New and improved KTM690 WUNDERFEST

[LukasM]

Albie,

You do know that the 690 Supermoto / Duke frame is different from the 690 E / R / SMC / Rally (some extra brackets welded on) frame that came out later, right?

IMO the bad turning radius is simply a result of KTM designing the frame for optimal stiffness, triangulation and all that.

BMW compromised a bit in this regard but did a good job on the F800GS frame, the parallel twin is super wide and yet they managed to give it a 42° (or thereabouts) steering angle due to how the frame tubes are narrow near the neck before bowing out. Now that rear shock mount however, WTF were they thinking?!?

[Seth S]

Originally Posted by Albie

No same year, 2007. BTW, how many people bought a 690 Rallye? Oh wait, they weren't available EVER.

though the 690RR is the same frame but with a 650 motor instead of the crazy factory motor...if i remember correctly.

[LukasM]

Originally Posted by Seth S

though the 690RR is the same frame but with a 650 motor instead of the crazy factory motor...if i remember correctly.

The 690 Rally was first raced in Jan. 2007, and I think that the E/R/SMC were then based on that frame, at least all the main tubes and the geometry.

Btw the 690RR had a 654cc engine as well. Feels a lot stronger than a standard 690, but the actual non-Replicas are supposed to be in another league still.

[Uller]

Originally Posted by Albie

No same year, 2007. BTW, how many people bought a 690 Rallye? Oh wait, they weren't available EVER.

Albie, not to pile on but, it seems like quite a few lucky individuals have purchased a 690 Rallye.

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=542250

[Albie]

Originally Posted by Uller

Albie, not to pile on but, it seems like quite a few lucky individuals have purchased a 690 Rallye.

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=542250

No biggie, but you hear everyone complain on here about all the short comings of the 690 and most of those complaints never apply to the SM/SMC's. Like that not so wide tranny ratio. Not great for a dual sport, but damn it's great on a track. That hard to control throttle is a PITA in rough stuff, but works flawlessly when you're railing on corners and all you care about is instant throttle response and you're either WFO or closed. That easy to damage radiator while riding off road. Or that pesky hot running thermostat that has the fan running all the time while you're slogging along in 1st gear on technical trails, yet isn't any bit of a concern when you're running at 90 MPH in 6th.

Can't understand why so many want to get their panties in a bunch.

[BK.RD.RNR]

If it helps.
I spent the last 2 weekends camping off of my 690, and the only issue I had was the tailight popped out from vibration, and the sand that got into the socket with the dialectric grease. I pulled the trusty screwdriver out of my KTM tool kit, as well as a paper towel, and was on my way with no other issues. Aproximately 1300 miles total, with about 70% dirt, and offroad.

Oh yeah, and I have close enough to call it 30,000 miles on this bike.

I love the 690!!

[Greg@RME]

Originally Posted by Roadracer_Al

Quite possibly the counter shaft seal. Just had to replace mine on my '08.

Originally Posted by Albie

Kickstand, no aftermarket ones I've ever seen.

Countershaft leak, kind of a KTM thing. It's either the seal, or the bushing. The seals a couple bucks, the bushing is like 20. Sometimes you can just put a bigger O-ring behind the bushing and that will stop the leak for a bit.

Clutch leak, probably master cylinder and you can't see it leaking because it's mixed in with the CS oil leak. Lot of folks just ditch the stock MC for a Sigutech.

Turning radius, it's a supermoto bike converted to a dirt bike. You'll just have to live with the street bike turning radius.

Thanks guys, I appreciate the info.

Didn't mean to start a war about the turning radius, I do ride tight trails and it will come into play. I'm going to tweak the steering stops so the forks almost touch the radiators and call it good.

[Maurizio]

Originally Posted by Albie

No it doesn't, the 690 SM is the exact same bike as the Enduro.

Maybe you are referring to the SMC, a "spinoff" with 17inchers of the enduro.
The SM (aka Spy vs. Spy) entered production in 2006, before the various off road 690 versions, such as the Rallye factory, the Baja and the '08->current Enduro.

[Maurizio]

Originally Posted by Barman

What are you trying to say Maurizio?

Ehm...

[Maurizio]

Originally Posted by Velociraptor

I still do not understand why the 690 has such a poor turning radius but my 990 Supermoto R also with a trellis frame has a great turning radius???????

It's a triple clamps matter: the sumo versions of both 690 and 950/990 have inline axle forks, and triples with slighty more offset.

My old 950 adv didn't have a better turning radius than the 690, and they share the "advanced" axle forks.

So, back to the 690 enduro, they designed a trellis that fits around the airbox and, as Barman wrote, they put the radiator a little bit too high: I have removed the steering stop bolts, and the fork tubes hit the frame (on the top part of the trellis) and the radiator cover. BTW, leaving only the screws without the stopping bolts and screwing them all in will make a little better turning radius and the fork legs barely touch the plastic frame cover.

[Velociraptor]

Originally Posted by Maurizio

It's a triple clamps matter: the sumo versions of both 690 and 950/990 have inline axle forks, and triples with slighty more offset.

My old 950 adv didn't have a better turning radius than the 690, and they share the "advanced" axle forks.

So, back to the 690 enduro, they designed a trellis that fits around the airbox and, as Barman wrote, they put the radiator a little bit too high: I have removed the steering stop bolts, and the fork tubes hit the frame (on the top part of the trellis) and the radiator cover. BTW, leaving only the screws without the stopping bolts and screwing them all in will make a little better turning radius and the fork legs barely touch the plastic frame cover.

Thanks for the explanation!

[Night Crawler]

My bike has never even missed a beat, and always starts on first crank until this weekend. I went to start it mid-way through a ride when the bike was hot and it just cranked over continuously but would not start until I cranked the throttle wide open and bam it fired right up. It ran perfectly until I got back and would not start again. I have been able to start it the same way since, but it is very difficult. After it starts, its seems to run fine. I can hear pump coming on normally, and I changed the spark plug and cleaned the air filter. I have found no loose connections, only what looks to be a missing ground on the left side of the frame right below the air box bushing mount, but I can not find a wire that would go there. Is this an extra grounding point or was something going there that I cant find? Thank you for any help.

[CanadianX]

Broke the OEM signal light and water getting into my brake light popped the bulb, sucked to ride home after dark with no tail marker light. Now looking for integrated tail/signal light that is LED and seals better than the OEM lights. Any thoughts? Pics??? Bike is a 2012 KTM 690 Enduro R.

[Night Crawler]

Originally Posted by CanadianX

Broke the OEM signal light and water getting into my brake light popped the bulb, sucked to ride home after dark with no tail marker light. Now looking for integrated tail/signal light that is LED and seals better than the OEM lights. Any thoughts? Pics??? Bike is a 2012 KTM 690 Enduro R.

I bought one of these
http://www.ebay.com/itm/KTM-690-SMC-...#ht_500wt_1203

Nice unit, very bright and keeps the fender and plate from getting ripped off by the back tire. Add the Sicass flush mount signals and you're done!

[bobzilla]

Originally Posted by Night Crawler

My bike has never even missed a beat, and always starts on first crank until this weekend. I went to start it mid-way through a ride when the bike was hot and it just cranked over continuously but would not start until I cranked the throttle wide open and bam it fired right up. It ran perfectly until I got back and would not start again. I have been able to start it the same way since, but it is very difficult. After it starts, its seems to run fine. I can hear pump coming on normally, and I changed the spark plug and cleaned the air filter. I have found no loose connections, only what looks to be a missing ground on the left side of the frame right below the air box bushing mount, but I can not find a wire that would go there. Is this an extra grounding point or was something going there that I cant find? Thank you for any help.

TPS adjustment probably. How does it idle? Did you try just a tiny throtttle opening to start?
I am pretty sure that is just another grounding point. Both sides have one if I remember right