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Old 10-26-2012, 09:16 AM   #6136
nippybit
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Joined: May 2010
Location: Henderson, Nevada
Oddometer: 92
Fuel Pump Issues--Check Private Messages!!

[QUOTE=Reshad;19879463]Only just got around reading the last few weeks of Advrider subscriptions and was most enthused to see a the string of posts on the OEM fuel pump issue and thought Id share my experience. Sorry for the bulky essay style, but this is the best way for me to share

Reshad, check your PM's (private messages). I know you are new to the site so look in the upper right corner of the screen and you will see an unread message or two. One of them is mine. Look forward to hearing from you.

Cheers,
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2010 KTM 690 R (sold 12/11/12)
Previous bikes (way too many to list here and what's the point)
Been riding mostly off-road since 1960--began at age 14.
Watch this space as I am about to say something really prophetic!
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Old 10-26-2012, 09:34 AM   #6137
wsmc831
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghostman View Post
I thought the same thing but I can only find replacements with the "decal" already on it.
Odd, none of the plastic I've purchased came with the 125$ graphics on them...
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Old 10-26-2012, 10:15 AM   #6138
FriedDuck
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Joined: Jun 2004
Location: Atlanta, GA
Oddometer: 402
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mini Trail View Post
I finally got my new rockers and the intake is TIGHT. I expected to have to adjust the valves but I don't exactly know where to start. Is there a way to estimate the shims particularly when they are tight? They aren't cheap.
I saved these a long time ago. They're Harley-Davidson part #s for the 10mm v-rod shims that also fit our engines. They're good for two reasons: they come in half-sizes, and they're said to be cheaper. Providing 'em just in case they help. Next time I have an adjustment (coming up) I'm going to buy a bunch in bulk to save a trip to the dealer. (My last @#$(*$%$#@ KTM dealer wouldn't even sell shims.)

PS: Verify info before you buy--I haven't bought 'em yet!

Size Part #
2 18666-01K
2.025 18624-01K
2.05 18667-01K
2.075 18625-01K
2.1 18668-01K
2.125 18626-01K
2.15 18669-01K
2.175 18627-01K
2.2 18670-01K
2.225 18628-01K
2.25 18671-01K
2.275 18629-01K
2.3 18672-01K
2.325 18630-01K
2.35 18673-01K
2.375 18631-01K
2.4 18674-01K
2.425 18632-01K
2.45 18675-01K
2.475 18638-01K
2.5 18676-01K
2.525 18639-01K
2.55 18677-01K
2.575 18655-01K
2.6 18678-01K
2.625 18656-01K
2.65 18679-01K
2.675 18657-01K
2.7 18680-01K
2.725 18658-01K
2.75 18681-01K
2.775 18659-01K
2.8 18682-01K
2.825 18692-01K
2.85 18683-01K
2.875 18693-01K
2.9 18684-01K
2.925 18694-01K
2.95 18685-01K
2.975 18695-01K
3 18686-01K

FriedDuck screwed with this post 10-26-2012 at 10:27 AM
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Old 10-26-2012, 11:13 AM   #6139
BK.RD.RNR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghostman View Post
I would love to buy new plastic but it comes with the stock graphics already in place.
I know that my 08 graphics almost came off with the pressure washer.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Maurizio View Post
'08-'11 plastics fit on the '12 690 enduro. This will allow you to make your own color combination and install any graphic you want.
Have also a look at the '12 smc-r shrouds color scheme, imho nicer than the enduro one.
My 08 plastic did not quite line up on my 2012. there seems to be some very slight difference in placement of the mounting points, or holes in the panels. I did manage to use them anyway, but the (rear) side plastics are very slightly bowed over the tank, and for the front side panels, I had to manipulate the rubber mounting points on the radiator a little to get them to line up. The difference I would guess is between 1 and 3mm all the way around. I did not have any trouble with the mounting points on top of the tank, self tapping screws under rear fender, the front fender, or the headlight mask...
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Old 10-26-2012, 11:49 AM   #6140
Maurizio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wsmc831 View Post
Odd, none of the plastic I've purchased came with the 125$ graphics on them...
Yours is an old bike...
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Old 10-26-2012, 12:32 PM   #6141
wiswoodsguy
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Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Northwoods of WI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghostman View Post
I would love to buy new plastic but it comes with the stock graphics already in place.
Aftermarket should have some good choices without any graphics
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Old 10-26-2012, 12:33 PM   #6142
ghostman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wsmc831 View Post
Odd, none of the plastic I've purchased came with the 125$ graphics on them...
The online fiche says that the decal is included on the lower radiator shrouds only and the price reflects that. Have you purchased the lower shroud without the decal. Maybe I am looking in the wrong place.
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Old 10-26-2012, 03:26 PM   #6143
ramjet
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Location: Super F'd Up N. California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wiswoodsguy View Post
ALL of those chemicals you just described will MELT the plastic - DO NOT USE THEM

And Id love to see what happens when he grabs some 80g sandpaper and shreds off the stickers. For delicate matters like sticker removal, you need to have finesse and patience. I would start with some 600 or 800 wet sandpaper and lightly remove the initial surface - this light sanding might also remove the embossed decal as well. What you really dont want to happen is create a scratch in the plastic underneath the decal. Then you have to use aforementioned Plastic Renew - which never replicates the original look of the plastic, but more of a clear coated plastic that scratches far easier than the plastic itself.

If you do happen to get the stickers off - remove the residual glue off with cleaners that are specifically designed to do so. GooGone is a great choice in this situation, 3M also makes a nice remover as well

I would avoid this scenario all together and stop being a cheapskate - BUY some new plastic and put the stock stuff in storage.
I've done alot of plastic refinishing and agree with the warnings above but if you want to go this route, work in a small spot and above all wear protective gear. Gloves and organic vapor respirator working with massive ventilation. If working indoors with lacquer thinner, mek, methylene chloride use only enclosed gear with dedicated air supply. These are seriously health danger chemicals and not to be underestimated. I have this gear. If you don't, please reconsider cost vs reward. The plastic melters will alter the surface and then evaporate. Your fender will not turn into a puddle at your feet. Wipe with thin film repeat. I've found chemical process leaves less work than sanding. Plastic renew with 4 coats. I swear by that stuff. It is to restore the high gloss not a protective coat. Don't be afraid to use whatever grit you want, you will just have to do more work with progressively finer grits. Start with 200. Go lower if needed. I finish with 1000 then plastic renew. Also I use wet/dry paper wet.
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Old 10-26-2012, 05:18 PM   #6144
MightyTaco
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Old 10-26-2012, 06:42 PM   #6145
Mini Trail
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoninMoto View Post
What you will need:
-A set of calipers for measuring the shim you remove.
-a shim kit About the same price as 1 hour of shop time at your local KTM shop?
-strong magnet (easiest way to remove the shims, like you use when you drop a socket into a motor and have to fish it out)
-Feeler gauge.
Amazon had the shim kit for $54.00 & Free shipping from powersport superstore. Woot

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ls_o00_s00_i00
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Old 10-26-2012, 08:39 PM   #6146
offworlder
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Location: Vancouver, Canada
Oddometer: 255
690 headlight burning out ?

Replaced the headlight bulb in my 2010 690, thinking the old bulb had simply burnt out. The new bulb fired up for a few seconds then quickly died. Checked the voltage at the (lighting wiring) terminals, seems solid, non-intemittent; approx 12+ volts with the engine off, and 14+ volts with the engine running, no shorts between the high and low beams, etc...

Any ideas from the collective ?

Thanks.
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Old 10-27-2012, 12:00 AM   #6147
ghostridergary
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Home made mapping switch

Quote:
Originally Posted by Harty View Post
Anyone got a good link for a supplier of Mapping Switch that I can mount on my bars for my 2011 690E. Am UK based as well.

Cheers
Hi Harty

I made this one for about 10 (bit of simple soldering) for my 2008e - cable tied near handlebars - still have to cycle ignition on and off though

Credit to this bloke..... http://www.ktmforum.co.uk/technical-...-selector.html

Cheers
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Old 10-27-2012, 12:30 AM   #6148
Roadracer_Al
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Have a look at the regulator, loose grounds, intermittent shorts - look specifically for rubbed insulation. The latter two can cause voltage spikes.

a

Quote:
Originally Posted by offworlder View Post
Replaced the headlight bulb in my 2010 690, thinking the old bulb had simply burnt out. The new bulb fired up for a few seconds then quickly died. Checked the voltage at the (lighting wiring) terminals, seems solid, non-intemittent; approx 12+ volts with the engine off, and 14+ volts with the engine running, no shorts between the high and low beams, etc...

Any ideas from the collective ?

Thanks.
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Old 10-27-2012, 04:00 AM   #6149
crankshaft OP
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Location: Burlingtron,VT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MightyTaco View Post


Hey Taco, can you post this in the Supermega690 thread?
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Old 10-27-2012, 04:24 AM   #6150
LukasM
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I have heard that the ride-by-wire system is coming to the 690 Enduro models in 2013, can anybody confirm or deny that?

Here is some more info for those that have no idea what I'm talking about:

Quote:
Originally Posted by LukasM View Post
No it's not. The 690 models (except the 2012 Duke) until now have a mechanical throttle cable that can be overriden by the EPT computer through a solenoid that controls the throttle butterfly. It sits on the right of the butterfly shaft in this picture:





The 2012 Duke 690 uses a true fly-by-wire system, or ride-by-wire as KTM calls it, so there is no mechanical connection there any more.




This is what the throttle grip looks like, it has a spring inside to mimick the feel of a regular throttle pull:




This system does of course offer some benefits because the computer can decide when it's a good idea to give it some more gas - e.g. when starting the bike etc - but at the same time it complicates things further.

IMO - great on a 690 Duke that I ride around town, not so great on a 690 Enduro (R) that I'm taking out into the boonies.
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