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Old 07-10-2012, 08:31 PM   #4426
Head2Wind
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heptad View Post
I need help with installing led turn signals. Anyone install these? Says to cut the purple and black wires coming from indicator light. It is part of the wire harness. Should I do this?
the plugs are available on Digikey pretty inexpensively..... I will have to dig for the PN or URL reference. otherwise clip and splice from the OEM signals
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Old 07-10-2012, 09:59 PM   #4427
777
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Originally Posted by Hooked View Post
I have been noticing my 08 (20,000 Kms) getting harder to start when I first fire it up after sitting over night or all day. Spark plug has about 6000kms,
valves have been done recently and that was no help,
tried different brands of fuel no different
even replaced the battery with a Shorai but it still starts hard! Any one able to shed some advice on a fix?
It usually starts very easy.
I am watching this one, I have some storey with 10 000km on my 08, done servce, osne valves, cgecked TPS, and mapping ,checked auto decompress lever etc, running out of option, new plug , checked the gap.
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Old 07-11-2012, 12:11 AM   #4428
wino975
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Originally Posted by 777 View Post
I am watching this one, I have some storey with 10 000km on my 08, done servce, osne valves, cgecked TPS, and mapping ,checked auto decompress lever etc, running out of option, new plug , checked the gap.
check also the coil and the spark plug cable
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Old 07-11-2012, 05:34 AM   #4429
MookieBlaylock
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Originally Posted by Aanarchy View Post
Front signals required buying the sicass relay to replace the stock one to make them flash properly. I'm a mechanical dweeb and an electrical retard and I figured it out.
my back signals were destroyed so i thought i could replace with the sicass leds but they dont blink right until i get the relay. Do i have to get new front leds also to make it work right? if so they will be $14 ebay specials
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Old 07-11-2012, 05:48 AM   #4430
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 777 View Post
I am watching this one, I have some storey with 10 000km on my 08, done servce, osne valves, cgecked TPS, and mapping ,checked auto decompress lever etc, running out of option, new plug , checked the gap.

I have struggled with erratic idling, stalling and hesitation at lights. The bike runs great otherwise. Yesterday I built a little tool to clean the injector as I have exhausted everything else. Going to clean the injector today for a ride I am going on the next day. Got my fingers crossed.
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Old 07-11-2012, 07:27 AM   #4431
777
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Originally Posted by empedrado View Post
I have struggled with erratic idling, stalling and hesitation at lights. The bike runs great otherwise. Yesterday I built a little tool to clean the injector as I have exhausted everything else. Going to clean the injector today for a ride I am going on the next day. Got my fingers crossed.
Keep us posted
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Old 07-11-2012, 07:47 AM   #4432
Aanarchy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MookieBlaylock View Post
my back signals were destroyed so i thought i could replace with the sicass leds but they dont blink right until i get the relay. Do i have to get new front leds also to make it work right? if so they will be $14 ebay specials
My rear signals worked fine wiithout the relay. Then I added the front signals nothing would flash until I plugged in the relay. Then all was fine.

There were two relay options from sicass - $$ and $. I got the $ and it worked. Don't remember exact price, but it was minimal.
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Old 07-11-2012, 07:54 AM   #4433
Aanarchy
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Gearing - 14 x 48?

This may be a simpleton question in a thread with so many advanced topics but I need to ask -

Stock gearing was 15 x 45. All the threads I could find on gearing said 15 x 48 was the trick. I'm running a 14 x 45 and thinking about going to a 48 on the rear with the 14 front. Any comments? Anyone have this combo?
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Old 07-11-2012, 08:16 AM   #4434
RickA
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Gearing Ratios

Hi all,

Stock gearing of 15-45 gives you a 1:3.00 ratio, 14-45 gives you 1:3.21 and 14:48 gives you 1:3.43 - a lot lower ratio.

Do you need to go down that far? You are also adding 3 links therefore a new chain.

I run 14-45 and find it a good all-round compromise with std chain length being an additional bonus.

Hope that helps!

Cheers, Rick.
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Old 07-11-2012, 08:36 AM   #4435
nippybit
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Gearing

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aanarchy View Post
This may be a simpleton question in a thread with so many advanced topics but I need to ask -

Stock gearing was 15 x 45. All the threads I could find on gearing said 15 x 48 was the trick. I'm running a 14 x 45 and thinking about going to a 48 on the rear with the 14 front. Any comments? Anyone have this combo?
A number of us have posted on this before but many of our old posts have been lost with the demise of the old 690 Megathread. I believe some here can provide you a link to a site, perhaps called gearing commander or something like that, which explains the increase or decrease in rpm at various speeds given the variables of increases or decreases in countershaft tooth size and rear sprocket size.

You are correct about what is stock, i.e., 15/45. I have 14/45 which is the equivalent of 15/48. As I remember it, 1 tooth down or up on the countershaft sprocket is the equivalent of going 3 teeth up or down on the rear sprocket. Countershaft sprockets are easier to change out than rear sprockets and cheaper as well which may influence your decision.

Since you already have 14/45, or the equivalent of 15/48, you know how the bike deals with slab and off-road speeds/conditions. I believe that if you go to 14/48 you will be screaming the motor at normal highway speeds and will seldom use first gear off-road given the torque of the 690. I have experimented with both on my previous KTM Enduro and believe that 14/45 or 15/48 represents the best compromise for the bike.

Worthy of note on this subject is chain tension. If you tighten your chain more than KTM recommends you can hasten the demise of the countershaft sprocket oil seal which can be a pain in the ass to fix, as some here have reported. Fortunately I have never had this problem.

Hope this helps.
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Old 07-11-2012, 08:42 AM   #4436
Aanarchy
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Originally Posted by RickA View Post
Hi all,

Do you need to go down that far? You are also adding 3 links therefore a new chain.

I run 14-45 and find it a good all-round compromise with std chain length being an additional bonus.

Hope that helps!

Cheers, Rick.
Additional data, so yes it helps. Do I need it? Not sure, but I'm sure it would help getting up some of the gnarlier hills, and make it easier to loft the front wheel over ledges. It's a heavy bike.

Surprised that it would take three extra links. Stock chain is a 114 link, same as stock on my 2008 450EXC-R, which came with same stock gearing. I have 14 x 48 on the 450 with a 116 link chain. I'm moving to a 50T rear on that bike, and I think the 116 will still work, based on Hodakaguy's posts about his 530.

But you're right about the 14 x 45 being a good compromise. A little higher revving on the highway but not too much, and decent in the dirt. New sprocket = $78 and a chain $150+/-. Not insignificant.
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Old 07-11-2012, 08:47 AM   #4437
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Beat Me To It

Quote:
Originally Posted by RickA View Post
Hi all,

Stock gearing of 15-45 gives you a 1:3.00 ratio, 14-45 gives you 1:3.21 and 14:48 gives you 1:3.43 - a lot lower ratio.

Do you need to go down that far? You are also adding 3 links therefore a new chain.

I run 14-45 and find it a good all-round compromise with std chain length being an additional bonus.

Hope that helps!

Cheers, Rick.
Rick, while I was composing my post with a sore right hand, read really slow typing, you got yours out. It seems as though we agree on this. Great minds think alike or something like that.

Cheers,

Tom
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Old 07-11-2012, 08:53 AM   #4438
Aanarchy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nippybit View Post
I believe some here can provide you a link to a site, perhaps called gearing commander or something like that, which explains the increase or decrease in rpm at various speeds given the variables of increases or decreases in countershaft tooth size and rear sprocket size.

You are correct about what is stock, i.e., 15/45. I have 14/45 which is the equivalent of 15/48. As I remember it, 1 tooth down or up on the countershaft sprocket is the equivalent of going 3 teeth up or down on the rear sprocket. Countershaft sprockets are easier to change out than rear sprockets and cheaper as well which may influence your decision.

Since you already have 14/45, or the equivalent of 15/48, you know how the bike deals with slab and off-road speeds/conditions. I believe that if you go to 14/48 you will be screaming the motor at normal highway speeds and will seldom use first gear off-road given the torque of the 690. I have experimented with both on my previous KTM Enduro and believe that 14/45 or 15/48 represents the best compromise for the bike.

Hope this helps.
I've looked at the gearing computation sites, and I don't remember the revs being that high at 70MPH, but it sounds like this is the answer. Thanks.

This is the gear site I used - http://gearingcommander.com/
Which I got from this thread - http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=549734

So I guess survey says - 14x45
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Aanarchy screwed with this post 07-11-2012 at 09:02 AM
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Old 07-11-2012, 09:17 AM   #4439
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nippybit View Post
As I remember it, 1 tooth down or up on the countershaft sprocket is the equivalent of going 3 teeth up or down on the rear sprocket.
Nippy,

You don't exactly have to be a rocket scientist to figure out gearing, it's grade school math.

14/45=0.3111
15/48=0.3125

So 15/48 is about .5% higher than 14/45, which won't really be noticeable on a bike. Going down 1 tooth on the CS and staying with the stock rear will lower it 6.66% from stock, which is noticeable.

Now use your multiplication and division skills to figure out the rest from here, or let the Gearing Commander website do it for you...
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Old 07-11-2012, 11:43 AM   #4440
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An added bonus is when going to 14 tooth you just have to turn the adjuster block and you are almost right in tension. I change often between 14 and 15 which is really easy.
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