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Old 10-14-2012, 01:30 PM   #5956
DirtJack
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: San Antonio, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nippybit View Post
Dave and I just spoke and he confirmed what I thought which is that the armature is turning at one speed. Power goes to the pump through the brushes and then to the commutator which causes the armature to rotate thereby driving the pump. Given this, it is not like the armature has to struggle to deal with various loads, it simply turns at a consistent speed. We are studying the pressure regulator which we believe has a mechanical mechanism and is connected to the ECU so that the ECU can see if it is regulating pressure, however the ECU does not provide power to it. More to come on this.

While my new pump has seemingly fixed the problem it may occur again. As you know, a number of posters here have had multiple pumps, which is frightening as you don't know if you can trust your ride off-road, it is damn expensive, and it shouldn't be happening. I had a 2005 BMW GS (FI with a submersible pump and filter) and I put about 28,000 miles on it without even the hint of a problem. I am hopeful that we find something other than the pump as the cause of the problem.

Cheers,
Sorry for the delayed response as I was riding in the Lincoln National forest (NM) last week. I had one of the early threads about the 690 fuel pump issues. My my fuel pump problem seems to have been solved by installing a CA Cycleworks pump. My fuel pump stoppages occurred at all temperatures and altitudes and were very intermittent, sometimes running perfectly for more than 500 miles. It never left me stranded and would always eventually start running again. The first time it happened, I nearly ran down the battery trying to restart. I later learned that it would not start until the fuel pump prime sequence occurs (which you can hear when you turn the key on). Just wait till you hear the prime, then it would start. The pressure regulator is a passive pressure relief valve which is not connected to the ECU. It returns excess fuel to the plastic pump housing for cooling purposes. There is (from the 690 wiring diagrams) one connection of fuel pump power to the ECU to switch/prime the fuel pump. I do not believe there is any other relationship between the ECU and fuel pump other than turning it off/on/prime. The TuneECU folks tell us the ECU must be reset before the 15 minute idle and throttle calibration are meaningful. There is a TuneECU switch for this as well as an automatic reset when loading a new map. Disconnecting the battery may also do a reset. The ECU (from the 690 wiring diagrams) have connections to the following devices:

Lambda sensor
Front wheel speed sensor
Evap valve
SAS valve
Injector
Ignition coil
Combo instrument
Throttle position sensor
Intake air temp sensor
rollover sensor
side stand sensor
Accelerator position sensor
Ambient air pressure sensor
Engine coolant temp sensor
fuel level indicator
crank position sensor
clutch switch
Manifold absolute pressure sensor
map select switch

I have not yet disassembled my OEM fuel pump but I'm guessing it will look ok like yours did. It is possible that the ECU is turning the pump off because of some software glitch (I know something about computer science, being a retired CS prof) but, if so, it doesn't seem to happen anymore to the bikes which are running the CA Cycleworks pump. So the mystery continues, but I'm happy my bike runs like gangbusters. I actually trust it again (which is easier for me to do because mine never left me -- just slowed me down)
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DirtJack screwed with this post 10-15-2012 at 04:53 PM
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Old 10-14-2012, 01:41 PM   #5957
BK.RD.RNR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thorinoakenshield View Post
I'm changing my stock tires out.
Should I be able to remove the spacer in the rear sprocket?
When I spin the spacer, it feel kind of grimey. I want to take it out and re-grease it, of course.
I can't remove the dang thing. I dont want to pry it out because the sorounding metal "nilos ring " is very soft.
On other bikes I have I can, so I was wondering....but in the 690 owners manual, it doesnt mention removing and inspecting that particular spacer.
Maybe it was overtorqued in the factory? Should I go to my crappy dealer? Doubtful there is any real problem.....besides being anal retentive...just wondering.

Spacer should be able to be removed, but mine, on the old bike, was stuck last time I tried too. I have that same indent from the screwdriver in my soft ring too now.
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Old 10-14-2012, 01:57 PM   #5958
thorinoakenshield
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BK.RD.RNR View Post
Spacer should be able to be removed, but mine, on the old bike, was stuck last time I tried too. I have that same indent from the screwdriver in my soft ring too now.
nice job, eagle eyes! hahaha!
i was pissed when i did that. it didn't take much, did it? i was like "wtf!!??"
you live and learn,and there's no serious damage.
it just took me by surprise and i've never seen a nilos ring before on any other bike i've had.
it must be a ktm thing.
i had to google what it was.
good info
and here

The same problem is with blackSP's bike, and that's an 2012.
So you were once able to remove the spacer?
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Old 10-14-2012, 06:52 PM   #5959
Sutherngintelmen
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Location: ATL
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The carb rebuild I had planned for the afternoon was dragging a deer out of the woods this morning so I ended up with options. Since the bike started right up last night, thought I'd see what would happen today.

I've got an hour long town loop that does what it can. No dirt but would at least let me run it a bit. Like a champ, it was. I thought certain Santa shimmied down the exhaust and gave me a firmware upgrade last night while I was sleeping it off.

Fifteen minute idle reset, again. Ride was cooler today, temps were similar (high seventies) but overcast and less stop go. Stalled for first time at end of ride, fan was running as I waited at a couple of lights. Let it sit back in the shed - 5 mins for 'train time' Did start but rough, wouldn't hold idle, needed gas.

So - temps seem to matter - out of the blue, maybe.

Given y'all's posts, my attack order is: Injector clean. Battery - maybe low volts? - oem @ 4 years. CA fuel pump. ECU.

Taxi!



Day after

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Sutherngintelmen screwed with this post 10-14-2012 at 07:54 PM
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Old 10-14-2012, 07:41 PM   #5960
Gordy
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I hate to bring this up...but.

Which lightweight battery is working out the best now and where to buy them?
I am going crazy reading about Shorai and Shorai problems.

I need one, pronto.
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Old 10-14-2012, 07:54 PM   #5961
Sutherngintelmen
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Location: ATL
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I believe antigravity is the rage nowadaze.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gordy View Post
I hate to bring this up...but.

Which lightweight battery is working out the best now and where to buy them?
I am going crazy reading about Shorai and Shorai problems.

I need one, pronto.
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There is a pleasure in the pathed woods, There is a rapture in the smoking pipe, There is chaos, where none intrudes, in the deep dell, with its thrills roar; I love not nature less, but bikes the more. Byron riding.

All pics < 6/30/12 deleted by Apple Now with SmugMug supporting ADV
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Old 10-14-2012, 07:57 PM   #5962
BK.RD.RNR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thorinoakenshield View Post
nice job, eagle eyes! hahaha!
i was pissed when i did that. it didn't take much, did it? i was like "wtf!!??"
you live and learn,and there's no serious damage.
it just took me by surprise and i've never seen a nilos ring before on any other bike i've had.
it must be a ktm thing.
i had to google what it was.
good info
and here

The same problem is with blackSP's bike, and that's an 2012.
So you were once able to remove the spacer?
Yeah, I was pissed too when I did it. That thing bent like it was made out of putty. I used VERY little pressure.

It used to wiggle out without much trouble at all. I suspect mine has a groove worn in the spacer that is catching on the dust seal.

I'm betting if we check a service manual, we are supposed to lube it everytime we disassemble the rear wheel...
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Old 10-14-2012, 11:23 PM   #5963
Night Falcon
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Location: New Zealand
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sutherngintelmen View Post
Given y'all's posts, my attack order is: Injector clean. Battery - maybe low volts? - oem @ 4 years. CA fuel pump. ECU.
I think you've got an electrical problem. Either a short somewhere or bad connection. Have you checked out the plug lead, mine was acting up like yours a while back so I took the plug connector off, cut 10mm off the coil lead and put it back together, ran fine after that...might be worth a crack
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Old 10-14-2012, 11:25 PM   #5964
Night Falcon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gordy View Post
I hate to bring this up...but.

Which lightweight battery is working out the best now and where to buy them?
I am going crazy reading about Shorai and Shorai problems.

I need one, pronto.
don't know what everyone else is using but I repaced my battery with a motobat http://motobatt.com/ works well and well priced.
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Old 10-15-2012, 12:48 AM   #5965
Bill the Bong
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Location: Kalahari South Africa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LukasM View Post
If you are not going to do ride in deep ruts or between big rocks the Fastway Adventure pegs are fantastic for giving stable and comfortable footing all the time, even better than the KTM Rally Replica pegs.

For enduro type riding both are a bit too wide IMO.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BK.RD.RNR View Post
I like my Pivot Pegz. you can configure them to lower 10mm, and move rearward 5mm. They cost about the same as the KTM Hardparts pegs, that give the same amount of relocation. I have not put hands on the hardparts pegs, but I think the PPegz mounting system is better. IMO.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldbear View Post
If you need even more legroom Motobau makes "Bear traps" which are 3 cm lower than the originals:

http://www.motobau.de/shop/product_i...asten-690.html
Thanks for all the help. I'm setting the bike up for rally use and need to open up the cock-pit a bit after I fitted a Scotts damper. That required fitting the bar in the rear position to centre it over the steering stem. Now the bars are too close to me when standing. Also had 3 knee operations, so a slightly lower peg set-up will be better than an adjustable riser solution.
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Old 10-15-2012, 09:11 AM   #5966
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Finally got my hands on a decent solution for extra petrol

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Old 10-15-2012, 11:02 AM   #5967
thorinoakenshield
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BK.RD.RNR View Post
Yeah, I was pissed too when I did it. That thing bent like it was made out of putty. I used VERY little pressure.

It used to wiggle out without much trouble at all. I suspect mine has a groove worn in the spacer that is catching on the dust seal.

I'm betting if we check a service manual, we are supposed to lube it everytime we disassemble the rear wheel...
Yeah, you ought to lube it and get the grime out...

I'm at a lost as to how I'd be able to apply equal pulling force on all sides of the spacer, without mutilating the rubbing bearing or nilos ring (only $7,btw).
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Old 10-15-2012, 12:20 PM   #5968
The Letter J
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I used a small blunt punch from the backside of the spacer and just lightly tapped it at an angle (in the groove between the spacer and the bearing), alternating sides. The spacer slowly walked out without gouging/scratching/prying/damaging anything.
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Old 10-15-2012, 02:18 PM   #5969
motoged
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Location: Kamloops, BC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Letter J View Post
I used a small blunt punch from the backside of the spacer and just lightly tapped it at an angle (in the groove between the spacer and the bearing), alternating sides. The spacer slowly walked out without gouging/scratching/prying/damaging anything.
What he said....
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Old 10-15-2012, 03:32 PM   #5970
BK.RD.RNR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thorinoakenshield View Post
Yeah, you ought to lube it and get the grime out...
Keep in mind.. IIRC, the rubber dust seal underneath has a space between it and the bearings. If you are going to clean behind the spacer, you will probably have to remove/ replace the dust seal to do so..
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