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Old 07-30-2012, 03:48 PM   #4816
LukasM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenD View Post
The original r/r's are mosfet build units as well. all modern bikes have them these day's.
I doubt it very much, but what makes you think so?

If somebody can post the part number and it's a Shindengen it will be easy to say.
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Old 07-30-2012, 04:02 PM   #4817
Uller
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenD View Post
The original r/r's are mosfet build units as well. all modern bikes have them these day's.
Do you have anything to support this statement? I have read of all manuf. having issues with R/R units. Especially the Triumph's, BMW's and Ducati's with the 950 SE's falling right behind them.......

I have both personal experience and documented support for my statements.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by AdvGa View Post
Here is a good explanation of the 2 basic types of Regulators:

http://www.ducati.ms/forums/80-hall-...-problems.html

Basically it's like this: Most regulator rectifiers, including Ducati's, are SCR type units.

SCR stands for Silicon Controlled Rectifiers, i.e. the type
(composition) of the rectifier components incorporated into the unit's circuit board. While SCR's do the job, some time ago the electronics genies
discovered/developed

...what is called "mosfet" transistors (Metal-Oxide-Semiconductor Field-Effect Transistor). I became aware of them through their use in audio and power amp circuits. These little marvels are increasingly being used in all sorts of circuitry as they are more efficient, have less resistance, when they shut down they do so completely not holding residual charge etc. Simply put they're more robust so when I discovered that a Japanese manufacturer had developed a mosfet reg/rec unit I investigated further. And as you will see if you check some of the links below people have been upgrading several different brands of bikes with mosfet units and getting good results.

The two biggest benefits provided by mosfet RR's is that they provide improved output and do not get as hot.
Quote:
Originally Posted by K2m View Post
I run a volt meter

Standard KTM runs 14.4-5V at all RPM. Only having the lights on will alter that at idle. When they fail they run between 11 at idle and 16 at RPM, but the battery will slowly get flatter and will fail to start the bike....... then you are in the shit. I managed to clutch mine. Third gear, down hill, 2 big Tongans pushing

I went through 2 KTM units and I'm on my third...... I decided to toss it.

I now have a SHiNDENGEN. Same as Ken's link. I have to wait till I finish renovating it before I can report its worth. Hope life in Greece is treating you well mate.
http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-trip...r-upgrade.html

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shov3BR View Post
Our booth was next to Rick's Motorsports Electrics at the Powersports Dealer Expo last weekend. That gave us 4 days to pick his brain about how to improve the charging system on our KTM 990. It actually took 5 seconds for Rick to respond, "put a MOSFET VRR on it."
When we got home I sent him pics of the existing regulator and the relevant part of the KTM wiring diagram.
Rick supplies a VRR that has the wires potted directly into the VRR like the OEM unit. This eliminates one connection. This is especially important as the VRR is located low on the frame where it gets submerged in mud and water. He also recommends connecting directly to the battery with a fused connection. After reviewing the KTM wiring diagram it appeared that the existing 30A fuse was downstream of the high power connection point so he eliminated the fuse holder and terminated the output wire with a 6mm ring terminal.
It turns out that the KTM wiring diagram doesn't accurately reflect the 2011 990 wiring and the fuse was not located where it provided the proper protection so we added one ourselves.

One minor screw up on our part: Rick installs cable jacket on all wires but I forgot to replace it after adding the fuse holder. No biggie; I just put some split loom on the wire during installation. Here is the VRR Rick built up for us (left) along side the OEM part (right). Again note that when we installed the fuse holder we inadvertently left off the cable jacket that Rick had provided:



The installation was a snap as the VRR bolts up directly to the KTM bracket. Some quick cable routing and some cable ties and it was done. Note the corrugated split loom that we had to install to replace the cable jacket that we forgot to install when we added the fuse holder.



We put the fuse near the end of the output wire so it wound up near the original 30A fuse (the green just above the fuse holder). We filled the OEM output connector with E6000 (GOOP) to keep out moisture and crud and strapped it to its original clip with a cable tie (just to the right of the green 30A fuse). .



The bike is all in pieces getting it ready for a big ride but we don't expect any surprises when we fire it up.

You can find Rick's Motorsports Electrics here.
http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/

Rick just reported back that he will have units in stock by the first week of March. These VRRs will have the fuse holder and fuse installed. Part number is 10-13H and retail pricing is $150.

Note: Neither I nor 3BR Powersports have any connection to Rick's Motorsports Electrics. They are just good folks who we met for the first time at the Powersports Dealer Expo and have provided some cool parts for our KTM.

-Shov (3BR Powersports, LLC)
Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenD View Post
I wouldnt bother replacing a good one, there are thousends of high mile bikes on the original. just dont cook them with a bad battery / no cooling combo. and they stay ok in my experience.
The stock R/R actually provides LESS voltage to the battery for charging as the RPM's get higher. It is converting more and more of that energy to heat causing it to fail faster than necessary. The upgraded unit I am recommending is consistent throughout the RPM range which is bettter for the FI system, your battery and everything else that is connected to the electrical system AND consequently is more reliable which, is a trait I desire while I am beyond Cell Phone range......

Quote:
Originally Posted by JRWooden View Post
Folks tell me all time that I'm special... but usually they have a weird look on their faces....

MOVING ALONG:
I'm not sure what the "SC" suffix means compared to the more common "G" suffix.
A google search only shows up a few russian web pages that I haven't tried to translate........

I found a long thread here (54 pages):
http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/s...harging-issues

And shorter one here:
http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/s...issues/page36&

I have not read all the crap yet, but netting it out, I think that:
These guys seem to have the same R/R as most of us (SH541G-12),
and were complaining of the same issue (low charging voltage of 13.x volts).

The fix that seemed to work was to solder the 3 connections in the plug to the R/R from the stator
to reduce resistance, and then adding extra wires on the battery side of the R/R to beef up the connections from the R/R to battery again to allow less voltage drop / loss.

After doing so, they claim charging voltages of 14.x volts.

Have we already talked about this.... I'm having one of those "deja vu all over again" moments........

Uller screwed with this post 07-30-2012 at 04:47 PM
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Old 07-30-2012, 05:38 PM   #4818
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobzilla View Post
Somebody had a rectifier failure on here that they said at first seemed like a pump failure. Could you please tell me the symtoms
Bike dies when running at speed but switching the kill switch off and on will start the bike again WTF is it now?
Bob, I realize this is a pretty low-rent suggestion and you've probably already thought about it, so don't be pissed.

Anyway, have you disassembled the kill switch and cleaned it real good with contact cleaner? I've had switches go bad from dirt and they feel like a jetting problem -- i.e. it associates with a certain RPM or it stumbles.
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Old 07-30-2012, 07:22 PM   #4819
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadracer_Al View Post
Bob, I realize this is a pretty low-rent suggestion and you've probably already thought about it, so don't be pissed.

Anyway, have you disassembled the kill switch and cleaned it real good with contact cleaner? I've had switches go bad from dirt and they feel like a jetting problem -- i.e. it associates with a certain RPM or it stumbles.
Try the starter relay, distribution block under the seat and then also eliminate the ignition switch. The switches are buggy as a shit house rat and will vibrate off during high speed riding. Alot of Yamaha's use the same dist block/relay, I bought one for $24 and the bike has been running great ever since.
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Old 07-30-2012, 10:50 PM   #4820
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beaney View Post




Thats the proto type, the screen will be redesigned to have a perspex cover over the lights. Until they get the first evo 2 tanks the fairing design is not set in stone and will change.

That's very good to hear as it was a major concern when I first saw this. Now if this kit includes good install instructions and we may have a winner!
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Old 07-31-2012, 09:03 AM   #4821
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crankshaft View Post
Try the starter relay, distribution block under the seat and then also eliminate the ignition switch. The switches are buggy as a shit house rat and will vibrate off during high speed riding. Alot of Yamaha's use the same dist block/relay, I bought one for $24 and the bike has been running great ever since.
Thanks Aaron
any hints on how to get rid of the key switch? how about model of yamaha for the relay. I am leaning towrd the relay my self but i do hate the key switch too. my symnptoms sound similar to the ones you had
thanks

and i did check the kill swtich
thanks for all the suggestions.
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Old 07-31-2012, 09:27 AM   #4822
Seth S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobzilla View Post
Thanks Aaron
any hints on how to get rid of the key switch? how about model of yamaha for the relay. I am leaning towrd the relay my self but i do hate the key switch too. my symnptoms sound similar to the ones you had
thanks

and i did check the kill swtich
thanks for all the suggestions.
The key switch is just 2 wires...on off I believe. so you could just plug in a manual switch or wire in any other key switch of your liking.
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Old 07-31-2012, 10:55 AM   #4823
Uller
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobzilla View Post
Thanks Aaron
any hints on how to get rid of the key switch? how about model of yamaha for the relay. I am leaning towrd the relay my self but i do hate the key switch too. my symnptoms sound similar to the ones you had
thanks

and i did check the kill swtich
thanks for all the suggestions.
I used a PVC coated SPST Toggle Switch like this: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...ersal+-+toggle



I used a piece of 1"x1" aluminum angle cut to fit in the area of the original switch and mounted to the same holes in the frame that the switch is located. Do remember that the stock switch also has the steering head lock so, when you remove the stock switch you need to seal this hole up to stop dirt/grim from getting into the area between the bearings. I just used some RTV on the back of my angle bracket and let it cure before installation. I can't upload pics at work. Will post a pic later tonight.

Notice that I also have a Rally Raid Steering Dampner Post mounted behind the angle the switch is mounted to. If you don't have this dampner post here you would need a larger piece of angle to get the switch out far enough to clear everything.




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Old 07-31-2012, 11:31 AM   #4824
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth S View Post
The key switch is just 2 wires...on off I believe. so you could just plug in a manual switch or wire in any other key switch of your liking.
Exactely.

I have dismantled it last weekend. Wires attached to it were very bad and partialy crimped. The key switch is a dry contact that you could easily swap with a watertight toggle switch.





Quote:
Originally Posted by bobzilla View Post
Thanks Aaron. Any hints on how to get rid of the key switch ? how about model of yamaha for the relay. I am leaning towrd the relay my self but i do hate the key switch too. my symnptoms sound similar to the ones you had thanks
Bob, You could also easily put a "hidden" watertight toggle switch in parallel with the key switch.

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Old 07-31-2012, 12:56 PM   #4825
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thanks guys
for a bike this complex i thought it would need a switch with 15million different poles
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Old 07-31-2012, 03:05 PM   #4826
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobzilla View Post
thanks guys
for a bike this complex i thought it would need a switch with 15million different poles
Bob,
For you we can arrange such a deal...
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Old 07-31-2012, 07:46 PM   #4827
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobzilla View Post
thanks guys
for a bike this complex i thought it would need a switch with 15million different poles
Hey Bob Yamaha pn 4BH-81940-02 Most Yamaha bikes have them, so ask the dealer if you can paw through the relay box.
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Old 07-31-2012, 09:56 PM   #4828
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thanks all
this place rocks
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Old 08-01-2012, 02:17 AM   #4829
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Alternator voltage / charging monitor

Not for everybody but on all bikes and on my beach fourby i have installed a small cheap battery voltage display. It sort of gives you an early warning of impending doom...that is an alternator that is not charging or even over charging. Simple to construct and about $9 on internet from FUTURLEC ( ship from Thailand ) ... supposed to be constructed flat but on some i put the LED's side on and encase in epoxy making it waterproof slim and durable...sorry about the focus... one pic of KTM couple of BMW 1150GS adv..also beach fourby ......on the KTM if the charging stops and you pull the blue fuse you are likely to get an hour of riding...[IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG]
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Old 08-01-2012, 05:49 AM   #4830
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I just got done installing a Shindengen Mosfet R/R and a Volt gauge wired directly to the battery.




When the bike is running, I am charging at just under 14v regardless of RPM.
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