New and improved KTM690 WUNDERFEST

[nippybit]

[QUOTE=Reshad;19879463]Only just got around reading the last few weeks of Advrider subscriptions and was most enthused to see a the string of posts on the OEM fuel pump issue and thought I’d share my experience. Sorry for the bulky essay style, but this is the best way for me to share…

Reshad, check your PM's (private messages). I know you are new to the site so look in the upper right corner of the screen and you will see an unread message or two. One of them is mine. Look forward to hearing from you.

Cheers,

[wsmc831]

Originally Posted by ghostman

I thought the same thing but I can only find replacements with the "decal" already on it.

Odd, none of the plastic I've purchased came with the 125$ graphics on them...

[FriedDuck]

Originally Posted by Mini Trail

I finally got my new rockers and the intake is TIGHT. I expected to have to adjust the valves but I don't exactly know where to start. Is there a way to estimate the shims particularly when they are tight? They aren't cheap.

I saved these a long time ago. They're Harley-Davidson part #s for the 10mm v-rod shims that also fit our engines. They're good for two reasons: they come in half-sizes, and they're said to be cheaper. Providing 'em just in case they help. Next time I have an adjustment (coming up) I'm going to buy a bunch in bulk to save a trip to the dealer. (My last @#$(*$%$#@ KTM dealer wouldn't even sell shims.)

PS: Verify info before you buy--I haven't bought 'em yet!

Size	Part #
2	18666-01K
2.025	18624-01K
2.05	18667-01K
2.075	18625-01K
2.1	18668-01K
2.125	18626-01K
2.15	18669-01K
2.175	18627-01K
2.2	18670-01K
2.225	18628-01K
2.25	18671-01K
2.275	18629-01K
2.3	18672-01K
2.325	18630-01K
2.35	18673-01K
2.375	18631-01K
2.4	18674-01K
2.425	18632-01K
2.45	18675-01K
2.475	18638-01K
2.5	18676-01K
2.525	18639-01K
2.55	18677-01K
2.575	18655-01K
2.6	18678-01K
2.625	18656-01K
2.65	18679-01K
2.675	18657-01K
2.7	18680-01K
2.725	18658-01K
2.75	18681-01K
2.775	18659-01K
2.8	18682-01K
2.825	18692-01K
2.85	18683-01K
2.875	18693-01K
2.9	18684-01K
2.925	18694-01K
2.95	18685-01K
2.975	18695-01K
3	18686-01K

[BK.RD.RNR]

Originally Posted by ghostman

I would love to buy new plastic but it comes with the stock graphics already in place.

I know that my 08 graphics almost came off with the pressure washer.

Originally Posted by Maurizio

'08-'11 plastics fit on the '12 690 enduro. This will allow you to make your own color combination and install any graphic you want.
Have also a look at the '12 smc-r shrouds color scheme, imho nicer than the enduro one.

My 08 plastic did not quite line up on my 2012. there seems to be some very slight difference in placement of the mounting points, or holes in the panels. I did manage to use them anyway, but the (rear) side plastics are very slightly bowed over the tank, and for the front side panels, I had to manipulate the rubber mounting points on the radiator a little to get them to line up. The difference I would guess is between 1 and 3mm all the way around. I did not have any trouble with the mounting points on top of the tank, self tapping screws under rear fender, the front fender, or the headlight mask...

[Maurizio]

Originally Posted by wsmc831

Odd, none of the plastic I've purchased came with the 125$ graphics on them...

Yours is an old bike...

[wiswoodsguy]

Originally Posted by ghostman

I would love to buy new plastic but it comes with the stock graphics already in place.

Aftermarket should have some good choices without any graphics

[ghostman]

Originally Posted by wsmc831

Odd, none of the plastic I've purchased came with the 125$ graphics on them...

The online fiche says that the decal is included on the lower radiator shrouds only and the price reflects that. Have you purchased the lower shroud without the decal. Maybe I am looking in the wrong place.

[ramjet]

Originally Posted by wiswoodsguy

ALL of those chemicals you just described will MELT the plastic - DO NOT USE THEM

And Id love to see what happens when he grabs some 80g sandpaper and shreds off the stickers. For delicate matters like sticker removal, you need to have finesse and patience. I would start with some 600 or 800 wet sandpaper and lightly remove the initial surface - this light sanding might also remove the embossed decal as well. What you really dont want to happen is create a scratch in the plastic underneath the decal. Then you have to use aforementioned Plastic Renew - which never replicates the original look of the plastic, but more of a clear coated plastic that scratches far easier than the plastic itself.

If you do happen to get the stickers off - remove the residual glue off with cleaners that are specifically designed to do so. GooGone is a great choice in this situation, 3M also makes a nice remover as well

I would avoid this scenario all together and stop being a cheapskate - BUY some new plastic and put the stock stuff in storage.

I've done alot of plastic refinishing and agree with the warnings above but if you want to go this route, work in a small spot and above all wear protective gear. Gloves and organic vapor respirator working with massive ventilation. If working indoors with lacquer thinner, mek, methylene chloride use only enclosed gear with dedicated air supply. These are seriously health danger chemicals and not to be underestimated. I have this gear. If you don't, please reconsider cost vs reward. The plastic melters will alter the surface and then evaporate. Your fender will not turn into a puddle at your feet. Wipe with thin film repeat. I've found chemical process leaves less work than sanding. Plastic renew with 4 coats. I swear by that stuff. It is to restore the high gloss not a protective coat. Don't be afraid to use whatever grit you want, you will just have to do more work with progressively finer grits. Start with 200. Go lower if needed. I finish with 1000 then plastic renew. Also I use wet/dry paper wet.

[MightyTaco]

[Mini Trail]

Originally Posted by RoninMoto

What you will need:
-A set of calipers for measuring the shim you remove.
-a shim kit About the same price as 1 hour of shop time at your local KTM shop?
-strong magnet (easiest way to remove the shims, like you use when you drop a socket into a motor and have to fish it out)
-Feeler gauge.

Amazon had the shim kit for $54.00 & Free shipping from powersport superstore. Woot

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ls_o00_s00_i00

[offworlder]

Replaced the headlight bulb in my 2010 690, thinking the old bulb had simply burnt out. The new bulb fired up for a few seconds then quickly died. Checked the voltage at the (lighting wiring) terminals, seems solid, non-intemittent; approx 12+ volts with the engine off, and 14+ volts with the engine running, no shorts between the high and low beams, etc...

Any ideas from the collective ?

Thanks.

[ghostridergary]

Originally Posted by Harty

Anyone got a good link for a supplier of Mapping Switch that I can mount on my bars for my 2011 690E. Am UK based as well.

Cheers

Hi Harty

I made this one for about £10 (bit of simple soldering) for my 2008e - cable tied near handlebars - still have to cycle ignition on and off though

Credit to this bloke..... http://www.ktmforum.co.uk/technical-...-selector.html

Cheers

[Roadracer_Al]

Have a look at the regulator, loose grounds, intermittent shorts - look specifically for rubbed insulation. The latter two can cause voltage spikes.

a

Originally Posted by offworlder

Replaced the headlight bulb in my 2010 690, thinking the old bulb had simply burnt out. The new bulb fired up for a few seconds then quickly died. Checked the voltage at the (lighting wiring) terminals, seems solid, non-intemittent; approx 12+ volts with the engine off, and 14+ volts with the engine running, no shorts between the high and low beams, etc...

Any ideas from the collective ?

Thanks.

[crankshaft]

Originally Posted by MightyTaco

Hey Taco, can you post this in the Supermega690 thread?

[LukasM]

I have heard that the ride-by-wire system is coming to the 690 Enduro models in 2013, can anybody confirm or deny that?

Here is some more info for those that have no idea what I'm talking about:

Originally Posted by LukasM

No it's not. The 690 models (except the 2012 Duke) until now have a mechanical throttle cable that can be overriden by the EPT computer through a solenoid that controls the throttle butterfly. It sits on the right of the butterfly shaft in this picture:





The 2012 Duke 690 uses a true fly-by-wire system, or ride-by-wire as KTM calls it, so there is no mechanical connection there any more.




This is what the throttle grip looks like, it has a spring inside to mimick the feel of a regular throttle pull:




This system does of course offer some benefits because the computer can decide when it's a good idea to give it some more gas - e.g. when starting the bike etc - but at the same time it complicates things further.

IMO - great on a 690 Duke that I ride around town, not so great on a 690 Enduro (R) that I'm taking out into the boonies.