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Old 07-05-2012, 09:10 AM   #4366
Uller
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brute View Post
Nice work Uller , I think it`ll sit at the front ok . I`ve run mine with out the right front airbox mount bolt for a long time to make it easier to get off in a hurry . Think I`ll go with your mods , drowned mine a couple of times with the Safari tank & it`s a pain . Now to find an easier way to get the spark plug out with the Safari tank on .
Yeah, it is in there tight..... You just sometimes never know what stuff will do while being pounded through uneven terrain at 60 plus mph.

With the rear bolts only installed and the front rubber bungs between the tabs on the frame, the front of the airbox can't move side to side, it can't move forward/backward, it can only move up and down. With the front screws installed loosely like i have done, if I push/pull really hard I can get something close of 1/32 to 1/64 of movement only and this is very hard to do. I am completely comfortable with this being durable. I just wanted to warn people that I haven't fully tested this yet.

With the airbox gone, can you get to the sparkplug from the top? I'll look tonight.

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Old 07-05-2012, 09:31 AM   #4367
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruno T . View Post
Put your glasses on and look closely at the switch.

There are numbers and a (very) small white arrow that lines up with the numbers.
I have great 20/20 vision. I can clearly see the numbers on the dial, but there is no arrow to line then up with
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Old 07-05-2012, 09:35 AM   #4368
Uller
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NumNum View Post
I have great 20/20 vision. I can clearly see the numbers on the dial, but there is no arrow to line then up with
I believe that mine has a very small white dot. It is very hard to notice and even after 5 years of ownership I have a hard time finding it sometimes. Look a little closer.
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Old 07-05-2012, 09:36 AM   #4369
Seth S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NumNum View Post
I have great 20/20 vision. I can clearly see the numbers on the dial, but there is no arrow to line then up with

Actually there is. Look at the switch again. Just below the white knob that you can turn on the black housing there is a line or a white line...that indicates which number is selected.
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Old 07-05-2012, 09:39 AM   #4370
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Originally Posted by Uller View Post
Just so you know, I have not purchased from this guy but, he is new to the vendors and is selling a Shindengen MOSFET kit with the unit, connectors and fuse holder. http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=802680

I bought basically the exact same thing from another guy (roadstercycle.com) and if I were to do it again, I would buy from JHammer just to keep it in ADVRIDER. (Plus, I don't like the breaker style fuse that they supply with their kit for a dirt bike.)

You can do a bunch of research on the interweb on these. I believe that they were stock on an R1 and are basically newer technology than the Shunt style regulator that comes stock. The Triumph forums are a great resource as those bikes had big problems with the Shunt Style.

Here is another vendor: http://www.roadstercycle.com/

His site also has a bunch of info related to charging systems and links for the MOSFET vs. Shunt data.

I am of the opinion that this is a must do for the bike, certainly if running a LiFePo4 Battery. When a shunt style regulator breaks, 19 volts is where it usually heads and this will be intermittent on most occasions so it is hard to diagnose. It causes problems with the Fuel Injection system and the computers and will fry a LiFePo4 battery in no time. Luke ended up having this problem on his Africa trip.
Uller,

Your info is a bit incorrect.

Both the stock and your new MOSFET one are shunt style regulators. They let the stator produce full power at all times (permanent magnet charging system). Were the MOSFET has an advantage is that it has more efficient switching circuitry then a thyristor style R/R, so it looses less electricity and generates less heat. It is therefore likely to live longer and a good solution for bikes that only have problems with their R/Rs failing.

A completely different technology are 3 Phase series style regulators, as these will decrease the load on the stator when there is a lower load on the electrical system (by increasing resistance). So less heat is generated in the stator windings and less has to be dissipated by the R/R. These are not widely used yet (the Compufire 55402 is one of the only suitable models) but seem to offer a great improvement for bikes with problematic stators such as the Aprilias, Triumphs and the BMW F800GS.

As far as I have seen even the higher mileage 690s don't heat up their stators too much and therefore fry the insulation, so the MOSFET shunt style R/R is a sufficient and more proven technology.
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Old 07-05-2012, 09:48 AM   #4371
Uller
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Thank You

Lukas,

Thanks for the correction and additional info. Much appreciated. I am still learning most of this stuff and am all when it comes to the finer technical aspects . I'm more of Cliff notes kinda guy..... (I've never bought a cliff notes book though)

Just so I don't make the same error again and so I understand you correctly, If I were to replace "Shunt" with "Diode" in my explanation above would I then be correct?
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Old 07-05-2012, 10:49 AM   #4372
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uller View Post
Lukas,

Thanks for the correction and additional info. Much appreciated. I am still learning most of this stuff and am all when it comes to the finer technical aspects . I'm more of Cliff notes kinda guy..... (I've never bought a cliff notes book though)

Just so I don't make the same error again and so I understand you correctly, If I were to replace "Shunt" with "Diode" in my explanation above would I then be correct?
Just ordered one of those units. It pays off to be a bit paranoid with the 690

FYI I installed the new design of Cycleworks fuel pump with the serrated outlet this weekend, replacing the old stye. The fuel hose was still very solidly on the old style outlet with no sign of coming off but with the new design there is no way it is ever coming off.
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Old 07-05-2012, 11:06 AM   #4373
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KTMTwins.com Rally Raid Tank Order Update

It arrived!!!!! Unfortunately the order arrived to us and after going through all of the orders that we have it was only able to fill all outstanding 2008-2011 Orders and a few 2012 Tank Kit Orders. We have plenty more on order with Rally Raid and hope to see both more 2008-2011 Kits as well as more 2012 Tank Kits to fill the existing few orders we have for customers and have some residual for satisfying instant gratification orders. We received stock on almost every other item they have but now looking at the shelves leaves us low on the Suitcase Carrier System and a few other tidbits which we will notate on our site for reference. Sincere apologizes to everyone who has been extremely patient with Rally Raid's delay in filling this order and with that KTMTwins.com just want to thank everyone once again for being the best customers on the planet as well as our friends. We are shipping all tank kit orders that have been filled based on order date out this week so if you are one of those customers please look out for a email from us with your tracking number.



Quote:
Originally Posted by ktmmitch View Post
I can't comment on Twins' own order situation,but we have stock here in UK
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Old 07-05-2012, 11:10 AM   #4374
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Standard Map Setting/Jerkiness

Quote:
Originally Posted by NumNum View Post
Hi all. I have a 2012 690 and want to start playing with the various mappings! I ride quite a bit of rocky terrain and I find the standard setting a tad to aggresive My switch under the seat has no reference marking by which I can try and set it, so I'm stumped on that front.
I read on another forum that some time back I Leo Vince brought out a switch that replaces the switch under your seat and the control gets attached to the bars with 3 settings. The guy that posted indicated that he got the part on KTMTwins. I searched for this part but cannot find it there!
I love my bike but would really love it should I be able to switch between mappings on the fly and without having to take the seat off!
Any advise would be appreciated!
Among other things you might want to try a softer throttle cam. KTM carries a kit of three throttle cams, one of which is soft. The cams are made by a company whose name I have forgotten, G something I think. You will find the KTM part under their Hard Parts listing. With the standard map setting the soft cam eliminates most of the jerkiness.
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Old 07-05-2012, 11:24 AM   #4375
LukasM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uller View Post
Lukas,

Thanks for the correction and additional info. Much appreciated. I am still learning most of this stuff and am all when it comes to the finer technical aspects . I'm more of Cliff notes kinda guy..... (I've never bought a cliff notes book though)

Just so I don't make the same error again and so I understand you correctly, If I were to replace "Shunt" with "Diode" in my explanation above would I then be correct?
It's not like I'm an expert either, I just know some stuff I read on the internet so it must be true!

The stock R/R is a "thyristor" type, I corrected that in my above post. But yeah, other than that I your explanation was good.

From what I have seen the Shindengen FH012 R/Rs seem to charge around 14.4 volts which will lower stator temps a bit and should be better for the LifePo4 batteries. Another good option for the 690 would be a FH008 (e.g. used on the new CBR600RR), it will have enough capacity and is a bit smaller.
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Old 07-05-2012, 11:39 AM   #4376
LukasM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nippybit View Post
Among other things you might want to try a softer throttle cam. KTM carries a kit of three throttle cams, one of which is soft. The cams are made by a company whose name I have forgotten, G something I think. You will find the KTM part under their Hard Parts listing. With the standard map setting the soft cam eliminates most of the jerkiness.
G2 Ergonomics.

The 100 cam is like stock, from then on they are more and more progressive, 400 is the mildest.
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Old 07-05-2012, 01:53 PM   #4377
wino975
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uller View Post
Just so you know, I have not purchased from this guy but, he is new to the vendors and is selling a Shindengen MOSFET kit with the unit, connectors and fuse holder. http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=802680

I bought basically the exact same thing from another guy (roadstercycle.com) and if I were to do it again, I would buy from JHammer just to keep it in ADVRIDER. (Plus, I don't like the breaker style fuse that they supply with their kit for a dirt bike.)

You can do a bunch of research on the interweb on these. I believe that they were stock on an R1 and are basically newer technology than the Shunt (see correction to this) style regulator that comes stock. The Triumph forums are a great resource as those bikes had big problems with the Shunt Style (see correction/additional info below).

Here is another vendor: http://www.roadstercycle.com/

His site also has a bunch of info related to charging systems and links for the MOSFET vs. Shunt data.

I am of the opinion that this is a must do for the bike, certainly if running a LiFePo4 Battery. When a shunt style regulator breaks, 19 volts is where it usually heads and this will be intermittent on most occasions so it is hard to diagnose. It causes problems with the Fuel Injection system and the computers and will fry a LiFePo4 battery in no time. Luke ended up having this problem on his Africa trip.
thanks for the infos
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Old 07-05-2012, 03:10 PM   #4378
Gros Buck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uller View Post
...
I used rubber condoms to plug my stuff. (Juste like in the picture below) My air valve is gone.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Uller View Post
I had a Rectfier/Regulator malfunction with the OEM unit and upgraded to a MOSFET style. Its connectors interfered with the coill in the stock location/mounting method so I moved it a while ago to the other side with rubber insulated hose clamps. It really doesn't affect what I have done to the air box. Just another mod....
From what I know, the rectifier should be preferably grounded on the frame. I did it twice rather then once ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigbugberg View Post

Whenever I remove my airbox, i'll post a picture here ... But essentialy that is the area to watch. I rerouted both the breather hose AND the cable cluster you see on the left. And cable is now around 4" lower. And do not touch the fan much anymore.

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Gros Buck screwed with this post 07-05-2012 at 06:30 PM
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Old 07-05-2012, 03:29 PM   #4379
LukasM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gros Buck View Post
From what I know, the rectifier should be preferably grounded on the frame. I did it twice rather then once ...
It is grounded through the wiring and not the housing, the frame is only used as a heat sink.

You could make an even better heat sink with a bracket out of a thick(ish) piece of copper or aluminum. But in general the MOSFET R/Rs stay cool enough and don't need anything fancy.
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Old 07-05-2012, 05:19 PM   #4380
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Plastic heel guards as lash points

Anyone out there who uses something like a Giant Loop bag have any issues with the heel guard failing while using it as a tie point for your luggage? They seem a little flimsy to me. Thoughts?
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