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Old 07-30-2012, 07:47 AM   #4786
blakrj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobzilla View Post
Yes I have the CA pump

Very intermitent problem but it is often enough that it is hard to ride the bike. Rode 200 miles home yesterday with it dieing about 12 times. Most times I could hit the kill switch and cycle it off and on and the bike would start running again. A few times it would take a few minutes and cycles to start again.I was never cycling the key switch only the kill switch.
Love/Hate/Love/Hate
Bob, it was Fishfund that had the rectifier issue. I had issues with a poorly earthed coil due to relocation on the RR bracket that caused similar problems. Bike would run fine when cold, but cough, splutter and die when I got above 100kmh or engine was laboured. Was intermittent and symptoms similar to what you have. Cleaned up the contacts and ran a dedicated earth to the coil cured the problem. If it is the rectifier, run a voltmeter across the battery when running and check if voltage is stable and not spiking. Even better if you can hook it up to the bike while going for a ride and check voltage when symptoms appear.
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Old 07-30-2012, 08:16 AM   #4787
tonykof
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mickd View Post
HI ALL
I've got a 2012 690 with just over 1000k's on her,been brill so far,put a fmf on all good,but when she had her 1st service they did the akro mapping,now she stalls every now and again,i had a ride in the bush and it happened
around 6 to 7 times all in a different way,so hard to place what and how it does it,any help here b4 i go into the dealers again today??

thanks mick
Mine does the same thing...I have searched & searched on here & have found not clear cut fix...well except changing to a vortex system...
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Old 07-30-2012, 11:28 AM   #4788
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goosecreek View Post
Well living on the east coast I love my bike 08 690e it has only died once ,fuel pump and that was in the driveway. I am never more than 30 miles from something and most always have cell coverage so I am comfortable in my travels.
I almost hit a crocodile 3 days ago on a ride - he was crossing the trail and I had plenty of time to stop but for some reason I just had this overwhelming urge to run it over. It was little - about 8' long with the tail (his back was probably 12" high or so) and I'm pretty sure I would've got away with it but I held up!
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Old 07-30-2012, 11:34 AM   #4789
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blakrj View Post
I'm thinking a stainless mesh cage over them might do the job. Been looking for a way to get some HIDs mounted up front of mine and think this may at least provide the platform. Alternatively, I need to go see Colebatch's guru to get something fabricated to mount them.
I think I remember reading something about that - was it a guy in Holland that fabbed that stuff up for him on his Xchallenge? I've got the same projectors but don't really have any skills when it comes to making stuff up like that.

How about it beany - any chance we could get some shots of the projectors mounted without the fairing? Would y'all be interested in selling just that?
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Old 07-30-2012, 01:07 PM   #4790
Uller
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobzilla View Post
Somebody had a rectifier failure on here that they said at first seemed like a pump failure. Could you please tell me the symtoms
Bike dies when running at speed but switching the kill switch off and on will start the bike again WTF is it now?
I, along with Fishfund that I know of, have had the Rectiifier/Regulator failure on the 690. It didn't seem like a pump failure though.

The first sign of problems were when I went to start my bike and it makes a funny sound in the starter, no start. Starts on second try. Runs for 30 seconds with the tack resetting constantly. Then dies. I start it again and it runs for even less time and then dies.

To get the bike to the road, I connected my battery to a quad's battery and it would give me enough electrical charge to get the bike started and run for a few minutes.

When I got the bike home, I found the battery to have a charge but couldn't hold a load. The battery was fried. (ultimately caused by voltage spikes from faulty Rectifier/Regulator).

I tested out the stator, it was fine. Upon recommendations by Beaney, I tested the Rectifier/Regulator and it too tested fine.

At this time, I was having a couple of issues. The first one, you are all too familar with....my fuel hose had popped off the pump outlet partially. It would pressurize the line letting the bike start but wouldn't be able to hold enough pressure for the bike to keep running. Once I fixed that issue and the bike would run without dying, I was now able to determine with a voltmeter that I was indeed getting voltage spikes with the bike running. This was due to the faulty R/R and in turn had fried my new battery.

I used a MOSFET style R/R just like you can get from an inmate here: http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...ghlight=mosfet and wired it directly to my battery.

After researching the R/R units, I found that there are many bike manufacturers that are having problems with these and the MOSFET unit is the logical upgrade as it performs better, is more reliable, and provides much more steady current flow. I would almost consider this a mandatory upgrade. (Yes, I know that there isn't any andozided bling associated with it. )

Quote:
Originally Posted by bobzilla View Post
Very intermitent problem but it is often enough that it is hard to ride the bike. Rode 200 miles home yesterday with it dieing about 12 times. Most times I could hit the kill switch and cycle it off and on and the bike would start running again. A few times it would take a few minutes and cycles to start again.I was never cycling the key switch only the kill switch.
Love/Hate/Love/Hate
It really is hard to diagnose through the computer but, if it is your R/R it could be causing spikes in your electrical system making the sensors think crazy things and throws the system out of wack causing your bike to die. When you cycle the kill switch it causes the computer to shut down and reset without the weird info the sensor got earlier and allows your bike to run fine again until the next spike and.........the procedure repeats itself.

Just a theory as I'm not an electrical engineer...

An aftermarket R/R is around $125.00. Considering everything else, IMO that is a rather cheap fix. I don't currently have any issues with my 950 R/R but, as soon as funds allow, I will be upgrading my R/R on that bike too.

Uller screwed with this post 07-30-2012 at 04:26 PM
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Old 07-30-2012, 02:01 PM   #4791
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The original r/r's are mosfet build units as well. all modern bikes have them these day's.

I wouldnt bother replacing a good one, there are thousends of high mile bikes on the original. just dont cook them with a bad battery / no cooling combo. and they stay ok in my experience.
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Old 07-30-2012, 02:48 PM   #4792
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenD View Post
The original r/r's are mosfet build units as well. all modern bikes have them these day's.
I doubt it very much, but what makes you think so?

If somebody can post the part number and it's a Shindengen it will be easy to say.
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Old 07-30-2012, 03:02 PM   #4793
Uller
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenD View Post
The original r/r's are mosfet build units as well. all modern bikes have them these day's.
Do you have anything to support this statement? I have read of all manuf. having issues with R/R units. Especially the Triumph's, BMW's and Ducati's with the 950 SE's falling right behind them.......

I have both personal experience and documented support for my statements.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by AdvGa View Post
Here is a good explanation of the 2 basic types of Regulators:

http://www.ducati.ms/forums/80-hall-...-problems.html

Basically it's like this: Most regulator rectifiers, including Ducati's, are SCR type units.

SCR stands for Silicon Controlled Rectifiers, i.e. the type
(composition) of the rectifier components incorporated into the unit's circuit board. While SCR's do the job, some time ago the electronics genies
discovered/developed

...what is called "mosfet" transistors (Metal-Oxide-Semiconductor Field-Effect Transistor). I became aware of them through their use in audio and power amp circuits. These little marvels are increasingly being used in all sorts of circuitry as they are more efficient, have less resistance, when they shut down they do so completely not holding residual charge etc. Simply put they're more robust so when I discovered that a Japanese manufacturer had developed a mosfet reg/rec unit I investigated further. And as you will see if you check some of the links below people have been upgrading several different brands of bikes with mosfet units and getting good results.

The two biggest benefits provided by mosfet RR's is that they provide improved output and do not get as hot.
Quote:
Originally Posted by K2m View Post
I run a volt meter

Standard KTM runs 14.4-5V at all RPM. Only having the lights on will alter that at idle. When they fail they run between 11 at idle and 16 at RPM, but the battery will slowly get flatter and will fail to start the bike....... then you are in the shit. I managed to clutch mine. Third gear, down hill, 2 big Tongans pushing

I went through 2 KTM units and I'm on my third...... I decided to toss it.

I now have a SHiNDENGEN. Same as Ken's link. I have to wait till I finish renovating it before I can report its worth. Hope life in Greece is treating you well mate.
http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-trip...r-upgrade.html

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shov3BR View Post
Our booth was next to Rick's Motorsports Electrics at the Powersports Dealer Expo last weekend. That gave us 4 days to pick his brain about how to improve the charging system on our KTM 990. It actually took 5 seconds for Rick to respond, "put a MOSFET VRR on it."
When we got home I sent him pics of the existing regulator and the relevant part of the KTM wiring diagram.
Rick supplies a VRR that has the wires potted directly into the VRR like the OEM unit. This eliminates one connection. This is especially important as the VRR is located low on the frame where it gets submerged in mud and water. He also recommends connecting directly to the battery with a fused connection. After reviewing the KTM wiring diagram it appeared that the existing 30A fuse was downstream of the high power connection point so he eliminated the fuse holder and terminated the output wire with a 6mm ring terminal.
It turns out that the KTM wiring diagram doesn't accurately reflect the 2011 990 wiring and the fuse was not located where it provided the proper protection so we added one ourselves.

One minor screw up on our part: Rick installs cable jacket on all wires but I forgot to replace it after adding the fuse holder. No biggie; I just put some split loom on the wire during installation. Here is the VRR Rick built up for us (left) along side the OEM part (right). Again note that when we installed the fuse holder we inadvertently left off the cable jacket that Rick had provided:



The installation was a snap as the VRR bolts up directly to the KTM bracket. Some quick cable routing and some cable ties and it was done. Note the corrugated split loom that we had to install to replace the cable jacket that we forgot to install when we added the fuse holder.



We put the fuse near the end of the output wire so it wound up near the original 30A fuse (the green just above the fuse holder). We filled the OEM output connector with E6000 (GOOP) to keep out moisture and crud and strapped it to its original clip with a cable tie (just to the right of the green 30A fuse). .



The bike is all in pieces getting it ready for a big ride but we don't expect any surprises when we fire it up.

You can find Rick's Motorsports Electrics here.
http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/

Rick just reported back that he will have units in stock by the first week of March. These VRRs will have the fuse holder and fuse installed. Part number is 10-13H and retail pricing is $150.

Note: Neither I nor 3BR Powersports have any connection to Rick's Motorsports Electrics. They are just good folks who we met for the first time at the Powersports Dealer Expo and have provided some cool parts for our KTM.

-Shov (3BR Powersports, LLC)
Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenD View Post
I wouldnt bother replacing a good one, there are thousends of high mile bikes on the original. just dont cook them with a bad battery / no cooling combo. and they stay ok in my experience.
The stock R/R actually provides LESS voltage to the battery for charging as the RPM's get higher. It is converting more and more of that energy to heat causing it to fail faster than necessary. The upgraded unit I am recommending is consistent throughout the RPM range which is bettter for the FI system, your battery and everything else that is connected to the electrical system AND consequently is more reliable which, is a trait I desire while I am beyond Cell Phone range......

Quote:
Originally Posted by JRWooden View Post
Folks tell me all time that I'm special... but usually they have a weird look on their faces....

MOVING ALONG:
I'm not sure what the "SC" suffix means compared to the more common "G" suffix.
A google search only shows up a few russian web pages that I haven't tried to translate........

I found a long thread here (54 pages):
http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/s...harging-issues

And shorter one here:
http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/s...issues/page36&

I have not read all the crap yet, but netting it out, I think that:
These guys seem to have the same R/R as most of us (SH541G-12),
and were complaining of the same issue (low charging voltage of 13.x volts).

The fix that seemed to work was to solder the 3 connections in the plug to the R/R from the stator
to reduce resistance, and then adding extra wires on the battery side of the R/R to beef up the connections from the R/R to battery again to allow less voltage drop / loss.

After doing so, they claim charging voltages of 14.x volts.

Have we already talked about this.... I'm having one of those "deja vu all over again" moments........

Uller screwed with this post 07-30-2012 at 03:47 PM
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Old 07-30-2012, 04:38 PM   #4794
Roadracer_Al
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobzilla View Post
Somebody had a rectifier failure on here that they said at first seemed like a pump failure. Could you please tell me the symtoms
Bike dies when running at speed but switching the kill switch off and on will start the bike again WTF is it now?
Bob, I realize this is a pretty low-rent suggestion and you've probably already thought about it, so don't be pissed.

Anyway, have you disassembled the kill switch and cleaned it real good with contact cleaner? I've had switches go bad from dirt and they feel like a jetting problem -- i.e. it associates with a certain RPM or it stumbles.
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Old 07-30-2012, 06:22 PM   #4795
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadracer_Al View Post
Bob, I realize this is a pretty low-rent suggestion and you've probably already thought about it, so don't be pissed.

Anyway, have you disassembled the kill switch and cleaned it real good with contact cleaner? I've had switches go bad from dirt and they feel like a jetting problem -- i.e. it associates with a certain RPM or it stumbles.
Try the starter relay, distribution block under the seat and then also eliminate the ignition switch. The switches are buggy as a shit house rat and will vibrate off during high speed riding. Alot of Yamaha's use the same dist block/relay, I bought one for $24 and the bike has been running great ever since.
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Old 07-30-2012, 09:50 PM   #4796
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Originally Posted by beaney View Post




Thats the proto type, the screen will be redesigned to have a perspex cover over the lights. Until they get the first evo 2 tanks the fairing design is not set in stone and will change.

That's very good to hear as it was a major concern when I first saw this. Now if this kit includes good install instructions and we may have a winner!
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Old 07-31-2012, 08:03 AM   #4797
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crankshaft View Post
Try the starter relay, distribution block under the seat and then also eliminate the ignition switch. The switches are buggy as a shit house rat and will vibrate off during high speed riding. Alot of Yamaha's use the same dist block/relay, I bought one for $24 and the bike has been running great ever since.
Thanks Aaron
any hints on how to get rid of the key switch? how about model of yamaha for the relay. I am leaning towrd the relay my self but i do hate the key switch too. my symnptoms sound similar to the ones you had
thanks

and i did check the kill swtich
thanks for all the suggestions.
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Old 07-31-2012, 08:27 AM   #4798
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobzilla View Post
Thanks Aaron
any hints on how to get rid of the key switch? how about model of yamaha for the relay. I am leaning towrd the relay my self but i do hate the key switch too. my symnptoms sound similar to the ones you had
thanks

and i did check the kill swtich
thanks for all the suggestions.
The key switch is just 2 wires...on off I believe. so you could just plug in a manual switch or wire in any other key switch of your liking.
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Old 07-31-2012, 09:55 AM   #4799
Uller
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobzilla View Post
Thanks Aaron
any hints on how to get rid of the key switch? how about model of yamaha for the relay. I am leaning towrd the relay my self but i do hate the key switch too. my symnptoms sound similar to the ones you had
thanks

and i did check the kill swtich
thanks for all the suggestions.
I used a PVC coated SPST Toggle Switch like this: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...ersal+-+toggle



I used a piece of 1"x1" aluminum angle cut to fit in the area of the original switch and mounted to the same holes in the frame that the switch is located. Do remember that the stock switch also has the steering head lock so, when you remove the stock switch you need to seal this hole up to stop dirt/grim from getting into the area between the bearings. I just used some RTV on the back of my angle bracket and let it cure before installation. I can't upload pics at work. Will post a pic later tonight.

Notice that I also have a Rally Raid Steering Dampner Post mounted behind the angle the switch is mounted to. If you don't have this dampner post here you would need a larger piece of angle to get the switch out far enough to clear everything.




Uller screwed with this post 07-31-2012 at 06:30 PM
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Old 07-31-2012, 10:31 AM   #4800
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth S View Post
The key switch is just 2 wires...on off I believe. so you could just plug in a manual switch or wire in any other key switch of your liking.
Exactely.

I have dismantled it last weekend. Wires attached to it were very bad and partialy crimped. The key switch is a dry contact that you could easily swap with a watertight toggle switch.





Quote:
Originally Posted by bobzilla View Post
Thanks Aaron. Any hints on how to get rid of the key switch ? how about model of yamaha for the relay. I am leaning towrd the relay my self but i do hate the key switch too. my symnptoms sound similar to the ones you had thanks
Bob, You could also easily put a "hidden" watertight toggle switch in parallel with the key switch.

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