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Old 09-01-2012, 01:39 AM   #5341
Mudguts
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Originally Posted by numbutt View Post
Now we seem to all want new '' maps '' without creases in them and fuel pumps that can process dirt but all these issues look small ,,,,,,,,,,,,.........The boy racer in me ( no longer a boy ) thought that with the excuse of Xmas coming up i would just lift the page and glance at the BMW 1000 sports bike . YIKEs !! Just google up '' BMW S1000RR recall '' and you will realize we are not so badly off....at least we can sort out and fix our glitches,,,,,not so with this machine ... aparantly BMW didnt properly torque down the conrod caps on 1500 bikes so engines are hand- grenading. But it gets worse these and those on dealers floors are to be ''fixed '' by the dealers ...engine out split crankcase etc.... now given my and others worries about dealers real ability to peform complex tasks....say no more, say no more, just glad i am not one of the bike owners....and i think it reflects very very badly on BMW's quality control or lack there of that this was not picked up until the customers has major problems .
Same with the aprilla rsv4 but it was an engine swap ,
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Old 09-01-2012, 01:47 AM   #5342
rickypanecatyl
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Originally Posted by crankshaft View Post
I guess it's argue with Paul night I've ridden my 690 in the nastiest single track and it never boiled over..ever and it was geared for the 100+. What are you doing to your bike that requires a second fan?
I don't know that I've ever had mine boil over, but it spends a lot of it's time running at really high temps that I doubt is good for the engine.

The following is more legal info than true mechanical info... most here know I went thru 3 engines on my 2008 E. In trouble shooting and brainstorming why with KTM NA after the first one I told them that it often ran just one or 2 bars shy of overheating. They dismissed that the first time and told me I could have confidence in riding my bike that 1 under was UNDER and I wasn't doing a thing to hurt my engine. I believe they recorded that conversation.
After the 2nd one and later at a legal hearing they tried to fault me by saying that I often ran the bike "close to" overheating and that obviously would have serious effects.
I took risks at the time in those "legal conversations" in that my goal wasn't to defend myself or actions but that accurate info would get back to the engineers and they could improve the product.

On a completely different note to both Paul and Beany (I confess I'm not near as knowledgeable as either of you mechanically) wouldn't having a higher volume radiator do a better job than a 2nd fan (or at least as good and save electrical energy)? I remember with my older cars that overheated as a kid there often was the option to go from a dual core to a three core radiator in such cars as the old camaros and Chevy Novas...
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Old 09-01-2012, 01:52 AM   #5343
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And now a really stupid radiator fan question...

Has anyone come up with a more powerful fan that fits fairly easy that's quick and easy to remove?

I've been doing lots of jungle hammoc camping off my bike and even at 4:00 am if it's sea level its around 80-85F with 90% humidity and I'd love to have a fan blowing on me without bringing an extra. (I would bring my .8 lbs turner battery that easily starts the bike though). Fans are also great here for disrupting the landing patterns of mosquitoes!
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Old 09-01-2012, 05:44 AM   #5344
BK.RD.RNR
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Originally Posted by Night Falcon View Post
Need some advise on electrical problem...went out for a ride today did the first 1/2 hr no worries. then stopped the bike...went to restart but starter button dead? All other electrics were fine, speedo cycles perfectly. Crash started in third gear no problem, ran fine all day but still wont start?

Had a quick look for loose connections but cant find anything, could this be the infamous side stand cut out switch? How do you test for that? Can this be removed and bypassed?

any thoughts welcomed.
If it is your side stand switch issue, the magnet on the side stand can be easily loosened and adjusted.

Mine had the wires coming out of the stator cover shorting out that would cause intermitent electrical issues. Might be worth checking?
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Old 09-01-2012, 06:33 AM   #5345
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Anti gravity battery on the way! 1.7 lbs Trying to decide what to construct my electronics tray out of, alum is pretty easy but maybe HDPE is a better choice? CF would be cool but I have zero experience with it.
You should just use Unobtainium... And start a build thread...
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Old 09-01-2012, 07:01 AM   #5346
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You should just use Unobtainium... And start a build thread...
How about roadkill? Easily found on most any highway, really strong and the fur would make a great insulation layer from engine heat.
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Old 09-01-2012, 07:07 AM   #5347
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Originally Posted by rickypanecatyl View Post
I don't know that I've ever had mine boil over, but it spends a lot of it's time running at really high temps that I doubt is good for the engine.
Another benefit of using the Micro squirt is the ability to program the temperature that the fan comes on and shuts off. In my experience, it's best to get ahead of the cooling rather than try cooling it when its that much closer to boiling. I have a fan switch on my Berg, so I can turn the fan on when I hit single track and keep things cool.

Maybe I should start a thread on it
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Old 09-01-2012, 08:09 AM   #5348
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Originally Posted by rickypanecatyl View Post
I don't know that I've ever had mine boil over, but it spends a lot of it's time running at really high temps that I doubt is good for the engine ...
I never put my finger in the rad to check if it's boiling down there, but a pretty good indication it's getting close to, is a column of vapor, and the need to re-fill every 3 to 4 rides. It happens here, and not only to me. It happens also to KTM 525, 530 and 500 that rides with us. Some of them swaped to propylene glycol - better but not perfect -, few swaped to Evans Coolant - Problem mostly fixed -, And very few of them installed HT Racing oil cooler. Even fewer have gone with a combination of Evans Coolant and HT Racing oil cooler. No more problem.

I should have taken picture last week ...

Something that's little known is what is happening when coolant reaches the boiling point. Pockets of vapors accumulates left and right. The temperature of gas is not limited like liquids. Water will remain at 100 celcius, up until it's evaporated. But vapor will increase in temp as long as you heat it. So when your coolant reach the boiling point, the temp in your motor surges because of vapor pockets. That vapor is pretty good at rusting your motor at a very accelerated pace too. Two solutions: You get rid of the heat. Or you get rid of vapor. Propylene glycol is more efficient and transporting heat. Rougly 20% better. Still have the boiling point issue. Which is around 10 degrees higher then Prestone. It helps getting rid of temperature. Evans coolant approach is waterless coolant. It allows you to run your motor at much higher temperature without the adverse effect of water evaporating. Essentialy, you keep the heat, but get rid of vapor. Drawback is its not compatible with water. In case of trouble, you have to flush it and swap with water temporarily.

I'll give it at try next year.

Paul Jr 8
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Gros Buck screwed with this post 09-01-2012 at 05:01 PM
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Old 09-01-2012, 08:17 AM   #5349
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If anyone is interested.....

http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...5#post19496275
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Old 09-01-2012, 08:58 AM   #5350
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Originally Posted by Gros Buck View Post
Water will remain at 100 celcius, up until it's evaporated.
This is only true at sea level atmospheric pressure.

At higher or lower pressures, the boiling point of liquids changes. In a closed, and then pressurized by steam, system - the boiling point can be much higher, up to the point allowed by a blowoff valve or some other weakness in the system.
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Old 09-01-2012, 03:44 PM   #5351
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Originally Posted by rickypanecatyl View Post
I don't know that I've ever had mine boil over, but it spends a lot of it's time running at really high temps that I doubt is good for the engine.

The following is more legal info than true mechanical info... most here know I went thru 3 engines on my 2008 E. In trouble shooting and brainstorming why with KTM NA after the first one I told them that it often ran just one or 2 bars shy of overheating.
Exactly how to you know you were close to overheating? Because the temp guage was at 2 bars from the top? That merely reflects the normal operating temp. The thermostat kicks the fan on at 221* which is at 2 bars from the top. Overheating = boiling over. If you never boiled over then it's very doubtful you were ever close to overheating the bike. Even at 1 bar it's very doubtful you were close to overheating as the boiling point of anti freeze is something like 275*

I've run my rad at less then half full in 95* heat and never overheated or "come close" either. it never went passed the NORMAL operating temp i.e. 2 bars from the top.
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Old 09-01-2012, 04:19 PM   #5352
Mudguts
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Originally Posted by crankshaft View Post
How about roadkill? Easily found on most any highway, really strong and the fur would make a great insulation layer from engine heat.
You know the first composites we're made from animal sinue by the Mongols over 3000 years ago so I spouse you could stuff a hole in your radiator with a bit of RK
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Old 09-01-2012, 04:23 PM   #5353
Mudguts
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Originally Posted by Mac View Post
This is only true at sea level atmospheric pressure.

At higher or lower pressures, the boiling point of liquids changes. In a closed, and then pressurized by steam, system - the boiling point can be much higher, up to the point allowed by a blowoff valve or some other weakness in the system.
But the radiator is pressurized and wouldn't it keep a constaint pressure no matter what the elevation ? Being a closed system ( most of the time )
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Old 09-01-2012, 04:35 PM   #5354
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You know the first composites we're made from animal sinue by the Mongols over 3000 years ago so I spouse you could stuff a hole in your radiator with a bit of RK
Group buy on Caveman rally skid plates?
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Old 09-01-2012, 07:45 PM   #5355
Night Falcon
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Originally Posted by BK.RD.RNR View Post
If it is your side stand switch issue, the magnet on the side stand can be easily loosened and adjusted.

Mine had the wires coming out of the stator cover shorting out that would cause intermitent electrical issues. Might be worth checking?
Cheers I will check it out
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