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Old 08-08-2012, 08:11 PM   #4936
Maxacceleration
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Thanks for all the replies gentlemen.
On my Acerbis Rally Pro handguards, I'll take the shims out... I started out that way. Slightly out of square fitting on the bars shims or not and I did flip my mounts for best fitment. Stock levers.

Mylers said to me they can align my radiator. ...Done 60,000 of them.
With the price of a oem 690 radiator at over $500, that is the route I will go.

Uller, I would say my RR saddle tanks don't crash that well. The bolts/studs holding them on and the aluminum sleeves are bent. The left side was just from stalling out fall over at walking speed. The right side hit pretty hard on my high side. So the hardware is soft. The tanks themselves are tough!
The side panels are roughed up.
I need to get radiator guards.

I have gassed up, backed in, slid out and lifted the front wheel all over the place. I haven't babied the bike other than a calm break-in.
The motor and chassis do well. The fuel injection and aftermarket are weak areas.
I don't take well to cheap (yet expensive) aftermarket crap.
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Old 08-08-2012, 08:32 PM   #4937
SoilSampleDave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxacceleration View Post
Thanks for all the replies gentlemen.
On my Acerbis Rally Pro handguards, I'll take the shims out... I started out that way. Slightly out of square fitting on the bars shims or not and I did flip my mounts for best fitment. Stock levers.


I don't take well to cheap (yet expensive) aftermarket crap.
When installing barkbusters in the past, you never had to adjust the bend of the barkbuster to fit squarely against the mount? Does every handlebar ever made have the same sweep to the rear? Does the taper of every brand of 1-1/8" bars begin at the same spot? Is every clutch lever the same length? Does everyone position their clutch lever assembly the same distance from the end of the bar? No one can make a truly universal plug-n-play handguard. Although, the ones that offer another axis of adjustment by having a movable "stalk" where the guard mounts on the interior mount come a lot closer.
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Old 08-08-2012, 09:02 PM   #4938
Maxacceleration
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Originally Posted by SoilSampleDave View Post
No one can make a truly universal plug-n-play...
Exactly. I have been involved with a couple of custom bikes over the years.
Universal means it fits nothing. Adapt, tweak, bend...
Personally I would like to see aftermarket making products to fit specific bikes.
Costs more yes, but not a 'one size fits all'.
I am not blasting the KTM aftermarket alone. Much aftermarket for various bikes, cars, 4x4's etc... /rant.
I'll get on with my parts selection.
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Old 08-09-2012, 06:19 AM   #4939
phx690
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I'm a new 2012 690 owner, only have about a hundred miles on it. I read through a ton of threads on stalling, just looking for an opinion. Only thing the bike has on it is an apex slip-on. This bike stalls at almost every light, as I'm taking a left I will give it a little gas and it stalls. Then it can take up to ten tries to get it going with a few good pops coming from the exhaust. They didn't add any new maps or anything, the dealership said that would make it stall more. Need some advice because I'm going on a 2000 mile ride Tuesday.
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Old 08-09-2012, 06:34 AM   #4940
asheville thumper
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Originally Posted by phx690 View Post
I'm a new 2012 690 owner, only have about a hundred miles on it. I read through a ton of threads on stalling, just looking for an opinion. Only thing the bike has on it is an apex slip-on. This bike stalls at almost every light, as I'm taking a left I will give it a little gas and it stalls. Then it can take up to ten tries to get it going with a few good pops coming from the exhaust. They didn't add any new maps or anything, the dealership said that would make it stall more. Need some advice because I'm going on a 2000 mile ride Tuesday.
Many stalling issues have been documented when adding a free flowing exhaust like the FMF Apex. They consensus was that it doesn't create enough back pressure. Did it come with a removable baffle? If so, I would put that back in. If not, I would try remapping with the Akro map (TuneECU) or reinstall the stock exhaust for your trip and purchase a FMF Q4, Wings, or Akro when you return...and have it mapped with the Akro map.

I can't believe your dealership wouldn't want to remap after adding an unrestricted exhaust like the Apex. Open up the exhaust you're going to need more fuel.
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Old 08-09-2012, 06:37 AM   #4941
SKINNY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phx690 View Post
I'm a new 2012 690 owner, only have about a hundred miles on it. I read through a ton of threads on stalling, just looking for an opinion. Only thing the bike has on it is an apex slip-on. This bike stalls at almost every light, as I'm taking a left I will give it a little gas and it stalls. Then it can take up to ten tries to get it going with a few good pops coming from the exhaust. They didn't add any new maps or anything, the dealership said that would make it stall more. Need some advice because I'm going on a 2000 mile ride Tuesday.
I have a 2012 with an FMF and it doesn't stall....
it backfires like a pack mule farting sometimes...
but it did that with the stock muffler...

It seems that the 690 has been wildly inconsistent since the first model...
every new year model has had some reports of stalling
The 2012's have warm start issues...
my 2008 has never had even a minor hiccup in 11,000 miles

Tell you dealer to call KTM...when I complained about the backfires on my 2012, they told my dealer to install the Akro map...
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Old 08-09-2012, 06:40 AM   #4942
phx690
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The dealership just said the new map would make it stall more. I would imagine it came with a baffle, I assume it's this 3" long slightly tapered metal piece with a quarter inch lip around the top.
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Old 08-09-2012, 06:44 AM   #4943
Garp
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Originally Posted by phx690 View Post
The dealership just said the new map would make it stall more. I would imagine it came with a baffle, I assume it's this 3" long slightly tapered metal piece with a quarter inch lip around the top.
Yep, It installs between the Muffler and the connector pipe. Supposedly it has the most effect with the narrow end pointing towards the front of the bike, but I noticed almost zero effect, it's still obnoxiously load and stalls. I went back to stock, quieter but it still stalls.
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Old 08-09-2012, 06:55 AM   #4944
BK.RD.RNR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phx690 View Post
I'm a new 2012 690 owner, only have about a hundred miles on it. I read through a ton of threads on stalling, just looking for an opinion. Only thing the bike has on it is an apex slip-on. This bike stalls at almost every light, as I'm taking a left I will give it a little gas and it stalls. Then it can take up to ten tries to get it going with a few good pops coming from the exhaust. They didn't add any new maps or anything, the dealership said that would make it stall more. Need some advice because I'm going on a 2000 mile ride Tuesday.

Get an FMF Q4, and do the 15 minute reset, no remap required, and waaaaaay less obnoxious than the Apex.
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Old 08-09-2012, 06:58 AM   #4945
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Originally Posted by phx690 View Post
The dealership just said the new map would make it stall more. I would imagine it came with a baffle, I assume it's this 3" long slightly tapered metal piece with a quarter inch lip around the top.

I have a 2012 also with about 2600 miles so far. My exhaust is stock. I switched my map to #1 (soft) early on and it started stalling occasionally. It would happen at a stop light if I bliped the throttle plus a couple times crawling through a jammed freeway.

An inmate suggested changing the map setting sometimes causes the stalling. The fix for it is to turn on the key, open the throttle slowly to the stop, and close it slowly. Then turn off the key. Presto! Hasn't stalled in the last 2k miles.

The other fix is the 15 minute idle. I think what this does is reset the ECU to it's default settings, thereby unlearning the rider's power habits.

I thought I read there is a way to bump up the idle. If there is it might be a quick fix to get you through your trip. My old 950 stalled a lot and I just bumped the idle from 1400 to 1600.

If that doesn't work, why not put the stock muffler back on and do the throttle twist thingie...

Good luck
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Old 08-09-2012, 06:59 AM   #4946
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What is the 15 minute reset?
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Old 08-09-2012, 07:14 AM   #4947
phx690
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Any suggestions on extra parts I should be taking with me. Only thing I'm taking other than the basics is an extra fuel pump and filter.
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Old 08-09-2012, 07:37 AM   #4948
Barman
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Originally Posted by phx690 View Post
What is the 15 minute reset?
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...0&postcount=22
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Old 08-09-2012, 07:50 AM   #4949
BK.RD.RNR
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Originally Posted by phx690 View Post
What is the 15 minute reset?
Do the TPS reset like Pantah suggested. The 15min reset consists of starting the engine from dead cold (sitting overnight), just let it sit and idle for 15mins straight with zero inputs (throttle etc.).

My understanding is that it resets the sensors, gives them adequate time to adjust to new weather/ air density conditions.

Also, don't know if this is part of your issue, but on my 08, you are not supposed to have any throttle input until the temp gauge reaches 4 bars. I found that the few times I ignored this, she seemed to stall very frequently. The last time I pushed my luck with that suggestion, it stalled as I was pulling into traffic.

Quote:
Originally Posted by phx690 View Post
Any suggestions on extra parts I should be taking with me. Only thing I'm taking other than the basics is an extra fuel pump and filter.
If the tail light/ directional configuration is the same as the 08s, I'd take 3 or 4 extra left side rear directionals.
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Old 08-09-2012, 08:20 AM   #4950
Biped
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Here's a new one...

'08 Model, has been running great for 11k miles. While rding along the FI light comes on solid and the engine tone gets louder, lots of popping on decel. Cycle key/kill on/off and back to running great again. Happens itermittantly. No other FI warning lights. Will connect to TuneECU tonight to check for codes. Any suggestions....
I'm thinking could be SAS signal related, did the SAS'ectomy 3 years ago, resistor may have corrosion causing ECU to blunder.
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