode fix and a fresh battery. That particular engine is used on the S90, CL90, and the SL90, but it appears your's is from an SL90. I would be a little worried about the strength of the front forks, it looks like a home-made chop with extended tubes and they appear to be bent. Speed on this bike would be a bad idea because of the weird geometry the PO added when extending the forks.

I know, I'm such a killjoy.

Yea I'll have to figure me somtin out for them lights.

As for the forks I'll fix the bike first and take it to 55 and see what happens! No just kidding first I'll look into fixing them and then gradually take it to speed and see if its reasonably stable or not.

I'm about to go take it apart and look into that there clutch right now.

Also what kind oil do these little motors call for? Would 10W40 Synthetic Motorcycle oil be fine?
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Old 09-05-2011, 08:35 PM   #30
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Some bike's clutches slip with synthetic oil--others have absolutely no problem. On the bottle you'll see a little circle and most oils have the words "Energy Conserving." These oils have the slickum that theoretically help give you more gas mileage. Again some folks have found that these oils make their clutches slip, synthetic or not.

A favorite oil of many adventure riders on this site is Shell Rotella, the 15w40 diesel oil. It is NOT an "Energy Conserving" oil and the additives for the abuse diesel engines go through make this a super-duper oil for gasoline engines. It performed extremely well in Motorcycle Consumer News two oil tests and can be bought in bulk to save money, very important for the elcheapo KLR riders. Another good thing for adventurers is the fact that it's available everywhere. Wally World has it for under $14 a gallon.

It's also interesting to note that MCN found no bad motor oil among those they tested. I guess it's just a matter of choosing your favorite color bottle.

One other thing--the factory Honda Baja team recommended NOT running the Honda semi-synthetic oil in their XR-600R racers due to the clutch slippage it induced. On the other hand I regularly run synthetic Rotella in my XR-650L (virtually the same motor) and experience no problem with my clutch whatsoever. I ride my bike on the street as a commuter/road bike and don't hammer it in the dirt. Would I suffer slippage with harder use? No clue.

Like religion and politics everyone has their own opinion on what oil to use and this ought to be a subject for C, S & M.
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Eek!! More boring fiction--"One Last Ride in the Hoosier Revisited":
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