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Old 09-22-2011, 08:19 AM   #256
Seth S
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Location: sanity?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenD View Post
Lets lay down a problem that i dont seem to be able to fix right now.

Ive bought my '08 690 enduro a week or so ago, knowing that it was not at it's best and been trying to get it healthy again.

The symptoms:
Bike wont make a 100 mp/h, 98 is it.

Wont wheely like it should, barely lift's the front in second, none in third, at 15/45 gearing. There's just no throtle response.

Takes a long time to hit the rev limiter in 4'th gear, starting from 7000something rpm, it's like 5 or 10 seconds, has trouble getting above 8000 rpm.

Bike just feels less agressive than my 640 with CV carb, if i want smooth, i'd get a beamer :)


What i've done so far:
Cleaned the trothle body and fuel line
New fuel filter, old one was really dirty!
new fuel screen, the old one was NOT attached to the pump...
took out the injector and washed it with brake cleaner (no power applied)
No fi error's
adjusted the valves and full service.

Mapping:
Akra map and custom map tried, no real diffrence.


After going for a ride with DR Bean his bike, i know there is a LOT, and I mean a LOOOOOOT more agressiveness and power possible with the bike, I want that!!! :)

Oh thank you, guru's, for bringing back the powerrrrrr!
any idea apreciated!
Have you set your map switch to position 2 or 3? Sounds like its set to position #1
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Old 09-22-2011, 09:49 AM   #257
Barman
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Joined: Apr 2011
Location: Saratoga Springs, NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenD View Post
Lets lay down a problem that i dont seem to be able to fix right now.

Ive bought my '08 690 enduro a week or so ago, knowing that it was not at it's best and been trying to get it healthy again.

The symptoms:
Bike wont make a 100 mp/h, 98 is it.

Wont wheely like it should, barely lift's the front in second, none in third, at 15/45 gearing. There's just no throtle response.

Takes a long time to hit the rev limiter in 4'th gear, starting from 7000something rpm, it's like 5 or 10 seconds, has trouble getting above 8000 rpm.

Bike just feels less agressive than my 640 with CV carb, if i want smooth, i'd get a beamer :)


What i've done so far:
Cleaned the trothle body and fuel line
New fuel filter, old one was really dirty!
new fuel screen, the old one was NOT attached to the pump...
took out the injector and washed it with brake cleaner (no power applied)
No fi error's
adjusted the valves and full service.

Mapping:
Akra map and custom map tried, no real diffrence.


After going for a ride with DR Bean his bike, i know there is a LOT, and I mean a LOOOOOOT more agressiveness and power possible with the bike, I want that!!! :)

Oh thank you, guru's, for bringing back the powerrrrrr!
any idea apreciated!
If you didn't apply power the injector isn't clean. The backflush only works if the injector is open, power applied.
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Old 09-22-2011, 10:57 AM   #258
R-dubb
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Location: San Francisco
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albie View Post
Aaaaccckkkkk!! No thanks! Had enough wiring issues with this damn bike without adding to it,
It's no wonder. The harness layout on this bike looks like it was designed by a fourth grader. Dangling plugs, wires that crossover every which way. It's a shame, since the hard bits are so elegant. Two different design groups, apparently.

Take a look at a Husky 610 by contrast. Every connection has a bracket that keeps stuff in place. More labor to build the bike, but it adds to the package. Sadly, most buyers won't know the difference, but another couple of hundred on the price tag has ripple effects.


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Old 09-22-2011, 11:11 AM   #259
blakrj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oz-Strom View Post
I have a problem with removing the rear handles that bolt through the guard into the tank. I am wanting to fit my pannier rails, but on one of the bolts, the nut that I presume is embeded in the plastic of the tank, is turning, and therefore not coming undone. I expect I will have to remove the tank to get at it, but how do I do that if I can't get the guard off?

Anybody have some advice on how I can resolve this and re-fix the nut (when I get it apart)?

Thanks
Trust you didnt use loctite when you put them in to start? Suggest a good soaking of penetrating oil. Difficult to get it close, but depends on how much of a gap there is between the plastic and the rails/bolts. If this fails, the only way I can think of is to use a drill to spin them at high speed. This will result in the bolt being freed from the tank and you'll then need to epoxy them back (had similar issue with my bolts on a Yamaha tank). Before you put them back, use some anti seize to make sure it doesn't happen again.
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Old 09-22-2011, 11:37 AM   #260
R-dubb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blakrj View Post
Trust you didnt use loctite when you put them in to start? Suggest a good soaking of penetrating oil. Difficult to get it close, but depends on how much of a gap there is between the plastic and the rails/bolts. If this fails, the only way I can think of is to use a drill to spin them at high speed. This will result in the bolt being freed from the tank and you'll then need to epoxy them back (had similar issue with my bolts on a Yamaha tank). Before you put them back, use some anti seize to make sure it doesn't happen again.
Not sure this will work. I seem to remember the inserts being embedded such that they are bigger in the center than at the top.
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Old 09-22-2011, 02:15 PM   #261
Albie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R-dubb View Post
It's no wonder. The harness layout on this bike looks like it was designed by a fourth grader. Dangling plugs, wires that crossover every which way. It's a shame, since the hard bits are so elegant. Two different design groups, apparently.
Don't get me started, I've had to repair the air intake temp sensor wiring 4 times now.
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Old 09-22-2011, 04:30 PM   #262
StevenD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth S View Post
Have you set your map switch to position 2 or 3? Sounds like its set to position #1
I'm at position 2, and tested the switch for the right resistance. Also in the custom mapping the position 1 is also full power. Clutch switch works, so it's not running in clutch map either.

Quote:
If you didn't apply power the injector isn't clean. The backflush only works if the injector is open, power applied.
The whole backflush procedure is not that clear to me... Do i put the injector on the pump, backwards, or do i use a bottle of brake cleaner or something? Does it have to be pressurized?

Do the symptoms match a dirty injector?
Pfiew, carbs aint easy either, but at least I know them and undertand their signals!!!
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Old 09-22-2011, 04:40 PM   #263
andykeck
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Location: Santa Barbara, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenD View Post
The whole backflush procedure is not that clear to me... Do i put the injector on the pump, backwards, or do i use a bottle of brake cleaner or something? Does it have to be pressurized?
I have a short piece of plastic tubing that fits snugly over the business end of the injector. I fill that tube with carb cleaner or contact cleaner, then I jam a syringe that fits in the open end of the tube. I apply power to the injector and push on the syringe at more or less the same time. I repeat the process a couple times for good measure.
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Old 09-22-2011, 05:15 PM   #264
Barman
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Location: Saratoga Springs, NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenD View Post
I'm at position 2, and tested the switch for the right resistance. Also in the custom mapping the position 1 is also full power. Clutch switch works, so it's not running in clutch map either.



The whole backflush procedure is not that clear to me... Do i put the injector on the pump, backwards, or do i use a bottle of brake cleaner or something? Does it have to be pressurized?

Do the symptoms match a dirty injector?
Pfiew, carbs aint easy either, but at least I know them and undertand their signals!!!
The injector in a non powered state is closed.
When low voltage is applied the injector opens allowing the brake cleaner to flow back through the injector purging the little foreign bits with it.
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Old 09-22-2011, 05:28 PM   #265
R-dubb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barman View Post
The injector in a non powered state is closed.
When low voltage is applied the injector opens allowing the brake cleaner to flow back through the injector purging the little foreign bits with it.
It is more of a one way valve. It will allow fluid to push through backwards even when in a closed state, from my observation. I put a short length of tight fitting clear tubing on the nozzle end. Load some carb fluid whilst holding the open end up and holding the tube on tight. Then fire it through with compressed air. The fluid runs through. No power required.
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Old 09-22-2011, 05:37 PM   #266
Barman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R-dubb View Post
It is more of a one way valve. It will allow fluid to push through backwards even when in a closed state, from my observation. I put a short length of tight fitting clear tubing on the nozzle end. Load some carb fluid whilst holding the open end up and holding the tube on tight. Then fire it through with compressed air. The fluid runs through. No power required.
The compressed air pushes the valve open then. There is definitely an open/closed position. That's been my experience anyway but it's been a few years since my pro mechanicin' days. Don't really miss it but 20 years experience sure comes in handy saving a few bucks these days.
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Old 09-22-2011, 09:29 PM   #267
Oz-Strom
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Location: Brisbane Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R-dubb View Post
Not sure this will work. I seem to remember the inserts being embedded such that they are bigger in the center than at the top.
Hmm - so it would appear to be a tricky issue to resolve. Will try again on the w/e and see where I get to.

Thanks for the advice.
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Old 09-23-2011, 06:55 PM   #268
DirtJack
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Location: San Antonio, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pole View Post
What's the fuel line outer diameter, the one inside the fuel tank? I'm planning a filter change and as far as I know, the OEM clamps will have to be destroyed. I'd like to know what size of the clamps I should buy, before I start fiddling with the filter? Many thanks in advance. P.
OD = 7.5 mm. The OEM clamps have to be cut off. It's hard to find screw clamps that small. MotionPro has the OEM crush clamps.
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Old 09-24-2011, 05:59 AM   #269
ststrider
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Location: kingston ont canada
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safari tank question

anyone know if the safari tank fits with a corbin seat?i want to build an dual sport touring bike and the 690 enduro r seems like the best platform.my old klr is about to hit 100,000km and i think its time for an upgrade.
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Old 09-24-2011, 07:03 AM   #270
Sutherngintelmen
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Joined: Mar 2009
Location: ATL
Oddometer: 1,207
Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtJack View Post
OD = 7.5 mm. The OEM clamps have to be cut off. It's hard to find screw clamps that small. MotionPro has the OEM crush clamps.
Clamp post from mega gone by. Sourcing linky

This is a better style than the one eared for field servicing. It is a pressure ready proper FI clamp for use in high vibe environs.

Be very careful disconnecting the cheap plastic quick connect - good to time upgrade Met the proprietor 2 weeks ago while traveling on biz in NJ - he was wearing a beemerboneyard T, nice guy.


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