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Old 07-05-2012, 11:10 AM   #4351
nippybit
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Standard Map Setting/Jerkiness

Quote:
Originally Posted by NumNum View Post
Hi all. I have a 2012 690 and want to start playing with the various mappings! I ride quite a bit of rocky terrain and I find the standard setting a tad to aggresive My switch under the seat has no reference marking by which I can try and set it, so I'm stumped on that front.
I read on another forum that some time back I Leo Vince brought out a switch that replaces the switch under your seat and the control gets attached to the bars with 3 settings. The guy that posted indicated that he got the part on KTMTwins. I searched for this part but cannot find it there!
I love my bike but would really love it should I be able to switch between mappings on the fly and without having to take the seat off!
Any advise would be appreciated!
Among other things you might want to try a softer throttle cam. KTM carries a kit of three throttle cams, one of which is soft. The cams are made by a company whose name I have forgotten, G something I think. You will find the KTM part under their Hard Parts listing. With the standard map setting the soft cam eliminates most of the jerkiness.
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Old 07-05-2012, 11:24 AM   #4352
LukasM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uller View Post
Lukas,

Thanks for the correction and additional info. Much appreciated. I am still learning most of this stuff and am all when it comes to the finer technical aspects . I'm more of Cliff notes kinda guy..... (I've never bought a cliff notes book though)

Just so I don't make the same error again and so I understand you correctly, If I were to replace "Shunt" with "Diode" in my explanation above would I then be correct?
It's not like I'm an expert either, I just know some stuff I read on the internet so it must be true!

The stock R/R is a "thyristor" type, I corrected that in my above post. But yeah, other than that I your explanation was good.

From what I have seen the Shindengen FH012 R/Rs seem to charge around 14.4 volts which will lower stator temps a bit and should be better for the LifePo4 batteries. Another good option for the 690 would be a FH008 (e.g. used on the new CBR600RR), it will have enough capacity and is a bit smaller.
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Old 07-05-2012, 11:39 AM   #4353
LukasM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nippybit View Post
Among other things you might want to try a softer throttle cam. KTM carries a kit of three throttle cams, one of which is soft. The cams are made by a company whose name I have forgotten, G something I think. You will find the KTM part under their Hard Parts listing. With the standard map setting the soft cam eliminates most of the jerkiness.
G2 Ergonomics.

The 100 cam is like stock, from then on they are more and more progressive, 400 is the mildest.
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Old 07-05-2012, 01:53 PM   #4354
wino975
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uller View Post
Just so you know, I have not purchased from this guy but, he is new to the vendors and is selling a Shindengen MOSFET kit with the unit, connectors and fuse holder. http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=802680

I bought basically the exact same thing from another guy (roadstercycle.com) and if I were to do it again, I would buy from JHammer just to keep it in ADVRIDER. (Plus, I don't like the breaker style fuse that they supply with their kit for a dirt bike.)

You can do a bunch of research on the interweb on these. I believe that they were stock on an R1 and are basically newer technology than the Shunt (see correction to this) style regulator that comes stock. The Triumph forums are a great resource as those bikes had big problems with the Shunt Style (see correction/additional info below).

Here is another vendor: http://www.roadstercycle.com/

His site also has a bunch of info related to charging systems and links for the MOSFET vs. Shunt data.

I am of the opinion that this is a must do for the bike, certainly if running a LiFePo4 Battery. When a shunt style regulator breaks, 19 volts is where it usually heads and this will be intermittent on most occasions so it is hard to diagnose. It causes problems with the Fuel Injection system and the computers and will fry a LiFePo4 battery in no time. Luke ended up having this problem on his Africa trip.
thanks for the infos
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Old 07-05-2012, 03:10 PM   #4355
Gros Buck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uller View Post
...
I used rubber condoms to plug my stuff. (Juste like in the picture below) My air valve is gone.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Uller View Post
I had a Rectfier/Regulator malfunction with the OEM unit and upgraded to a MOSFET style. Its connectors interfered with the coill in the stock location/mounting method so I moved it a while ago to the other side with rubber insulated hose clamps. It really doesn't affect what I have done to the air box. Just another mod....
From what I know, the rectifier should be preferably grounded on the frame. I did it twice rather then once ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigbugberg View Post

Whenever I remove my airbox, i'll post a picture here ... But essentialy that is the area to watch. I rerouted both the breather hose AND the cable cluster you see on the left. And cable is now around 4" lower. And do not touch the fan much anymore.

Paul Jr
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Gros Buck screwed with this post 07-05-2012 at 06:30 PM
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Old 07-05-2012, 03:29 PM   #4356
LukasM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gros Buck View Post
From what I know, the rectifier should be preferably grounded on the frame. I did it twice rather then once ...
It is grounded through the wiring and not the housing, the frame is only used as a heat sink.

You could make an even better heat sink with a bracket out of a thick(ish) piece of copper or aluminum. But in general the MOSFET R/Rs stay cool enough and don't need anything fancy.
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Old 07-05-2012, 05:19 PM   #4357
Pundy
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Plastic heel guards as lash points

Anyone out there who uses something like a Giant Loop bag have any issues with the heel guard failing while using it as a tie point for your luggage? They seem a little flimsy to me. Thoughts?
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Old 07-05-2012, 05:46 PM   #4358
Uller
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uller View Post
Yeah, it is in there tight..... You just sometimes never know what stuff will do while being pounded through uneven terrain at 60 plus mph.

With the rear bolts only installed and the front rubber bungs between the tabs on the frame, the front of the airbox can't move side to side, it can't move forward/backward, it can only move up and down. With the front screws installed loosely like i have done, if I push/pull really hard I can get something close of 1/32 to 1/64 of movement only and this is very hard to do. I am completely comfortable with this being durable. I just wanted to warn people that I haven't fully tested this yet.

With the airbox gone, can you get to the sparkplug from the top? I'll look tonight.
I feel weird quoting myself...

Took a look and while it will be a challenge to pull the boot/wire off the spark plug from this angle it most definitely would be possible and the spark plug itself is definitley a 'Yes' as far as access goes.

Also, I had a light bulb go off while I was in the garage. My statement above mentions the only possible movement is in the up/down direction, I started thinking about some foam under the seat to just "snug stuff up" and .... I have a Corbin seat which has a custom seat pan. It actually has rubber bumpers which put pressure on the top of the air box already. You can see some of the round rub marks from them in some of my pics. My airbox is locked in and has all directions of movement stopped by something. I'm still going to leave my disclaimer above but, now feel really confident this is going to work very well.

Uller screwed with this post 07-05-2012 at 05:55 PM
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Old 07-05-2012, 07:21 PM   #4359
Gros Buck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uller View Post
Lukas, Thanks for the correction and additional info. Much appreciated. I am still learning most of this stuff and am all when it comes to the finer technical aspects . I'm more of Cliff notes kinda guy..... (I've never bought a cliff notes book though)
Collective reading here: http://www.shindengen.co.jp/product_...o/catalog.html

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Old 07-05-2012, 08:13 PM   #4360
gen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tattewell View Post
I cant see this bike being tubeless, I have the KTM hardparts Behr rims on my 690 enduro, and they are not tubeless...
I'm pretty sure the 2012 SMC R rims are spoked tubeless rims.
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Old 07-05-2012, 08:14 PM   #4361
gen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LukasM View Post
The tubeless spoked wheels were standard on the 2010+ models, Behr Saxxess.

They all need the upgraded tank bolts.

The 2012 suspension has 25mm less travel on the front, 15mm less on the back.
Muchas gracias! I'll look for a 2010 or 2011 then.
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Old 07-05-2012, 09:35 PM   #4362
Oz-Strom
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wiring heated grips

Is it OK to wire heated grips to the accessory wire behind the headlight cowl? I already have a pair of LEDS and an accessory power outlet wired to that wire. Or is it OK to wire the grips to the low beam power wire?

Thanks
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Old 07-05-2012, 09:55 PM   #4363
dirtbikeslob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pundy View Post
Anyone out there who uses something like a Giant Loop bag have any issues with the heel guard failing while using it as a tie point for your luggage? They seem a little flimsy to me. Thoughts?
i have used my greatloop type strapped to the plastic heel guards,with out a problem,they flex outwards a bit,but seem to handle it ok.
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Old 07-06-2012, 12:30 AM   #4364
motoged
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gros Buck View Post
I used rubber condoms to plug my stuff...Paul Jr
Paul,
Have you seen a doctor about that yet ???


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Old 07-06-2012, 12:48 AM   #4365
motoged
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pundy View Post
Anyone out there who uses something like a Giant Loop bag have any issues with the heel guard failing while using it as a tie point for your luggage? They seem a little flimsy to me. Thoughts?
I have used that plastic piece as a lash point for my Coyote bag for over 4,000 kms of offroad and it has shown no signs of wear or fatigue. I have a heavy duty bungee cord hook I scavenged from a Walmart bungee (that looks more like this: ... and made a loop in the webbing at the hook base and passed the Coyote strap through that....

and NOT these wimpy ones:


:

I noticed BobZ and his gang simply tied a small gauge bit of climbing rope through the hole in that heel piece so it was a 4" long loop ....and then used a carabiner to loop the Coyote strap through.....much simpler than my method

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