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Old 08-07-2012, 06:50 AM   #4936
Seth S
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Joined: Jul 2004
Location: sanity?
Oddometer: 4,144
Been there done that. Trail tech was kind enough to sell me a new light frame for a reasonable price
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Old 08-07-2012, 08:44 AM   #4937
Barman
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Location: Saratoga Springs, NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xmoto View Post
Headbutted a tree yesterday.. tree won . Parts is parts.


You could put the stock mask back on while you're waiting for parts.
Should be in with the spare bits that went with the bike.
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Old 08-07-2012, 09:46 AM   #4938
Xmoto
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Ordered new light frame from trail tech, the p/n in 3832-00-frame if anyone needs it.
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Xmoto screwed with this post 08-07-2012 at 10:35 AM
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Old 08-07-2012, 10:49 AM   #4939
Roadracer_Al
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I agree with your assessment that vibration on an unsupported wire is the culprit. It is poor engineering to allow a wire to exit, unsupported, via a sharp-cornered hole. That will cause the wire to fatigue and break 100% of the time over the long run.

The solution is to add a stress relief rubber. It doesn't have to be anything fancy like a factory-made part. It can be a long, skinny cone of RTV or Shoe Goo (i.e. some type of goop that sets rubbery, not hard... i.e. no JB Weld!) that is built up from the connector outward to the wire. Make it the full diameter of the connector -at- the connector, and about 1" long, tapering down to the wire size. Just something that makes it impossible to kink the wire as it flexes.

a

Quote:
Originally Posted by advrider58 View Post
While I've added shrink wrap and cable ties to be sure the stress on the wire leading into the connector is minimum, I continue to break the wire regularly. It appears to be from vibration fatigue. I really could use a new connector to repair this again. Anyone know of a good source (other than a visit to the 100 mile away KTM dealer)?
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Old 08-07-2012, 11:55 AM   #4940
blakrj
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Location: Cloggland via Borneo, TX, UK, Oz and S.Africa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seth S View Post
No, check the main relay ...right next to the battery. The rectifier wont cause the bike not to start
Also check all earths are good. If coil earth is bad, starter will turn over and you'll have no hint of ignition. Checking relay a good place to start if you keep hearing a clicking sound
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Old 08-07-2012, 12:25 PM   #4941
DirtJack
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Location: San Antonio, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blakrj View Post
Also check all earths are good. If coil earth is bad, starter will turn over and you'll have no hint of ignition. Checking relay a good place to start if you keep hearing a clicking sound
The fuel pump prime issue I have is likely not a grounding issue as the bike has always cranked strongly. It will not start without the fuel pump prime. No point even trying to start it without the prime; just runs down the battery. As soon as you can hear the fuel pump prime sequence, however, the bike always starts and runs normally.
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Old 08-07-2012, 12:30 PM   #4942
jonnykilo
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Joined: Oct 2006
Location: East Coast Canada
Oddometer: 205
Quote:
Originally Posted by GezwindeSpoed View Post
What i think that happend is that a thooth broke and went in between the transmission shafts and bent them. So this is not the cause but the result. I did not know and just replaced all damaged transmission gears. After 200km, the transmission was f#cked again. Then I deceided to bring the engine to the dealer and let him fix the problem. When he rebuilded the thing he found out that the gearbox was not running smoothly and brought the shafts to a machine work shop were the measured the staightness.

KTM paid 30% of the cost of the parts of the first rebuild. The second rebuild I had to pay because KTM said they did not have the garantee I rebuild it well. My dealer gave me a lot of discount so fair enough.

My bike I from Dec 2008 (690 R model 2009) and what I believe is that the dakar bike suffered from another problem.

If you have any questions about the rebuild feel free to ask.
Thanks Gez. I have the engine out, and am going to see what a dealer has to say - in the meantime, gotta move tomorrow so this ass-pain with the Katoom will have to wait.

jak
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Old 08-07-2012, 04:29 PM   #4943
advrider58
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Location: El Paso de Robles, CA
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Talking Air Box Temperature Sensor Connector

Good advice. Thanks all! As of last night, it's fixed.

Rather than re-soldering to the "stub" wire exiting the connector, I took the connector completely apart this time right down to pulling the pins from the plug. I removed the stock wires and replaced them with eight inch leads of 14 gauge that I soldered to the pins. No relying on crimp connections. After reassembling the connector, I soldered the leads into the wire harness. Both leads are packaged together into shrink wrap from the connector to the wire harness, and I added a second outer layer of shrink wrap enclosing the wires and the entire end of the connector at the exit point.

Hopefully I've got it all covered now. Larger gauge wires, strain relief and enough mass to resist any vibration fatigue. All the wires are also zip tied to the frame rails with just enough slack for a natural unstressed bend.

I still would like to replace the connector (it's well worn now from all the wire replacements and rework), so if anyone finds a replacement source, please share.

Thanks again--let's ride!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadracer_Al View Post
I agree with your assessment that vibration on an unsupported wire is the culprit. It is poor engineering to allow a wire to exit, unsupported, via a sharp-cornered hole. That will cause the wire to fatigue and break 100% of the time over the long run.

The solution is to add a stress relief rubber. It doesn't have to be anything fancy like a factory-made part. It can be a long, skinny cone of RTV or Shoe Goo (i.e. some type of goop that sets rubbery, not hard... i.e. no JB Weld!) that is built up from the connector outward to the wire. Make it the full diameter of the connector -at- the connector, and about 1" long, tapering down to the wire size. Just something that makes it impossible to kink the wire as it flexes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtJack View Post
I disassembled the plug and used heavier and longer wire, re-crimping and soldering and then sealed the plug and wires with shrink wrap. No problem since.
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Old 08-07-2012, 06:36 PM   #4944
Michelangelo
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Location: Rocky Mountain West
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Can someone recommend a rear shock collar spanner wrench for the 2008 690E? I bought an Enduro Engineering one (for sale in Flea Market for $25) that turned out to be only for the single collar shocks. I'm told I need a hinged one to work on the 690's shock. Any recommendations?
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Old 08-07-2012, 06:46 PM   #4945
Barman
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Location: Saratoga Springs, NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michelangelo View Post
Can someone recommend a rear shock collar spanner wrench for the 2008 690E? I bought an Enduro Engineering one (for sale in Flea Market for $25) that turned out to be only for the single collar shocks. I'm told I need a hinged one to work on the 690's shock. Any recommendations?
Doesn't matter if it's hinged or not. I have both types and still need to use them in combo with a brass drift. Not enough clearance.
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Old 08-07-2012, 07:18 PM   #4946
Pundy
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Location: North of North New Portland
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Oil changes

I'm about to embark on a 2,300 mile dirt road and atv trail ride. I was wondering what the group think is here, if I should definitely plan to change my oil once on this trip? Or, can I go the full distance without doing damage to my bike?

Thoughts?
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Old 08-07-2012, 07:37 PM   #4947
nippybit
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Joined: May 2010
Location: Henderson, Nevada
Oddometer: 92
Trials Tires vs Knobbies

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigbugberg View Post
I have the MY 43 on my 400XCW. I Love it! It has a higher sidewall so you can run low tires pressures (10psi) with less risk of pinch flats. Traction is great especially on rocks, sandstone and hardpack. One bad trait is that since it doesn't have any side tread, it will follow ruts and not climb out. The wear is awesome on my 400. The higher hp of the 690 may be a different story all together. Once my crappy stock MT21 finish chunking and throwing knows, I will put the MT43 on the 690.
Bigbugberg,

Thanks for your feedback. Seems the other inmates here are preoccupied with a myriad of other issues. Fortunately, I got a number of replies to this subject on M2W, which support the pros and cons you mentioned. Climbing out of ruts is important in the riding I do. I routinely explore old abandoned gold mines, silver mines, and marble quarries. The roads leading to them are often 100+ year old dual-track, not maintained, and heavily rutted with uphill sections resembling creekbeds. It is helpful to be able to climb out of a rut if you see a partial washout, nasty rocks ahead, etc. I think I will stay put with knobbies, however I may move to a different Pirelli.

Cheers,

Tom
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Old 08-07-2012, 09:24 PM   #4948
Gros Buck
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Joined: Jun 2006
Location: Quebec City, Canada
Oddometer: 847
Quote:
Originally Posted by Uller View Post
...
Maybe you would like to see the last photos of my seat pan here ...

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=809271

I cannot beleive how crappy that seat pan is. It just does not stand stappling.

That brings me to this conclusion : DO NOT HAVE YOUR SEAT REFOAMED. Seat concept or any other one. You will only aggravate a very bad product.

Paul Jr 8
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Old 08-07-2012, 10:13 PM   #4949
Maxacceleration
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Location: Wa
Oddometer: 1,924
Radiator Questions

I have split my radiator over the weekend. I can't tell where its bent/tweaked, or if it is bent/tweaked.
Now I know the radiator is curved from side to side.
Does one side of the radiator sit higher than the other (not symmetrical)?
Hard to straighten a non symmetrical radiator.

So I either fix a bent radiator or purchase a new replacement (not cheap I would guess).
Opinions?



Also, has anyone installed the Acerbis Rally Pro hand guards? (universal)
No clearance for the clutch lever and poor fitment on the tapered fat bar section, to me causing a stress riser.
Universal means it fits nothing...


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Quote:
Originally Posted by DireWolf
Sounds dangerous.
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Old 08-08-2012, 04:52 AM   #4950
asheville thumper
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Location: Asheville, NC
Oddometer: 122
I'm using the Acerbis Rally Pro with the universal fit clamps with no problems. Your picture shows the included sleeve/spacer being used. Have you tried installing the clamp without the additional sleeve? I didn't use it with mine. I also have enough room for the levers on both sides. I don't think I even had to move them inward for additional room. Here's a few pics.





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