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Old 09-07-2012, 04:40 AM   #5446
Beer'o'clock Baz
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Joined: Feb 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mudguts View Post
are they still using the .52 fork springs in the 11/12 bike there too hard for you drop down to.48 or .49 you can do this two ways buy a pair of springs or get your hand on one .46 or 48 .46 + .52 =.49 Or .48+.52 = .50
So if you have a friend with same bike you can go half each
Thanks mate will reaearch and see what i come up with - gives me something to work on
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Old 09-07-2012, 05:00 AM   #5447
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Dunlop 908rr front

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Originally Posted by Velociraptor View Post
Similar experience for me although I usually run 22 psi. Never ever felt like the bike was gonna spit me off at speed.
I changed the standard 2012 Continental Twinduro TKC 80 front for a Dunlop 908rr result lots of headshake. I have a Kuba link and the forks dropped with TK80 flat out no shake.
The Dunlop shakes at 63mph So i raised the forks and ran 26psi + 2 clicks of compression it now shakes at 75mph.
Would anyone recomend a tyre that will work on pavment but is better that the Dunlop 908. I just wanted more grip on the dirt.
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Old 09-07-2012, 06:18 AM   #5448
690Emaf10
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Tank bolts spinning

I'm trying to remove my rear fender and can't get the one bolt out because the nut is just spinning in the plastic. What have others done when this is happening?
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Old 09-07-2012, 07:26 AM   #5449
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Originally Posted by 690Emaf10 View Post
I'm trying to remove my rear fender and can't get the one bolt out because the nut is just spinning in the plastic. What have others done when this is happening?
Not that it will help you now, but pre-emptively, I put a bunch of anti-sieze in the threads on the nuts.
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Old 09-07-2012, 07:33 AM   #5450
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Not that it will help you now, but pre-emptively, I put a bunch of anti-sieze in the threads on the nuts.

I plan to do that when I put everything back together.....
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Old 09-07-2012, 07:33 AM   #5451
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Originally Posted by 690Emaf10 View Post
I'm trying to remove my rear fender and can't get the one bolt out because the nut is just spinning in the plastic. What have others done when this is happening?
If you are talking about the bolt I think your talking about. Put a wrench on the bolt on the other side and keep it from spinning. The nut on the inside is threaded all the way through to hold the bolts on both sides.

I was trying to get that bolt out to lift the tank to adjust the spring and ran into the same problem. Did the spring another way. So never ended up taking it out. But the local KTM dealer had to figure it out as they did not know the solution at first either.

Link to CycleHutFicheFinder http://cyclehuttktm.com/FicheFinderNew/FicheFinder.aspx
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OhBoy screwed with this post 09-07-2012 at 07:38 AM Reason: Fiching
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Old 09-07-2012, 07:41 AM   #5452
Mudguts
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Originally Posted by blakrj View Post
What MudGuts said. I'm about the same weight and have changed my rear spring to a 94Nm spring (stiffer than stock) and it has certainly improved things. Also, if you want to drop some cash, a set of SXS closed chamber forks will improve things. The stock fork springs are too hard and I'd go for a pair of the .48 (4.8Nm)
That what I'm using 9.4 shock spring SX, TC forks 50. Fork springs ( got all that rally crap hanging off the front )
Ran at 163.8kph for a couple minutes no head shake but vibe or two with unblanced wheels
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Old 09-07-2012, 07:41 AM   #5453
690Emaf10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OhBoy View Post
If you are talking about the bolt I think your talking about. Put a wrench on the bolt on the other side and keep it from spinning. The nut on the inside is threaded all the way through to hold the bolts on both sides.

I was trying to get that bolt out to lift the tank to adjust the spring and ran into the same problem. Did the spring another way. So never ended up taking it out. But the local KTM dealer had to figure it out as they did not know the solution at first either.
I don't think there is a nut visible on the other side. This is on the side of the plastic rear fender. There are 4 of them. Two under the seat and two on either side of the fender. From the diagram, it is #11 on the left side.


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Old 09-07-2012, 07:49 AM   #5454
Mudguts
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Soak with WD over night when try to loosen put sideways pressure ( if possible ) to try to get the jam nut to grip on the plastic
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Old 09-07-2012, 08:06 AM   #5455
690Emaf10
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Originally Posted by Mudguts View Post
Soak with WD over night when try to loosen put sideways pressure ( if possible ) to try to get the jam nut to grip on the plastic
Thanks, I sprayed some WD40 on it before I left for work. I'll see what i can do with it when I get home.
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Old 09-07-2012, 08:15 AM   #5456
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Try side pressure with an impact driver. Anti sieze all your bolts for this reason.
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Old 09-07-2012, 05:33 PM   #5457
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while were on the topic. I am trying to do the throttle stop adjustment for the Vortex install and was wondering how you get the threaded aluminum cover off the top of the adjustment screw.
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Old 09-07-2012, 06:00 PM   #5458
690Emaf10
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I was able to work around my bolt without taking it out. It was just a bit of a PITA to get the exhaust hanger bolts off. All this to change the fuel pump. It really isn't a bad job except for the gas that runs out when you pull the pump.

Now my problem is the bike won't fire..... Fuel pump primes but it doesn't fire. The other thing I notices was that all of my instrament panel goes off each time the bike cranks. I'll have to pull the pump again and make sure there are no kinks in the lines and everything looks good.
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Old 09-07-2012, 06:14 PM   #5459
Mudguts
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I just undo the the exhuast pipe clamp leave the muffler on .

not starting maybe an air pocket ???
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Old 09-07-2012, 06:16 PM   #5460
690Emaf10
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Originally Posted by Mudguts View Post
I just undo the the exhuast pipe clamp leave the muffler on .

not starting maybe an air pocket ???
That is possible but how would I try to diagnose that one? Pull the fuel line up stream from everything and see if it is spitting fuel?
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