New and improved KTM690 WUNDERFEST

[motoged]

Brad,
Great idea....hope it is solidly in there...

Riders,
Uller LOVES his Dremel and will use any excuse at all to whittle away at something with it...






BobZ,
So....keeping the 690 now that it might be easier to change the injector....or whatever else hangs out down there that gives you grief??? Brad will be up here in a few weeks to do three of the days planned for next summer.

Ulterior motive: he knows what to do if I have issues with the bike ....and parts I could scavenge

[wino975]

Originally Posted by Uller

I had a Rectfier/Regulator malfunction with the OEM unit and upgraded to a MOSFET style. Its connectors interfered with the coill in the stock location/mounting method so I moved it a while ago to the other side with rubber insulated hose clamps.

It really doesn't affect what I have done to the air box. Just another mod....

can you give us the model of the new regulator?..... just in case..

[Brute]

Nice work Uller , I think it`ll sit at the front ok . I`ve run mine with out the right front airbox mount bolt for a long time to make it easier to get off in a hurry . Think I`ll go with your mods , drowned mine a couple of times with the Safari tank & it`s a pain . Now to find an easier way to get the spark plug out with the Safari tank on .

[Pantah]

An inmate here emailed me to try the throttle reset procedure to see if it helped the stalling. I did it and so far so good. I rode a fuel load yesterday with no stalling, plus I think my idle is up a little at around 1700rpm.

The procedure is simply turn on the key and slowly turn the throttle to the stop and back.

Can anybody tell me were this trick and the '15 minute idle' trick comes from? It's not in my manual.

Thanks

Originally Posted by Pantah

Possible warning of future issues?


As I've posted before, I plan on leaving my 690 stock in order to avoid the fueling issues posted here. With 1500 miles on it, I have started to have a few instances of sudden death syndrome around stop lights or heavy traffic with a hot motor. It fires right back up, but takes a couple seconds of cranking.

Also, I notice the idle is slightly unsteady sometimes. My other FI bikes are rock steady. Wierd...

[Seth S]

Originally Posted by Pantah

An inmate here emailed me to try the throttle reset procedure to see if it helped the stalling. I did it and so far so good. I rode a fuel load yesterday with no stalling, plus I think my idle is up a little at around 1700rpm.

The procedure is simply turn on the key and slowly turn the throttle to the stop and back.

Can anybody tell me were this trick and the '15 minute idle' trick comes from? It's not in my manual.

Thanks

I cannot say for sure but I suspect it came out of a dealer setting manual or EFI diagnostic manual. Modern EFI systems have the ability to "learn" how their users use them. the 15 minute idle is likely a trick for clearing out any learned rider styles and setting the computer back to a default or base setting...or something along those lines. With cars you can do a similar thing by disconnecting the battery and grounding a wire etc...or at least thats how some cars used to work...its been a while so maybe thats not so common.

So in summary I have a guess and it could be completely incorrect

[tdreyer]

Originally Posted by Albie

+1, wish my SM wheels were tubeless the way I go through damn tires on this sucker.

Have a look at this. I did this probably 50,000mi ago. I now use shoe goo to touch up the nipples during tire changes and I no longer use tape as it always wound up in a ball causing balance issues. If you read through it you'll see many different sealant and epoxy compounds as well as ways to allow for the spokes to be tightened. Depending on what you use your 17's for, mine is commuteing, the spokes may never need to be tightened after initial set.

[NumNum]

Hi all. I have a 2012 690 and want to start playing with the various mappings! I ride quite a bit of rocky terrain and I find the standard setting a tad to aggresive My switch under the seat has no reference marking by which I can try and set it, so I'm stumped on that front.
I read on another forum that some time back I Leo Vince brought out a switch that replaces the switch under your seat and the control gets attached to the bars with 3 settings. The guy that posted indicated that he got the part on KTMTwins. I searched for this part but cannot find it there!
I love my bike but would really love it should I be able to switch between mappings on the fly and without having to take the seat off!
Any advise would be appreciated!

[Maurizio]

Originally Posted by Pantah

Can anybody tell me where the '15 minute idle' trick comes from?

The "trick" is called "Initialization run", and it is due anytime the ecu is flashed; it has become a general habit to do the procedure if something related to intake or exhaust has been modified.

Page 169 of the 690 Enduro Enduro/R Repair Manual:

Start the engine and perform an initialization run.

Guideline

Initialization run: 15 minutes

[Maurizio]

Originally Posted by NumNum

I love my bike but would really love it should I be able to switch between mappings on the fly and without having to take the seat off!

"On the fly" means you have ALWAYS to switch the engine off, change the map selector position, then start the engine again.
I think that this is one of the reasons for the choice of the underseat placement of the map switch made by KTM engineers.

[Seth S]

Originally Posted by NumNum

Hi all. I have a 2012 690 and want to start playing with the various mappings! I ride quite a bit of rocky terrain and I find the standard setting a tad to aggresive My switch under the seat has no reference marking by which I can try and set it, so I'm stumped on that front.
I read on another forum that some time back I Leo Vince brought out a switch that replaces the switch under your seat and the control gets attached to the bars with 3 settings. The guy that posted indicated that he got the part on KTMTwins. I searched for this part but cannot find it there!
I love my bike but would really love it should I be able to switch between mappings on the fly and without having to take the seat off!
Any advise would be appreciated!

The settings for the switch are explained in the owners manual. On the older bikes the settings are:

0 - shitty gas..basically dont use unless you are in the middle of Russia and can only run mud for fuel.

1 - XR400 setting. knocks about 20 hp off the engine, throttle is smooth and linear, bike is completely boring to ride.

2 and 3 - I cannot tell the difference between these two...one is normal and one is sport or aggressive...not a big difference.

4 -10 all the same...They will point to a map but I do not remember which one.

As states you cannot switch between maps on the fly. You could hit the kill switch, change maps, and restart.

[Maxacceleration]

On my '12
0 = poor fuel quality, use for no more than one tank (shitty gas setting)
1 = soft, reduced peak performance (XR400 setting lol)
2 = advanced performance w/extremely direct responsiveness
3-9 = Standard for balanced responsiveness

I am still looking for balanced response .
Today (!) I get the sniffer test and I'll ask about the throttle reset procedure too...

[NovaMoto]

If I select the performance map on my '11 and start the engine it idles at 4k rpm. I actually thought it was a feature of the map! I've remapped, relearned blah blah.

Thoughts?

Originally Posted by Seth S

The settings for the switch are explained in the owners manual. On the older bikes the settings are:

0 - shitty gas..basically dont use unless you are in the middle of Russia and can only run mud for fuel.

1 - XR400 setting. knocks about 20 hp off the engine, throttle is smooth and linear, bike is completely boring to ride.

2 and 3 - I cannot tell the difference between these two...one is normal and one is sport or aggressive...not a big difference.

4 -10 all the same...They will point to a map but I do not remember which one.

As states you cannot switch between maps on the fly. You could hit the kill switch, change maps, and restart.

[NumNum]

Originally Posted by Seth S

The settings for the switch are explained in the owners manual. On the older bikes the settings are:

0 - shitty gas..basically dont use unless you are in the middle of Russia and can only run mud for fuel.

1 - XR400 setting. knocks about 20 hp off the engine, throttle is smooth and linear, bike is completely boring to ride.

2 and 3 - I cannot tell the difference between these two...one is normal and one is sport or aggressive...not a big difference.

4 -10 all the same...They will point to a map but I do not remember which one.

As states you cannot switch between maps on the fly. You could hit the kill switch, change maps, and restart.

Thanks for the response guys. As stated I have no marking on the dial that sts the mapping. So at this stage it is a guessing game! Is there a general point on the casing where I should align the number dial to?

[Bruno T .]

Originally Posted by NumNum

As stated I have no marking on the dial that sts the mapping.

Put your glasses on and look closely at the switch.

There are numbers and a (very) small white arrow that lines up with the numbers.

[Uller]

Originally Posted by wino975

can you give us the model of the new regulator?..... just in case..

Just so you know, I have not purchased from this guy but, he is new to the vendors and is selling a Shindengen MOSFET kit with the unit, connectors and fuse holder. http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=802680

I bought basically the exact same thing from another guy (roadstercycle.com) and if I were to do it again, I would buy from JHammer just to keep it in ADVRIDER. (Plus, I don't like the breaker style fuse that they supply with their kit for a dirt bike.)

You can do a bunch of research on the interweb on these. I believe that they were stock on an R1 and are basically newer technology than the Shunt (see correction to this) style regulator that comes stock. The Triumph forums are a great resource as those bikes had big problems with the Shunt Style (see correction/additional info below).

Here is another vendor: http://www.roadstercycle.com/

His site also has a bunch of info related to charging systems and links for the MOSFET vs. Shunt data.

I am of the opinion that this is a must do for the bike, certainly if running a LiFePo4 Battery. When a shunt style regulator breaks, 19 volts is where it usually heads and this will be intermittent on most occasions so it is hard to diagnose. It causes problems with the Fuel Injection system and the computers and will fry a LiFePo4 battery in no time. Luke ended up having this problem on his Africa trip.