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Old 07-11-2012, 09:36 AM   #4441
nippybit
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Gearing

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aanarchy View Post
This may be a simpleton question in a thread with so many advanced topics but I need to ask -

Stock gearing was 15 x 45. All the threads I could find on gearing said 15 x 48 was the trick. I'm running a 14 x 45 and thinking about going to a 48 on the rear with the 14 front. Any comments? Anyone have this combo?
A number of us have posted on this before but many of our old posts have been lost with the demise of the old 690 Megathread. I believe some here can provide you a link to a site, perhaps called gearing commander or something like that, which explains the increase or decrease in rpm at various speeds given the variables of increases or decreases in countershaft tooth size and rear sprocket size.

You are correct about what is stock, i.e., 15/45. I have 14/45 which is the equivalent of 15/48. As I remember it, 1 tooth down or up on the countershaft sprocket is the equivalent of going 3 teeth up or down on the rear sprocket. Countershaft sprockets are easier to change out than rear sprockets and cheaper as well which may influence your decision.

Since you already have 14/45, or the equivalent of 15/48, you know how the bike deals with slab and off-road speeds/conditions. I believe that if you go to 14/48 you will be screaming the motor at normal highway speeds and will seldom use first gear off-road given the torque of the 690. I have experimented with both on my previous KTM Enduro and believe that 14/45 or 15/48 represents the best compromise for the bike.

Worthy of note on this subject is chain tension. If you tighten your chain more than KTM recommends you can hasten the demise of the countershaft sprocket oil seal which can be a pain in the ass to fix, as some here have reported. Fortunately I have never had this problem.

Hope this helps.
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Old 07-11-2012, 09:42 AM   #4442
Aanarchy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RickA View Post
Hi all,

Do you need to go down that far? You are also adding 3 links therefore a new chain.

I run 14-45 and find it a good all-round compromise with std chain length being an additional bonus.

Hope that helps!

Cheers, Rick.
Additional data, so yes it helps. Do I need it? Not sure, but I'm sure it would help getting up some of the gnarlier hills, and make it easier to loft the front wheel over ledges. It's a heavy bike.

Surprised that it would take three extra links. Stock chain is a 114 link, same as stock on my 2008 450EXC-R, which came with same stock gearing. I have 14 x 48 on the 450 with a 116 link chain. I'm moving to a 50T rear on that bike, and I think the 116 will still work, based on Hodakaguy's posts about his 530.

But you're right about the 14 x 45 being a good compromise. A little higher revving on the highway but not too much, and decent in the dirt. New sprocket = $78 and a chain $150+/-. Not insignificant.
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Old 07-11-2012, 09:47 AM   #4443
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RickA View Post
Hi all,

Stock gearing of 15-45 gives you a 1:3.00 ratio, 14-45 gives you 1:3.21 and 14:48 gives you 1:3.43 - a lot lower ratio.

Do you need to go down that far? You are also adding 3 links therefore a new chain.

I run 14-45 and find it a good all-round compromise with std chain length being an additional bonus.

Hope that helps!

Cheers, Rick.
Rick, while I was composing my post with a sore right hand, read really slow typing, you got yours out. It seems as though we agree on this. Great minds think alike or something like that.

Cheers,

Tom
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Old 07-11-2012, 09:53 AM   #4444
Aanarchy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nippybit View Post
I believe some here can provide you a link to a site, perhaps called gearing commander or something like that, which explains the increase or decrease in rpm at various speeds given the variables of increases or decreases in countershaft tooth size and rear sprocket size.

You are correct about what is stock, i.e., 15/45. I have 14/45 which is the equivalent of 15/48. As I remember it, 1 tooth down or up on the countershaft sprocket is the equivalent of going 3 teeth up or down on the rear sprocket. Countershaft sprockets are easier to change out than rear sprockets and cheaper as well which may influence your decision.

Since you already have 14/45, or the equivalent of 15/48, you know how the bike deals with slab and off-road speeds/conditions. I believe that if you go to 14/48 you will be screaming the motor at normal highway speeds and will seldom use first gear off-road given the torque of the 690. I have experimented with both on my previous KTM Enduro and believe that 14/45 or 15/48 represents the best compromise for the bike.

Hope this helps.
I've looked at the gearing computation sites, and I don't remember the revs being that high at 70MPH, but it sounds like this is the answer. Thanks.

This is the gear site I used - http://gearingcommander.com/
Which I got from this thread - http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=549734

So I guess survey says - 14x45
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Aanarchy screwed with this post 07-11-2012 at 10:02 AM
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Old 07-11-2012, 10:17 AM   #4445
LukasM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nippybit View Post
As I remember it, 1 tooth down or up on the countershaft sprocket is the equivalent of going 3 teeth up or down on the rear sprocket.
Nippy,

You don't exactly have to be a rocket scientist to figure out gearing, it's grade school math.

14/45=0.3111
15/48=0.3125

So 15/48 is about .5% higher than 14/45, which won't really be noticeable on a bike. Going down 1 tooth on the CS and staying with the stock rear will lower it 6.66% from stock, which is noticeable.

Now use your multiplication and division skills to figure out the rest from here, or let the Gearing Commander website do it for you...
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Old 07-11-2012, 12:43 PM   #4446
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An added bonus is when going to 14 tooth you just have to turn the adjuster block and you are almost right in tension. I change often between 14 and 15 which is really easy.
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Old 07-11-2012, 01:05 PM   #4447
Bill the Bong
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Got my Vortex installed yesterday. First time I ever had a bike that wheelied in a dry river bed. I'm truly impressed.
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Old 07-11-2012, 03:24 PM   #4448
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Originally Posted by aanarchy View Post
my rear signals worked fine wiithout the relay. Then i added the front signals nothing would flash until i plugged in the relay. Then all was fine.
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Old 07-11-2012, 03:53 PM   #4449
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill the Bong View Post
Got my Vortex installed yesterday. First time I ever had a bike that wheelied in a dry river bed. I'm truly impressed.
Best move I made swapping the stock ECU with a Vortex. Really woke the bike up.
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Old 07-11-2012, 05:32 PM   #4450
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Originally Posted by Head2Wind View Post
I have a set of these on my 690 and strap my GL and other things to them frequently. ~$80

Now that is the ticket! Thanks H2M!
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Old 07-11-2012, 05:35 PM   #4451
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seat o' the pants gearing calculator

I alternate my gearing between 14/15/16 cs and 45/48 rear sprockets. Most of the time the bike is used offroad or for my daily 3 mile ride to work so 14/48 is rarely a problem on the highway. I've ridden several 200 mile+ days with 14/48 and I do find myself shifting for 7th on the highway, but it will still cruise at 70 with no concerns. I think that my next rear will be a 50tooth, it isn't because a lack of torque so much as a lack of rpm in the tight stuff... I want to be able to ride slower without touching the clutch.

I've only ridden the other end of the spectrum (16/45) for ~500 miles and seriously stayed in 5th for at least 10 miles everytime I got on the highway because I thought that I was already in 6th. For speeds under 80 on the highway, 16/45 is too tall for my liking. I'd probably use this gearing combo more if I wasn't concerned with my knobbies coming apart at a sustained 90+mph.

That being said, like so many others, 15/48 is my go-to gearing when I leave from the house and don't know where I'll end up. I can comfortably cruise the freeway and with minor clutch work I can still wrestle the pig through black diamond singletrack.

When school starts back up next month and my commute goes back to 70miles, I'll switch back to stock 15/45.

All of these combos are run with a chain that is 2 links longer than stock and I just might be able to run 14/50 with the same chain.

All the sprocket swaps sometimes make me wish I had just bought a TE630 like my buddy who went -1 on the CS and is good to go for anything.... that is untill I ride his bike and immediately miss the power/handling/suspension/ and yes even the close ratio tranny of the 690. I'll live with it

here's the link to http://www.gearingcommander.com/ in case nobody posted it yet, the 690 is already loaded there.
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Old 07-11-2012, 07:25 PM   #4452
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I ride with a 15/46 (the 46 cuz that was the only Ironman sprocket my guy had at the time)...If I find myself in the triple black diamond super-macho gnarly tight switchbacks....I just pull out my 450 and rip it up

Too tight a chain also plays havoc w/ rear wheel bearings....the linkage on the 690 is less worrisome for this concern than the rest of the R bikes.
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Old 07-11-2012, 09:34 PM   #4453
RoninMoto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LukasM View Post
Nippy,

You don't exactly have to be a rocket scientist to figure out gearing,

True story.
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Old 07-12-2012, 01:16 AM   #4454
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill the Bong View Post
Got my Vortex installed yesterday. First time I ever had a bike that wheelied in a dry river bed. I'm truly impressed.
Can you post a pic of how the install looks? What goes bu-bye and what gets added....

K
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Old 07-12-2012, 02:39 AM   #4455
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barman View Post
Best move I made swapping the stock ECU with a Vortex. Really woke the bike up.
do you really need more power from the 690?
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