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Old 05-31-2015, 12:01 AM   #1
mach1mustang351 OP
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Location: Alaska
Oddometer: 663
Agressive DL650 Maintenance

I just put another 3,400 miles on the trusty 2007 V Strom and I am thinking about maintenance. I have had this bike since new and it has been taken care of, but if one were seeking a possible "zero failure" maintenance schedule what would be done and when?

When should things that fail be done before given the opportunity to fail?

Wheel bearings, steering head bearings, fork seals and fluid, swing arm bearings etc. Any help or advise appreciated here.
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Old 05-31-2015, 12:53 AM   #2
rlkat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mach1mustang351 View Post
I just put another 3,400 miles on the trusty 2007 V Strom and I am thinking about maintenance. I have had this bike since new and it has been taken care of, but if one were seeking a possible "zero failure" maintenance schedule what would be done and when?

When should things that fail be done before given the opportunity to fail?

Wheel bearings, steering head bearings, fork seals and fluid, swing arm bearings etc. Any help or advise appreciated here.
For 'zero failure' replace everything, everyday and you should be fine.

Seriously though, just checking what you can regularly and following the recommended service schedule is the best thing to do. Some people do oil changes before the recommended period but I thinks it not necessary unless you're riding it hard. As long as you can recognise if something's not quite right you should be able to fix it before it lets you down. The vstrom has a very good reputation fo reliability. I nearly bought the 650 version but bought a TDM900 instead. Wish I'd bought the vstrom.
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Old 05-31-2015, 01:23 AM   #3
PeterW
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Rear suspension linkage bearings, steering head bearings. Lube both sets and adjust the front.

Check the bolts on the steering stem that hold the front plastics on.

There really isn't a lot else.

Pete
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Old 05-31-2015, 04:09 AM   #4
greywolf
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Install headlight relays. They will head off overtaxed connector and switch failure. The headlight cutout section in the starter switch especially likes to fail. http://www.stromtrooper.com/informat...-problems.html

Use anti seize on the rear axle nut to prevent galling and reduce the torque to 58lb-ft to make up for the lubrication effect. http://www.stromtrooper.com/general-...ad-galled.html

Replacing the regulator/rectifier with a series rather than a shunt type could hold off stator failure. http://www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php/topic,20426.0.html
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Old 06-01-2015, 12:51 PM   #5
DSM8
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Other Tips:
- Wheel Bearings : Check them everytime you change tires, if they feel the slightest bit gritty or rough replace them.
- Wheel Bearing Seals : Same as above, the spacers should fit snug, pack some grease in behind them before putting wheels back on bike after tire change
- Brake Pads: Visually inspect often, close inspection with each oil change. I had a set of pads go from good to gone in under 3K for no apparent reason.
Air filter: Depends on your riding, just street commuting change every 10K more dirt then do more often.
- Chain Adjuster Blocks : Remove the end cap and anti-sieze the long bolt. This is a one time thing
- Counter-shaft Seal : Check with every chain replacement. I assume you religiously lube the chain
- Cush Drive Bumpers : check and lube with lithium grease with every tire change (your already in there so why not)
- Clutch Cable: Lube it once a year, if you ride in rain then twice. Check fro fraying at both end each oil change
- Clutch Actuator: That lever thing the cable is attached too, that should be taken off the bike cleaned and greased about once a year, make sure it is adjusted properly too
- Valves: every 16-18K miles

I pretty much did this and had over 135K miles on my strom (same year as yours) when I got rid of it. They bike is still being ridden to this day by the new owner.
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Old 06-01-2015, 01:18 PM   #6
greywolf
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It's best not to lube control cables except for grease on the barrel ends. The cables are Teflon lined and lube just attracts dust and turns it into grinding paste.
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Old 06-01-2015, 02:20 PM   #7
DSM8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greywolf View Post
It's best not to lube control cables except for grease on the barrel ends. The cables are Teflon lined and lube just attracts dust and turns it into grinding paste.
That is a good point, I was referring to the cable specific dry lube that is injected into the housing. I should have been more specific.
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