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Old 08-20-2012, 05:58 AM   #5101
Pantah
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Letter J View Post
Since a stabilizer mount is next on my list (stabilizer has been waiting patiently on the workbench for a few months now) I have really been interested in the BRP/Scott's setup that you have. The only thing holding me back is that I have my fork legs slid up ~1" above the top triple clamp and from the 1 and only picture that I can find of the BRP/Scott's mounted it looks like it is not possible to have the fork legs slid up at all... does the stabilizer mount sit directly above the fork cap (preventing me from sliding the legs up), or will I be able to slide my fork legs up?
I have that unit and mount on my 2012. There is enough room to slide the forks up because the new mounting system has the bars quite a bit higher than stock to make room for the damper. Probably another 1.5 inches higher than stock.

For me the damper is used to stop oscillation at high speeds. It works very well for that. It is easy to get the damping too high for single track or slow riding, though. There are three adjustments. The manual tells you where to set them and it's trial and error after that. So far I only adjust the master damping knob. I am very happy I bought the damper kit. I should have had one on my old 950 as well.

Seems most knobby front tires are unstable at speeds above 80mph or in freeway aero buffeting. I think it's because the tires are round, rather than triangular like street tires are. But just guessing.
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Old 08-20-2012, 09:04 AM   #5102
Bill the Bong
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Steering off-set

I recently experimented with changing the steering off-set from 22 to 18mm. I tried to see what impact it had on stability on my 2011 R. I already have a Scotts damper fitted but I still get a gentle waving of the bars at 105 kph plus on dirt. Different tyres or pressures did not significantly improve matters.

So further research got this:

If you increase the offset for both yokes then the trail decreases
If you increase the offset for only the top yoke/ triple tree then the trail will increase
If you increase the offset for the bottom yoke/ triple tree independantly then the trail will decrease

So the question: does the adjustable stem impact only the bottom yoke?

Thanks
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Old 08-20-2012, 09:48 AM   #5103
LukasM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tattewell View Post
Hey guys,

I just returned from a week long bike trip through south east Europe on my 690, which worked very well until the last day.

With about 270k left in my journey (5400 km) the bike started to get really loud on the intake it seemed. At first I thought my earplug wasn't seated properly, so I pulled over to re-seat it and I noticed that the bike just didn't sound that good, I went to move forward and there was no power, and the bike barely revved. At this point I shut'r down and called for the ride of shame thinking an intake valve came loose or something, to which I plan to open it up this weekend and do an adjustment.

Am I out to lunch in expecting that its just an adjustment gone bad?

Are there any special KTM feeler gauges that I need to order?

The rockers are a known weak spot in the 690 engine, maybe that's what's failing here?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill the Bong View Post
I recently experimented with changing the steering off-set from 22 to 18mm. I tried to see what impact it had on stability on my 2011 R. I already have a Scotts damper fitted but I still get a gentle waving of the bars at 105 kph plus on dirt. Different tyres or pressures did not significantly improve matters.

So further research got this:

If you increase the offset for both yokes then the trail decreases
If you increase the offset for only the top yoke/ triple tree then the trail will increase
If you increase the offset for the bottom yoke/ triple tree independantly then the trail will decrease

So the question: does the adjustable stem impact only the bottom yoke?

Thanks

AFAIK you can adjust the offset between 22 and 24mm, not 22-18. Isn't that what your clamps say on top?

Since the fork tubes always have to be aligned straight in the bore, the adjustment has to be done for the top and bottom triple clamp. In the case of the KTM clamps this is done through an eccentric area on the steering stem right where the top clamp goes. If you flip the stem 180 in the lower triple, the top clamp will automatically move with it + or - 2mm.
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Old 08-20-2012, 10:11 AM   #5104
blakrj
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Trouble starting after 3 week break

Just got back from vacation without the bike. Decided I'd go for a run. Tried to fire bike up, but no dice for about 20 mins or so. Eventually it fired up, but died. A few tries later, started up when i gave the throttle a very small twist and then ran ok. Left it overnight and it started up just fine the next morning. Stumped as to reason why. Feeling neglected, perhaps? Bad fuel? Might understand better if it had a carb, but FI? All I can think of is battery voltage had dropped; but I would expect that it would have still failed to start after numerous attempts I.e. battery would have gotten worse. Voltage is currently sitting at 11.98 and 14.20 when idling. After 3 minutes battery was at 12.48
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Old 08-20-2012, 10:13 AM   #5105
CanadianX
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Leaking Oil??

I dropped my bike off to have the throttle position sensor and seat replaced under warranty. I had ridden the bike for a couple of hours the day before I trailered it into the bike shop. I get a call today and the dealer tells me that they installed the TPS and had the bike running outside for it to cycle through the 15min idle relearn. While it was runnning it started to leak oil. WTF? The were not clear on where the oil was coming from but wanted to know if the bike had been serviced previously or when I last rode it. More to follow - is it right to always default to the feeling that the dealer is trying to scam you??
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Old 08-20-2012, 11:19 AM   #5106
Bill the Bong
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LukasM View Post
AFAIK you can adjust the offset between 22 and 24mm, not 22-18. Isn't that what your clamps say on top?
Yes, sorry, I went to 22 on the 690. Did my SX-F at the same time, hence the confusion.

Thanks for the feedback Lucas, I appreciate it. I'm beginning to 2nd guess myself on the handling issues.
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Old 08-20-2012, 02:02 PM   #5107
thorinoakenshield
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smoothmove View Post
Any idea why the canister would spew black "crap"? Got a 2012 with 800 miles, just did the oil change, everything is running great. Some of this stuff gets on the frame but most on my boots and pant leg. Regardless of whether or not I should remove the canister, should it be doing this? Thanks fellas.
It could be the charcoal inside the canister???
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Old 08-20-2012, 02:11 PM   #5108
Frontwheel21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pantah View Post
For me the damper is used to stop oscillation at high speeds. It works very well for that.
Hi Pantah and all others having experience with the Scotts steering damper

I got mine today from RallyRaid (see avatar). I did not have much time before darkness but I installed it and could quickly test it on the autobahn. I played a bit only with the base valve (complete movement counterclockwise and then in steps of 1/2 clockwise) but I could not remove the headshake. Actually, my impression was that the shaking is worse now. This could be either due to the raised handlebars by offering more canvas area. Or it could maybe be the result of a positive feedback effect between the damper unit and the handlebar. This is really just a guess because without damper I could myself control this unwanted feedback by the amount of adherence to the grips. So my feeling is that even if I hold the grips very loose at high speeds (> 90 mph) the damper enhances the shaking when not adjusted correctly.

If you have experience with this high end damper, how could I get the most out of it to remove the headshake?
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Old 08-20-2012, 05:49 PM   #5109
Pantah
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Originally Posted by Frontwheel21 View Post
To be clearer, my wobble was on freeways in turbulence at about 75-80mph. The other day I ran it up to 100mph and a wobble surfaced. I didn't try and increase the damping, though.
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Old 08-20-2012, 06:04 PM   #5110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pantah View Post
To be clearer, my wobble was on freeways in turbulence at about 75-80mph. The other day I ran it up to 100mph and a wobble surfaced. I didn't try and increase the damping, though.
I would not expect the damper itself to be a cure for the wobbles. If anything it is acting to resist it as you would with your arms to hold it steady in a straight ahead position. I can only speak from my experience but here it is:
Went from zero wobbles to slight wobble above 75mph. Only difference on the bike is tires show more wear. As I accelerated to about 82 the force and frequency of wobbling increased but not to the point of major concern. However, at this point, I relaxed my grip, almost barely touching the bars and the wobble diminished to about the same or perhaps less than what I experienced at the 75 mph. My conclusion is it is a function of the innate design of the bike where various factors such as weight, suspension, tires, aerodynamics, etc. just add up to this effect. My XR650R would wobble some and it had the same damper. The condition more pronounced with tire wear in that case also.
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Old 08-20-2012, 06:05 PM   #5111
bobzilla
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hey front wheel
dont think the scotts or any other dampener is going to get rid of all the headshake you experience at high speeds on knobbies on the asphalt. that is not what it is made for really. it will greatly reduce the effects if you turn it all the way up. but then you will have a hard time turning and find you are behind in all the turns. it is really made to stop the deflection in the rocks at high speeds and lets you loosen the death grip on the bars.

I bet if you play with the suspension settings and springs, get your sag set properly and run the right tires on the street you will reduce the head shake more than the dampener will

i have a scotts on my berg and a emig on the 690 and like them both for the bike they are on but when switched not so much. very different dampeners

i notice at really high speeds on soft sand with many tracks in it my 690 will shake a bit but its not tank slapper see Jesus headshake.
sending my legs to Javier made the most difference to this bike than most of the other bikes i have had over the years.

if you really want to experience headshake try a 90-94 cr 500 in sandy whoops you will never complaine about headshake again:

of coarse ymmv
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Old 08-20-2012, 08:02 PM   #5112
smoothmove
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Originally Posted by thorinoakenshield View Post
It could be the charcoal inside the canister???
Definitely is the charcoal, the question is, is this normal? Can't imagine that it is. Anyone else experiencing this?
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Old 08-20-2012, 09:15 PM   #5113
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So, since I couldn't find a decent rear rack, I had to make one. What do you think?



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Old 08-20-2012, 10:36 PM   #5114
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[QUOTE=Mac;19407147]So, since I couldn't find a decent rear rack, I had to make one. What do you think? [QUOTE]

Mad Max Award for "kick ass" creativity.
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Old 08-21-2012, 01:51 AM   #5115
blakrj
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[QUOTE=ramjet;19407465][QUOTE=Mac;19407147]So, since I couldn't find a decent rear rack, I had to make one. What do you think?
Quote:

Mad Max Award for "kick ass" creativity.
Necessity is the mother of invention. Got some neat features, but I'd hate to meet the upright steel in a wreck
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